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A History of BMW 02 Series Rear Panel Badging, Including Changes and Placement of Numbers, Letters, Script, Badges, Roundels, and Emblems for the Rear Panels of 1502, 1600-2, 1602, 1800, 1802, & 2002 BMW Sedans, & Touring Cars 1600, 2000, 2000tii, 1800, 1802, 2002, 2002tii, along with Baur Cabriolets and Other 02 Variants, 1966-77 Abstract The authors researched the design and placement of rear panel (tail panel) identification letters and numbers, script, roundels, and other emblems fitted to all factory-produced BMW 02 cars. We intend to document the chronology of placement, emblem details, and position of various rear panel badging equipped on 02 cars. The presence of original or properly restored rear panel badges can assist in identifying 02 models and car options. The authors also try to address the timing and reasoning behind the evolution of the BMW 02 rear panel badging. We did reach out to the BMW Group Archives for this article and welcome any other input or insights into our presentations and findings. Photographs were either taken from open source sites on the web, or permission to publish was given by various car owners. We also give some extensive treatment to badging of Alpina-tuned cars and badging unique to Baur-modified cars, as well as tail panel badging for rare 02 factory models and owner preference 02 cars such as tribute cars, clones, and restomods.. Overview Rear panel badging on various cars is often a primary source for recognition of the marque, year model information, and/or the options these cars possess. The roughly 10-12 years of production of the BMW 02 Series is no exception, with rear panel badging often as iconic as the kidney grilles. With rear badging in mind, this article attempts to have a source for “one-stop shopping” of the details surrounding rear panel ornaments on all 02 factory models, including variants, plus common owner preference/modified cars. The authors welcome additions and critique associated with our intent to document rear panel emblems for these 02 cars, as we understand some differing points of view related to everyone’s knowledge of and passion for these BMW 02 cars. Please PM with comments. We’ll start with the “platform” for this rear panel emblem article—the actual sheet metal rear panel parts. Three separate tail panels were produced for BMW 02 production cars, not counting unique panels associated with the 1600 GT, GT4 Frua Coupe, and several Baur prototypes. The first panel, with part number 41 34 5 434 100, had badge mounting sites in several different locations, the first exclusive to 1966-1968 1600-2 cars and prototypes. A second location was used for the Baur cars, later 1600-2, 1602, and all other 2002 sedans and variants through September 1973. The second tail panel for BMW 02 cars was stamped beginning in 1971 for the hatchback Touring cars, and the rear panel part number for all these Touring cars (1971-1974) is 41 34 1 808 735. (The Touring car was never made with square taillights). The third and final 02 tail panel was stamped to accommodate the so-called “square taillight” cars. This part number is 41 34 1 828 988. The calendar year 1973 utilized both the round and square taillight rear panels, as the model year changed in September 1973. The square taillight tail panel was also used on all BMW Turbo 02 models. The Early BMW 1600 Cars No serious study of the early 02 Series cars should go without mention of early archivists and history writers. This article explores the rear panel emblems on the first 1966 production cars and significant tail panel emblem changes surrounding the 1967 and 1968 cars. A more complete treatment of the early 1600-2 cars can be found in “The ’66 Bible” by Anders Bilidt. Many books and articles have been written on these older BMW cars, not to mention the wonderful information available through BMW Group Classic and their BMW Group Archive. We also relied on certain information from The Alpina Book, by Paolo Tumminelli. We could not consult all references, but we tried our best. As noted above, for purposes of this article, we did not attempt to thoroughly address the 1600 GT cars, 1967-1968, as the emblems were all mounted on the trunk lid, not the rear panel. To our knowledge, the trunk lid badging never changed on these GT cars, and there was never factory badging on the rear panel as seen on a rare 1967 BMW 1600 GT convertible and the BMW 1600 GT coupe. The first BMW 02, the 1600-2, was introduced at the Geneva Auto Show in March 1966. The rear panel badging consisted of a single BMW letter/number script with no roundel emblem. The three photos below illustrate a typical, early 1600-2 rear badging in the rear panel's top right corner. Note the zeros in the 16oo script were in an odd “lowercase.” 1600 stands for the cc displacement of the engine, and the “-02” moniker means two doors. Beginning in December 1966, the tail panel emblem changed. The BMW letter script went away entirely, and the 1600 numbers changed to all same-sized numbers, all at about VIN 1510977. For the first time on the tail panel of 02 cars, a Roundel emblem was added to the rear panel just before the 1600 number. The BMW Roundel insignia has been around on company stationery since the early 20th century and on many motorcycles and cars before the production of the 02 Series, but this is the first time the iconic roundel would appear on the rear panel of an 02 car. The upper right-hand portion of the rear panel, between the beltline and the top of the panel, is relatively narrow and has a peculiar surface shape. This area is about 70 mm in height, from the beltline to the top of the panel. Small, convex reveals in the sheet metal at the top and bottom of this portion of the rear panel combine to form a distinctly concave center shape to the mounting surface. In other words, above the beltline, this “upper” portion of the rear panel does not lend itself to absolute flush mounting of any script badging or emblems. This uneven mounting surface was manageable when the rear badging was simply the BMW16oo part. So it seems that all rear panel emblems mounted in this “upper zone,” whether scripted letters or numbers, badges, or other emblems, are mounted to this slightly concave surface. Such a mounting surface for the single-part letter/number script of early 1600-2 cars was inconvenient for the added, new roundel badge. The mounting surface of the roundel, and indeed the roundel itself, had to be designed and machined to accommodate a proper fit for the mounting to negotiate both the concave center of the mounting surface and the convex reveals in the tail panel sheet metal at the top and bottom of the fitment surface. Part 51 14 5 480 182 shows these small roundels' intricate mounting surface machining. In this case of this part, the word "Roundel" is a bit of a misnomer, as these smaller roundels are not perfectly round. The width of the roundels, as measured along the axis of the mounting studs, is 63 mm, whereas the height of the roundel is 60 mm. These roundels are no longer available, but an NOS part was acquired for some of the photos in this article and an ongoing 1600 restoration. Not all of these smaller roundels were embossed with the part number on the back side of the badge. As shown above, the outer, top surface has embossed "BMW" letters, raised concentric rings, and raised crosshatching separating the blue and white colors. Some owners have reported their roundels came entirely silver, but that's highly unlikely and presumed to be caused by years of weather wear on the paint or other assaults to the emblem. The underside view shows the distinct oval shape of this roundel. The thickening of the longitudinal edges of the roundel can be compared to the relative thinness of the top and bottom. There is also a distinct machined bevel at the mounting surface. These features combine to make the emblem appear flat when mounted on an undulating sheet metal surface. These tricky little roundels and their "top spot" for rear panel mounting were used only with BMW 1600-2 sedans, December 1966-January 1968, and in some early BMW 1600-2 Baur prototypes. For BMW 1600-2 sedans, the upper mounting position for tail panel emblems and the small roundel was phased out between January 1 and January 15, 1968, between VIN numbers 1562248 and 1562310. There are reports of later 1600-2 sedans having the small roundel and upper badge mounting location, although unconfirmed as factory mountings. Many experts think no definitive cut-off date or VIN is known for the cessation of use of these small roundels. Not to belabor the point, but note the thinner top and bottom edges to roundel, thicker sides at the center of the emblem, but a constant width to the final beveling surrounding the badge at the mounting surface. This machine work allows the roundel to "nest" within the concave and convex mounting rear panel surfaces between the beltline and panel top, yet outwardly appear to be mounted flush. The result was an attractive look, which included having the roundel's outer surface stand out "proud" of the panel stampings and trim. In September 1967, BMW introduced a new 02 model, the BMW 1600ti. For purposes of this article, the most exciting bit of information about this new performance car is the design of the new roundel and the location of the emblem and number script. We could find only one promotional video of the new 1600ti in which the prototype badging was at the top location, and this badge had no “ti” at the end—just the roundel and 1600 number. The front grille badge of this same car did have the full 1600ti script badge. During production of the 1600ti, BMW used a larger roundel (about 70 mm in diameter, and this one is round) and with the emblem/badging fixed to a flat mounting surface--the sheet metal portion of the tail panel next to the rear license plate bracket. Later, in January 1968, all 02 Series cars and all subsequent variants of the 02 cars, including the Baur cabriolets, were badged in this same position until the 1974 model year. The earliest 1600ti that we can confirm had this lower badge mounting location, and larger roundel is VIN 1580144, September 1967, and the newest 1600ti we have recorded is VIN 1588015, with a build date in August 1968. Ironically, "ti" stands for "Touring International" but the 1600ti was never sold in the USA due to emissions standards. The correct roundel for the lower mounting position for the 1600ti and many other lower badged 02 Series cars is still widely available, either NOS or as a reproduction. An authentic roundel will be metal with BMW letters and silver rings raised around painted surfaces. The BMW part number is 51 14 1 801 560. The rear panel “1600ti” script is available as a reproduction or, if you're lucky, as a NOS part. The BMW part number is 51 14 1 802 112. Plastic roundels of this 70 mm size, with smooth exterior surfaces, are also sold (sometimes under the same part number), but finding an authentic example or repainting an original is best. Many restoration tips can get you started here. Rear Badging in the Lower Position, 1968-1973 Early in 1968, the iconic BMW 2002 hit the market. As with the 1600ti, all badging for the 2002 and its pre-1974 variants were with the badge array to the right of the license plate bracket, with the larger roundel above. The appropriate script number/lettering that identified the model was mounted below the roundel. This badging location, with the same roundel and differing script depending on the model, continued through the change in model years 1973-1974. This was also true for the 2002, 2002ti, 2002tii, 1600, 1602, and 1802 sedans, and the Baur 1600 and 2002 full cabriolets, as well as all Baur 2002 “Top Cabriolet” variants, until the 1974 model year. In a phrase, this lower right spot was a tail panel badging location and roundel/script badge array system that lasted almost seven years, over half of the BMW 02 production lifespan. This rear panel emblem system originated from the scrappy 1600ti badging array location in September 1967. Most of the 02 Series rear panel badge arrays, including the Baur convertibles and cabriolets and all 2002 variants up until model year 1974, utilized this lower position for the roundel and number/script location. Touring cars had a letter/number script below the Touring emblem and a roundel on the hatchback lid. The 1802 was available in Europe as a sedan in April, 1971. The 1802 had 2002 pistons and a 1600 crank shaft. An automatic version was available in Israel in limited numbers. The tail panel badging on the first 1968 BMW 2002 sedans was always in the lower right position on the rear panel, until the advent of the "square taillight" body styles in the 1974 model year. Then, all 02 cars took on badging at the top right of the rear panel again, in sort of a "back to the future” move. In May 1969 BMW offered an automatic transmission 2002 option with VIN 2530001. The "Automatic" script was mounted above the beltline trim in the upper right corner, as shown below. Interestingly, automatic transmissions were not offered in the BMW 1602, and only in about 100 1802 cars were produced for the Israeli market. The dual carburetor 2002ti was rear-badged in the same place as its 1600ti predecessor and other 02 Series variants of the day. After the ti, along came the 2002tii, below, with "tii" roughly translated as Touring International (fuel) Injected. This may have been the most sought after BMW “cult” model in 02 Series history. Enough of them were around to be available and affordable. Baur Coachworks and Early Cabriolets The BMW cabriolets came in several models, and the tail panel badging of the early prototypes is interesting. BMW challenged the Karmann Factory and Baur Coachworks to build an open car prototype suitable for production. Karmann built one type, the red car shown below—BMW rejected that design. Note the upper 1600 script location and small roundel badge on this Karmann Cabriolet prototype. Baur Coachworks actually built three prototypes to try to satisfy BMW request for an open car. One was a coupe with a sunroof, which was rejected by BMW (the 2000 C coupe series, already on the market, had an electric sunroof option at the time of this Baur coupe prototype). This low-slung coupe was limousine-like! Note the 1600 script with a small roundel badge in a high position, a location similar to many late 1967 cars. While we are not sure of the order of these prototypes, a second Baur prototype was known as the 1600-2 “student’s car” roadster. There are two pictures below, one side view and one rear view next to the above Baur sunroof coupe. Note that the tail badging on the “student’s car” is mounted on the top left of the rear panel, and on close inspection, this is the BMW 1600 emblem from the early 1966 1600-2 cars, with an unknown badge to the right. Placing the badge in the upper left location on this car is unusual. The older 1966 version of the BMW 1600 script badge adds uniqueness. It is intriguing to find the meaning of the rectangular emblem positioned to the right of the BMW 1600 badge! The last, early 1600-2 cabriolet prototype, the one accepted by BMW, had tail panel badging in the "top" position with the small roundel, as shown on the early sales brochure car below. We believe BMW used the same prototype for their early ad campaign. For production Baur convertibles, VINs 1557001-1557007 were the first six production cars, and we cannot verify that any of these cars were “top badged” like the prototype convertibles, even though these six production cars were built in calendar year 1967. Baur Cabriolets, made after January 1968 apparently, consistently had the badging in the bottom right position location, next to the license plate bracket. While it is possible that some buyers could have ordered “top position” badging later in January 1968, it appears the lower right position was the normal production badging for all Baur cabriolets, 1968-1973. We understand supplier shortages or other circumstances could have caused some “high-badged” cabriolets to enter the production stream, but we did not find evidence of such factory anomalies. Baur Coachworks never used a rear badge for their company designation, marketed by BMW, but rather different fender badges for the full cabriolet (long, rectangular red badge below) and the smaller, more square badge (blue emblem below) for the “Top Cabriolet” or Targa-type top with the built-in roll-bar. The early 1970s was to bring a treasure trove of new 02 models, in addition to the 2002 and its variants. As in earlier years, several new models were only available in Europe. The Touring Cars In 1971, BMW began producing an entirely new model known as the BMW Touring. This was a three-door hatchback and only sold new in Europe. The first of these Touring cars appeared in three engine variants, the 1600, 2000, and 2000tii, but what was to follow was a dizzying array of choices, including the Touring 1800, 1802, 2002, and 2002tii. The tail panel number script badging was attached near the bottom of the rear panel, under the Touring script. The tail panels reflected all these changes and offerings in the Touring car. The Automatic versions of the Touring car were given transmission identity below the model badging and above the bumper. This appears to be the same script badge used in the 1969 2002 sedan. Square Taillight Rear Panels, 1974 and Beyond September of 1973 marked the model change month for 1974 cars, and there were big changes. Not just automotive facelifts, but to be true to the metaphor, also some "butt tucks." Rear panels completely changed the badging array on almost every previous 02 Series model except the Touring car. The new square taillight rear panels had big changes in tail panel badging. To begin, please look at the new rear look of the basic BMW 1602 sedan. BMW moved the number script tail panel emblem up to the top right of the rear panel, in about the same spot as the 1966-1968 cars. The roundel was now missing from the tail panel and mounted only on the trunk lid. The BMW 1802 was also available in Europe in 1974. Only manual transmission, no automatic option. The iconic standard BMW 2002 was available, with a four or five-speed manual transmission. No special tail panel badging was offered to distinguish which manual gearbox was in the car. In 1974, you could get an automatic transmission with your standard 2002, and the automatic was badged on the left side, top tail panel position, a relatively rare spot for badging among 02 Series cars. In 1974, the Baur “Top Cabriolet” car also maintained the new tail panel look from the factory. Baur “Top Cabriolets” were available in the 2002 platforms only. There were no Baur ti or tii cars ever produced by Baur Coachworks or sold through BMW. In 1975, BMW introduced a new 02 model, marketed as an economy car that would burn low-octane gasoline. The tail panel reflected this new economy model, the 1502. The 2002 was still available in 1975 in 4 speed or five speed, and this European model has small bumpers. The rear badging is the same as in 1974. The 1975 BMW 2002 was also available and badged as an automatic transmission-equipped car. However, from VIN 2391461 a factory car may have been originally equipped with an automatic transmission but had no “Automatic” rear panel badge. Still around in 1975 was the 2002tii, with tail panel badging exactly like what appeared in 1974, as in the European model. 1975 was the last year of production for the 2002tii. The Baur Top Cabriolet was still available in 1975, with typical square taillight badging. This would be the last year for the Baur 02 cabriolets, as none were produced in 1976 or 1977. In 1976, the “economy model” BMW 1502 was still available, with tail badging exactly like the debut model in 1975. In 1976, the last of the iconic 2002 cars were produced, with rear panel badging, fittingly, in the same spot as with the first 1600-2. In 1977, BMW ended production of its 02 Series. The only model left to buy was in Europe, the BMW 1502, rear panel badge and roundel still mounted on the trunk lid. Limited BMW 02 Cars BMW 2002 Turbo 1974 through 1975, BMW offered its ultimate 02 Series muscle car, the BMW Turbo. This car had special tail panel badging, with the 2002 number script at the top right corner and Turbo at the left top. A roundel appeared at the bottom right, likely the same 70 mm roundel featured in the rear panel badging 1968-1973. The 02 Series Lux Sedans, 1974-1975 The authors felt it was worth bringing up the rear badges of BMW Lux cars, in that during two years of production, and these models seemed to represent a trend. BMW seems to return to its wildly successful Neue Klasse roots of the 1960s by adding a luxury component to the 02 Series. In 1974, the rear panel badging moved back to the upper right of the rear panel, similar to the first 1600-2 cars. This seems like an important company turning point, as the Neue Klasse theme will be a part of BMW's product line in 2026. The now famous Tilux Neue Klasse 2-liter saloons, introduced in 1966, offered sports car performance with a nicely appointed, luxury interior. Wood trim and velour upholstery were among the interior niceties. Simultaneously, the Karmann Factory produced the 2000 C series cars, including a 2000 CS coupe with a manual transmission and a 2000 CA with automatic shift. These new coupes were equally well appointed with interior upgrades. During the waning years of 02 production, BMW pursued luxury with other models, such as the NK 2000, and the “New Six” 2800—both models produced contemporaneously with the last of the 02 cars. In 1974, BMW added the Lux package to spruce up the aging 02 Series, ostensibly until the first 3 Series could replace it. As the name implies, BMW designers focused on more luxurious interior features, adding a wooden ashtray surround, door trim capping, gear shift knob, and instrument binnacle. The steering wheel was padded, while the seats were covered in velour, similar to that used in the Neue Klasse cars of the 1960s. Similarly, there were door pockets, a rear-seat armrest, and velour carpets. From the outside, only a lockable fuel cap and the distinctive “L” accompanying the rear panel badge let the onlooker know this was a Lux model. The rear panel badging was not only in the upper right position, but also designed on a black plaque. The background plaque was black, no matter what color car was chosen, and the sweeping “L” for Lux, and script numbers, were always silver. Over these years of production, the Lux models were only available in Europe, and the Lux option was available in 1602, 2002, and 2002tii models. BMW went on to offer a Lux option in models produced after the 02 Series, and apparently will feature a return to “Neue Klasse” in future models thus continuing a drift towards luxury that was revived within the 02 Lux-option years. Diana There may have been more than one Special 02 variant; cars produced in limited numbers, not available to the public at large, and with the cooperation of BMW. The only one we could find with good photo documentation was the “Diana.” Hubert Hahne, a BMW racing driver and agent, created twelve BMW Dianas. He gave one to his new wife, the German actress Diana Korner, as a wedding present. BMW 2002 GT4 Also known at the BMW GT4 Frua Coupe, this car was produced in even smaller numbers than the Diana, only two cars in 1969 and 1970. The GT4 had 2002 tii running gear, and was designed by the famous Italian auto stylist Pietro Frua. The rear panel badging was truly unique, even if it did occur twice on both cars! However, the rear panel array does occupy the upper right position on the rear panel, and the roundel appears to be the 70 mm roundel used from 1968. The 2002 GT4 script badging is definitely something different on this beautiful and rare coupe BMW 1602 Elektro-Antrieb BMW produced two electric cars, the Elektro-Antrieb (Electric Drive), apparently specifically for the 1972 Olympic Games in Munich. The two experimental cars were built on the 1602 platform and are sometimes referred to as the "1602e." The cars were built not only for Olympic duties but also to investigate whether an electric drive unit would suit passenger vehicles. The engine bay contained a bank of 12 Varta 12V lead-acid batteries, while a Bosch DC shunt-wound electric motor replaced the gearbox with an output of 32kW (43hp), which sent a drive to the rear wheels. The car completed the Marathon course at the Munich games, serving as the Course Car. It also carried out other duties at the Olympics, such as camera cars for other events. Above, rear panel badging was the same as in any 1972 BMW 1602 production car. Alpina Alpina entered their partnership with BMW in the early 1960s. Burkhard Bovensiepen, son of an industrialist who made Alpina Typewriters, began dabbling with tuning improvements on the 1961 Neue Klasse 1500 sedan. The first shop was in a small Bavarian town called Kaufbeuren, and at the suggestion of his Mother, Bovensiepen used the name ALPINA for his auto tuning business. With this 1500 BMW car, Bovensiepen had an underpowered vehicle with lots of room in the engine bay. The first performance improvements included twin Weber side draft carburetors and a 264-degree duration camshaft. The twin Webers and more aggressive camshaft brought about a huge performance improvement. By the time the 02 Series was in production in 1966, Alpina was ready with special performance parts and kits. And, on the subject of emblems, ALPINA used two script badges of note in the early days. The first was a script badge that took on a ‘typewriter” type font, as seen on the valve cover. During these times, BMW certainly noticed this small tuning shop's success and considered their work to be the highest quality among many other tuners. Before updating the “typewriter” script badge, Bovensiepen decided ALPINA needed a logo, and his notion was of a round logo, not dissimilar in basic design from the BMW Roundel. So, the early ALPNA logo (1967-1971) was designed to show a “coat of arms” insignia, with the Weber carburetor body and velocity stacks in the red sector and the upgraded camshaft in the blue section, stylized images, of course. By 1965, BMW and ALPINA had a cooperating agreement, and perhaps the most significant part of that agreement was BMW’s willingness to extend their factory warranty to cars that had been fitted with ALPINA components. So when the 02 series was brought to market in the spring of 1966, AL-PINA was ready to upgrade these early 1600-2 cars. Many thanks to Michael Compensis in Germany @Alpina-A0 for sharing precious photos and context for this article on ALPINA badging. The very first rear panel script badging (in Michael’s records) can be seen in a German magazine called ”Auto, Motor, und Sport,” with the article dated October 1, 1966. Just one month later, the same rear panel badge appears in a Swiss magazine called “Automobile Illustrierte” dated November 4, 1966, and titled “BMW 1600-2 Alpina, Heißer Ren-ner in bürgerlichem Anzug.” The article title roughly translates to “hot racer in a mannerly suit,” but German sports car fanciers would interpret it as “Looks like a well-behaved civil car, but is actually a hot track car!” The car below bears the license plate is KF-N-7. A closer look at this early “typewriter” or “archaic” font rear panel script badge is provided below courtesy of the BMW 2002 Car Club of Great Britain, Alpina 02 Section. Note the mounting position in relation to the taillight surround and the belt trim oval cutouts. This may be the same badges were made of aluminum in fine detail. The “typewriter” or “archaic” script badge was also available in early Alpina performance kits. We are assuming the DIY owner of the kit could put the script badge on the rear panel as with the above cars, or on the valve cover, etc. We can document a second version of the Alpina script badge from April 1967; this version first showed up on the valve cover of a BMW engine on a test bench. The article “Auto, Motor und Sport” was published in the magazine on April 7, 1967. This new style of script badge seems to suggest the “typewriter” script had been abandoned, so the early “archaic” font only lasted a little over two years and was shared by Neue Klasse and 02 Series cars from late 1964 to 1967. The date of this photo is 1967. It should be noted that these early script badges were mounted in various places on the 1600-2 cars. On May 17, 1967, this “new” version of the script badge appeared on the hood of a 1600-2 car, a photo on the cover of “Hobby” magazine Another magazine ad for ALPINA wheels shows the same badge in the same front fender mounting location but with no Talbot mirrors this time. We believe this advertisement to be associated with an Alpina wheel advertisement, as the red car continues to sport MiniLites, the go-to light wheel standard for early ALPINA. Unlike the “typewriter” or “archaic” font script badges, which we believe were predominantly installed by ALPINA at the Kaufbeuren shop (except for DIY installation of script emblems provided in parts kits), this new design of Alpina script badge could be purchased as a separate item. It was not sold specifically for rear panel installation, so the buyer could install the badge wherever they pleased, on the valve cover, fenders, rear panels, etc. The 01/1968 photo is of an early Alpina catalog/price list, from January 1968. See the fourth item from the top in teal color from the top, “ALPINA-Schriftzug. 180 mm lang…” Note the way the silver “underline” travels slightly past the two “A’s” in ALPINA, and the ends of the underline are cut at the same angle, sort of a “julienne cut,” if you will. We know these badges were used from 1967 through 1969, and it’s simply not clear when these second version script badges were discontinued, but perhaps before 1972. What is clear is that stickers and decals took the place of metal ALPINA ornaments sometime after 1972. Above badge was 180 mm long. As noted above, the first examples of the second variation of the ALPINA script badges are evident in magazine article photos. Michael Compensis notes that at least one photo of KF-N 999 is from the Swiss magazine “Powerslide” in 1969. The photo is clearly showing a rear panel mounting spot in the “upper right” position above the belt line. It should be recognized that these were magazine publicity photographs, so the script badging would be expected. It may not have been a normal ornament on all early Alpina prepared cars or in all ALPINA performance kits. But script badges shown in auto magazine photos made some readers want script badges, too! Best guess: Some ALPINA performance parts equipped cars had script badges, and some did not. This photo from the magazine “Auto Italiana’, June 1969, appears to show our friend KF-N 999 rebadged as a BMW 2002, flying Italian license plates and having a minor “pig cheek” job done to the rear fenders. The Alpina “second version” script badge is still there, top right position. In November 1968, the German magazine “Auto, Motor und Sport” featured a Polaris BMW 2002, license plate number KF-R-11, which shows the new version of the Alpina script badge mounted in the upper position above the beltline. The calendar year 1973 was a transition year in many ways for the BMW 02 Series. The square taillight rear panel had slightly different opportunities for mounting badges in the “upper position” on either side, as the rear silver beltline was eliminated in favor of a more prominent, convex sheet metal re-veal in the stamping. So, for 1974, Alpina offered a significantly smaller script letter part, with a black background incorporated into the part. The background was plastic, and the letters chrome. The price list from August, 1974, shows this black plastic and chrome letter part as the very first line of the “BMW ALPINA” price list: “Alpina Markenzeichen (120 x 20 mm) sum Aufkleben auf die Karosserie seitlich oder hinten” with the literal translation being “Alpina Signet, to be stuck on the body, on the sides, or on the rear.” This is the first instruction we can find in BMW/ALPINA publications for the ALPINA script badge to be “stuck… on the rear!” Eight items down from the top on the price list: "Schriftzuge “ALPINA”, seitlich auf die Motor-haube aufzukleben" translates as “ALPINA lettering stuck on the side of the Bonnet/Hood.” So, it appears now BMW and ALPINA are giving some guidance as to where these script badges should be mounted on the cars. Between 1974 and 1976, with complete BMW ALPINA automobiles coming from the new Buchloe Alpina Factory, much of the body badging was done using decals or stickers. Above please see the product and price list. The actual ALPINA sticker for the rear panel was relatively large, approximately 300 mm long, and came with Mounting Material and Alpina Cleaner Fluid. A larger Alpina decal in a square light BMW 2002 in the upper right location is overpoweringly large when compared with the earlier “typewriter” font rear panel script badges or second version chrome badges! This is also where the BMW “2002” number script badge should be located. In the later days of 02 Series production, the ALPINA badging seemed to go much more in the direction of owner preference than any standard application. The car below does not only have a full decal kit but also an ALPINA metal badge mounted on the left top position of the tail panel and the BMW factory number script badge in its proper position on the right top side of the rear panel. BMW-ALPINA Roundel Badges have a complicated history. In the very early years, perhaps as early as 1966-1967, ALPINA developed a roundel that looked a lot like the official BMW roundel, but had the word “ALPINA” along the bottom curve of the roundel. By our eyes, the ALPINA part of the badge above seems to have a slightly larger font than the BMW lettering! There were other versions of the ALPINA roundel, one that only said “ALPINA” with some white and blue shapes as background and some colors of the BMW Bavarian roundel. As the story goes, one or more ALPINA roundels were eventually seen in magazines, particularly the “Auto, Motor und Sport” issue in September 1967. After BMW saw the joint billing (top photo of car hood nose, above) and single billing ALPINA roundels (wire wheel center above), it was mutually agreed that these emblems would not be used due to too much similarity to the official BMW roundel. If you go to Alpina’s current official website, under the heading “Emblems,” you will see the following warning: "Incidentally, you should be suspicious if you see an Alpina emblem on the front or rear of a car. A genuine BMW ALPINA automobile never denies its roots and proudly bears the BMW emblem. You will only find the ALPINA emblem on the exterior on genuine ALPINA wheel sets and in the engine compartment.” Sellers use official BMW roundel part numbers for these emblems, so caveat emptor when viewing these items, which are not sanctioned by either BMW or ALPINA. Such roundels are not thought to be often emblems used on rear panels of 02 Series cars, but it appears they are made to possibly fit the hood or trunk lid. Just be aware they are not thought of highly of by the automakers. It’s also generally considered not correct to place an ALPINA badge of any sort on a car that has no Alpina performance heritage. The ALPINA “warning” statement specifically approves ALPINA lettering and badging associated with genuine ALPINA wheels as on this older steel wheel center with the “newer” coat of arms, adopted in 1971, with the crankshaft replacing the camshaft in the blue field. While the authors did not specifically focus on race cars in this article, this Alpina historical account was too good to pass up, given the gentlemanly discussions about Alpina roundels. We quote from The Alpina Book, edited by Paulo Tumminelli: “Without the permission of BMW, a white-red-blue sticker was used for the 1968 season racing cars.” Note the rear panel placement of the sticker! The authors appreciate the courtesy and highly recommend The Alpina Book for more information As I final remark in our Alpina section, we remember Burkhard Bovensiepen, 1936 to 2023. Alpina published a statement on the occasion of his October 2023 passing, which reads as follows: “Burkard Bovensiepen was a visionary, a perfectionist, and a man of clear ideas. When he had an idea in mind, he never tired of refining it until it matched his vision and expectations 100 percent.” Owner Preferences Tribute 02 Cars Typically, tribute cars within the 02 Series are someone’s best attempt to build and restore a car to a fine condition on an appropriate platform but to the near exact specifications of a factory original or variant. In other words, creating a car that did once exist, but on a different platform and obviously at a later point in time, and not in a factory setting, but to near exact specifications of the original car. There are many 02 tribute cars out there, but we found one worth showing for discussion purposes, nuances, and with permission of the owner. In the Alpina Tribute Car below, Michael McCullers of BMW2002FAQ took a very nice 1967 1600-2 and made it into an Alpina Tribute Car. Many folks make 1600ti Tribute Cars out of early 1600-2 sedans, but Michael took his tribute more directly to an original Alpina platform lookalike. Early Alpina cars, fitted at the Kaufbeuren shop in Germany or outfitted with an ALPINA performance kit, were never identical. So, the challenge for this Alpina Tribute build is to produce a car in modern times that would have utilized parts of the period and have period aesthetics. Most of Michael McCuller's work is under the hood with an original (and rare) Alpina performance kit, correct and period engine work, and period suspension components with Alpina wheels. Michael kept the original rear panel roundel and script location, true to his 1600-2 donor car, as would have been correct back in the day. So this Alpina tribute, correctly, has no Alpina rear panel emblem. The only exterior giveaway that this car may be an Alpina performance 1600-2 are the Alpina period wheels. All the rest are Alpina items that you can’t see from outside. "ALPINA-Anlage" (ALPINA Kit System) was used in the build. Michael nailed this ALPINA tribute car, even down to the beautiful interior features. In his pre-build research, Michael McCullers also discovered a "Car and Driver" magazine ALPINA Works Specification Sheet, including a Check List, for a 1967 1600-2. Note the only rear panel emblem on the car below is the factory "upper location" 1600 number script, preceded by the small roundel. While many of the engine specifications in the Car and Driver guidance was for a 1,990 cc engine, Michael applied other applicable information to assure that his 1600-2 Alpina tribute was as conforming to general Alpina features of the period. This is an interesting specifications sheet that calls out specifications for a 1990 cc engine. Thus, an ALPINA-sanctioned engine swap was used to obtain maximum performance. Michael's car above maintains it's 1600 cc engine, but this spec sheet circumstance illustrates the ability to build a correct ALPINA tribute car with an engine swap, just as Alpina did back in the day. No holds were barred in these early days of Alpina, and performance was the top ALPINA goal. As a fitting end to this section on Tribute Cars, note the photo below, which should seem familiar: our KF-N 999 Alpina discussed in the ALPINA section. Clones For this article, we will call “clones” 02 cars that people thought would be a good idea or even constructed to feign as being rare or unusually valuable, but were never produced by any BMW facility nor condoned by BMW as a “Special.” Clones are claimed to be genuine BMW cars, hence the connotation. Below, please see the tail panel treatment on a “1600ti” Touring car, of which BMW has never offered any. In other words, it can’t be a tribute car if the vehicle was never produced or condoned as an official BMW product, or as a Special. If it’s being represented as original, it’s clearly a clone. But if the owner is openly representing the car as modified significantly from any BMW-affiliated version, represented as “should have been one but never was”, then it may fall in the next group of non-original 02 cars, restomods. See the 1600ti clone below. We are assuming it’s a clone, the language in the sales ad reading the car is “the rarest of the E10 Series.” Restomod Cars and Tail Badges Restomod cars come in a wide variety within the BMW 02 Series. Most 02 restomods were originally 1600 cc cars modified by “updating” the engine with a 2-liter motor and updated running gear. Genuine Alpina cars or Tributes are not considered restomods, as they conform to a build by Alpina, a company that was officially approved by BMW. An example of a restomod is an early VIN 1600-2 full cabriolet that has been fitted with a 2002 engine and then re-badged to indicate the new status. Body, VIN, and badging say “It’s a restomod.” In most cases, tribute cars, clones, and restomods turn out to be less valuable and less desirable than if they had been restored to original, but there are definitely some exceptions. The old car hobby has many facets! We hope this article has added to your general knowledge of BMW 02 Series cars, and perhaps caused you to “check your rear panel badging!” About the Authors Robert P. Smith @BritshIron is a long-time sports car fancier who retired in Hawaii. He has collected and maintained antique sports cars as a hobby for over fifty years. Les Cartwright @02Les is a retired BMW hobbyist living in Tennessee. He's kept extensive records of 02 VINs, sales, and BMW build records for many years. Steve Kupper @steve k. is the owner and operator of 2002FAQ.

Installation of BMW 2002 Door Glass and Door Components Larry Gray @2002#3 and Karl Bergmann @bergie33 (6/27/23) A door or window component installed out of order can easily block the installation of a subsequent part(s). The result can be wasted time, lost energy, and mental, physical, emotional, and spiritual upheaval. Therefore, a reasonable and practical order of installation of components is important to overall '02 happiness. This tech article will cover the proper order of installation of the door internal components, the specific parts that are installed in the doors, and the necessary hardware for a complete installation. General Order of Operation 1. grommets 2. connecting rod 3. door opening/lock mechanism, inner door handle mechanism, & connecting rod 4. window glass, rubber seal, & window guide rail 5. window regulator & window regulator arm 6. vent window regulator 7. vent window frame, front vent window frame bracket, front upper door bracket & front lower door bracket 8. male tab & female tabs 9. rear window guide rail 10. window guide rail, window regulator arm & guide slot 11. front window bracket , green plastic insert, & front upper stopper 12. front window bracket 13. rear window holder, rear upper stopper, distance rubber, nylon bushings 14. adjustments General Installation Let's assume (i) everything [except the door stop mechanism] has been removed from the door (cards, glass, door mechanisms, locks, handles, fasteners, etc., (ii) each piece has been meticulously cleaned, rehabbed, replaced, and well lubricated, (iii) all necessary rust, filling, and painting issues have been resolved, and (iv) all parts are ready to be installed. Notes · The guidelines in this article refer to 2002's in general. Individual cars and models might vary. · Take photos of all components, fasteners, nuts, bolts, etc. in their pre-removal position. · Use a scribe to outline the pre-removal position of each bolt head, washer, and fastener. · Keep all bolts and fasteners slightly loose during installation to facilitate adjustments · Keep adjusting the forward window bracket (L-shaped; 2 wheels) throughout the process so both wheels continually touch the vent window frame regardless of the position of the window (up or down) - one wheel touching the front and one wheel touching the back of vent window frame. · Make sure each original hole drilled through the window glass contains a small plastic bushings/sleeve through which bolts will pass. These bushings/sleeves are easily lost because they are small and hidden under rubber buffers which attach to the glass. · Keep like-function bolts fasteners together, especially short bolts. 1. Install 2 new clear plastic grommets into the door opening/lock mechanism and 1 grommet into the inner door handle mechanism. This will fix annoying door rattles when driving and when closing the doors. 2. SEE END NOTE. Install one end of the long connecting rod into the door opening/locking mechanism and the other end of the rod into the inner door handle mechanism. 3. SEE END NOTE. Install the door opening/locking mechanism, the inner door handle mechanism, and the connecting rod at the same time. Test for proper opening, closing, and locking functions. 4. Place window glass (with likely-attached rubber seal and window guide rail) into the door and let it rest onto the bottom of the door. Yes, all by its lonesome. This is the only time when insertion of the glass will be easy. You will be working around the glass, which will be secured later. 5. Install the window regulator (3 short bolts). Lower the regulator arm almost to its lowest point. 6. Install the vent window regulator. 7. Install the vent window frame (5 bolts). Attach the front vent window frame bracket to the front upper door bracket (near the top door hinge), the frame to the door just below the vent window, the lower frame to the front lower door bracket, and that bracket to a shelf in the bottom of the door. 8. Connect the vent window frame male tab and the vent window regulator female tab (1 bolt). Test for proper function. 9. Install the rear window guide rail (4 bolts). 10. Insert the end of the regulator arm into the guide slot in the window guide rail. The small washer should end up on the outside of the rail and the large washer should end up on the inside of the rail. 11. Install the front window bracket (L-shaped, 2 wheels) and the front upper stopper (same bolts). Make sure one wheel rides on the front of the vent window frame and one rides on the back of the frame. If you manipulate it properly, it will snap into place. Yes, it will. The green/white plastic insert must be forced into the rail. 12. Push the glass securely into the vent window frame felt channel, manipulate the front window bracket so both wheels touch the rail, and tighten the bracket bolts. This bracket is the main support and guide for the window. 13. Attach the rear window holder (has two white plastic inserts) onto the rear window guide rail. The rear window holder, the rear upper stopper, the plate, and the distance rubber might already be attached to the window glass. When assembling the rear window holder, the distance rubber folds over the bottom of the window. From outside to inside, the order is hex bolts, washers, rear stopper, rear window bracket, rubber buffer, glass, nylon bushings (in the holes; DO NOT lose them!), rubber buffer, plate. The rear window guide rail is the major part involved in adjustment and smooth operation. You might be moving it more than any part during adjustment. 14. Readjust the front window bracket to make sure both of its wheels touch the vent window frame rail. END NOTE: Steps 2 and 3 can be the last steps in the installation if desired. Such action will provide valuable room for Steps 4 through 13. However, completing Steps 2 and 3 at the end will involve some unanticipated planning, finagling, twisting, and thought processes. It will be a puzzle and you will find its solution really quite easy...but only in hindsight. Everything is likely in its proper place, and you are almost done. Now, the window must be adjusted - not much if you are lucky. Our FAQ2002 site has several posts which provide excellent guidelines for adjustments: freedom and ease of movement, maximum height (determined by the adjustable 2 stops; one on each end for the bottom of the window glass), lean out/in, evenness of raising and lowering (top edge raises and lowers parallel to the top edge of the door), snugness of the edges of the window and vent window frame against weather stripping around the door opening (to keep out water), snugness of the glass against the outer squeegee, etc. Details of the Installation, Assembly, Hardware, and Fasteners Here are the different assembly processes · Parts and Hardware/Fasteners · Vent Window Frame · Window Regulator · Rear Window Guide · Door Opening/Locking Mechanism & Inner Door Handle Mechanism These are arranged below to show the parts, hardware, and assembly for each section and to provide additional details to the above assembly instructions. A. Parts and Hardware/Fasteners 1. The Door 2. The Parts 3. Hardware and Fasteners (# needed for both doors) · M6x16 bolts with 2 captured washers (20) · M6x18 bolts (4) · M6x16 bolts (4) · M6x8 bolts (6) · M6x16 flat head Philips screw (2) · M6 toothed washers (14) · M6 flat washers large diameter (16) · M6 flat washers small diameter (2) · M6 hex nuts (2) · M6x12 Oval head phillips screws (4) · M6x16 Flat head screws (4) · M5x10 hex bolts (4) · M5 Toothed washers (4) B. Vent Window Frame 1. Vent Window Frame to door (2 holes below vent window) · M6x18 bolts (4) · M6 toothed washers (4) · M6 flat washers large diameter (4) 2. Front Vent Window Frame Bracket to Front Door Bracket (Upper door bracket is attached to the door at the upper door hinge with 2 M6x16 bolts with 2 captured washers). · M6x16 bolts with captured washers (4) 3. Vent Window Frame to Front Lower Door Bracket · M6x16 flat head Philips screw (2) · M6 toothed washer (2) · M6 flat washer small diameter (2) · M6 Hex nuts (2) 4. Front Lower Bracket to lower door (Bracket is attached to the door at the lower raised platform.) · M6x16 bolts with 2 captured washers (4) 5. Vent Window Regulator to vent window and door · M6x16 bolts (2) – to attach vent window frame male tab and the vent window regulator female arm · M6x16 bolts with 2 captured washers (4) – to attach the vent window regulator to the door. C. Window Regulator Regulator Arm Guide Slot 1. Window Regulator to door · M6x8 hex bolts (6) · M6 toothed washers (6) · M6 large diameter flat washers (6) 2. Window Guide Rail and Rubber Seal to window · split pin 4mmx28mm (or 5/32” x 1-1/2” ) (2) · nylon bushing - 1/4" od x 1/4" long, for #8 screw (2) 3. Front Window Bracket to Window Guide Rail and Front Upper Stopper (Front upper stopper is attached on the opposite side of the guide rail from the roller bracket, using the same attaching bolt) · M6x16 bolt with 2 captured washers (4) D. Rear Window Guide 1. Rear Window Holder, Distance Rubber, Rear Upper Stopper, and Plate to window · M6x25 hex bolts (4) · M6 flat washers, large diameter (4) · Nylon Bushings – 10mm od x 6mm id x 5mm thick (4) 2. Rear Window Guide Rail to upper door · M6x16 hex bolts (2) · M6 Toothed washers (2) · M6 flat washers, large diameter (2) 3. Rear Window Guide Rail to lower door · M6x16 bolts with 2 captured washers (4) E. Door Opening/Locking Mechanism & Inner Door Handle Mechanism 1. Door Opening/Locking Mechanism to Door · M6x12 Oval head Philips screws (4) 2. Door Latch Bump Stop to Door Opening/Locking Mechanism · M6x16 Flat head screws (4) 3. Inner Door Handle Mechanism to Door · M5x10 hex bolts (4) · M5 Toothed washers (4) · M5 flat washers, large diameter (4)

There's a great article on the genesis of the pump over at the tii register (1). I wanted to expand upon that with some of the early history to understand how the pump came about. Over the years, the pumps were branded with different names: Deckel, Schaefer, Kugelfischer & Bosch - it seems most of those companies were based in Bavaria, around Munich...but what started the ball rolling? Here I trace the history of technology and design and try to build the jigsaw of these different companies and locations that have kept this technology alive for 70+ years. The longevity of the pump is due to its precision, ruggedness, and simplicity... compared to other MFI systems, its fuel map is more precise/larger, and it is a much simpler design with far fewer moving parts than other Spica/Bosch pumps - and that simplicity also made it lower cost than the MFI competition. Friedrich Deckel GmbH Founded in 1903 as Bruns & Deckel, this was a precision engineering company where Bruns was the inventor/designer and Deckel was the engineering wizard capable of translating these designs into innovative products. They focused on shutters for photographic equipment: Bruns had invented/patented a 'leaf shutter' with a mechanical mechanism to control the shutter speed - enabling accurate fast & slow shutter speeds. Their brand name was 'Compur' a contraction of Compound Shutter and Uhrwerk (clockwork). These shutter mechanisms were embedded in the lenses Carl Zeiss and many other European manufacturers produced (2). Deckel made the equipment to manufacture the Compur shutters since no suitable precision equipment was available, and as time went by, the equipment side of the F.Deckel company became more important. The company became well-known in the precision engineering equipment business in the late 20th century. One area of the equipment business was machines to enable the precision manufacture of ball bearings. In 1928 the German Reich Aviation Ministry set out a specification for future aero engines that required all new engines to feature fuel injection (3). In the 1930s, BMW had licensed the Pratt & Witney Hornet radial engine (4) and developed the 801, 42 Litre 14 Cylinder radial engine to meet that specification. I speculate that BMW approached the local Munich precision engineering company, Deckel, to develop the mechanical injection system. Deckel developed an "Axial Fuel Injection Pump" which featured a fixed-stroke pump piston for each cylinder, driven by some 'cam ring.' The fuelling was varied by the careful rotation of the barrel for each piston: there was a spiral groove from the crown down the skirt of each piston and a 'spill port' in the wall of the barrel, so by rotating the barrel to align with the spiral groove, the compressed fuel will be bled off until the piston/groove rises to shut off the spill port. In this manner, the injection quantity can be varied down from the full stroke fuelling. Simple in principle but a precision device ideally suited to Deckel's skills. During WW2, the focus of the Freidrich Deckel company shifted strongly towards manufacturing these pumps, with the camera shutter manufacturing space converted to make injection pumps. The factory was bombed in 1943 and completely destroyed, but by that time, Germany had decentralized production of critical equipment and production restarted in various locations. FAG Friedrich Fischer Friedrich Fischer opened his first bicycle-making business in 1872 in Schweinfurt and started manufacturing ball bearings in 1883. By then, he was already known as 'Ball Fischer' (Ball=Kugel), and business expanded fast. In 1897, Erste Automatische Gußstahlkugel-Fabrik, vorm. Friedrich Fischer AG (FAG) was formed [Guss Stahl Kugel = Cast Steel Ball]. The name 'Kugelfischer' was used as the company telegram address in this period. Unfortunately, Friedrich died in 1899, and the business started to go into decline. (6) Georg Schäfer & Cie Formed in 1904, Schaefer was another Schweinfurt-based ball bearing manufacturer. Through family connections, Georg Schaefer had a minority stake in FAG (see his name as a director in the pic above), and in 1909 able to purchase FAG, he kept the better-known FAG name. He embarked upon a rapid expansion of the business thru WW1 and into the challenging depression years. Georg's son, Georg Shaefer Jr, became executive director in the mid 1920s. In 1941, after various management changes, the company was renamed Kugelfischer Georg Schäfer & Co. The Ball Bearing factories were the target of the famous Schweinfurt Raids in 1943, and 85% of the Schaefer's factories were destroyed (7). Schäfer Einspritztechnik This is the point where Deckel and Kugelfischer come together - I cannot find any specific articles on this transition, but it would appear that Deckel collaborated with Schaefer in the area of the fuel injection business, and Georg Schaefer formed what we would call today a 'special purpose vehicle' based in Munich to eventually take-over the business - this was Schaefer Einspritztechnik (Schaefer Injection Technology), it seems this happened in the early 1950s. I speculate that Schaefer knew the F Deckel company through being a customer for Deckel's ball-bearing grinding equipment We can see the pump 'branding as "FRIEDR.DECKEL," "SCHAFER-PUMPE," and "KUGELFISCHER SCHAFER-PUMPE" on pumps made in the 1960s and early 1970s - so there was some transition of ownership: Deckel had developed a variable stroke fuel injection system that was far less complex than the 1930s fixed stroke aero injection systems. To quote from a 1965 article by dr. Jenő Bujtor in Autó-Motor, titled "Simplification of petrol injection equipment": "Experience gained with gasoline injection devices put on the market in recent years showed that they are undoubtedly beneficial in terms of increasing performance and reducing specific fuel consumption, but their wider spread is strongly hindered by their complicated and delicate structure. Significant progress in this field was brought about by the Kugelfischer system injection equipment, ....... This extremely ingenious device is much simpler than the gasoline injection systems known so far." Deckel/Schaefer started collaborating with Peugeot in 1956 - leading to the launch of the Fuel Injected Peugeot 404 in 1962 (9). Most likely, there was a collaboration with BMW as well, they were both based in Munich, but the earliest references to BMW's use of the pump are the late 60's factory racers. Robert Bosch GmbH Bosch had been developing mechanical fuel injection for aero applications triggered by the same government specification mentioned above, providing the injection systems for the Daimler-Benz DB 600 series of V12 aero engines. After WW2, Bosch sought new applications for this Mechanical Fuel Injection technology, and in 1954 the first successful implementation of petrol fuel injection was by Bosch & Mercedes in the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL gullwing (10). This MFI remained a niche business on premium engines for Bosch, likely because of the complexity & cost of its MFI pumps. In the 1960s Bosch licensed Bendix Corporation's Intellectual Property for the Electrojector system (itself developed from military aero engine tech, 11). This was the first electronically controlled fuel injection system that Bosch developed into the D-Jetronic system that was launched in 1967. A wide variety of EFI systems have been developed since then. The big push to switch to EFI came from tightening emissions and fuel economy demands, which only computer-controlled systems could achieve. It seems surprising that Bosch purchased the mechanical fuel injection business from Schäfer Einspritztechnik GmbH in 1979, some 10+ years after they launched Bosch's EFI. At least part of the reason appears to be that the Kugelfischer system offered extreme reliability, as required for BMW's 1350 hp Formula 1 Turbocharged engine (M12/13). Bosch had both the Motronic EFI and the MFI systems, and for many of the early races in 1982, BMW chose the MFI system (12). These F1 systems use servo motor control of the cone in the Kugelfischer pump, so the injection volume is electronically programmed (the servo motor twists the cone to the right position). Still, the fuel delivery and injection are done mechanically, the same as Friedrich Deckel had designed in the 1950s. Bosch Tag BMW M12 Servo-controlled MFI pump Koller & Schwemmer Koller + Schwemmer GmbH & Co was a Bosch service agent in Nuremburg from the 1930s, in 1989 Bosch transferred all the mechanical fuel injection system support responsibilities to Koller and they provided service and support to the legacy systems in the field. In 2012 the Bosch Automotive Aftermarket division purchased Koller & Schwemmer and it now operates in cooperation with the Bosch classic division to supply parts & service to mostly diesel but also the petrol MFI (incl Kugelfischer) systems (13). The Pump Here's a video I made to show how the BMW2002tii pump works: Applications Peugeot 404 (1962), Peugeot 504 (1968) Lancia Flavia 1800 (1965) BMW : 2000 tii (1969), 2002 tii (1971), 2002 turbo (1974), 520i (1972–1976) , M1 (1978) Ford Capri RS 2600 (1970) Porsche 911 RS & RSR, Porsche 911 SC/RS Ferrari 308 Group IV Rally car Although awful quality, this video by BMW NA provides a nice pump overview: References: (1) https://www.2002tii.org/kugelfisher-pump-overview/ (2) https://web.archive.org/web/20130926091308/http://www.kl-riess.dk/compur.eng.html (3) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOSe4lmy8S4 (4) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_132 (5) https://www.henn.com/en/project/friedrich-deckel-maschinenfabrik (6) https://www.encyclopedia.com/books/politics-and-business-magazines/fag-kugelfischer-georg-schafer-ag (7) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Schweinfurt_raid (8) https://www.schweinfurtfuehrer.de/industriegeschichte/ära-haus-schäfer/organisation/ (9) https://autotechnika.hu/cikkek/motor-eroatvitel/8606/kugelfischer-schaefer-benzinbefecskendezes (10) https://www.bosch.com/stories/bosch-brings-gasoline-injection-to-cars/ (11) https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a36769816/brilliant-doomed-pioneer-fuel-injection/ (12) https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/november-2009/40/bmw-formula-1/ (13) https://www.autohaus.de/nachrichten/autohersteller/uebernahme-bosch-kauft-koller-schwemmer-2744516

If you own a BMW 2002 and want to keep it running smoothly, you need a reliable repair manual. Our online BMW 2002 repair manual is the perfect resource for all your repair and maintenance needs. This comprehensive manual contains step-by-step instructions, detailed diagrams, and helpful tips to help you troubleshoot and repair any issues that arise. Whether you're a professional mechanic or a DIY enthusiast, our BMW 2002 repair manual has everything you need to maintain and repair your vehicle. From routine maintenance tasks to more complex repairs, our manual provides clear and concise guidance to help you get the job done right. Our online BMW 2002 repair manual is available for instant access, so you can get started on your repairs right away. With our user-friendly platform, you can quickly and easily find the information you need, making it the perfect resource for any BMW 2002 owner. The relevant specifications are always provided at the beginning of each main group. Introduction Axle - Front Axle - Rear Automatic Transmission Body Equipment Body Work Brakes Clutch Electrical System - General Engine - Electrical Engine and Mechanical Equipment (Miscellaneous) Exhaust Foot Pedals Fuel System Fuel Tank Gear Selection Gearbox Drive Shaft Heat and Air Conditioning Instrument Panel Radiator Radio and Antenna Seats Steering Whee Alignment Wheels and Tires Wiring Diagrams Wiring Diagram (Oversized)

Before I dropped my front subframe, I searched the site for articles that provided the details on how to do this. There were a lot of bullet pointed lists, one or two chronicles and a few older articles that no longer had working images or links. Althought the process is pretty straightforward, it is always helpful to have a little detail, so here is my attempt to provide it. Since I'm working solo on this car, I am breaking things down into one-person jobs. I already have my engine and transmission out, so this guide concentrates solely on dropping the subframe by itself. If you are dropping transmission, engine and subframe as one unit, you will need to disconnect a lot more pieces and the whole package will weigh, what, about 525 lbs? The subframe by itself with the steering box attached weighs about 90-100 lbs. It is not difficult to deal with, but you can't just let it drop either. You will need 11mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm wrenches and sockets, a breaker bar, a large flathead screwdriver to use as a wedge (or an actual wedge), a large pair of channel-locks to turn turn the screwdriver if using it as a wedge, some paper towels (for wiping brake fluid), some baggies for your parts and (2) 2-3 foot long bungee cords (for the struts). I also recommend getting a furniture dolly from Harbor Freight so you can set the subframe on it to move it around more easily. Oh, and a box of gloves. Here are the steps involved along with some images. I am assuming the battery is out or disconnected. Jack the car up and put it on jackstands. You can either use the jacking mountpoints or in my case I used the inner body frame members because I already had the car jacked up using those. Remove the wheels. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to acc to release the steering column lock. You will need this to rotate the steering shaft coupling. . With 2 13mm wrenches, loosen up the steering coupling joint and remove the top and bottom clamp bolts. (There is a groove in the splines so you have to remove them completely. Don't forget to bag and tag them.) With a wedge or large screwdriver, loosen up the joint and slide it up onto the steering column shaft. This took a little work but I was able to do it by torqueing a large screwdriver with a pair of channel-locks. The coupling must be up above and completley clear of the steering box. Out-of-focus in progress and in-focus after completion images below. Next, disconnect the brake lines from the front struts using 11mm or 7/16 and 14mm wrenches. I chose to do disconnet the flex lines from the rigid lines on the struts. You will need to drain your brake lines if your brake system is intact. Mine was already partially broken down. Be prepared for brake fluid in any case. Oh, and be sure to save the connector pieces (two little pieces of spring steel) that will end up being loose. Once you get the brake lines disconnected, take the bungee cords, wrap them around the struts and secure them to the suspension on the subframe underneath. This will prevent them from dropping against the fender when they come free of the strut tower later. Next, with a 12mm socket, remove the bolts on top of the strut towers. They will not fall through (yet) and you do not need a spring compressor. Bag the bolts and washers. OK, now we get to the fun part! There are only 6 bolts holding this whole thing on and they are only about 18 inches apart on each side along the bottom of the frame rail. These require a 17mm socket and will probably require the breaker bar to loosen, although once loosened, mine came out very easily. I suggest that you initially remove the front and back bolts and just loosen the middle one on each side. Note that the front bolt is longer. There also isn't a lot of clearance to get a socket onto the rear bolt. With that one bolt still attached on each side, place your floor jack against the crossmember slightly off center a little closer to the steering box. It might not matter, but I did this in an effort to maintain balance. Jack it up snug and orient it so you can hold one of the struts as you are lowering it. Now remove the last two bolts and slowly lower the whole assembly to the ground. Don't forget to bag and tag the bolts. Surprise! It's done! Leave the bungee cords attached so that the assembly is easier to move without risk of a strut falling over. All done! I hope this was helpful. Scott

This write-up was revised on 8 Aug 2013. The photos in the original post were lost due to me fiddling around on Photobucket and breaking the links. I tried to recover most of what was originally there but some photos have escaped me. The suspension can be rehabbed in pieces or completely. Defining "completely" is scetchy. Completely can mean all of the bushings, brake components plus shock and strut components. Let's tackle the suspension bushings first. This is not a technical writing but a guide or forewarning of what to expect. There may be ways to rehab the suspension in the car but I will address the procedure as if the suspension is out of the car. Boy I feel inadequate to do this. The front suspension rehab consists of replacing the bushing in the frame, front axle support and tension rod, at the very front of the car, sway bar bushes, control arm bushing or the control arm itself, ball joints and idler arm bushings Parts from a Paul Wegweiser list from years ago. Part numbers need verified, seems like BMW changes them often. 31 12 2 614 006 lower control arm (includes bushings) 31 13 1 108 439 ball joint (KIT) 32 21 1 113 178 safety bolt for steering arm to strut, each 31 13 1 108 373 front subframe bushing (std 2 per car) 31 13 1 108 374 front subframe bushing (turbo 2 per car) 32 21 1 115 116 idler arm bushings (2 per car) Idler arm bushings. I believe the control arm needs removing before you can rehab the idler arm. Remove the cotter pin and the castlenut, pop off the metal cap and persuade the idler arm to move down through the bushings. Remove the old bushing from the idler arm housing or off of the idler arm itself. It may require using punches, drifts or grabbing and twisting with vice grips. To reinstall, place the new lower bush on the idler arm and the upper one in the housing. Insert the idler arm in the housing and through the upper bush. I need to verify if lubrication is needed. Place the metal cap on and the castle nut, torque to spec. 58-72 lb-ft Bushing at front axle support and tension rod You can use the stock, turbo or urethane bushing. The black one is the turbo. Red is the urethane. This is a tired bushing and needs replaced. This is a home made bushing tool. It is a 1 1/2 inch PVC coupler cut in half, all thread and a series of washers. The concept is the washer that is bigger than the coupler has a washer up against it, the washers on the other end are the size of the bushing or a scooch smaller in diameter. As you tighten the nut against the large washer, the all thread and smaller washers pull the bushing through the PVC. The job of the piece of the PVC on the side being pulled through, keeps the bushing from "bunching up" before it pulls through the metal housing. I had to place a wrench between the two pieces of PVC to keep them straight. I am sure there is a more sophisticated way to do this. Use this tool to remove and install new rubber bushes. Urethane are split and install without a tool.Urethane bushes need lubed to reduce squeaking. Sway bar bushes are pretty straight forward, just decide if you will use stock or urethane. Use hex cap bolts instead of hex head bolts. It is difficult to get a wrench or socket on the bolt head. Socket head bolts work the best. You can see the socket head bolts in the picture below. End Links I used Spicer Teflon bushing for the end links. Urethane is readily available too. I do not like the the way I did the bolts above. I like the threads up. Saves them from getting buggered up from the road. Control Arms There is a way to replace the inner and outer control arm bushes, they are different sizes and some suppliers have a hard time getting this straight so be careful if you order them. However, there is a lot to be said for just replacing the control arm. Inspect your old one and if it is bent from POs poor choice of a lifting point or if your not into removing the old bushes, just purchase the control arm and it comes with new bushes. I found this link (thanks to Jerry, Pinepig and Zenon) with great instructions on replacing the control arm bushing. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/ The pictures below may help you get the spacers and washers in the proper order in case you did not document this well when it was disassembled. Ball Joints I failed to get good photos of the ball joint replacement. One of the big challenges is getting the bolt that holds the ball joint to the pitman arm off. Use your best and biggest tools to get it loose. On reassembly, fill the cavity with grease to make it easier on your son when he has to replace it again in thirty years. Uncle CD says all mating surfaces should be clean metal, no paint or powder coating Be diligent in using the right grade of bolts. New ball joint kits come with the correct hardware. Grade 8.8. When you attach the struts to the pitman arms, most will recommend to use the bolts with the nut with the hole in so all three bolts can be safety wired together part number 32 21 1 113 178. Some will make an argument that high grade bolts with locktite is safe. BMW recommends the safety type bolts and safety wire. I have done it both ways. Completed front suspension. Struts One of the harder parts in replacing the strut inserts is deciding which ones to use, Bilstein HDs or Sports, Boge, Koni, etc. Once you decide, disassemble the strut assembly using safe spring compressors. Most strut inserts have a socket head on the end of the strut so you can hold it while you spin the Nyloc nut loose. You may find some poo inside the strut tube. Many stories on what it is and why it is there. No need to replace whatever it was. Be careful trying to coat the inside of the tube with paint or POR-15. It can make things too tight for the insert to go back in. Reassemble and use new strut bushing if you need them. I believe the ones for the e-21 (GUIDE SUPPORT M8X18 31 33 1 110 195) have shorter studs and make the top of your inner fenders look tidier. Lube the strut bushing bearing. I like that good red grease for this. This is a shot of the washers and cups for the strut bearing and shock assembly, thanks to someone who posted this on the FAQ, The photos below is my youngest son, Revvin Evan, doing the safety wire for me. He does all the connectors on his bike so he is pretty good at this. Safety wire is available at speed shops, bike shops, JEGS, Summit etc. The safety wire tool makes spinning the wire easy. When you install the struts on the pitman arms, use new safety bolts and safety wire. Wrap the safety wire so it traps the bolts and does not let it turn. Shortened Springs Shortened or shorter springs want to move from the rubber pads when the car is jacked up. To seat them properly involves putting your hands around the springs when the car is lowered. To eliminate this, the springs can be wired to the upper metal cap. Drill a hole in the cap and use a stainless steel wire to catch the upper coil on the spring and the spring will stay in place when the car is jacked up. The words below are from Creighton Demeresk. His post and illustrative diagrams can be see at: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/topic_view,threads/p,365939/t,282258/ go with the .028" wire and/or 0.032" buy from any Racers Supply on line Safety Wiring Techniques Safety wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling onto the track and causing damage to another bike or rider. It never hurts to safety wire any critical part of your bike, such as controls, beyond the requirements in the rulebook. Now that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how to do it. First, go out and get the following items: Safety wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must. A can of stainless steel safety wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028" and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety wire is available at most motorcycle shops. A variable speed drill and a dozen 1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few 3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling. How to drill Except for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a drill bit when it gets dull. Most bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through. These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure. Hexagonal nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process. The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8 inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way through the corner. Allen head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt easier. How to wire Once you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly. Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an insurance procedure. When wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item. A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut. The figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and tight. Always discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it doesn't protrude and create a hazard. This figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump. If your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object. Another area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can use the spring loaded clips that come stock on most bikes, or use small hose clamps. If you use safety wire, be careful because you can cut through the hose by using too much tension. Small zip ties will also work. Water lines are usually clamped with standard hose clamps. One precaution you can take is to thread same safety wire through the slot on the screw of the clamp, then attach the wire to the clamp. This will keep the hose clamp from loosening. Rear Suspension The car needs supported some place other than the usual place on the subframe. I run a 4x4 across the car in front of what BMW calls the Push Rod (these are the bars that connect the sub-frame to the body) and set that 4x4s on jack stands. Disconnect the flexible brake lines and curse the nastiness of brake fluid that goes everywhere but in the pan. Disconnect the emergency brake cables, shocks, differential support bracket, two large nuts that connect the suspension to the body, support bars and the driveshaft. You may find disconnecting the shocks easier from the trunk. On most shocks there is a allen socket in the top of the shock, you can place a box end wrench around the nut on the top of the shock, hold the shock securely with the allen wrench and loosen the 17mm (guessing) nut on top of the shock, that is usually a nyloc nut. Disconnect the drive shaft with a friend. Engage the parking brake, break loose one of the nuts on the drive shaft at the differential. Have your friend release the brake, rotate the shaft, engage the brake, break loose the next nut, so on and so on. By the way, after you have done this once, you will find a way to put a set of flex head gear wrenches in your tool box. Working these nuts is worth the price of these wrenches. Lowering the suspension justs involves placing a floor jack under the differential and lowering it slowly while balancing everything. The spring will just fall out as you lower the suspension. Going at it this way allows you to refresh the brake fluid and the flexible brake lines. Tired rear suspensions look like this. Again, this parts list is old, one I got from Paul Wegweiser years ago. Part numbers need verified, seems like BMW changes them often. 33 33 1 103 926 rear sub-frame mounts (up to 1974) 33 33 1 113 342 left rear sub-frame mount (1974 on) 33 33 1 113 343 right rear sub-frame mount (1974 on) 33 17 1 104 266 diff bushing inserts only 33 32 9 061 945 trailing arm bushing set (4 bushings total) As a note, install the end of the flex line that attaches to the bottom of the car first, even before the sub-frame is placed. For some reason BMW placed that connection just above the rear sub-frame and it is difficult to get to once the sub-frame is in place. Inside the sub-frame is a captive nut like thing that holds the hex head thing on the flexible brake line. Sway Bar Link Bushes As with the front sway bar link bushings, these are pretty straight forward. Just decide on what you want, stock, urethane or teflon. Teflon Urethane Bearings and Races Even though replacing the bearing races and seals are not covered in this post, one method of pulling the hubs is shown along with the spacers inside the rear hubs. Trailing Arm Bushings Removing the trailing arm bushing is accomplished in several ways. One way is to stink up the place and burn the rubber out and then remove the steel sleeve. The way shown here is using a BMW bushing removal tool. A homemade tool with PVC, washers and all thread works too. Once you know how to use the tool to remove and insert the bushes, it is an easy process. Oldest son using a bearing and race set to set the races/bearings Upper Shock Bushings Not a big deal to replace these. Just find a way to remove the old ones, prising with a screw driver works, them just lubricate with your favorite soap or glycerin and push them in from the top. Rear Carrier Bushings The rear carrier bushings come in a "bolt-on" unit. To replace, just unbolt the old unit and re-bolt the new unit on. Just be aware, the units for round and square light cars are different. Note: Insert the bolts in the bushing unit then insert the bolts through the sub-frame. The bolts can not be inserted if you place the bushing unit flush against the sub-frame. Nobbs go up! The rear carrier is different for earlier and later cars, be careful ordering parts. The rear carrier bushes can not be flipped on early cars. Differential Carrier Bushings BMW used to offer the carrier and the bushings as one unit, now they only offer the bushings. To replace these, I had them pressed out and the new ones pressed in with a press. Rear - After

Using this Google spreadsheet developed by Grice Mulligan, AKA williamggruff, users and abusers alike can investigate the outcomes of matching various BMW transmissions and differentials, and calculate a variety of RPM and speed values that result. Inputs are simple: Tire circumference and Redline RPM. Tire circumference can be estimated using the link provided. Redline RPM can be a target RPM, such as a preferred RPM at a cruising speed. BMW transmission gear ratios and differential final gear ratios.xls

Written by Zenon Friday, 24 March 2006 There seems to be a lot of confusion around coils and resistors so here is my attempt to clarify. compiled from so i am upgrading to pertronix..... and other sources The original stock "black" Bosch coil, with an external resistor, is actually a great setup - superior to a "Blue" coil and equivalent to a "Red". I have seen the specs from Bosch that prove it but cannot find them now. You can trust me, though. ;-) With a Pertronix, you have to run the resistor with either the stock or red coil but must bypass the resistor with a "blue" coil. If you run without a resistor with a coil that requires one, you run the risk of frying the Pertronix because it may not be able to handle the higher current draw. You can also overheat the coil itself. If you use a resistor with a blue coil, you'll get much weaker sparks but your points will last longer. There seems to be a lot of confusion around coils and resistors so here is my attempt to clarify. Why did BMW use an external-ballast-resistor coil, anyway? On all North American '02s (at least from '72-on), BMW fitted the "heavy duty" ignition system that was apparently an option for carby '02s in other markets and standard on tiis and turbo. According to the factory specs and part numbers, the tii and carby external-resistor coils are the exact same part. Essentially, the "external resistor" coil is just a coil that is designed to work properly when supplied with about 9 volts. It is then used with the external ballast resistor so it can safely operate continuously when supplied with the usual 13-14V available when the engine is running. Since a coil's current draw is directly related to the amount of spark energy it might deliver, more current is naturally better except that a coil's current has to be limited to an amount that would not make it overheat in continuous use and/or burn out the points prematurely. But why bother with the external resistor? For normal running, it would be electrically equivalent, cheaper, and more reliable to use a coil designed for the actual system supply voltage and ditch the resistor entirely. The answer is that the whole point of the external resistor setup is to be able to maintain or even boost spark energy during starting, when the system voltage is often pulled way down (under 10V with a marginal battery) by the starter motor and the sometimes very uneven, way rich or lean mixtures are much harder to ignite. By using a coil designed for a lower supply voltage, the designers could then essentially "over-drive" the coil during starting by bypassing the ballast resistor and feeding the coil directly with whatever the battery had to offer. But because the resistor is only bypassed during cranking, the coil would not have much chance to overheat and the points life would not be too adversly affected by a few seconds here and there of switching the much higher current. On earlier '02s with a ceramic-block ballast resistor, there is a relay near the firewall that does the bypassing based on a signal from the circuit that energizes the starter solenoid. On '74 and later, they simplified the design and eliminated the relay, instead supplying battery voltage directly to the coil via a second, smaller spade terminal on the starter solenoid (which is itself a relay anyway). Also on '74 and later, the obvious ceramic resistor was replaced by a sneaky, "special" resistance wire that runs in the harness from somewhere over the engine to the coil's positive terminal - it has clear insualtion and a moulded marker at the coil end with the resistance value on it (by now those are usually just a blob of crispy rubber). All resistors for all years were 1.8ohms, according to the factory manual. Just had a quick look at my manual again and noticed some damn footnotes beside the coil and resistor specs. Seems earlier actually had 0.9ohm resistors but I cannot tell when the cutoff was. If so, that also means the coils were probably different. I still stand by my contention that the stock ignition system with an external resistor coil is the equal of a "red" coil. The only thing is that if you add a red coil or a later "stock" coil to an early car with a 0.9ohm resistor, you will have to replace it with a 1.8ohm or add 0.9ohm. Some final notes: If you run a blue coil and do not bypass the ballast resistor, you will only get full power when starting and much less spark energy when running. A blue coil is actually a downgrade from stock since there is no more "boost" ability during cranking. But, on a well tuned car with a good battery, it may never matter. As mentioned above, if you run a stock or red coil without the resistor, you run the risk of overheating the coil, burning out your pertronix, or going through a lot of points. I have heard some people say red coils work just fine without resistors but I have a hunch they have later cars that have the sneaky resitor wire and they are running them correctly without realizing it. Other aftermarket coils? I dunno - you have to look at each one's specs. You have to be sure the coil you use will not draw too much current for the ignition system you have - points, pertronix, or crane. If you add a resistor, make sure you are not inadvertantly adding it to the stock one or disabling the starting boost feature - it could make all the difference one cold day. regards, Zenon Aaron Heinrich Asks Out of curiosity, what specs on the coil do you look at to determine what is "superior"? If we know what the specs on the stock, blue and red coils are, we should be able to get the pertinent information on aftermarket coils to make an educated decision, presumably. Zenon replies The most useful performance spec would be "total energy" or "energy storage", basically a measurement in Joules or Watt/seconds. The most commonly seen specs are maximum spark voltage and primary resistance. Max spark voltage can be misleading since you can have high voltage with no current and thus no energy behind it (the actual spark voltage is determined mainly by the plug gap, anyway). Primary DC resistance is just an indirect way of getting at the primary current draw but seems to be what is most easily measured and thus is most often stated. The actual current draw in use is dependent on the inductance of the coil, but nobody knows what to do with that. Primary current draw is usually proportional to energy storage so you can maybe use that for comparison, but a bad coil design could draw a lot of current and not make much spark, too. from the archives Bosch lists four types of coils for induction type ignition systems Type E(Black)6V-12V systems for 4 cylinder engines. No resistor needed. Output 13.5 KV. This was the type commonly found on small 4 cylinder engines i.e. Volkswagen, etc. Type K(Blue)6V-12V systems for up to 6 cylinder engines. No resistor needed. Output 17.5KV. This was the type commonly found on 6 cyl VW and as a performance upgrade for 6V systems and lower power 12V systems. Should never be used on BMWs. Type KW(Black) 12V-24V systems for up to 6 cylinder engines. Output 22.5KV. For 12V operation use ballast resistor 0.6-1.0 ohms, for 24V operation use ballast resistor 4.5 ohms. This is the coil that came standard on all BMW engines. As you can see going to a Blue coil would be a significant step backwards. Type KW(Red) 12V systems for up to 8 cylinder engines. Output 26.5KV. Use with 1.4-1.8 ohm ballast resistor. If the ballast resistor is omitted, the points will burn up very quickly. If a transistor trigger is used, then a ballast resistor is not required. When a resistor is required, it should be placed in series with the igniton hot (12V) lead. It should be mounted with a heat sink since it will get quite hot. All induction coils actually contain two wire coils, a primary and a secondary. The primary coil contains a few hundred turns of thick copper wire. Since the wire diameter is large and the wire is short, the ohm reading is very low 0.8-1.4 ohms and the coil will conduct a substantial amount of current to the points. Current flow to the points is a function of voltage, coil wire resistance and points closed dwell time. More than about 4 amps will usually destroy a set of points. The secondary coil contains 15000-30000 turns of very thin copper wire. Since the wire is thin and very long, the resistance is high, usually about 12-18KOhms. Thats a thousand times more than the primary side. While the secondary coil does not flow high current, it does produce a very high stepped-up voltage necessary to jump gaps in the cap and spark plug gap. Hopefully, this will settle the discussion regarding coils. For those who would like to know a great deal more about induction ignition systems, the best text is a training phamplet by Bosch called: "Battery ignition systems" part number VDT-UBE 120/3 En. It covers not only point type ignition but also transistor and CDI type ignitions. After reading the text throughly, you'll agree most information about ignitions is mere marketing hype. Zenon replies The difference between the red and OE coils is probably pretty small in practice since the actual firing voltage when things are working right is under 15Kv, IIRC - I'd put the money elsewhere if my stock coil was otherwise OK. Too bad there is no info on the actual energy storage of the various coils. Even the blue coil might not be as bad as it seems. It looks like the OE coil was essentially the "red" for the last years, at least according to the BMW blue 2002 manual I have. I think there should be a caveat on the statement "[for the red coil] If a transistor trigger is used, then a ballast resistor is not required". I am pretty sure that applies only to the external Bosch ignitor modules (like what came on an e21 320i) but NOT ones like Pertronix. Bosch ignitors are internally current-limited (or just have a beefier switching transistor) where Pertronix ignitors are not able to handle the higher current. At least, the OE and red coils have primary resistances that are lower than Pertronix's minimum spec. so one would be risking it to run an OE or red coil without a resistor. In contrast, I know that some of the Bosch ignitor modules are smarter than that and feature constant, optimized dwell time and will even shut off the coil current after a few seconds if the ignition is on but the engine is not actually running (thus not overheating the coil or themselves). Hey Zenon, Just wanted to personally thank you - without your post I doubt my car would be running today. Andreas

It is hard to believe that it is 02/02/0224. Because of all your help, we have survived for the last twenty two years and seem to be striving somewhat. Sometimes things are tough, but ingenuity keeps this site and our cars going strong. We are a couple of years older than Facebook and 8 years older than Instagram. We might not be as big, but that was my stupid idea to start a site that, at most, could bring together the owners of only about 350000 cars. Keep them going, and enjoy the ride! I sure do. To celebrate our twenty second revolution around the sun, I am setting the price for all T-Shirts to $22. Enjoy! And I added a new design, Racing Through the Streets. Steve K. You can find all our T-shirts at our Store Or pick them here

I've used the whole afternoon trying to restore my vent window mechanism. As you all know, the unit is sealed and generally replaced with an alternative working mechanism when it stops working or become harder and harder to turn. I had 6 pairs of these in my spare part stash so decided to pickup the worst and try to refurbish it. This method worked for me and made the mechanism movement feel like new. You're welcome to follow this process if you decide to refurbish your window vent mechanism. Please ensure you clean the unit from any dust, oil or rubbish before this overhaul. Here it goes: 1) So the unit is sealed. The main housing is made of aluminum so you cant just pry it trying to remove the sealed cap, it will brake the housing (trust me, I wasted 2 units already!). Grab a small flat head screwdriver and a small hammer. Gently tap the aluminum edge around the sealed cap to widen the edge. Be gentle or it will crack. 2) Try distributing the pressure evenly. Once the edge is wide enough, use a screwdriver to pup the cap off. (Note where I use the screwdriver, its the strongest point) 3) Once the cap is off, use a small screwdriver or a nail and patiently pick all dried out grease. I used a brake cleaner (spray can) to get rid of old stubborn grease. It wont leave any residue since it will all evaporate almost immediately. You don't have to do this. You could just clean by picking what you see. 4) I used a heavy duty, water resistant, long lasting general purpose grease with extreme temperature rating (non petroleum). The vent mechanism is very similar to steering box mechanism. Apply moderate amount of grease and push it in between the gears then move gears back and forth using the knob. 5) There is a small grease pan under the horizontal gear shaft. Repeat step 4 until you see grease coming out of the top of horizontal gear shaft. This means the bottom grease pan is full. (Try not to over fill). The vertical gear shaft has a small play (moves up and down by 1mm). Using your small flat head screwdriver, try getting some grease under the vertical gear shaft by pushing the other end of the shaft from outside of the housing. This will help smoothing the movement. 6) The vertical gear shaft is supported by a small tension bar from outside where the vent window frame is inserted. Remove the holding screw and tension bar, use small amount of grease on the inside of the tension bar and reinstall (do not over tighten the screw). 7) Now put the cap back on and gently tap the edges inward with a hammer. You're Done! Now, when I finished doing this, I noticed a small amount of grease under the vent mechanism housing where the horizontal shaft is. Looked closely and noticed there is a small hole possibly made for inserting grease occasionally or in major service intervals. But you need to clean out the dead grease before using this grease hole. Most currently available used vent mechanisms have dried out grease and in need of complete clean out anyway and you wont need another overhaul anytime soon! I hope this process is useful to any member. Cheers

Yesterday I did one of the most fun and rewarding little projects recently on our 1973 tii. The two lower passenger door "chrome" strips were pretty beaten up with a peeling finish and bare spots. We acquired a roll of Blick Metallic Film Tape Silver a few months ago, and I procrastinated on trying it out for several reasons. Most importantly, our car is very original, and I didn't want to do anything to detract from that. I checked with Maximilian and W&N to see if anyone had a replacement piece, but not really. You probably know the trim is plastic and "chrome" plated with flash plating, like many plastic car parts. W&N does have excellent new door panels in our color - marine blue, but they are pretty pricy, and I wanted to keep the originals if possible. I was hoping someone might make just the replacement strips in polished actual metal, but I did not find them. So I decided to give the tape a try. I think it worked great. It's not 100% perfect, but only a real detail nerd can tell the difference from new. There is one small bump midway on the lower one. I may redo it but I thought I would wait a bit to see how it holds up. This was so easy to do. Doing it again is not a problem. Note: getting a good fit with the door panel removed and lying flat on a bench would be even easier. I did it on the car, which had the added challenge of getting my eyes and hands in the right spot to see well enough to get a good fit. Here's what else I learned. The original "chrome" on our car was peeling, and I tried to clean it up a bit before putting tape over it so that the new tape would not telegraph the old surface below. I peeled at some loose edges with tweezers, and it just kept peeling. When I applied my first piece of new tape as a test run, it stuck to the old "chrome," I could immediately see the old "chrome" was not well adhered, barely at all. It all came off with just a gentle pull on the new tape. Of course, I wasted some of my fancy new metallic tape, but seeing how easily and thoroughly the old "chrome" could be removed was worth it. It all just came right off. I cleaned up the substrate plastic strip with a touch of mineral spirits. Next surprise, the tape we bought is precisely the correct width to cover the strips. I did trim the first one a tiny bit with an exacto knife, where I put it on a bit crooked, so there was no overlapping onto the blue vinyl. The recess between the strips and the upholstery is pretty forgiving on alignment. So on the second strip, I had a better fit, and no trimming was required, although you do have to trim the ends. I carefully cut it on the car around the round ends. I was being careful not to cut into vinyl upholstery. I was concerned that the ends would not be tidy and round enough. They are pretty good. There is a little bit of wrinkling of the tape where it tries to meet the hemispherical end of the strip, but I think it is acceptable. Certainly better than what we had before. If your door panel trims are peeling and messy, I highly recommend this easy and rewarding upgrade.

Where do i get the kit The Warm-Up Regulator kit is now available for pre-order at the 2002 FAQ Store. We expect the new batch to be shipped later this summer What is a Warm Up Regulator, and how does it work? The Warm Up Regulator (WUR), Warm Up Runner, or Warm Up Transmitter (depending on which BMW document you read) is an add-on device mounted to the back of the Kugelfischer petrol injection pump. Its purpose is to control the enrichment of injection pulses and supply additional ‘fast idle’ air into the plenum chamber during the warm-up phase after engine start. It progressively does this, slowly reducing enrichment and additional airflow in response to rising coolant temperature. The WUR is based around a wax actuator, a capsule of paraffin wax sealed by a rubber diaphragm - this pushes a steel rod, the ‘moving end’ of the actuator. The actuator is mounted in a coolant loop to react to engine temperature. As the wax warms & melts, there is a volume change, pushing the diaphragm & steel rod with quite a significant force (80+ Newtons). This movement is somewhat linear in the range of -20C to +100C, about 15mm in total. Above is a cross-sectional diagram of the WUR. The wax actuator is on the lower left, immersed in the coolant that flows through one end of the WUR. The WUR Rod pushes a spring-loaded rod…the central body of the WUR is part of the air circuit for the ‘fast-idle’ with the Air Cone and Collar to meter the air, and on the top of the WUR is a ‘top-hat’ nut which pushes the Kugelfischer pump enrichment lever (dotted line section) to adjust the fuel injection volume. Checking the Correct Operation of WUR To check the correct function of the WUR, warm the engine to full operating temperature. Then check: X: Distance ‘A’ should be 9-10mm minimum. Y: Distance ‘B’ should be 4mm Z: ‘Verboten screw’ (1) should be in contact with stop (2) If X cannot be obtained, the WUR is either mechanically jammed or the wax element is defective (WUR needs repair). If X is OK and Y is not reached, WUR is likely good and needs top-hat washer adjustment. If X & Y are OK, but Z is not obtained, check if the enrichment lever return spring is in place and the lubrication of the lever pivot point. Preparing for Repair of WUR In addition to this info sheet, ensure you have access to the BMW North America Service Training Guide for the Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection system, published in February 1980. What's in the kit? The Kit is available at the 2002 FAQ Store. It contains FIVE parts: A New Wax Actuator A New Water Seal ‘O’Ring An Air Regulating Cone Retainer Plate A Pin Wrench A 2mm Allen key The wrench is included because removing the collar without damage is critical to rebuilding. The inner diameter must not get deformed or damaged. Because the collar is steel and the WUR body is Aluminium, the parts are highly likely to be corroded together. The wrench is there to ease the collar from the alloy housing gently. The Air Regulating Cone Retainer Plate is needed to calibrate the WUR (cone height at reference temperature) before the restored unit is re-fitted to the pump & engine. It can also be used to set the top-hat washer position (enrichment) once the WUR is installed. The other tools needed to perform the repair are your standard screwdrivers, sockets, and spanners - the only slightly special tool you'll need is a 2mm Allen key - now included in the kit, which is used to release the grub screw in the Air regulating Cone. WUR Differences Over the Years. To the best of my knowledge, all tii WURs are functionally identical, but there were some differences at the start & end of the tii production. Early WURs have a large locknut helping to secure the collar, as can be seen in this photo from the BMW WSM: Then, late in the production run, there was a change in the Kugelfischer pump lever, and a spring was added on top of the cone. To the best of my knowledge, these changes do not alter the basic function & features of the WUR and the compatibility of this kit. It is suitable for all 2002tii injection pumps: 1969-1971 BMW 2000 tii : PLO4-124.01 (A-1 & A-2) #92 004 010 1971 BMW 2002 tii : PLO4-124.01 (B-1) #92 004 011 1972-1973 2002 tii : PLO4-124.01 (C-1) #92 004 012 1974 2002 tii (USA) : PLO4-124.02 (A-1) #94 004 020 Additional Parts Required Depending on the condition of your system, there are two parts NOT included in this kit that you may wish to exchange during the WUR overhaul. They are the ‘ball cup’ and ‘covering cap’ that locate & protect the intermediate shaft at its pivot-point on the WUR: These parts are available from normal ‘02 specialists: Ball Cup BMW 13511256078 Covering Cap BMW 13511257374 [It now seems this part NLA. Many cars have been operating for years without this part, so you may ignore it... or you could DIY a small rubber cup of around 13 mm/half-inch internal diameter from a hardware store - chair leg foot, etc] The cap & cover don’t affect the WUR’s primary cold-start function. Still, as a secondary function, the body of the WUR is used as the pivot point for the intermediate throttle shaft, and there should be no play in that pivot - the cup is a critical bearing for the shaft, and the cover protects this pivot from debris. Maybe your current cup & cover are in good condition, or maybe it’s time to replace them. You decide. Preparation for Removing the WUR. Since the WUR performs that additional mechanical function in the tii setup (the pivot point for the intermediate shaft that actuates both the Kugelfischer throttle lever and the throttle body), when the WUR is removed, the intermediate shaft must be moved, and this risks disturbance of all the settings of your tii. The BMW North America Service Training Guide (Blue Book, link above) provides a thorough guide for resetting this linkage to factory specs - that's one way to proceed. However, if you are concerned about the unknown territory of a full factory reset, then below I suggest some checks & measurements to take before starting disassembly that will enable you to reassemble the linkage ‘back like it was’ even if that's different from what the ‘Blue Book’ says. Use a 5mm rod/hook to lock the Kugelfischer Pump throttle lever in its idle position. Open the top of the ‘tuna can’ on the throttle body, & observe the position of the ‘D Cam’ relative to the 4mm hole: If the idle screw (1) is touching the ‘D cam’, count the turns to unscrew it until its not touching the ‘D cam’ (Write down how many turns). Photograph the position of the ‘D Cam’ from a point looking straight down at the 4mm hole (B) After reassembly, we will try to set the “D Cam’ in the same position and set the idle screw in the same place. Removing the WUR Disconnect & remove the battery. Remove the whole air cleaner assembly. Drain the coolant. Prepare a catch-tray, disconnect both coolant hoses from the WUR (3&4 below), and expect some coolant to be lost into the tray. Disconnect the auxiliary air hose (6, above), take care not to damage this critical hose. Disconnect the return spring (1, below) and unscrew bolts 2,3,4 & 5: Bolt No. 3 has a nut on the back that will spin easily, use a long screwdriver to jam the nut so that the bolt can be loosened, and catch the nut with a magnet. Insert a flat-bladed screwdriver between the WUR body & the back of the Kugelfischer Pump, lever the WUR backward off a locating sleeve, and then downwards to separate the throttle linkage pivot. Manipulate the WUR to separate the threaded rod/tophat washer from the Kugelfischer pump enrichment lever, and withdraw the WUR from the car. Locate the plastic ball cup from the pivot point of the WUR. Keep it safe if you plan to reuse it. (it may be in the pivot or at the end of the throttle shaft). Check the rubber ‘Covering Cap’ that should be dangling on the throttle intermediate shaft. Keep it safe if you plan to reuse it. Dismantling the WUR Remove the locknut and top-hat washer. Engage the supplied pin wrench fully into the collar, unscrew, and remove the collar. The spring and threaded rod will pop out as the collar is freed. If the collar is stuck, use heat & penetrating oil to persuade it to break free from the alloy body. Be careful not to damage/deform the collar (e.g., do not use a hammer & punch), as the inner diameter of the collar is critical to the WUR function. Withdraw the spacer tube - this slides in a simple keyway on all but the earliest examples of the WUR (on early cars, this spacer is free to rotate). Next, there is a flat washer and an ‘O’Ring that retain the brass actuator, the ‘O’Ring may have solidified, and you will need to scrape it out with a screwdriver. Don’t pull the rod straight up, as it will come out of the old actuator, making it more difficult to remove the brass body. Instead, push the rod side to side to break the brass body away from the alloy tube. Finally, withdraw the brass actuator. Clean the alloy body, and check for leaks in the bottom chamber. It can be welded or even epoxied to effect a repair (its only purpose is to circulate coolant around the brass actuator). De-rust the cone, collar, and threaded rod. Loosen the 2mm grub screw that clamps the cone to the threaded central rod, leave the grub screw in the cone with its head flush with the cone surface (so it will still slide thru the collar), and check the cone will turn on the threaded rod - screw the cone ‘up’ the threaded rod by about 10mm - this cone/rod adjustment will be used in calibration later. Rebuilding the WUR Once the WUR body is clean, the reassembly with the new parts is straightforward: Insert the new wax actuator into the WUR body. Drop the supplied ‘O’Ring over the actuator shaft (if there's any corrosion inside the WUR body, some sealant on the ‘O’Ring may help ensure a watertight seal) Drop the plain washer over the actuator shaft. With the ‘key’ indentation at the top, guide the spacer into the WUR body. (on early cars, there is no ‘key’ to orientate the spacer - in this case, align the hole in the spacer with the air outlet on the side of the WUR - then use a wooden dowel pushed into the air outlet to stop the spacer rotating during rest of this assembly sequence) Place the cup end of the threaded rod over the head of the actuator shaft. Locate the spring on the rim of the cup on the threaded rod. Lightly grease the collar - both externally threaded and inner plain surfaces. Push the collar against spring pressure to engage in the WUR body thread, and tighten the collar using a pin wrench until it is solid against the internal spacer. (remove the wooden alignment dowel if fitted in 4, above) Perform calibration of cone height (see below) Loosely install top-hat washer & locknut. Calibration of the WUR To calibrate the WUR we must set the height of the cone at the reference temperature of 30°C. Prepare a bowl of water at 30°C, it should be big enough for the lower ~50mm of WUR body to be immersed. Check and correct the temperature regularly. Immerse the lower part of the WUR, expelling air from the WUR chamber as best you can. [Don't dump the whole thing in the water, only the bottom half] Allow the WUR to stabilize at this temperature. To calibrate, the cone must be raised/lowered on the threaded shaft so that the Air Regulating Cone Retainer Plate can be inserted flush with the surface of the collar. Hold the flats on the top of the threaded rod & turn the cone to adjust the cone height. It should be possible to remove & re-insert the Air Regulating Cone Retainer Plate (ARCRP) without force on either the plate or the cone - In other words, the ARCRP is not holding the cone against the spring pressure - the cone's 'natural height' should mean the ARCRP slips in and out easily) Once this is achieved, add hot water to the bowl to raise the temperature to ~60°C so that the cone extends to reveal the cone grub screw - tighten the 2mm grub screw to lock the cone on the threaded shaft & fix the calibration. Installing the WUR Refit the plastic ‘Ball Cup’ to the pivot & apply some grease to the plastic cup. Push the Covering Cap (if fitted) onto the intermediate throttle shaft. Manipulate the WUR to engage the threaded shaft/tophat with the Kugelfischer pump enrichment lever, then the throttle shaft into the ball cup pivot & finally to locate on the back of the pump. Replace four bolts that secure the WUR. Refit the auxiliary air hose. Refit coolant pipes Ensure the enrichment lever return spring is in-place (either on a bracket close to the verboten screw or between the cone and the lever on later cars). Adjust Top-Hat Washer: Pull/lever the threaded shaft up against spring pressure until the Air Regulating Cone Retainer Plate can be inserted. Adjust the height of the top-hat washer until the gap A is 2.6 +/- 0.3mm. (DO NOT adjust the ‘verboten screw’ to set this gap!) Lock the position of the top hat with the locknut. Refit the air cleaner, refit and connect the battery, and refill the coolant. Go through the full adjustment procedure in the “Blue Book’ (page 12 onwards) -or- Repeat/review items 1-4 above, loosening the clamp bolts on the intermediate shaft to move the D cam position to be the same as before, and then reset the idle screw. You’ll probably need to fine-tune idle and mixture using the ‘tuna can’ adjustments. Start the engine & go through the warm-up cycle. Check X,Y,Z at the start of this document. All done, good for another 50 years!

I had seen this idea mentioned somewhere but never saw anyone try it. It works! So the 50 year old hard and crunchy gummihaar seat pads in our cars just turn to brown dust and slowly disappear. While new FRONT seat backs and bottoms are available ($$$) we have not had rear seat ones forever. Working off the knowledge that other manufacturers also used the product opens up new possibilities. So the vintage VW folks have gummihaar pads available and at a reasonable cost — hummm… Working on the WolfsburgWest.com site the best match by size are rear seat pads for a’56-’64 sedan. They were (April 2021) $44 each and shipping was $32. Here is what I got: 113885775B PAD/R BKRST, 56-64 SEDAN, VW Qty 1 113885375B PAD/R/BOT, 56-64 SEDAN, VW Qty 1 I never could get a measurement on the thickness but they are almost identical to our ’02 ones! The edges need to ‘wrap” around the metal seat frame and these do. So what isn’t perfect? Let’s start with the seat bottom. And this is where the title for this article comes in. The VW part is an inch wider than we need and the depth is one inch shorter. Also the edge shape at the back corners is a little different. How about keeping the back edge of the old part (it is under the seat back anyway) and we can get our missing inch of depth back. Then for the front section we take an inch out of the middle. I used very heavy scissors and cut the gummihaar along my marked lines - not fun. Re-assembling our “Frankenhaar” with upholstery thread or monofilament line stitching we get this new bottom cushion! Halfway there. While the VW seat bottom is a good match, the seat back in the ’02 is a moulded marvel that is anything but straight or flat. After puzzling over it a couple of days I just couldn’t put that crunchy seat back pad back in the car. So the idea is new padding is for where you sit, right? Bingo, I’ll just replace the contact area with new material and preserve the shaped area I have. The 15” square donor sections look like this: Same exercise… use thread/line to make big loop stitches holding them together. Spongy and soft where two people can sit back there! My new covers came with a layer of foam stitched to the material so I didn’t add anything else over the gummihaar. Reattached the cover to the pointy tabs and then some additional hog ring work and done! Given the front seats get more use and have more “shape” in them, I didn’t explore the VW donor route and just gave my German friends at WN some business. I hope this gives you some ideas and may answer an old question you may have had like me… “I wonder if those cheap VW pads could work?” Cheers!

I start by saying always liked "stock look” under the hood and never cared for appearance of Weber 32/36 air filter on my 76 ’02. On the technical side, Weber set up is such that air drawn into intake manifold is always warm/hot (from engine compartment surroundings). So it is opposite of air induction system was originally designed for base model. On original setup for most parts selection of warm and/ or cold air determined by air regulator housing. The original system always let outside ambient temperature air to intake, which it is believed to make engine run smoother and better fuel efficient. Stock air cleaner and weber carburetor Integration has been discussed on this forum previously and there are lots of good information how to do this, but did not find much information on purpose of air regulator box, heat shield over exhaust manifold. So I had to learn about each component as I was acquiring them and at the end found system design quit simple and efficient. So it was learning experience and then I thought why not write article about it. Procedure is written for a 1976 model year car, which I think will be very similar for earlier model years as well, but don’t know that for sure. As I mentioned before I did not have any of original components so I had to place add on this forum under “Part Wanted” section and thanks to members that helped for me to acquire needed parts. After several search and reading up on this topic it appeared that there are at least two methods to accomplish this job if not more; one is to use an adaptor between air filter housing and carburetor; Second option is to not use an adaptor. I don’t know pros and cons of one system to another, but as I recall If none adapter version is decided then a fabricated closed-cell foam gasket should be installed between air cleaner and carburetor. Below pictures (not mine) for none adaptor version for reference. In my case I opted to go with an adaptor version. Here are photos of components that were needed; JAM air cleaner adapter Picture (13/36) Picture (13/39) Fabrication and Installation: Turn-over air filter housing, remove rubber seal and slide the adapter over the air cleaner flange Trace JAM adapter inside and three mounting holes onto air cleaner Remove adapter then remove excess material by various tools (i.e. tinsnip pliers, dremel tool) Drill previously marked holes with ¼” drill bit May want to prime/ paint modified area to prevent future rust Disconnect cable from battery negative post as a precaution Remove Weber air filter assembly including filter base plate, four screws and breather hose Fasten two brackets to intake manifold (picture 13/39, item #1 & 8) Slide down new gasket ontop of carburator Set JAM adapter over carburetor and then place gasket on top the adapter With air cleaner over JAM adapter line up 3 mounting holes. Loosely fasten air cleaner and JAM adapter to carburetor by using M6x45 screws and flat washers supplied in JAM adapter kit. Do not tighten screw yet. Fasten air cleaner to the brackets that were previously fasten to intake manifold. Purpose of these struts are to partially support weight of air cleaner and not all air cleaner weight on carburetor alone Using piece of none braided hose connect cylinder head valve cover vent opening to air cleaner tube opening Remove air regulator box cover screw and withdraw the cover. Oil the valve pivot points and check adjustment. Replace cover and screw then install the box onto snorkel (right rear of the radiator) use rubber boot to connect air cleaner to air regulator box Set new filter in and put the cover on and close clamps Slide heat shield cover over exhaust manifold and fasten it with two M6x16 bolts along with flat and wave washers. May want to apply anti-seized compound to the bolts for ease of removal just in case later on Connect heat shield to air regulator box. Curved tube (picture 13/36, item#6) Slowly try to close hood and absorb to see if hood inside makes contact with top of air cleaner housing. I did not have any interference issue, but if it seems to be the case, you may want to consider followings for remedy; Have machine shop to shorten JAM adapter height by not more than 2mm Thickness of isolation gasket sandwiched between carburetor bottom and intake manifold opening Foam pad inside bonnet Raising bonnet slightly [*]Re-connect cable to battery negative post [*]Have someone to assist with starting the car and ensure hood and air cleaner top not making contact as revving up engine, which in this case engine wants to tilt to right hand side [*]Last but not least need to paint air cleaner so it “looks stock” but have to wait till weather warms up around here. Air Regulator Housing Adjustment With the valve lever in “Summer Position” (vertical) air is drawn only from outside the car Release lever from “summer position” for other seasons. With the valve lever in the horizontal position, air drawn in from front of the car is mixed with air heated by exhaust manifold in specific proportions by the action of bi-metallic element which is dependent upon the current engine and ambient temperatures. 1/27/2014_Rev 1

Spray castle nuts with penetrating oil several times over a course of a few days and let it to break loose surface tension rust and corrosion. Jack up and support vehicle Remove tire Remove cotter pin Replace tire and lower car to ground Apply parking brake and car in Neutral Loosen up castle nut with 36mm socket and long handlebar Jack up and support vehicle again and release parking brake Remove tire, castle nut and drum brake Heat hub for about 15 minutes. Rotate hub as your heating it. Pull off driving flange/hub with extractor Detach output shaft / CV shaft from axle shaft and tie it up Screw on castle nut with notches facing brakes, then use soft hammer to drive axle shaft out ] Outboard Inboard Pry out inboard and outboard sealing rings. From inboard side drive out outboard bearing with soft punch (brass) and hammer. Now shim ring (if any) and spacer sleeve can be removed from outboard side. Now can easily remove inboard ball bearing with punch and hammer. It is imperative that circular shim and spacer sleeve for each wheel kept separate if rear wheels bearings removal done at once. Wipe inside with paper towels and spray inside with brake cleaner. New bearings and seals Next, Pack bearings with grease and grease sealing rings lip Install inboard bearing. I used 1-1/2” dia. PVC coupling and plug to drive bearing in against bearing bore stop. Coat sleeve spacer outside with 35 grams grease and then insert sleeve to the cavity from outboard. Insert shim ring then, install outboard bearing making sure it is seating against shim Install inboard and outboard seals Insert axle shaft from inboard side all the way in Install hub/ driving flange. May need to use hammer on face of hub to seat it in Tighten castle nut with 36mm socket Replace drum brake Install tire and lug nuts Put rear wheels on ground Apply hand brake Secure front and back of rear tire with objects to prevent it from rotational movement Tighten castle nut to specified torque And for last time Jack up and support vehicle Remove tire Install cotter pin and bend tabs Replace output shaft / CV shaft to axle shaft flange Put tire back on and tighten lug nuts Lower the car and torque lug nuts to 65 ft-lb Rev. A: attach CV shaft to axle shaft flange (08/13/2015)

How to Install a Headliner in a BMW 2002 *All the typical warnings apply. Be careful. Don't cut your fingers off. Read the labels on all tools and chemicals and try not to maim yourself. If your 2002 is in need of a headliner, a professional shop can do the job for $500-1000. I've heard of people bringing their stripped car in with the parts in hand and only paying $100, but I haven't yet found that shop. So, the following is a guide to install a headliner in your 2002 in your garage. It's entirely within the ability of a moderately capable mechanic. What I'm getting at is: If I can do it, so can you. I suggest that you read through this entire guide before getting started on this XX-day job.. Gauge for yourself if you want to take it on. To begin, there is only one variation in the headliner: sunroof or no sunroof. Tools, Materials and Parts Needed Parts: 1X Headliner -Sunroof p/n 51441804085 -No Sunroof p/n 51447480140 10X Headliner Bow Grommets p/n 51447780135 Materials: Contact Cement 2X Small Cheap Paint Brushes 5X Cable Ties 1X Pack of Stick-on Cable Mounting Tabs (next to the cable ties in Home Depot or Lowes) Epoxy or JB Weld 183X 1" Binder Clips - Yes, 183 of them. I suggest buying in bulk from an office supply website A few 1/2" binder clips - Not entirely necessary, but you'll see how and where they can be helpful http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o143/clayweiland/1967 1600/100_1428.jpg Tools: Wire Cutters A Good Pair of Scissors Latex or Nitrile Gloves Exacto or Small Utility Knife Patience Relative Sobriety Day One: 1. Remove the front and rear windshield - Remove the lockstrips and gently push the windshields out. this might be a good time to consider new seals and lockstrips, if they're old. ***EDIT: Once you remove pull handles, visors, etc. put their mounting screws back in and install the headliner over them. This will make locating them MUCH easier later. 2. Remove the rear side windows. 3. Pull the window and door seals out of their tracks. You can leave the bottom half in. You'll notice that the door seals are glued in below the beltline. As far as I can tell, BMW designed them this way so that you can replace the headliner without having to buy new door seals. 4. Remove the handles, sun visors, dome light and the rearview mirror. Take note of their positions for installation later. 5. Remove the existing headliner. It's held up with glue along the edges and five bows that span the underside of the roof. Be careful not to bend the bows too much. For the non-sunroof models, there is a cardboard piece along the top of the rear window. The headliner attaches to this ans the gap between it and the roof creates a vent for positive air pressure in the cabin to escape; in the sunroof models, it attaches to the window edge. If your cardboard is damaged, find or make a replacement. 6. Install whatever soundproofing you may have had in mind. You don't really need it; BMW didn't use any. But hey, who doesn't like upgrade overkill? Optional but recommended step: Bow Retainers The headliner bows have the ability to swing down and sag the headliner if everything isn't perfectly installed. Mounting tabs to the roof allows the securing of the bows. This makes pulling the headliner tight a lot easier and ensures that the bows won't sag. In short, do it. 7. Peel the sticky backing off five of the plastic mounting tabs. You'll be using a better glue than the weak adhesive backing. 8. Install the grommets and the bows without the headliner. 9. Mix up the epoxy and glue a single mounting tab directly above the middle of each bow. 10. Remove the bows and leave the tabs to cure overnight. Day 2: The Quickening 1. Put on the gloves. Keep changing them if they get dirty. The headliner is off-white cloth, so it will pick up dirt with ease. Unlike the rest of your 2002, the headliner is not easily cleaned. 2. Lay out the headliner and slip the bows into the loops. 3. Measure the bows and the headliner to center them in the loops. Cut the loops to expose the ends of the bows. You'll see later how you'll need to cut the the loops further, but just cut enough to expose the ends for now. 4. Insert the middlemost bow, with the headliner hanging from it, into the grommets and mounting holes. 5. Make a tiny slit with the utility knife just below the mounting tab. 6. Slip a cable tie through the slit and through the mounting tab. Tighten the tie to a loose loop. This is not a mounting point. This tie is meant only to limit the rotation of the bow. 7. Repeat steps 4-6 for the rest of the bows. **You are now going to stretch the headliner into place. DO NOT USE GLUE DURING THIS STEP.** 8. Get out your stash of binder clips and start clipping the headliner WITHOUT GLUE along the top of the rear window cardboard piece. Start at the center and place a clip every six inches or so. Make your way along each side, moving from the center, down each of the C-pillars (the rear roof supports). 9. Next, move to the front. Stretch the headliner forward and clip every six inches or so, starting from the center. Don't pull everything too tight; incremental progression is the key. 10. Clip the door and window edges along each side. 11. Where you are clipping to curves, you'll need to cut slits perpendicular to the mounting edge. Start the cuts one per curve, understanding that minor adjustments will be made. Be careful not to cut too far. Cut short if need be; you can always cut more later. 12. Continue adding more clips; go for one every 3 inches, all the way around, making minor stretching adjustments to take the wrinkles out. 13. When it comes to the places just below where the headliner bows meet the edges, the loops will create undesirable "tents". You need to further cut the loops some more from above the headliner. You can carefully use the knife or carefully pull the headliner to tear the existing cuts. Either way, go incrementally so that you can work out the wrinkles. 14. For the non-sunroof models, at the top corners where the cardboard ends, carefully cut the headliner to transfer from the cardboard to the C-pillar edge. *Note that I glued some green foam to the C-pillar to go under the headliner. This isn't necessary, but I thought it created a nice, smooth detail. 15. Continue clipping and incrementally stretching until the clips are side-by side, leaving no gaps. This is where you may use a few,smaller clips in tight edges. Be sure to have all of the wrinkles worked out before moving forward. TAKE YOUR TIME. You want the headliner to be properly tight by the time you finish. **For sunroof models, you will need to cut out the sunroof section and clip throughout this section as well. I have never done one of these, but I suggest completely stretching and clipping the entire headliner before cutting the sunroof hole. When you have the entire headliner stretched and clipped, cut from the top and start at the corners, creating an “X” in the sunroof section of the headliner. Making this hole will likely create a few wrinkles; restretch and clip from the sunroof section only until everything is as smooth as it was before you cut the “X”. I would guess that this would require an extra 90-100 clips. Now to start the gluing. 1. With the contact cement and a brush ready, remove only five clips at a time. Brush the glue on both side of the edge, as well as the cloth. This is very important; gluing should be on both surfaces before re-clipping. **IMPORTANT!** The glue tends to make the headliner "swell" a little, so be prepared to make small adjustments to remove new wrinkles. Be patient and take your time. 2. Move along the windows, doing only five clips at a time. Do the rear windshield first, then the sides, and finish with the front. TAKE YOUR TIME. *For non-sunroof cars with the cardboard edge, glue the entire excess headliner onto the top of cardboard. You might need to use a screw driver to shove it in there; just make sure that you don't glue the headliner to the roof. *I used a method of flipping one arm of the binder clips up once they had been re-clipped onto a glued section. This was, I could keep track of how far I had gone. 3. Once you finish, marvel at your accomplishment and reward yourself with a beer. A and B Pillar Sections: The factory way to mate the white headliner to the pillar was to glue the headliner in first, then glue the black pillar sections over them. In the case that you a either reusing your black sections, or just don’t want to pull them up, you can carefully tuck and glue the headliner under itself. Be careful and use gloves. I folded the black part over to make a nice edge, then glued and clipped them. The B Pillar transition will be covered by the C-shaped molding, so pull it tight to get rid of the wrinkles, trim it and cover it with the moulding. You might put a little glue in there, just for good measure. Days 3&4: Wait. Resist the urge to move forward until the glue has dried. Really, don't touch it. If you remove the clips too soon, you run the risk of having the edges come undone. If that happens, you'll never get all the wrinkles back out. Be patient and find something else to do. Day 5: Unclipping Time! 1. Now that the glue has dried for a few days, remove a few of the clips and test the dryness of the glue. Due to varying temperatures and humidity levels, the glue may be completely dry or it could still be wet. Be your own judge of just how dry it needs to be. 2. Remove all of the clips. 3. Using a good pair of scissors or a utility/Exacto knife, carefully trim the excess headliner just beyond the glued-down part. 4. Reinstall the rear side windows and their seals. *Install the seal first, then the window.* 5. Push the door seals back into their slots. 6. Reinstall the black C-shaped moulding that presses over the headliner edges. 7. With clean hands or gloves, find the places for the handles, sun visors, dome light and rearview mirror. use the knife to cut a small “X” where each screw will go. For the rearview mirror, cut an “X” across the small, rectangular hole; the mirror pops in with little carefully articulated pressure. I you have a 1966-67 1600 (like mine in the pictures), you’ll have pulled the headliner over the plastic mirror receiver. You’ll need to cut a slit through which the blade of the mirror will slide. For 1966-67 1600’s only The late-1600 and all 2002 mirrors mount with a press-in style mount. Just cut an “X” over the rectangular hole and press the mirror in. 8. You may have some wrinkles left in the headliner from the material being folded up in the packaging. To get rid of this, you can use a hair dryer. I suspect that steam would work even better, but I had no steam-gun, so I used a hair dryer. This takes a little time, so be patient. 9. Reinstall the windshields, being careful not to pull your new headliner out while pulling the seals over the edges.

Found yourself with rotting, crumbling door cards like this? Is the vinyl still nice and supple, and you are struggling with the idea of spending hundreds of monies on replacement look alike cards? Welp, here is a quick tutorial on replacing just the cardboard in your door cards with the Ireland Motorsports aluminum door cards. Found here: https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/aluminum-door-cards-front-2002/ These cost $155 for both front cards...plus shipping of course. Tools needed: flat head, Phillips, needle nose vice grip, interior tool, 3M spray adhesive, scissors, cleaner, rag, a little baby hammer, and contact adhesive. These cards are off my 76’ 2002. As you can see they have seen better days; been exposed to a ton of moisture in their lifetime and are rotting away. This has caused the vinyl to “pillow” and slightly sag at the bottom of the door. I am going to assume you can remove a door card by yourself...You will need an interior tool like the one you see above, and a Phillips and flathead screwdriver for the armrest, cranks, and such. Be careful not to tear the vinyl...be gentle. Do some pre-cleaning before you start. Working with clean hands is always nice. Remove all of the perimeter staples holding the edges of the vinyl in place with a flathead screwdriver. Discard the staples...unless you have a neat staple collection. In that case, we cant be friends. Tech tip: If you find your vinyl is a bit crispy around the edges, take some vinyl conditioner, spray it on, and leave it overnight. Now, slowly begin to peel the vinyl off of the cardboard. It is important to leave the padding attached to the vinyl. The padding gives the vinyl its shape once glued back on to the new aluminum cards. You will notice that I peeled all of the paper from behind the “chrome strip” at the bottom of the card and I left the paper in the middle of the card. This is simply due to the paper being loose down below and very well attached in the middle. Remove any of the loose paper still attached. No need to pick at it to get all the paper off. This is where I left it. On the top rail, you will now focus your attention on the wonderful round “card crimper” thingies. The next 2 pictures are before and after pictures. First one before I bent the tabs in to be able to accept the new door card. The next is after the tabs are bent in using a needle nose vice grip. Be patient, this will annoy you. Time to test fit your new aluminum door card! So pretty. Take your time and ensure all of the factory holes are cut in your new card. This includes: fastener holes, window crank, vent window crank, and holes for armrests and door handles. These matched up perfect with mine, you shouldn’t have an issue. But better safe than sorry. You don’t want to be trying to drill a hole once the vinyl is glued on. This is the glue is used...cuz I had some. Spray the holy Hannah out of the inside of the vinyl padding and paper. Be careful to not be sloppy and get adhesive on the edges you will fold over the card. Carefully lay the new card on to the pre-glued vinyl. Match up the mounting “card crimper” thingies and tabs on the top rail. Take your little baby hammer and a flat head screw driver and bend the tabs and “card crimpers” back to their original positions. Then use your man, or woman hands to apply pressure to the back of the card evenly to ensure the adhesive makes adequate contact with the aluminum. Then you will take your contact adhesive and spread it around all edges of the aluminum door card; as well as the inside edges of the vinyl. You will use a paint brush. I used my fingers because I am a savage. Let the contact cement dry for 15 minutes. In the meantime, you will take the rubber strip backed with 3M adhesive that comes with the kit and apply it to any place on the inside of the door that may come in contact with the door card. Cut it to length as you go with your safety scissors. This is meant to prevent rattling. Oh, and do yourself a favor...take some greasy stuff and slather it all over the window regulator and window sliders while you have the door card off. AND if you are really ambitious, take the locking/latch mechs out and scrub off the old gunky grease and apply new greasy stuff. It is now time to curl the vinyl down to the back side of the aluminum card. Pull it tight as you wrap it around, then press firmly pushing out all air bubbles. That contact cement should hold like the dickens. Now screw in the delicious green interior snaps provided with the kit. Make sure to double check that you are putting them into holes that will match the hole pattern in the door. This will hurt your little baby fingers. Maybe wear gloves? Now, snap that super pretty door card into its stock location on the door. Clean that beautiful card again. Put your stuff back on it. I used vinyl glue to reattach that pesky chrome trim at the top of the arm rest. And voila, you have a card that should be good for another 45 years!

Production numbers of different variations of 2002s and other Neue Klasse cars. If you have updates to these numbers, please add them to the article.

The first time driving the car after 5 1/2 year restoration I quickly remembered the buzzing on acceleration and shaking in my steering column. Unfortunately I had forgotten about it while most everything was completely disassembled. And as someone who notices every rattle, it was driving me nuts. Doing research on FAQ, there was information on loading the steering column but nothing about repairing or replacing a steering column bearing. I put the question on the forum and received no replies. Taking a look at the column junction with the steering box, it looked like everything was properly loaded. And this was an issue before the front end was removed during the restoration. I researched on RealOEM to see what was available, ordered a new bearing and made plans to dig into the steering column. At my friend’s shop we started taking everything apart. Removing the original bearing took some effort as they probably were not designed to ever come out. The original roller was out of round and definitely worn out (picture below). We put the old bearing up against the new one and found the new one is about twice as long as the original. A picture of the old one is below. I didn’t take a picture of the new one and cannot find one on any of our supplier’s sites. The original bearing was a single row roller and the replacement is a double row, if that’s the correct way to describe it. It is also a straight cylinder as opposed to the original tapered cylinder. If you look at RealOEM (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2213-USA-05-1974-114-BMW-2002&diagId=32_0973), you’ll see that behind the bearing is an external snap ring that holds the bearing in place on the column. The bearing is a very tight fit and it took some effort to try to get it in place. But with the snap ring, it sat proud on the column and wouldn't allow the turn signal and wiper arms to be attached. We then decided to remove the new bearing and ‘rebuild' the original and reinstall it. Then another challenge arose. In front of the bearing, is a compression spring, a washer, a spiral snap ring, and a 14mm retainer ring that fits over the snap ring and finally the turn signal cancelling ring. This spiral snap ring fits tightly into a groove and has no place for pliers or anything else to hook into it to remove it or replace it. In getting it out, it deformed the ring and we couldn't get it correctly back into place. A picture below shows the original and the new one. At this point, we tried different things with washers to make it work temporarily. I then ordered a new spring, washer, and several snap rings as an insurance policy. Once they came in, we decided to try it again. We took everything apart, and decided to try the new bearing again. As was said before, it was very tight fit to get it in position. We then spent some time polishing the bearing housing until we were able to press fit it into place. Again, the bearing would not fully seat and sat proud on the column. So with me in the car and my friend under the car, he loosened the steering column at the steering box junction and I pushed it the half inch or so until it's seated. The next task was to get the spring and the washer on and then held in place with the snap ring. That may have been the most difficult part in the entire operation. It took both of us with small screwdrivers and hooks to get the spiral snap ring open enough to slide it over the splines and grooves on the column. We finally got it to the right groove where it was tight enough that the 14 mm ring fit over it to hold it in place. At this point, we spent time putting everything back together. With the steering column pushed down a little farther, when the steering wheel was reattached, the clearance between the steering wheel and the trim pieces was very close. Part of the issue with the clearance is the wear on these all trim pieces after they've been removed and put back on many many times over the years. After spending a few minutes of cleaning up the rough edges, there was enough clearance to eliminate any rubbing when the steering wheel is turned. Adding a washer between the turn signal cancelling ring and the steering wheel added enough extra space that the steering wheel turns easily. The washer had to be small enough that the canceling ring would still lock in the steering wheel. We took the car out on the road and the steering column is now very stable and the buzzing and shaking are gone. Steering now is nice and snug like it was when the car was new. This is not an easy job and requires two people with good tools to do it.

Congratulations! You have purchased a unique electronic tool specifically designed for tuning of the BMW Model 2002 - by a 2002 enthusiast! This unit is100% hand built. To use the tool - First make sure the car is in the NEUTRAL position (and/or Park for automatic cars). No key in the ignition, all accessories off (FAN OFF). Locate the diagnostic port under the hood (Driver’s/Left side close to firewall). Simply plug the diagnostic tool into the port; the plug is polarized so you cannot connect it backwards. Once plugged in, you will see some entry text that confirms the tool is properly connected. Youtube presentation: To start the car: turn the red ignition switch up, the red LED must turn on, next press on the start button. Again, make sure the car is in NEAUTRAL. While the car runs, you can navigate thru the display menu with the “select mode” button: 1-Tach mode (default power-up mode) 2-Voltage mode 3-Dwell angle mode (display shows dwell since it cannot show “w”) 4-Oxygen sensor mode (needs to be activated, see below) Note: The start button can be used alone, without the ignition on, for when you would like to make the motor rotate in small increments to adjust the valves, etc... It is preferable to disconnect the coil if you want to do so. Dwell angle is useful principally for original point and condenser system. Pertronix and Hotspark units throw their own dwell values. Pertronix: tested on one car at 65 deg. Hotspark: 20 deg. Point and condenser: (factory suggested) 59 to 65 deg with 0.016” gap User selectable features: -Selectable Tach mode -Selectable 02 sensor mode To change the user selectable feature, you must open the unit and locate jumper J8 “opt” on the PCB, and temporarily short J8 with tweezers while the unit boots-up. Steps: Disconnect the unit from the car (if it was connected already!!) Open the unit (4x Philips screws) Using a pair of tweezers, short both pins of J8 (picture above) Connect the unit to the car while J8 is shorted The unit will display SET UP Remove the short on J8 The unit is now in set-up mode. Lower right dot on the display must be flashing during the process. -To change the 02 sensor mode, press the “select mode” button. The display will show the new setting: Off=02 sensor mode deactivated (default) nb=02 sensor mode activated, narrow band 0-1v lb=02 sensor mode activated, wide band 0-5v -To change tach mode, use again J8 Display will show the new tach setting: 4cyl=4 cylinder mode (default) 6cyl=6 cylinder mode 8cyl=8 cylinder mode Once the change is made, simply disconnect the unit from the car, new setting is automatically saved already. All units are shipped with an extra pin taped inside so you can wire on permanently a 02 sensor on the factory plug on the car. The 02 sensor input is located in the center of the plug on the tool, position #5 on the factory 02 diagram. NOTE: early model 2002’s do not have the diagnostic plug. Disclaimer: This unit is intended to be used on an unmolested, undamaged stock wiring harness. If you have ignition upgrades and extra ignition current consumption, the unit may not work as designed. -turn all accessories off -make sure the car is in neutral Any accidents, mishaps and/or damage involved with this are the user’s responsibility. The supplier of this product accepts absolutely no responsibility for any such occurrences. Technical data: Voltmeter: manually calibrated within 10mv, readout 0-18v 12 bit a/d converter Tachometer: 100% digital 0.5% error 200rpm min 5000 rpm max (4 cyl) Dwell meter: 100% digital ±1 degree accuracy from 200 to 2000 rpm 02 Sensor: Narrow band: 12 bit accuracy a/d converter 0-1v from non-linear 255 points table Wide band: 12 bit accuracy a/d converter, 0-5v linear, 0v=10 afr, 5v=20 afr Reverse polarity protected on all pins 100% designed from scratch for this purpose, by Patrick Allen, it is not an adaptation of another circuit or anything currently found on the market. I own 100% of this design, including the software.

So as many of us face with old cars , some parts no longer exist or are just crazy expensive. This is one solution that I think may be helpful to some of the folks trying to keep our 02 alive, and how to install a a non factory part gasket into the rear taillight bezel. Remove the old "crusty " one, now is a good time to get the bezel on the buffing wheel. Sure most of the 40 year old gaskets look like this, if even there From McMaster Carr company, order part number 8605K114 this is Ultra weather resistant EPDM foam cord 3/16 diameter 10 ft long, enough to do both tail lights with some to spare, it was about 5 bucks( you can look up the specs on their site for temp ranges and so on.) Without stretching the cord push it gently into the bezel slot, If you pull it too tight, over time it will creep and you will have a gap.I used a Popsicle stick to push it in gently and evenly. The finished product, Yes I know it is not white as the old one. There are silicone rubbers of similar size and hardness that are white. They may create a challenge when trying to compress them along the entire perimeter of the bezel, also their light (UV) resistance is not as good. and the price is 5 fold. I honestly I think black just looks better. Good luck and happy motoring

Motor drop Take lots of pictures, everything, every angle. Disconnect everything, wires, hoses, distributor cap. You may want to remove the front grills and radiator but I don't think that was necessary. Leave the rear wheels on the ground, well chocked. Raise the front end. Front of car secure on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Remove the bracket on the strut that holds the rigid brake lines Remove the brake calipers and hang them from something with something. Get the car high enough to get a jack under the front sub-frame. A floor jack or an ATV/motorcycle jack works fine. Disconnect all the shifter/transmission stuff from the tunnel. Disconnect any and all electrical wiring Disconnect fuel lines Disconnect the exhaust at the downpipe Disconnect the strut bearings from the inner fenders. Now, with the sub-frame/motor balanced,lower it slowly, with a friend watching, to make sure everything clears the frame rails. The shifter and distributor tend to be the things that hang up. Once the motor clears and is as low as the jack allows, move your attention to the floor jacks and start moving the car up until the motor will clear the front valance. Pull it out, lower the car. Watch the struts, they want to fall outward. Have someone hold them or bungee cord them to something. Down down down out away Motor plant Mating transmission to motor the hillbilly way Motor plant today with the help of Bill Riblett Pick a nice cold day to work..... Mate the transmission and motor Mate this to the sub-frame Balance sub-frame on jack Lift car far enough for the motor, sub-frame, jack to go under the front valance. Move the motor under the car. Eyeballing it to make sure everything will clear, line up the shifter. Lower the car as far as you can, slowly, having a friend to watch everything. The car should either go so slowly you can hardly see it move or lower it a bit at a time, stop, look, lower, stop, look, you get the picture. Now raise the motor until the sub-frame mates to the frame rails. (Watch and align the strut studs through the inner fenders.) Use a big punch, 10incher, to line up the holes in the frame rail and the sub-frame. Secure the bolts and tighten. If these fight you, get longer bolts of the same diameter and pitch. Use the longer bolts to get things lined up. Pull the sub-frame and the frame rail together, when you can, change out the longer bolts for the properly sized bolts Secure the shifter stuff and transmission mount and support. Make sure the speedo cable is inserted before the transmission support it put into place. Reattach the brake line brackets and the calipers.

BMW North America Service Training Guide for the Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection system, published February 1980 BMW_2002tii_Fuel_Injection_System.pdf This is a searchable PDF

As many of you know, the original ceramic fuses used in our car are a bit troublesome. The small contact areas mean that they are extremely sensitive to corrosion, and although the fuses are covered by a clear shield, they are still very exposed to the elements. I had enough of turning my fuses in the sockets and scrubbing at the contacts every other month. This, in addition to restoring the connections throughout the wiring harness, will greatly improve the electrical system in your car. You will notice brighter lights, more stable gauges, and for those of us running EFI, a more stable voltage in the system. Notes: This guide uses a fuse box from a 1976 USA car. Your fuse box may be slightly different, but the same process still applies. Be sure to disconnect and remove the battery before doing any electrical work in order to eliminate the possibility of component damage or personal injury. The first step is to remove the fuse box from the car. It is held in place with one sheet metal screw, and simply lifts out. Be careful to not damage any of the wires as you pull the fuse box from the cutout in the fender. You will likely only be able to pull the harness out a few inches; take note of where the connectors attach (they can be attached more than one way, but only one way will work), and be sure not to miss any of the individual connectors. If the connectors are difficult, you may pry on them GENTLY using a flat head screwdriver. Make sure they come off evenly so that they do not bind. With the box out and on your workbench, take a picture to note which way the color coded insert goes. Remove the card. Be careful; it is very delicate and tears easily. While it is out it is not a bad idea to laminate the card in order to insulate it and protect it. I don't know of anyone making replicas, but one of us should. In addition, it would be a good idea to determine which years and models had which cards; there is some variation. Remove the fuses, and take a picture of the contacts before doing the work so you can see just how big the difference is later. Begin by giving the fuse box a good cleaning with some mild soap and water, just to get out any dirt or grime that is present. Don't bother trying to clean the contacts now; you'll be wasting your time. Sneak yourself a bowl from the kitchen, and steal the vinegar out of the pantry. Any kind of vinegar will do, but a white vinegar (I used apple cider vinegar) will be a wise choice. While you are in there, grab the baking soda and salt as well. Begin by placing the fuse box in the bowl, sprinkling some salt on it, and pouring in the vinegar. Stir it up, and shake the fusebox around in the mixture for a few minutes. The acidity of the vinegar and the abrasiveness of the salt will quickly work together to remove the oxidation from the surface. Let it sit for a while in the salt-vinegar mixture while you prepare a baking soda neutralization bath for later on. Mix about a table spoon of baking soda and a cup of water. The concentration of the solution is not crucial. Once the neutralization bath is made, we can go back to the fuse box. After sitting for this long, much of the oxidation has already been removed. We can do better though. Grab a chunk of steel wool, and start scrubbing. Halfway through, the improvement is obvious. With the scrubbing done, it is time to rinse the fuse box multiple times in water (deionized is preferred, although tap water will do just fine), rinsed in the baking soda bath, and then given one final rinse using water to remove the baking soda. Thoroughly dry the part using compressed air (or set out to dry if you don't have compressed air available). Now it is almost time for re-assembly. Grab your di-electric grease. If you really don't have any available, vaseline will do, but you are really better off using the grease as it is far more durable. Get your fuses. ONLY USE OEM GERMAN FUSES. Mercedes has fuses available for a fair rate; I grabbed a bag on ebay for cheap. They are the proper, high-quality ceramic units. Not only will they operate far better than anything else, they will outlast other fuses and look correct in the fuse box. Now take your nice, new fuses and throw them in the acid (vinegar) to remove any oxidation that has collected on them while in storage. You WILL notice a difference. Remember to neutralize them afterwards! This looks better. Tighten down the prongs so that they hold the fuses VERY snug, but do NOT deform the tangs. Bend the curved section of the tang, do NOT bend the whole tang as you will weaken the base. Make sure they all look about even, and coat either end with grease. Insert the correct fuses into the correct slots, being absolutely certain that the bases are sitting properly in the holes at the bottom. When the fuses are all installed, smear some more grease across the bridge in the fuse in order to coat the exposed copper section. Reinstall the card on the back, and cover the nice, clean connectors with more di-electric grease. Go back to your car and using a flat head screwdriver (as shown) deform each connector in the socket SLIGHTLY. Too much will damage the connector and prevent the male prong from entering easily. Only do enough to give the connector a fresh surface to bite onto. Re-install everything and pop on a new cover while you are at it and enjoy your improved electrical system. For that finishing touch, find some compressible water-proof foam to replace the seal between the fuse box and the shell that has completely rotted away. This will greatly improve the life of the fuses and the performance of the electrical system. Short of converting to blade fuses, this is the best thing you can do. PRO-TIP: If you can soak the connectors in the vinegar bath (and then neutralize using the baking soda solution), even without scrubbing, you will improve the connection. This is a good way to quickly clean many connections in the car.

Contributed by Tilux Saturday, 07 October 2006 There are two locking "tabs" that hold the bottom seat in place. Pull up hard on the bottom seat while pushing it back, too. Once removed you will see two curved pieces of steel that lock into the back of the vertical kick panel about one third in from either side. Remove the bottom seat cushion. Now, look under the vertical back seat portion and you will see two metal tabs with a Phillips head screw through a hole in each one; again, about one third in from either side. Back the screws out and jiggle the seat upwards and out.

Original Author: Bill Williams Mike taught me a way to bleed the clutch system on a five speed that makes things pretty simple. Get a pump type oil can from your local hardware,dedicate it to brake fluid. Put a section of tubing on it that fits the spout on the oil can and the bleeder screw. Fill the can with your favorite brake fluid, connect the tubing to the bleeder screw, crack the bleeder screw open and start pumping. Have an assistant watch your reservoir to let you know when the reservoir is full and no bubbles. Close the bleeder screw. Bob's your uncle.

2002tiK Dieter Quester driving the factory BMW 2002 had won the 1968 European Touring Car Championship by just one point to the privateer Helmut Kelleners in his Porsche 911. The 210 horsepower engine in the 2002 was equipped with a 43mm Schnitzer slide throttle and kugelfischer fuel injection. Alex von Falkenhausen head of BMW competition engines knew this was not going to be enough power to win the 1969 season against the 225hp 6 cylinder twin spark plug Porsche or the supercharged Autodelta Alfa Romeo GTA-SA making 230hp. In December of 1968 von Falkenhausen came up with the idea to add a KKK turbocharger to the 4 cylinder BMW engine, Engineer Paul Rosche was tasked with the development of what would become the 300 horsepower M14 turbocharger engine. This was also BMW's last official effort to race the 2002. The 1969 300 horsepower M14 engine to power the 2002tiK The 2002tiK used the larger E9 side loader differential and the ZF 18/3 transmission The 2002tiK cockpit with the turbo boost gauge to the left of the tachometer The start of the 1969 Spa 24 hour with Hubert Hahne taking off after qualifying 2 on grid

I knew I needed new brake hoses when I tried to bleed my brakes and could not get any fluid to come out of the wheel cylinders because of the 40 year old swollen rubber lines. I knew my front hoses were replaced about 20 years ago because of the 9/94 date on them so I decided to replaced them for good measure. I started with the front drivers side. After soaking the fittings with PB Blaster for a couple of weeks, I tried to remove the front hoses. The nuts on the line would not turn. I tried cleaning the outside of the lines, I tried heat, nothing seemed to work. I ended up rounding over the nuts with my flare nut wrench and had to cut them off with a Dremel, ruining the brake lines. Not fun but I was able to put new cunifer hard lines and braided hoses on the drivers side. On to the passengers side. I really didn't want to have to cut the nuts off and replace the line that ran from the hose, along the firewall to the MC with the engine in the car. There had to be a better way. I remembered an article I had read about penetrating oil comparisons. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and Kroil were all good but a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone was much better. So I mixed some up and put that on everyday for about a week with a syringe and tube. Trying to find a better way, I read online that the nut on the hard line is locking the hard line in place and the trick is to hold the nut still and turn the hose instead. I had to find a way to hold the nut without destroying it. Then I found a pair of small 4LW vise-grips specifically made to hold hex nuts. One jaw has a V that fits on two flats of the nut and the other jaw holds the opposing third flat. I was able to get a very good grip on the nut. I found the vise-grip on Amazon and they are made for hex nuts 1/4 to 9/16. http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-Adjustable-Locking-Wrench-Cutters/dp/B0076ITU64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425148634&sr=8-1&keywords=VISE-GRIP+4lw#productDetails Holding the vice-grip stationary, I had to exert extreme force to the 14mm wrench on the hose. With a loud snap. it broke loose with out damaging the line, nut or hose. I was then able to do the same for the other three nuts and remove the hoses. New stainless steel braided hoses The bleed nipple on top of the right caliper was also frozen and had been rounded in an effort to open it. A six point socket was not going to work. I needed to use a different vice-grip with teeth to lock down on the bleeder. I did not want to crush the bleeder and break it off so I put a 1/8" drill bit in the bleeder for strength. With the bit out and my eye protection on and a fire extinguisher near by, I heated the bleeder red hot. Propane was not hot enough so I switched to Mapp gas which got the bleeder nice and red. BTW, I put my hand on the caliper and it was barely hot. I tapped the bleeder with a hammer and then quenched it with a wet rag. I dropped the bit back in and then was able to unscrew it with the vice-grips. Replaced with a new nipple, job done. When I did the back hoses I soaked them with PB Blaster for about a week. I unbolted the center brackets for the sway bar and let it hang for room to turn the wrench. Once the 14mm wrench is on the hose, there is no room to turn it so I had to turn the nut on the line. For the other end of the hose, I put the 14mm wrench inside the trailing arm on the hose and then loosened the nut. Tight working space but I did not need to cut the hose to remove. I was able to remove the rear hoses by using my flare nut wrench. I think the fact they had 40 years of oily grime protecting them, they did not fuse together. The beauty of the small 4LW vice-grips is that it has no teeth to mar the nut. The flat jaws hold three opposing flats of the nut putting equal pressure inward and will not deform the nut. Here is a picture holding an M6 nut that takes a 10mm wrench. But the real trick to removing the nut is to hold it stationary with the hard line and turn the hose to break it loose. Once loose, I was able to used a flare wrench to remove the nut.

Giving a nod to the 70’s Volkswagen repair manual that spawned countless others, my post is a distillation of several other posts on how to construct half shafts that work with the installation of an e21 LSD in your ’02. In all cases, the e21 parts referenced are the “later” e21 parts. In my case, I believe that they came from a 1980 320is. Other posts and reference material cite differences in dimensions of “early” half shafts, CV joint bolts and differential widths. See the end of this article. Primary problem: stock 2002 half shafts (CVs plus axle) are too short with a e21 LSD installed. Why: the LSD is ~10mm narrower. Secondary problem: the inner 2002 CV won’t bolt to the later LSD. Why: because the LSD uses 10mm bolts and the 2002 CV uses 8 mm bolts. Solution: Use later e21 half shafts, replacing the outer e21 CV with a 2002 CV. This allows the inner CV to bolt directly to the LSD output shafts and the outer CV to bolt directly to the wheel input shaft. The 2002 CV is used without the cupped washer that comes on the stock half shaft. The inner CV has a ¼” (6.5mm) spacer between it and the LSD output shaft. That’s it. Of course, you should take everything apart, clean and inspect the CVs and re-grease them. New CV boots and clamps finish off the project. The taking apart can be facilitated if you have a hydraulic press. A couple of the CVs nearly fell off with a light tapping, but a couple needed persuasion. I found a friend with a press which reduced the stress on the axle shaft ends that results from banging on it. Just make sure the circlips are removed first. Details I took a number of measurements of the e21 and 2002 parts. I also took some photos. What I learned was that the stock 2002 half shaft and the hybrid shaft described above are exactly the same length (see photo), yet the e21 LSD is 10mm narrower than the stock 2002 differential. This can be seen in the photo of the two differentials sitting side by side with a level on top to the 2002 output shaft. It’s sitting on a shoulder that is ~1mm-~2mm higher than the mounting surface, but you get the idea. The spacer mentioned above closes this gap. I had spacers that were 6.5mm each (1/4”), so I used them. I would have preferred to use 3/16” or 5mm, but I couldn’t find any, so I went with what I had. The ¼” variety are readily available from all of the well know ’02 suppliers. More details The cages and balls in the e21 and 2002 CV were identical. The axle shafts were not. The 2002 shafts were shorter end to end (top shaft in photo), but interestingly also had longer splined ends which I surmise is why they used the cupped washers to take up the space required to secure the CV with the circlip on the end of the half shaft. If you try to use the cupped washer on the shorter splined 320i axle, there is no way to install the circlip. I tried. Extraneous stuff I wanted to use Oetiker clamps on the dust boots which came with a prior rebuild kit. These are single use items, but low profile and very secure. I couldn’t find them at any of the local auto parts shops, so I ordered them from a metric parts house: Belmetric.com. Part # 16300029 on the CV end of the dust boot and # 16700042 on the axle end of the dust boot. These require special pliers to install and given that the local auto parts store no longer carried the clamps, they also no longer loaned out the pliers required to install them. Instead, I borrowed a pair of my friend’s pricey Pex clamp pliers which worked perfectly. The $12 Home Depot variety didn’t work (well). I also ordered conical lock nuts for the 8mm outer 2002 CV bolts. They’re called stover nuts and have oblong looking holes. These are lower profile than conventional nylock nuts and are what were used on the stock 2002 drive shaft flanges. They are <1/2 the price of the BMW versions. Bel-Metric’s parts were shipped express, so I had them in 2 days. Pretty good service and the parts were just as expected. The back story I started all of this because I wanted to fix a leaking LSD rear cover. When I originally did this conversion 10 years ago, I used a conventional gasket which always leaked, so I decided to use Permatex Ultra Black on the do over. While preparing to remove the LSD, with the car on jack stands, I noticed that the differential output shaft on one side was pulled out of the differential by 1/2”. There was a huge gap between the output shaft dust cover and the differential which kind of freaked me out. This only seemed to occur when the wheels were up in the air and their weight pulled the output shafts part way out the differential. The same thing might happen if an energetic driver got the car airborne, which it turned out my son had. It explained the splatter of Redline dripping off the differential onto my garage floor. What was most amazing about this was the discovery that when I originally did the LSD install and the half shaft conversion, I used the 2002 half shafts, which from the photos above, are much shorter. And yet the car ran around for 10,000 miles without any (obviously) adverse effects. Is there a lesson here? Just do it whatever and it will probably work? Maybe, but the great news with this site is that after I did the conversion the first time, a lot more intelligent questions were asked, with knowledgeable answers given, which helped me to get this done right the second time around. So, thanks to the FAQers who preceded me in answering questions and documenting their projects. I’m happy to add my story to the list. Parts List Quantity Description 1 2002 half shaft – only need the 2 CV joints, save cupped washers for another project 2 e21 half shafts – need 2 axles and 2 CV joints from later year 2 3/16” or ¼” spacers 12 10mm x 65mm Allen head bolts 2 Half shaft rebuild kits (2 dust boots, 2 large and 2 small Oetiker clamps, 1 tubes grease) Good references, with more detail, are : Ireland Engineering Differentials article: http://www.bmw2002.com/documents/bmw-2002-differentials.pdf 2002 FAQ post (see “Gil by the way of Gary” text): 2002 FAQ post, e21 Diff Install with 320i Inner CV Joints: 2002 FAQ Post, How to Replace a Differential:

I recently recovered a set of e21 Recaros for use in my 1970 2002. The rear seat was in great shape with black factory basketweave vinyl. I wanted to match the pattern with the recovered seats in the front and began to research the alternatives. The goal was to find a source with as close a match as possible, both in pattern and feel. The feel is subjective since the original vinyl on the rear seat was somewhat hard after 50 years as was the passenger's front seat, but the weight/quality of the original vinyl was noticeably different than that used when I previously had the driver's seat recovered locally. I contacted several suppliers, received samples from each and eventually selected #1010S Black basketweave from GAAH in North Hollywood. I also used their smooth vinyl #0005 Black. It felt the best, my calipers measured it as the thickest and the pattern, while not exactly the same as the original, was close enough that without a close inspection, it looks like a good match to the original rear seat. More on that difference below. I considered these sources: BMW - they still sell the basketweave vinyl. The sample was 1 yard which was the minimum quantity. It was OK, but no better than any of the domestically produced vinyl alternatives. A FAQer got a good price on the resale. World Upholstery - 150 Basketweave. Pattern was fine, embossing a little faint, material weight similar to other domestic choices (lighter weight). Global Upholstery - R120 Basketweave. Very similar to GAAH vinyl. Slightly more distinct embossing. Looked almost the same thickness as GAAH, but maybe a little thinner and I liked the feel of the GAAH better, Also, while I called and spoke with Global Upholstery, I received the sample and business card from Steven Sperling who has an eBay store called zoomzoomzoom-ing. Lots of forum discussions that raised some concerns. GAAH - #1010S Black Vinyl ""Basketweave" looked and felt the best and their smooth vinyl #0005 is also a very close match to the original. This basketweave was the highest priced at ~$75/yard. However, the material is not a major cost in the job, it's the labor. No surprise. GAAH also has an "In House" basketweave pattern, but it must be intended for other Euro cars because it's not even close to the BMW version. A couple of notes for those of you that have basketweave seats and are considering a recovering project. - The primary difference between all of these patterns and the original vinyl pattern is that the original has vertical seams or lines every couple of inches that may have simulated what actual stitching may have looked like had then been used. None of the patterns I found, included that sold by BMW had that feature. - The basketweave has an orientation. If you look closely, there are rectangular bar between the divots. The original seats had the long part of the rectangles parallel to the sides of the seats. So running front to back on the seat bottom and bottom to top on the back. I mention this because it apparently takes 2X the replacement material to sew them like this, but if you don't, or don't tell the upholsterer, you're going to get fronts that don't match the backs, which defeats the whole purpose. Last, as many before me have testified, a shout out to Dave Varco is warranted. He did the seat work and it is truly spectacular. They feel and look like they are new. I would never send a set of seats, or refer a friend, anywhere else.

Just scanned this today. With OEM numbers and pictures. Orignal & Complete BMW-Sonderzubehoer.pdf

BMW Parts Manual 2000 - 2000 CS - 96 99 106 d-e-f-h-s 3 III.66 - medium.pdf

Workshop Manual 1500-1600-1800-2000.pdf This manual also covers the mechanical aspects of the early 1600-2, 1600ti and early 2002. Below are higher definition copies of certain pages;

Original Author: Jeff Ireland Differential Types - 2002 and 320i: Early 1600's and 2002's came with a long neck differential. These were phased out in early 1969. They were either 4.11:1 (1600) or 3.64:1 (2002). They are very rugged (heavy) and easy to come by, but not rebuildable due to the lack of available replacement parts. If you want to switch to the later short-neck differential, you must replace the entire subframe and rear suspension. This sounds tough but is actually fairly easy and the parts are readily available. All later 2002's and all 320I's used the short neck differential. These came in several ratios: 3.36:1 -- 2002 Turbo 3.45:1 -- some euro tiis and 6 cyl E21s 3.64:1 -- most 2002s and all 4-speed e21s 3.90:1 -- some 1976 2002s and all 5-speed e21s 4.11:1 -- all 1600s Of all these variations, all of them can be transplanted into a 2002. Variations and how to recognize them: All 2002/1600 diffs have 4 bolts holding the side covers and the output flanges are held in by a large central bolt. CV's are attached the output flanges with 6 - 8mm bolts. Early e21 ('77 and '78) 320i's have four bolts holding the side covers, but the output flanges are held in by a C-clip inside the diff. These diffs usually have 8mm bolts for the CV joints but some use the later 10mm bolts. These early diffs are the same width as the 2002 diff so no spacers are necessary if you are putting one in a 2002. Later e21's have 6 bolts holding the side covers and the output flanges are held by a snap ring just above the splines. You can easily pop out the flanges with a screw driver. These diffs nearly all use the 10mm bolts for the CV joints. These diffs are also narrower than the earlier diffs. If you want to put these into a 2002 you should use spacers to bring them to the proper width. Inner CV joints from a 1979 (and only a 1979) e21 are thicker and can be used instead of spacers if you happen to come across a set. Otherwise, billet aluminum spacers and the proper bolts are advised. Making the Swap: It's common to put e21 diffs into 2002's either to get the 3.90 ratio or the easily available 320is limited slip. The e21 diffs will bolt right onto the subframe and driveshaft. Just remove the 320i rear cover and install your 2002 cover. Please note the possible difference in widths I mentioned above. The final issue is 8mm bolts vs. 10mm bolts. If your new diff takes 10mm bolts for the CV joints, you have a couple of choices. Put 320i CV joints on the inboard end of the 2002 axle (if you can find 1979 ones, so much the better), or option two is to drill and tap six new 8mm bolt holes in the e21 output flanges. Clearly these need to be located with some precision and thus we offer the service at Ireland Engineering.

Original Author: Paul Wegweiser Removing and Rebuilding the Pedal Box Parts Needed: Pedal Box rebuild kit, consisting of: 35 41 1 108 237 Throttle bushings x 2 35 41 1 108 676 Throttle lever spring 35 41 4 440 122 Gas pedal roller 35 31 4 640 116 Clutch pedal to Master bushings x 2 35 21 4 640 103 Clutch pedal pivot bushing 35 21 4 045 707 Brake pedal pivot bushing 35 31 1 104 531 Clutch pedal return spring 35 21 1 102 383 Brake pedal Return spring 35 21 4 440 113 Clutch and brake pedal pads x 2 (THANKS: scottt in New Hampshire for the list of part numbers!) Getting Started: Removing the Pedal Box has to be one of the most-dreaded operations one can perform on an '02. Probably only pulling the heater box is worse in terms of popular perception of the difficulties involved! Total time required for the operation is maybe 3 hours at most - and a truly rewarding repair! The first time I performed this job with the motor OUT of the car - and it was still a royal PITA! I must've wasted 3 hours on a couple circlips and link rod pins. So here's the secret magical method for painlessly removing and installing the dreaded pedal box from an '02. First off: You don't need to disassemble as much as you think you do! THAT is the secret. Pedal box bushing and spring kits are about $35.00 or so - and worth every penny! 1. Peel back carpet so you can easily reach all the pedals, and pedal box bolts. If you've got a later 74-76 car with the one piece carpet - be prepared to go submarining under that nasty funk filled carpet with a flashlight in each nostril and wrenches in your mouth. 2. Loosen the large bolt that holds the clutch pedal to the master cylinder push rod. It's a 19mm / 13mm thing - and it SHOULD have bushings on either side. These generally crack or decompose during removal - glad you got new ones, right? Now pop off the tension spring and circlip holding the vertical rod and clevis block to the brake pedal - push pin off and through toward the left to disconnect. Sometimes this pin is stubborn - but trust me - it'll move out of the way. Don't mess with threading the clevis block unless you want to adjust pedal height. We'll save that for another sermon. Remove all the 13mm bolts that hold the bucket/box to the floor. 3. From the engine bay side - follow the pedal box as it travels up the firewall - and you'll notice it's held in place by a long fat bolt that passes through the brake booster bracket. You do NOT have to remove the bolt to remove the box (that's secret number TWO!) Since the box is slotted at the top - just loosening this nut/bolt to it's last possible thread will allow the pedal box to drop down for removal. If you remove that bolt - you'll spend the rest of the day wrestling with pivot arms, mean, miserable hidden circlips, and scaring away small garden animals as you hurl tools about the yard in primal rage. 4. Now to get under the car. If you were paying attention to the gas pedal as you popped it off, you'll see that there's a steel rod that passes through the side of the pedal box. Now's your chance to start its removal process. Loosen the 10mm nut/bolt that holds the arm lever to the pedal rod, make a note of the spring orientation, and hop back inside the car. Now - from inside the car - wiggle the pedal rod while you pull it to the LEFT - and out of the pedal box. It is NOT possible to remove the box without removing this gas pedal rod first. Trust me - I've tried it six ways from Sunday. 5. Now the hardest part of the job - removing the clutch master cylinder from the box. Reaching those 13mm nuts is a true pain. But if you remove it from the box carefully - you won't have to unhook the supply line or bleed the clutch at the end of this little trip. Plus - a loose supply hose dangling above your head is gauranteed to dribble brake fluid on your noggin! I don't know about you, but I hate brake fluid more than any thing in this world. As if it wasn't bad enough that it stings in cuts, blinds you, makes everything slippery, dissolves latex gloves and stinks; but it'll take the PAINT right off your car too- YAEECHHK!!! Horrible stuff! Treat with care! Now there's only one obstacle holding the pedal box in: the metal brake lines where they are clamped to its side. CAREFULLY pry the tabs back, pull the lines away from the box bracket, and lower the box down. I work from under the car; guiding the clutch and brake pedals down through the hole in the firewall. 6. Once it's out - take a GOOD look at the arrangement of the clutch spring, washers, and bolt holding the pedals on. remove bolt, replace all wearable parts (springs, bushings, circlips) making sure to lubricate everything with a good (I'm a 'Moly guy myself) grease. 7. Reinstall box, clutch master (you'll cuss at the master cyl. It's OK - we all do it!) and finally the gas pedal rod. Having a buddy (thanks Tim!) push the pedal to the floor while you slide on the splined throttle shaft arm at full open throttle (at the carb) will greatly speed up the operation. Best O' luck to ya'! The new feel of the pedals will amaze you! Truly worth all the effort - and only required once every few decades! If you have any questions please post them on the Message Board!

Contributed by Mars Friday, 22 December 2006 Here's how to repair your Tii's dash clock. This method only applies to the early 2002tii clocks (1972-1973). 1974 Model Tii's used a newer electric version. Typically these clocks hold up very well and are quite reliable (although not very accurate when in operation). The most common cause of failure is a fused wire that blows over time. The following below will show you how to fix this most common of causes. This is to be used for reference purposes only. This instructional how to is not to be held liable for any damages caused to your vehicle. Use at your own risk! First thing needed to be done obviously is to remove the clock from the dash. This can be rather difficult as there is limited room to work with. There are a number of ways to try and get in from behind the clock and which one you choose will vary on how big or small your hands are. Access from behind through the glovebox is the most common, but certainly not the easiest. Another option is to move out the console. This is the best way as you will be able to get in from behind the clock and underneath better. The third option for those with small hands (or who have an assistant with small hands) can reach from the top of the dash through the buzzer hole cutout (if your model has the buzzer, not all do) and loosen the screws that hold the clock together. The clock has a small bracket that holds it in place and uses two plastic (or metal) thumbscrews. To remove the clock reach behind with one of the methods above and loosen the thumbscrews. Be ready to catch them as they most likely will fall due to the limited hand room behind the clock. Here is a view of the clock from the floor up and behind the console. The glove box was also removed for this picture. This pic shows the black plastic thumbnail screws that hold the clock in place. Once you successfully loosen the screws the clock will simply pop out towards you. Be sure to grab the bracket the screws go into so it doesn't get lost behind the console. This is another reason I recommend removing the console. After popping it out, simply undo the light bulb, power and negative wires. Take note of which wires go where. The ground wire (brown) goes to the left of the bulb if you are looking directly from behind the clock. The bottom wire (red) with the spade connector is the power wire (12v +). It can be confusing as the ground connection has a 12v engraving below it. This is not an indicator of which connection goes where but rather an indication that it runs on 12v +. This usually confuses most folks. Once out, the next few steps that follow are the most difficult. To gain access to the clock's internal workings you will need to remove the front bezel. This is usually a black trim ring in front but for some it may be silver (such as on the early Ti models). Carefully using a thin flat head screwdriver begin to pry up from under and behind the bezel. Take your time. Patience will be your friend here as you don't want to damage the bezel ring. After slowly going around a few times you should be able to pop the ring off of the clock. Here is a pic of the clock with the front bezel removed. Take note that the ring has notches in it that match a notched area on the inner bezel of the clock. Next, loosen the nuts at the rear of the clock. The nuts are made so that the screws run through them so you will not be able to just use a screwdriver. You can use a small flathead and get at the nuts from one of the sides or a lightweight set of pliers to remove them if they are stubborn. Then, after loosening the nuts slide the clock from out of it's metal casing. Now with complete access to the internals of the clock begin inspecting the clock slowly. Look over the clock near where the copper coil is and around that area but towards the top of the clock. You should see two small tabs. If they are not connected chances are this is the cause of your clock's failure. These tabs normally have a small wire that connects the two and acts as sort of a "fused jumper". All that remains is to solder the two connections back together with a small wire. Use a low temp solder and take your time. I recommend using an 18-20 gauge wire. After that, make sure that you clean the clock well. Use canned air spray to blow out small particles and be sure to check the needles in front as they can sometimes bind and prevent the clock's movement. In the pic to the left you can see where the solder was made and where the tabs referenced above are located. Putting it back together is the reverse of the steps you took above to take it apart. When reinstalling the front bezel, again, take note of the notches and line them up to the clock. With the notches in place I used a small set of needle nose pliers and very carefully crimped the bezel back over the casing. With the notches in place I used a small set of needle nose pliers and very carefully crimped the bezel back over the casing. Here is what it looked like after it was reassembled. Reinstall the clock to the dash. Make sure your ground connections are sound as poor ground is also another common cause for the clocks not to work properly. That's it!

Written by Richard Stern Saturday, 17 September 2005 Adjusting the Window regulator Adjusting the Window regulator By Richard Stern If your front side windows don’t shut fully there may be a cheap easy answer before buying a second-hand window regulator as new ones are NLA Tools required: Large flat blade & Phillips screwdrivers Block of wood 10mm socket or spanner Old wire coat hanger Some spare plastic door panel clips Instructions: With the wire coat hanger, poke out the disc from the quarter light knob, by poking it through the hole at the back of the knob & push out the blanking disc way from the door, this will expose the screw holding the knob on – Remove. Remove all screws holding the door handle rest, carefully pry off the top chrome surround to expose top screw. Plastic insert on door handle also pushes off away from the center. With all handles and winders removed, carefully pull lower part of door panel away from door, there are plastic clips that will properly break, but they are cheap & easy to replace. Keep going all around the door working to the top until all clips are dismantled. Door panel should now lift upwards; it might need some wriggling. Loosen the 3x 10mm bolts holding the window winder to the regulator. Temporarily put the window winder handle on, & wind the window fully up. Either pull window up with your hands to gain another 5mm or so. Or use a block of wood & place it in the bottom of the door. Wind the window down onto the wooden block & then give it an extra quarter of a turn. Tighten the x3 10mm screws. The window should now wind up fully. Refit is reverse of the removal process, replacing any broken clips where necessary. Please post any questions or comments to the Message Board!

Background: I have known of my bouncing timing mark for sometimes and have learned one of the root causes is ignition distributor shaft axial and/or rotational play. So I called well known distributor rebuilder and told me rebuild time is approximately 5 weeks including shipping both ways. I would have sent it to him if it was Winter season here in Ohio, but to do it now means I won’t be driving my "Ultimate Driving Machine" for 5 weeks. So I decided to take on the task and repair it myself. I knew the distributor shaft has 0.040”axial play. The distributor is original to my 1976 BMW 2002 and part numbers stamped on distributor housing are: 0 213 170 164 // JFU 4 So, proceeded with setting engine at TDC (distributor cam aligned to distributor notch) then removed the distributor. Here are steps for disassembly: Remove contact breaker, capacitor, vacuum regulator and tabs holds distributor cap Next, note indents on distributor body where contact breaker resting on (3 places) From vacuum regulator opening, insert screw driver and pry contact breaker plate up at each indent locations. Other option for plate removal per FAQ member ('76Mintgrun'02) feedback is "rotate the plate counter clockwise to release it from the indents in the housing." Disengage two springs from cam base posts and rotate springs outward. Force cam upward with two screwdriver until retaining clip is out of groove (do not remove felt inside cam hole before cam disengagement) Move the cam upward. There was one trust washer under cam. Note a washer and O-ring clip under felt pad Clamp up helical gear wheel in a vise (use piece of leather to protect gear surface) and drill out pin with 3mm drill. Remove helical gear, trust washer(S) and fiber washer (make note of trust washers stack up) Pull out shaft with counter weights assembly. Again make note of trust washer(s) and fiber washer located underneath shaft counter weight plate. On mine fiber washer was absent under main plate, which explained excess axial play. Clean all the parts with your favorite cleaner. Remember to take a lot of pictures at each dis-assembly stages. Measure trust washer(s) and fiber washer for each group and make notes. Replacement parts: 12111350261, 07119943082, 12111351440, 12118630239 & 12118630245 (not all parts are shown) For assembly I used following instructions: Remember, axial play should be less than 0.005” post assembly completion . Use engine oil and Bosch distributor lube grease for assembly. Soak lubricating felt in engine oil, roll it and slid it inside housing. (on mine felt pad was also missing) Lubricate shaft assembly, counter weights, springs. Slide trust washer(s) and fiber ring over the shaft (rest against bottom of counter weight plate) slide shaft assembly onto the housing and push it down all the way. Slide cam trust washer and then cam over the shaft. Secure the cam with washer and ring. replace felt pad and add couple drops of engine oil on top od felt pad. Slide over fiber washer(1st) and then rust washer(s) to bottom of the shaft. Secure helical gear onto the shaft and push new pin halfway in. Check axial play with shim set. Hold distributor body firm in one hand and pull down on helical gear with other hand. Should not be able to slide in more than 0.005" shim stock over fiber washer. Once clearance is confirmed, press cone grooved pin all the way in. Lubricate contact breaker plates (bottom plate top surface and top plate bottom) with Bosch grease. Secure small "U" clip with ball bearing to contact breaker plate, then set it inside housing. Make sure its mounting holes are lined up with housing clearance holes. Install capacitor, vacuum regulator and tabs holds distributor cap. Set contact breaker to specs. Add cam grease to cam lobe , install distributor accordingly, secure distributor cap. Turn engine on and follow procedure for setting engine timing.