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stone02

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Everything posted by stone02

  1. hi, interested in the head, oil pump and book. please contact me at stone02@verizon.net thanks, stone
  2. yes the shaft on the early handles are deeper inside to accommodate the longer mechanism. most likely if you post in the wanted section, you can find a set of the older long spline type. stone
  3. Hi, the column guts are a tricky thing. once that little disc comes out, the one that you had in your hand, then the internals never work correctly again. I have had this problem too many times. the easiest way to fix this mess is to pull the column from the car and replace it. at this point you are four bolts from yanking the column. I have columns or others may have them too. if you want I can sell you one with the electrical switch attached. I also can walk you thru the whole process on the phone or FaceTime if you want. if the column shaft catches the lock bar while you are driving then there is no steering. this is why we gut the column for race cars as a safety precaution. the others have all stated reasonable ideas but changing out the column is the best choice. stone
  4. Hi, you are seeing two different era's of federal requirements. the picture with the wiring that attaches to the back of the column switches is for cars up to about 1971. those cars had a bearing that was forced into the column tube and stayed there, until the car got hit. then the column shaft would pop out of the tube and shove the shaft and steering wheel into your body during a crash. in 1971 or around then the the rules changed and there was a requirement that there be some form of restraint on the column shaft. later cars have collapse type shafts. this retainer #9 holds the bearing into the tube and also helps set the placement of the shaft into the upper part of the rag joint. the install should be done so that the rag joint is clamped first with some pressure against the shaft. then the column covers are installed and the fore and aft adjustment is made so that the horn ring is close enough to contact the steering wheel for it's full rotation and then the two bolts under the dash should be tightened. then the tube clamp at the firewall can be tightened. a small amount of compression on the spring is all that is necessary. the cover plate is very important. i have a few in the shop if you need one. stone
  5. how many would you like in the package when i send it to you? i have parted out so many cars and those rarely if ever get requested. stone
  6. Hi, i would like to give you all another option. since i recently repaired a 1976 80K mile car that to me appears to be all original, those wires appear to all be from the dealer installed AC system. usually the system is Behr, and these wires are the same as the ones i had to research and correctly reconnect in this car. wire #1 is the only wire that is not an original wire and so it may have been from the pump and rad fan to the fender relay. #2 is from the console switch for the fender relay. #3 is the connection from the body harness at the heater fan to the AC fan. #4 is also the console controls to the heater fan so that both fans cannot be used at the same time. #5 is the main power harness from the battery to the fender relay. the remainder of the pictures appear to show the wire group from the console to the fender relay and other connection ends behind the console. it took me several hours to fix this system because someone was there before. stone
  7. if they have not sold yet i would like a chance at them and i would like to know the price too. thanks, stone
  8. Hi,

      i am headed to Bel-Aire MD on saturday and could

    come get the glass if you are available. please call or text me

    at 215fivetwozerosix718

    thanks

    stone

  9. i responded to you in the want ad section about

    coming to get the glass. please contact me.

    thanks

    1. jcsteuber1

      jcsteuber1

      Sorry for the tardiness about my response.  Where are you coming from?

  10. i still have daily drivers and two customers that race. in both cases the glass is old and when they get broken or are too scratched to use at night then i put in a good used one for them and it is cheaper than a new glass at $240 for a new one. also, the last two that i bought from the dealer were incorrect. they were both the wrong curvature for the car. so i am looking for several good used and also have contacted Pilkington and PGW to see if they have any old stock. i am not hoarding glass but trying to have what my customers need on hand beside the 30+ parts cars that i already have. if you have a few sources i will gladly contact them about glass. stone
  11. hey i will take it if it is good. i could come get it any time after 5pm during the week and maybe sunday if you are good with that. thanks chris 215fivetwozerosix718 text
  12. fjord -tii, i am in DC often. i will contact you a few days ahead of my trip. thank you, stone
  13. rrost, are you headed east at any time. maybe part of the way on the turnpike? otherwise i will put it on the list and hope to get one or two more in that general direction. stone
  14. Hey, i am looking for a few good front windshields (10) to buy from people who may have saved a few during parting out cars. i will be putting them into storage until needed. if you are between Boston MA and Winston-Salem NC i will consider coming to get them. even better if a few people have glass and i can go in one direction and pick up a few at a time. please let me know. just to let you know, i expect to pay less than $100 per good glass because invariably some will break during pickup and storage. thank you, stone
  15. Hey, i am not sure if this is possible but a good trans shop might be able to use a front four speed case to replace the broken five speed case. if this is possible then the older style of clutch slave could be retained and less messaging of the tunnel might be also a good thing. you could call and ask Metric Mechanic, they usually give very solid advice. stone
  16. Al, is there another set available? the ebay sale is closed already. please let me know. also looking for 14" NK steel set if you have some. thanks stone
  17. Hey, at the track last year and saw a piece of food under the car. then i thought, no one is eating around here. look under the car and see the yellow piece on the ground. look up and see the motor mount disintegrating. once they drop a piece the remainder is junk. it is not okay to drive on this. it must be replaced. so while at the track we put back in the factory rubber part and the driver said the car was not as twitchy as before. checked the driver side and found it to be falling apart. change both back to rubber and forget about them for 100,000 miles. stone
  18. can you show the back side please. pistons arrived , thanks stone
  19. hi, i have seen this left turn stiffness one other time. the car when loaded left and steering pushing hard left, the idler arm was just loose and the car had a bent front subframe from a right side hit many years earlier. the castle nut for the idler arm was touching the frame rail and leaving slight witness mark. if it is only left turns then you want to see the loaded side. additionally check the steering box bolts to ensure they are snug. stone
  20. Hey, i quoted the 21-25 hours per tower. if you do both at the same time the hours are not double. also there will be other things like glass seals to replace and all the paint and preference work that you want is to be thought of. in general, i charge $50/ hour when i work on a car. not matter what the work is that is what i think my labor is worth. just a little guide. stone
  21. if these do not sell to others, i am willing to travel to pick-up. stone
  22. Hey, i am over in Northern Liberties. i have a tote full of distributors. take yours out and bring it over and we will just fix it. stone 215fivetwozerosix718
  23. Hi, i would pull the steering column back up and install the subframe first. get the bottom clamp on the box installed fully before you put the column in. the column has a good amount of play and it will all go back in. this is the only way to get the column, and covers, and horn-ring to steering wheel contact to be correct. stone
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