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fjord-tii

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About fjord-tii

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  1. Agreed on at least getting engine running without considerable cost if you don’t want to restore yourself (it’s not that bad!). Check out barnfinds.com, takes off from where BAT was years ago before the auctions began.
  2. I rebuilt mine as a newbie, had the machine shop do the crank shaft, then read Dempsey’s “How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911” and had an “Oh Shit” moment. Worth reading his book even though Porsche’s are more built than M10s, just for setting up and cleaning, etc.
  3. Would not be hard or expensive to repair if you can identify the part numbers of the components that have gone bad. I could not I.D. the transistors. If the coil on the relay goes bad, I think it’s s.o.l. I was thinking of contacting one of those companies that restores ECUs of vintage cars?
  4. I use a hidden race car style power cut-off, mostly for working on the car but also useful if you take the handle with you when you park in public areas. Hagerty ran an article recently that addresses classic car theft: https://www.hagerty.com/assets/PDF/TheftPamphlet.pdf. Biggest threat is a flatbed hauling the car away, all of the above preventions are moot.
  5. From my reading on this forum, “Originality” May be #1. But I would prefer to not hassle with I, and have the system do it automatically and for the duration determined by coolant temperature and not guessing (although I could have a little cheat sheet showing time vs. temp!). The microprocessors would fit inside the relay can, would look “original”. Maybe I’m just nerving out.
  6. Not to restore an ageless posting, I’ve determined that the cold start relay on my ‘72 tii is outputting only 0.9V to the cold start valve (CSV) which requires 9V to open. Opened the relay box and noticed the one large transistor is cracked and half of insulator fell off when I touched it. Ouch! While I seek the best option (below), I wired a push button switch to activate the CSV for a few seconds as others have done. Now the options: 1. Buy new Bosch relay box, about $300 (and some reports it doesn’t work) 2. Buy an Arduino microprocessor and set up to regulate opening time (1 - 20sec.) vs. coolant temperature, about $35 plus learning to code 3. Buy time delay controller that will give a set CSV opening time, 1-30 sec., about $25. Easy to set up. Would fit into relay box! So, if anyone tried options 2 or 3, what were results?
  7. I used a kerosine heater over several winters and wondered why all my tools got a rusty surface. Yes, the fumes! Go electric, it’s safer in a lot of ways. And plug all of the holes and cracks in the ceiling, helps a lot.
  8. I have one I can send you (not sure why the installer didn’t use it, lol). PM me if you can’t find a better deal.
  9. I know 15s are favored by many here, but 14” has some great tires and “fit” the 2002 much better. Vredestein has some great touring all-seasons, Falken and Dunlop have high performance summers, etc. check out the r3vlimited e30 forum classifieds for 14” rims.
  10. I think one big consideration is splined vs. hexagonal. I had splined Momo in my Miata race car, it had some amount of slop. I understand, from hearsay, that the hexagonal drive would have less slop. Keep in mind that what goes on easily CAN unmount while driving, so I wouldn’t go cheap. On the Momo system with splines, if you didn’t line it up it when parking it was kind of a pain to get the wheel re-aligned on installation. I tried other systems and the pull tab/lever was kind of unintuitive. You might want to actually try out different systems before buying....my 2 cents.
  11. I bought some from there a few years ago, they were for single.-light motorcycles, not left/right automotive applications. Check the light pattern. I switched to true Hella H4 conversions with 80/55W bulbs (12# wiring from dedicated relay).
  12. Looking for used 2002 wiper mechanism, without motor. PM or email jdkinase@gmail.com. Thanks!
  13. Try https://tcpglobal.com/collections/aerosol-vinyl-classic-coat.
  14. I probably would do it differently a second time. I did basically the above but drilled a new hole low in the drivers side firewall just above the frame rail on the engine side, with a thick grommet. As the E30 cable does not bend well, it shows under the carpet. On the other hand, the cable follows the frame well nicely along the frame rail to the E30 +12V contact point. So, bottom line is, consider where the cable will go once in the engine compartment.


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