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stone02

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Everything posted by stone02

  1. stone02
    please take back the money. i do not use paypal. call me at the number in my tuesday forum response.
  2. stone02
    Hi, i was in the pits with my customer car which had electrical problems. this M&N car was hauled in on the hook and was placed in front of the ramp to the enclosed trailer. a ton of crushed and bent parts were removed by the owner and some helpers. it took about 20 minutes to get it into the trailer. the driver was not visually hurt but he was not comfortable with the incident and the attention. the car was locked in the trailer and not seem again at the track. from experience any race car could be repaired. this car had serious damage, as far as i could tell, into the drivers floor. i do think this car will run again but it is not likely for this season.this happened on sat later in the day. stone
  3. stone02
    where did you send the money without my information?
  4. stone02
    Hi, i have plenty of them. send me an address and $10 for shipping and a package i will get them out to you by friday. stone02@verizon.net 215fivetwozerosix718 philadelphia pa usa
  5. stone02
    do you need the cover or the entire assembly? let me know
  6. stone02
    just because the car does not start when the fuse is pulled is not an indication of a good pump. the pump must be able to sustain 29lbs of pressure. most likely the cold start valve is spraying enough fuel the motor to breath it in and get a few revolutions of run, up to 9 seconds when dead cold, before it dies out and then less each successive time this is tried as the temp sensor gets warmer. try to carefully pinch the return line at the top of the back of the inj. pump and see if it runs then. also, get a cheap fuel pressure gage and test the pressure between the fuel filter and the injection pump a new pump can be clogged or just be bad. also you can search the forum and lots of people have posted about cleaning the entire fuel system. keep us put to date on progress. stone
  7. stone02
    Hi, i have rebuilt many door latch (dl) assemblies. just recently i did a set for a customer. the springs do fall off if they are bad, but other than that situation i have never replaced the springs. just wash the entire mechanism clean of all prior lubrication and then oil them or spray them with silicone or tefelon. most of the problems with the dl are from the peanut butter lube or a bent part. good luck, let us know how it worked out for you. stone
  8. stone02
    you guys go way too far. next time ask the person who is asking the question if all the spark plug wires are on the plugs. instead of hanging down next to the exhaust header. he could have saved himself a 15 mile drive on three cylinders and not have had to learn how to disassemble and reassemble the top of a carburetor. as an old timer on this site said "90% of your carburetor problems are electrical. it was just a simple plug wire!!!!!!! stone
  9. stone02
    picture of the face please. i have several cluster parts. stone02
  10. stone02
    take specific pictures of the parking brake bar and shoes also show the end of the cable and its position behind the rear shoe. make sure that the cables are FULLY loosened down to one washer and one nut. show the full brake set-up and the inside edge of the drum. stone
  11. stone02
    Hi, take a box end wrench and put it on the highest nut in that picture. then use a pipe wrench on the drive shaft and force the box wrench to be pressing on the sub- frame. as you turn the drive the nut will loosen. in that picture put the box wrench toward the left and turn the driveshaft counter clockwise. stone
  12. stone02
    hi, i am in philadelphia and have several diffs available. you can open them and inspect them also. contact me thru the forum mail. stone
  13. stone02
    is it on when the dash lights are on but the head lights are on. if this is happening then you should look at the dash lights and make sure that there is no illumination passing from the dash lamp and into the small hole where the hi beam lamp is. also remove the bulb for the hi beam and see if it is bright from the dash lights. it is not likely that the hi low switch is cross contacting low and high inside. stone
  14. stone02
    jim is correct. i have several tii cars in the warehouse and many more customers on the road. that should be hanging from #3 cylinder runner at the head. yes on a carb car it is also present, on the top of #4 runner to head. stone
  15. stone02
    your car had an air pump on it long ago. that bushing is from the metal bracket that is most likely on the car still. under the battery tray. if it is not there then that bushing fell into the top of the frame rail and then finally fell onto the floor. alt bushings are indeed very thin walled. a loose alternator is a different problem. stone
  16. stone02
    hi, i have that part. $25 plus shipping from 19123. send me a message thru the board stone
  17. stone02
    HI, that connector in the picture is the body side wiring for the heater box and the lights on the lever controls. the green is heater and the gray/ blue is the dash lights. the male side from the heater box fits into that. if your car is late model and had AC then you need to find the wires individually and push them into the female connector. the wires are usually held up to the box by a clip, near the top of the box, closest to the dash. stone
  18. stone02
    Hi, not to boast or sound, whatever, but i have been stripping 2002's since 1983 and i do believe that what you have is ORIGINAL , strut insert assembly components. not a self contained insert like you buy today that fits inside the tube but the actual guts that the strut tube holds including the oil. i have not taken one of those apart in at lease 8-10 years. they are re-useable if you put in hydraulic fluid but the truth is that inserts are a better replacement.that is a museum piece at best. thanks for the photo, stone
  19. stone02
    i would like to see the pictures but they are not openable. maybe you can post actual pictures. stone
  20. stone02
    so look at the picture and guess the part. then look at it closely and tell me what else you see. this car had six of these on it until tonight.
  21. stone02
    thank you for the reference's. they are talking about me. 215 five two zero six 718 text or call. i work in the evenings give me a call and we can talk thru stuff. stone
  22. stone02
    Hi, now for a part that i have had to change several times just for this condition. when changing a clutch, the cheap/fast shop, will just put in new pressure plate and clutch disk. if you buy a full clutch kit you also get a throw-out bearing and finally a ***** pilot bearing. the T.O bearing is easy to do but the P.B. is hard to replace. when the PB gets old it begins to drag on the input shaft. this drag keeps gears inside the trans rolling for only a second or to after the pedal is fully depressed. heavier gear oil can put enough cohesion on the gears to stop them much faster than ATF. the plastic or rubber line might be a concern but since both fluid directions thru this hose are forced, i believe that it is not the main problem. the PB is buried in the back of the crankshaft and most shops overlook this part. search PB removal. stone
  23. stone02
    every time i get an open space more stuff fills it in. these boat anchors are getting to be a load on the van. 1691451, 2761018,2762339, and X space X which indicates factory rebuild. thanks for the help today, Grice!!!! stone
  24. stone02
    where are you located? i have a pile of glass!! i am in philadelphia pa. the glass is $25 and the install is $50 and hour, should take 30 minutes. i can shipp too. probably cost more to ship, then the glass cost. we all really need to know where. stone02
  25. stone02
    okay that is acceptable. send me your full mailing address and name. i will send you a US Postal money order. thank you stone
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