fjord-tii

Photo? Also, does it include the rubber seal to the door? thanks, John

So, does that mean the amount of play at center indicates wear that is, according to many previous posts, basically not repairable? I have +/- 2” off center with some steering effect before it gets real. What is the “as new” play off-center?

Catalyzed paint is the only way to get a durable finish, other than powder coating, rattle can paint comes off easily with solvents, etc. Check out Summit Racing to get single-stage acrylic urethane paint and epoxy primer, will need to spray (use a certified respirator!) but worth the effort.

What would be recommended for a ‘72 tii. The brackets below the hat shelf for the vapor canister were removed, so I vented directly from fuel tank to outside. Yes, lots of gas odor in garage.

Maybe in So Cal, not around here. It took me literally months to find nice, non-OEM, non-bottle cap, 14” wheels. And I cleaned, sanded, and painted these takeoffs, so, no offense, but clean bottle caps are actually worth something now that basket weaves and other OEM wheels are $1K+ per set.

Mostly in dashboard wiring: heater control-‘73 uses a two-lever control with fan switch integrated whereas ‘72 has single-lever heat control with fan switch near headlight switch. Not significant if you don’t mind modifying the harness.

I have two locally (Montgomery county), good condition, original, $50, or another one original with slight dent $25. PM or email me [email protected]

There is a difference between ‘72 and ‘73 harnesses.

I have a stock 284 cam from a 1973 202tii. I replaced it for my rebuild but there was very minimal, if any, wear. PM me. Let me know what tolerances you are looking for.

What we really need for street cars is a reliable measure of “harshness” or “street ability”, at least something other than “loosens fillings in my teeth” or “my wife won’t ride in the car”. Then we could reliably inform people what they need. I don’t have an answer, but I know there are people out there with the bits of data that could be put into a single public spreadsheet.

I equipped my Motive pressure bleeder with silicone tubing and plastic valved quick-connects (here: https://www.industrialspec.com/shop/quick-couplings-disconnects/thumb-latch-quick-couplings/plastic-thumb-latch-quick-couplings/40ac-series-acetal-quick-couplings.html) between the MC cap and the pressure bottle so I could disconnect the Motive without losing pressure. Makes refilling the MC reservoir easier. Swiveling port on the MC cap is a very useful upgrade, too.

OP: You can buy small quantities at https://jacobs-online.biz/nichrome_wire.htm. You want 10 Ohms per cm., 32# Nichrome 60. Replacement is easy, I have a write up on this forum.