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Mike Self

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Everything posted by Mike Self

  1. Another tip: when reinstalling the blower motor/fan assembly--especially if you've bought a new motor and installed the old fan on the new motor: after reassembling but before reinstalling the heater, make sure the fan won't hit the "air mixer door" at the bottom of the heater box inlet. This is the flap that the temperature cable closes as the water valve opens, forcing more and more intake air through the heater core as a way of increasing (or moderating) the air temperature that flows into the cabin. Energize the motor and make sure the fan spins without hitting anything, regardless of mixer door position. Then turn the fan off and rotate it by hand to insure clearance. My '69's fan would freewheel at highway speeds and hit the mixer door, causing a very irritating dinging sound, but with the blower motor operating there was clearance. Had to dismantle the heater to cure the problem--it was that way from the factory. mike
  2. Holy cow...that's really BLUE! Makes French Racing Blue look kinda pale. As for the turn signal you're seeking--the flat (Euro) style that was original to the '69, or the bulge (US) style in your picture? Both are available new, but the flat Euro one will have to be massaged a little so you'll have both parking lights and turn signals within. BTW, what's the VIN? First or second series '69? mike
  3. Completely forgot about this style as I've only seen 'em once or twice--and I've seen these in 14" styles on NK sedans and 2000CS coupes. So that makes 3 styles of trim rings fitted to early roundies. The slotted ones I was referring to look exactly like the outer edge of the full wheel covers used on 69-73 roundies. Doncha just love all this arcane stuff? mike
  4. On your original battery setup, there was a heavy gauge wire that was attached to the + battery terminal with a 6mm bolt. In your rear battery mount conversion, what did you do with that wire? It powers almost everything on the car except the starter, and if something's happened to it, you'll essentially get no power anywhere. mike
  5. I have a planking spike from a 1733 Spanish ship that's in better condition--and it was under salt water for 235 years! Good old Mother Nature, and her friend, Mr Road Salt. mike
  6. The only two trim rings I've seen for roundies were two types, both meant to be held in place by the "dog dish" hubcaps fitted to 1600s and early 2002s. The first type is very soft aluminum and has square vent holes. It was an accessory item sold through BMW dealers, and (i think) dates from 1966/67. The second type is (I think) stainless steel, and a lot sturdier than the above type. It has oval holes, and when snapped in place in conjunction with the hubcap, looks almost identical to the one piece wheel covers fitted to the 69-73 2002s. The only year cars I've seen these fitted to were 1968 2002s, but presume the trim rings were available from BMW dealers if you wanted to add 'em to your 1600 hubcaps. That's a roundabout way of saying what you have doesn't look like either, but some BMW importers in other European countries might have offered 'em as accessory items. I've just never seen 'em on a US car. mike
  7. I had the pleasure of meeting Dave, his Dad and the Orange Car at one of the MidWest 02fests, held at the Tire Rack facility in South Bend IN...that was quite a while ago--before Dave grew his beard. Cheers, and happy anniversary mike
  8. Keep in mind that the newer valves (think they started in 1974) have a small hole in the valve that will allow a minimal coolant flow through the heater core, even when the valve is fully closed. The factory found out that if the core was completely shut off from coolant circulation (as it would be in the summer, or year round in warm climates) it would clog up the heater core, so they added that small hole. Check your valve for this hole; that may be the source of your leak. If so, it's intentional. mike
  9. Looks like it's either Nevada or Sahara--it's a roundie with side reflectors and no knee trim, so it's either a '69, 70 or early '71. Shiny hubcaps and bulge front turn signals rules out a '69; that leaves a '70 or early '71. Looks like the front's been backed into, bending the bumper and possibly pushing in the grille. Cool picture from the past.... mike
  10. I learned that from experience. In 1999 I discovered that little hose between the valve and heater core was original to my '73--so it was 26 years old. It shattered like hard plastic when I went to remove it... Glad you found it. mike
  11. Check your heater valve and the little hose between the valve and the heater core--a drip there can eventually find its way through the center "elephant trunk" and drip onto the upper side of the bellhousing, then run around to the bottom. If there's coolant in your heater plenum chamber it's gotta be one of the heater hoses or the heater valve... mike
  12. A couple of years ago in Death Valley CA--in July--I saw 119 F on the car's thermometer--never made it to 120, though. But, as they say, "it's a dry heat." mike
  13. Your results may vary...but I've had really good luck with POR 15 paste and fiberglass window screen to do repairs like yours. I experimented with that repair technique on an E30 rear fender lip, and after three salty Ohio winters the repairs hadn't fallen out and there was no additional rust around the repair's edges. Your repairs will be under the quarter window seals (which you're presumably gonna replace with nice, new ones that seal properly, so the repairs are protected from weather, and don't have to be neatly finished. PM me and I'll send you a column on how I did these repairs on the E30, and a couple of 2002 spots. cheers, and way to go for saving another '02. mike
  14. If your idle is set at factory specs (750-800 rpm)--and that should be checked with a dwell meter that incorporates a tach, as your dash tach may not be accurate--you shouldn't have a dim alternator light with everything off except the engine electrics. My OEM (and original!) 35 amp alternator on my '69 will only allow the alternator light to come on dimly at idle if I have the headlights and heater blower (the two largest current draws) on simultaneously--and will go out over 1000 rpm. Make sure the ground wire from alternator body to engine block is intact and not frayed at either terminal end. If that wire is bad (and it should be 10 gauge, as the factory one was) it will definitely affect your alternator output. mike
  15. Wal-Mart, Tractor Supply and Rural King (among others) all have 26R batteries--and they're about the same price--around $50-55 currently. A Group 42 will work (VW old Beetle) but the 26R has more capacity. mike
  16. Count your blessings that you have a squarelight--there's no source for the waffle-pattern center sections that's truly correct on roundie upholstery--hopefully someone will remedy that situation one of these days... The good news for roundie owners is the upholstery on roundies is a lot better quality and lasts much longer than the material used on squarelights... mike
  17. Carburetor cleaner has worked for me. Just don't let it get on paint you want to keep! Also fingernails (attached to your finger/thumb) if they're strong enough... mike
  18. First of all, make sure the leak isn't coming from the pressure line that connects M/C with slave, or the non-pressurized supply line that connects the reservoir with the M/C. The original line was metal and could have rusted through. Much easier to replace than the two cylinders! If either the clutch M/C or the slave is leaking and you don't know when either was replaced, I'd do both, 'cause the one you don't replace will be the weak link and will start to leak sooner rather than later since the new part will hold pressure better. I never had much luck with rebuilding either, so I think I'd go with new parts. Pull your carpet back and make sure the pedal bucket isn't full of brake fluid (it'll hold a pint!) Fluid in there = leaking M/C. Clean it out thoroughly with brake cleaner--the brake fluid will rust out your pedal bucket. Some time ago I did a column with some tricks of the trade in replacing both M/C and slave cylinder; PM me and I'll send you a copy. It's not a difficult job, but there are some pitfalls and tricks that will make it difficult or easier respectively. cheers mike
  19. +1 on Harry's product. They look completely original (unlike the re-engineered factory product) and work much better than the OEM ones. They actually hold the door open--in two positions--and don't break. I've had 'em on my car for 7-8 years and they're doing just fine. mike
  20. If you'd like to try repairing the broken speedo needle yourself, PM me--I did a column on that very repair I performed for a fellow 02er and then wrote about. And let us know if you are still having problems with the fuel gauge. If the problem is with the sender, I also did a column on troubleshooting them, so lemme know. cheers mike
  21. What Jim is referring to is the "shallow" side grilles. The headlight surround on the '72 and '73 cars is over an inch shallower than the surrounds on earlier roundies, and have been NLA for many years. That's what gives those two years' cars a slightly bug-eyed look. Those shallow grilles are difficult to find, so if you're gonna replace the grilles with new ones, there are more than a few '72 and '73 owners who'd love to have yours. But were it my car, I'd keep the original grilles, Malaga paint and saddle interior (Malaga is one of my favorite colors)--but then I'm pretty much a purist--at least where it shows. Looking forward to see progress; you're sure not letting any grass grow under your feet on the restoration! cheers mike
  22. After decorating my garage for 7 years (my retirement present to myself) I finally installed a 3.64 limited slip last year. Our "friend" The Virus has kept me from any long '02 road trips since, but so far--primarily around town--I really like it--particularly in the rain. With the limited choice of 185/70x13 tires, most of those available seem to be averse to water. At least with a limited slip, there's less wheelspin on takeoff in the wet. Looking forward to trying it on some of our twisty Ohio back roads... mike
  23. Coupla things: The plastic cover that (supposedly) protects the brushes and commutator ring on the heater blower motor just snaps off--no need to drill it. More importantly--the Behr A/C unit is wired so the heater blower motor won't work if the A/C switch is on. And those Behr A/C switches do go bad. Or someone has either replaced it with the wrong switch (from an E21 or early 5er) or wired it incorrectly. A Behr wiring diagram should be on this web site somewhere. Check it against yours. Some lubrication and patience with encouraging the fan to turn either with your finger or a screwdriver blade with the power on will often get one going again, but if the plastic brush holders are melted or otherwise deformed, the motor is probably toast. mike
  24. The steering column lock engages the shaft, not the wheel so it won't get in your way when you remove the wheel. Don't have any additional suggestions from what's already been written. Just keep at it. There's probably a burr on one of the splines that's causing the wheel to catch, so keep pushing and pulling; the splines on the steering wheel are pot metal,and those on the shaft are steel, so one will eventually wear down the other. mike
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