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Found 40 results

  1. From the album: visionaut-iks

    © All right reserved - visionautiks.com - 2014

  2. It's in. And it's sounding great. I've put about 150 delicate miles on it.
  3. In going through my spare parts box I found a new in box blower motor resistor (BMW Part 64111380029 Blower Motor Resistor). Not something I need anymore so figured I'd offer it below market on here for someone who does. $70 + Shipping from 98102. Photos:
  4. Hello all, I am looking to replace my old '67 1600 motor and tranny. If anyone out there might have a decent 2002 motor and tranny I certainly would be interested. Thanks so much! Paul
  5. For the past year I've been spec'ing and collecting parts for the "ultimate street M10" build for my 1971 2002. I've kinda lost interest and decided to move forward with an M20 swap as it's more in line with my budget and needs. I am now selling everything I have for the M10 in hopes that someone else on here is interested in something similar. The M10 I planned to build is a S14 crank (84mm) stroker, utilizing longer rods (144mm) with 10:1 CR custom pistons, and a Dr. Schrick 304 cam. While the intent was to build a torquey mid-range motor, in theory this combination should net 180hp at the crank on pump gas and safely rev to 7k. Most of everything I purchased was sourced new from Ireland Engineering. The long block I intended to use was a lightly used factory re manufactured M10 with an E12 head purchased from a member on the FAQ. The head is complete and free of any cracks, but I was planning on doing a 3-angle valve job "while I was in there" along with new valve seals. The S14 crank I have is in good condition and has already been machined to fit the M10 timing cover. The snout of the crank still needs to be threaded and keyed. The block is currently bored at 89.22 with the old 8.3:1s still in place (will remove rotating ass. before sale) and the new Ross Racing pistons are sized for 89.50 so a light hone and a deck will be required. The bundle of parts with my purchase price is as follows: S14 84mm Crank - $1200 BMW Reman Longblock - $800 10:1 Ross Racing Pistons - $700 IE 144mm Rods w/ ARP HW - $636 IE Alpina-style Tri-Y Header - $560 NOS "Dr. Schrick" 304 Cam - $450 Weber 38/38 w/ Canon manifold - $350 ARP Head studs - $205 SS Strut Brace - $175 IE Engine hardware kit - $130 IE Adjustable Single Row Cam sprocket - $129 ARP Main studs - $128 Coated Rod bearings - $115 Silicone (black) Coolant Hoses w/ HW - $113 Oil pump sprocket and chain - $105 IE HD Valve springs - $90 Upper gasket - $73 Coated Main bearings - $70 Single Row Crank sprocket - $69 Timing chain - $56 Lower gasket set - $51 IE Windage tray - $48 Oil pan baffle - $45 Tension rail - $38 Oil pump shims - $21 Exhaust Heatshield - $18 Chain guide - $7 Total Cost $6,382 The only part I had yet to purchase was a MLS headgasket as I was waiting till assembly to determine what height would be necessary. Also, I planned on using a 1-2-3 distributor, but I didn't make a final decision on which version to purchase. I also have several extra gaskets, new sensors, and a few other small items I will include in the sale. I would like to sell everything together, but I'm not pressed on keeping the 38/38 or IE strut brace with everything as you might want to run a different fuel delivery setup or a different chassis stiffener. Everything is ready to ship. Almost all of the parts are still in the original packaging from when I received them and the block, head, pan, etc, are disassembled, cleaned, and oiled. I am asking $5800 for the lot, but I am open to offers. I can offer pics on request, but most items are new and self-explanatory so I didn't see the point. Thanks for reading, Chuck
  6. Hi, i picked up a 1967 2000 cs about a year ago and finally got around to working on it starting today. the body is good and the car has had other work. so, the motor is not original, rather it is a tii set up. i looked at the block number, which is 2581634 and it comes out as an early RHD (us) car. well that does not seem right. so i ask, is this a vin number for a NK tii car which was transplanted into this body, or did someone go to the trouble of converting the block properly to have the oil return in the correct drain boss. i have a little time to mess with the car while the brake system parts get rebuilt so if someone has a vin chart like the McCartney book for 2002's that may help thanks. stone
  7. Engine started knocking and repairing the headgasket will cost $1500 On a teenager's budget, I figured I'd just pay more for an engine swap now since it should only be about 2-4k more... I'd love some options on the cheapest engines I can throw into my car that are newer than the m10 I'll be taking out. I understand a 318 is a good option, but is there a more cost effective engine swap? I purchased the car for 4500 and have sunk another 3500 into it. I'm thinking I could sell it for around 5000 as is, but that would be taking a huge loss. Repairing the headgasket and selling it would also be taking a loss. I really don't want to sell the car, but I will if the cheapest engine swap runs around 5 grand. ANY ideas are welcome Thank you.
  8. Price:: 1000 Location: : San Fernando, CA I pulled this E12 engine from a 1973 2002tii. VIN: 2762818 - Kugelfisher pump and injectors - alternator - intake & exhaust manifold - working pistons & rockers - no cracks - visible surface rust I also have the original 4-speed transmission and gearbox. Willing to bring engine to your location inside Los Angeles.
  9. Location: : San Fernando, CA I have the following parts left for sale on my 1973 2002tii. Everything must go because I'm taking up too much space in my garage. E12 Engine (includes intake manifold and kugelfisher fuel system) Works good just a little surface rust Front struts and springs New and old exhaust pipes Drive shaft Front & rear bumpers Steering box 4-speed transmission and diff Front dash gauges All 3 front grills Front and rear tail lights Corner signal lights (euro and american) 4 5x13 early OEM Rims. Aluminum alloy, cast by F.P.S Please let me know if you would like any pictures of the following items. Please PM me with your requests. Cheers guys, Phil
  10. Price:: 20 Location: : Rocklin, CA 121 head that looks to be in good condition, no sunken valves. Missing one rocker shaft and associated rockers. See pics. $20 to first person who can pick it up in Rocklin, CA Also set of matching pistons from same engine, has some scuffing, but doesn't look terminal. Rods look good. $20 for the pistons to the first person who can pick it up in Rocklin, CA Give me a text if you want these and are ready to get them. Thanks! Eric (916) 849-4780
  11. I just received my heater blower motor and the fan blade is quite loose. The free play is between the plastic hub and the metal fan. Is this normal? It arrived well packaged and appears to be undamaged but want to be sure. Thanks.
  12. Starting the final big project on my '75 and thought this link and two articles would be welcome for others doing engine work / rebuild. These two PDFs are referenced in other posts but I found them very helpful and this link has an incredible bunch of high res photos of various 2002 projects, both engine and otherwise. They really help when reading the articles so you can see what parts and pieces are being referenced. The FAQ would not let me add the link because it is not a link to an image, so go to flickr.com and then to photos and then to tep_icp/albums/with/72157634053646253 Edit: Actually seems that if you just click the partial link above it gets you to the right place Enjoy - Randy ShadeTreeArticles1.pdf ShadeTreeArticles2.pdf
  13. Just bought this for $99 AUD including post. Taking a bet really. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400981387487 *CLEARANCE STOCK* BMW 318I 325I M50B20 STARTER MOTOR 12V 9TH M10 M44 M20B25 Is this going to work? I note that it is 'brand new' so I don't have massive hopes for the quality. Sent from my iPad
  14. Price:: 100 Location: : Maryland, D.C. Suburbs I have a very good condition, 2.0L M10 block for sale! This motor had approximately 118K miles when taken out of service to be rebuilt for my Megasquirt/turbo project. I acquired a built motor so this one's not needed. The case and bores are clean and ready to be reconditioned. This engine deserves a second chance! The crank and rods that accompanied this engine is also available for purchase. I would prefer local pickup. However, I am open to shipping arrangements 100% handled by the buyer. PM me your offers. Photo are forthcoming. Thanks for looking! Marc
  15. im ditching the plans to turbo my m10 and going to swap a m20 in, i need just about everything. also looking for a racing pedal set up, like hanging wilwood pedals to save room in the engine bay for itbs and other pretty things. thanks
  16. Im looking for an operable Windshield Wiper Motor.I live in the Seattle area.
  17. Price:: 600 Location: : Central Valley CA OBO... 1972 M10 motor with Weber 38 from teardown for swap. 69,7XX on the odometer. Clutch + pressure plate, starter, alternator still attached. Unable to get the camshaft specs but it appears stock. No exhaust manifold. Driven till about 3 months ago. Delivery / shipping not included. Central Valley / Greater Bay area location. PM or email with questions. roundl76@gmail.com
  18. Hi Guys, Feels like it's been a long time since I'm posted a thread in the general section... I been working away at fixing up the derelict body, I’m nearing a point where I can hand the body over to a paint shop for them to do the rest. Now for the reason I’m posting. In Summer 2014, I noticed the motor leaked in a few spots... fast forward to my refresh with the motor out I figured I might as well redo the seals (including head gasket). I had purchased the upper and lower seal kit (from Blunt) a while back, thinking things would go much quicker than they have. I’m going to start to dismantle the motor to change out the seals. I’ve never done anything like this before but I do have a friend whose worked on giant compressor motors. I have the Haynes book, which I plan on referring throughout but I was wondering if anyone on here could give me tips/pointers. Like... - make sure to do this - don’t do that - start by - etc I did some loose searching on the forum but will do some more when the time permits. Thanks!
  19. Started a youtube vlog / car videos just my restoration and m20 swap learning as I go more videos coming check them out share tyhem let me know what you think. Subscribe if you would like thanks everyone https://youtu.be/_TFObdgCwWU
  20. Price:: 500 Location: : Indianapolis, IN SOLD - Nov 10, 2015 I was recently put into contact with a gentleman who was sorting out his late father’s estate and had some BMW parts that he needed to sell. Always curious, I took my truck for a visit and mostly came away with some used Guibos and two lonely 2 Liter M10s. I didn’t particularly need backup engines (or Guibos), but I agreed to buy them with the hopes that I would be able to find them better homes, put them in the right place slash do the right thing, sort of thing. I degreased each unit and have documented what I found below. I strongly prefer direct pickup in Indianapolis, Indiana (Crossroads of America, they say) and by direct pickup--you and your truck/trailer and your own hoist is ideal. If you do not have a hoist, I could make arrangements to rent one on your behalf. I would be willing to crate and ship these at buyer’s expense, but I’d rather not! Direct Pickup Deal: $500 for Both Engines (Must Take Both) PM or Reply Here, or email = mobiletradition a t g m a i l Unit 1 (Purposefully Orange) Block VIN: +2577854+ (1971 – 2.0 Liter) Head: 121 TI (1968) 0231188002 Tii Mechanical Advance Distributor 228mm Flywheel Fuel and Water Pumps, Water Divider $250 w/ Tii Distributor Based on the exterior cleanliness of the head, the Heavy Chevy paint treatment of the block, I’d say this engine was pieced together as a DIY rebuilt unit. Don’t let the current exterior razzle dazzle you---this engine was very oily, it appears to have abundantly leaked from every area typically designed to retain oil. (Timing cover, oil pan, etc.) I noticed the same light blue sealant was used on these components, and it didn’t do its job very well. Valve cover leaks were average. Our elders say the “121/121TI (early 2002 heads) have been the most popular with the performance and racer crowd, because of its smaller combustion chamber volume.” Source = http://www.bimmers.com/02/ This engine is a good candidate for a breakdown and rebuild, or to use the head for another project. The engine spins freely by hand, the oil is cleanish. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unit 2 (Naturally Orange) Block VIN: +2590797+ (1973 – 2.0 Liter) Head: E12 1973 Exhaust Manifold (port plugged) Single Barrel Intake Manifold 228mm Flywheel Vacuum Advance Distributor Fuel and Water Pumps, very clean Water divider, Starter $350 This engine, to my eyes, looks remarkably original and non-messed with. Experts may weigh in on the sealant patterns, etc., but this thing was very clean, only requiring a light degreasing. There are still a few patches of black block paint here and there. This engine turns over by hand, the oil is cleanish and I would be inclined to toss on some new pumps and hoses and see how it runs “as-is.” If you’re engineless, or looking for something to drop in whilst you build up your dream motor, this might be a good solution for you. If you have a 73 and you want a 73 motor to be as close as your VIN as possible, here you go. I actually have the matching 4 speed that was with this engine, it was also remarkably clean which suggests to me that it was pulled earlier in its life and squirreled away (Trans is free with pickup.)
  21. Down to the last big task in my 8 year restoration of my 75, and my newly retired brother and I are going to rebuild the motor. He has been a mechanic, race car builder and Mopar guru his whole life and agreed to the "bonding experience" of working on that little metric toy motor. He says he has no problem rebuilding the bottom end, but he has not done much with OHC engines... all 70's muscle car push rod style. So he told me to find a good machine shop in Charlotte (where he lives) or plan B would be Raleigh (where I live). So any suggestions on good places in either town to prep and setup the head once we break it down... machining head I expect, new valve guides/seals, valve seats (maybe hardened, etc. I could go to Korman, but not sure they do small piece work like this. Other posts refer to Bob Breed, but not sure he does smaller jobs like this, either. I know Mike Pugh is in the area, but also not sure how much he gets involved on other cars besides his own. Thanks for any help....And also, I have read and re-read the shop manual, the McCartney book and the Jim Rowe/Blanton "Shade Tree" articles on head and bottom breakdown, assessment and rebuild (making brother read too!), but if anyone has the time to toss in the the "top 5" things to pay attention to in a .. make that top 10... engine rebuild, I will be greatly appreciative. Thanks - Randy
  22. I am just about to start the rebuild of my 1975 2002 (2366762) and finally paid attention to the block markings... or in one case, lack thereof. I have read many posts about the location of the VIN on the block and when I checked mine today, it is totally blank! Picture below... o Doubt it was something sinister and ground off... o Was it possibly a "replacement" block? But who buys a brand new block instead of re-using one from an old car? And then I went to the side of the block and got even a bigger surprise when I saw a date stamp of 29F77.... They weren't even making 2002's any more in 77, so is my block really from an early 320? And near the date code is "BMW EB" or maybe "BMW E8".. what does that mean? Other stamp is a round "clock" looking mark with what appears to be "123" "789" on the circumference. My biggest quandary now is... do I buy parts to restore a 320 motor or a 2002 motor. I know they probably are very close, but .... Thanks for the help -Randy
  23. I have a manifold that has a broken ear on the bottom side, mid-bolt. My question is, do any of you think that this will work okay if I add a washer to this ear to help hold the bolt in place? I would appreciate any advice regarding this issue. Thanks.
  24. every time i get an open space more stuff fills it in. these boat anchors are getting to be a load on the van. 1691451, 2761018,2762339, and X space X which indicates factory rebuild. thanks for the help today, Grice!!!! stone
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