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fjord-tii

Kugelfischer
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maryland
  • Interests
    1972 2002tii #2760116 manufactured on Dec. 3, 1971 in Chamonix.

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  1. Hi Ana,

    I have a lot of hardware and stuff left over from my ‘72 restoration, need to downsize my collection—some plated, some ready to go to plating, misc. other parts like trim pieces, glass, door parts, etc. Don’t hesitate to PM me when you need something or you’re free to come over and take what you need, I’m in the Gaithersberg area (I’m the one who bought your alloy wheels).

    -John

    1. bimmer_b

      bimmer_b

      Hi, nice to hear from you again and thanks for the offer! The only things I can think of at the moment that I need are the trim pieces for the door and quarter panels. I thought I had them, but when I looked the other day I found that I don't have the ones I need. I may have to just look through whatever you may have to see if there is anything else. I have ADD trying to work on everything at once and can never remember what I need one week to the next :D

  2. BMW schematics always show electrical switches on the hot 12V wire, while I’ve seen recommendations to switch the ground wire. Electrically, there seems to be no difference, e.g., lights turn on. I would like to get opinions on when/whether to switch the ground wire or the hot wire. I guess this would also apply to low-current switches like relays’ terminal 85 vs. 86.
  3. I messed up the tunnel section of a salt-and-pepper carper I bought from you several years ago. Any chance you could send me a replacement if I send you a sample?

    1. esty

      esty

      maybe..i may be able to ID it from a picture before you spend money on mailing a piece

       

  4. Robert, I just have the one fan, in pusher mode. Engine-driven fan is removed. Kind of miss the red fan, it’s at least quiet! The Spal fan I’m using is pretty loud.
  5. Thanks, I was wondering about that. Seems like something a lot of people have faced if they’ve deleted the red fan.
  6. I’m installing a Behr a/c in my ‘72 and having an issue that I’d appreciate some help with. I’ve got an electric coolant fan already, and want that to also work the a/c condenser that is in front of the radiator. The current relay (#9 relay) setup would mean two hot feeds into the one fan when both are actuated, but when only one is working won’t there be issues with power going the wrong way? I assume that is not a good thing. What is the work-around for this?
  7. @Conserv or others, Steve, ET 21 5-1/2”x13 wheels from later 02 or E21 clear my larger front calipers (E12 IIRC) by about 10mm, any idea if these would fit. It’s for a spare tire that I want to fit in trunk. thanks, john
  8. IMHO, weld in cross races if you plan to remove doors
  9. IMHO, redline at least once per drive.
  10. Search the forum, you can bypass the CSR with a push button switch. But it sounds like you have something else going on. Back to basics: recheck timing, dwell or points gap, valve clearance, plug wires in correct position on distributor (don’t ask me about that one, lol), etc.
  11. When I had these, I always wondered how to set both shocks to the same rebound rate, unless you want full soft or full hard.
  12. As above, catalyzed primer is the only way to block water, but is not long term. I used a metal etch (at Home Depot, it’s phosphoric acid, so wear gloves, eye protection), and that actually keeps surface rust off for a while. I then used a HF spray gun with a yellow DuPont primer (can’t remember the name), that’s like nails when cured. The main thing is to stay within the primers-top coats system, read the tech literature from the manufacturers. Summit Racing sells mid-range, house brand products online as does TCP Global. For respirators, I go with 3M and whatever cartridges work for organic solvents. FYI, I wouldn’t doubt Washington state has banned painting cars at home as the solvents, etc. are highly volatile organic compounds (VOCs); try to find a paint booth and/or pro do shoot the paint.
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