fjord-tii

I kept mine! It’s yours. I’m in 20878.

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BMW schematics always show electrical switches on the hot 12V wire, while I’ve seen recommendations to switch the ground wire. Electrically, there seems to be no difference, e.g., lights turn on. I would like to get opinions on when/whether to switch the ground wire or the hot wire. I guess this would also apply to low-current switches like relays’ terminal 85 vs. 86.

Robert, I just have the one fan, in pusher mode. Engine-driven fan is removed. Kind of miss the red fan, it’s at least quiet! The Spal fan I’m using is pretty loud.

Thanks, I was wondering about that. Seems like something a lot of people have faced if they’ve deleted the red fan.

I’m installing a Behr a/c in my ‘72 and having an issue that I’d appreciate some help with. I’ve got an electric coolant fan already, and want that to also work the a/c condenser that is in front of the radiator. The current relay (#9 relay) setup would mean two hot feeds into the one fan when both are actuated, but when only one is working won’t there be issues with power going the wrong way? I assume that is not a good thing. What is the work-around for this?

IMHO, weld in cross races if you plan to remove doors

IMHO, redline at least once per drive.

Search the forum, you can bypass the CSR with a push button switch. But it sounds like you have something else going on. Back to basics: recheck timing, dwell or points gap, valve clearance, plug wires in correct position on distributor (don’t ask me about that one, lol), etc.

When I had these, I always wondered how to set both shocks to the same rebound rate, unless you want full soft or full hard.

As above, catalyzed primer is the only way to block water, but is not long term. I used a metal etch (at Home Depot, it’s phosphoric acid, so wear gloves, eye protection), and that actually keeps surface rust off for a while. I then used a HF spray gun with a yellow DuPont primer (can’t remember the name), that’s like nails when cured. The main thing is to stay within the primers-top coats system, read the tech literature from the manufacturers. Summit Racing sells mid-range, house brand products online as does TCP Global. For respirators, I go with 3M and whatever cartridges work for organic solvents. FYI, I wouldn’t doubt Washington state has banned painting cars at home as the solvents, etc. are highly volatile organic compounds (VOCs); try to find a paint booth and/or pro do shoot the paint.