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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. Oh, and I might have just had an idea: what are your HIGH beam bulbs? Also LED? The way the 2002 is wired, the headlight relay coil is grounded THROUGH the high beam filaments - this is why the low beams turn off whenever you turn on the high beams. With the high beams off, the purple/white wire should be very close to ground/0V. But when you turn them on, that wire now has 12V, and this also turns the low beam relay back off. But that ground path for the relay was intended to go through the high beam incandescent filaments, so if those are now LED circuitry, yeah it would do something screwy/bad with respect to the relay. . .
  2. They both drop to 8V because there is some sort of load in the circuit which pulls the voltage of the whole thing down; remember they're both supplied by that same solid yellow wire. Clearly there's something wrong, so here's how you go about finding it: 1.) Unplug both headlight bulbs. 2.) Recheck voltage at all the points you previously measured. With the lights switched on, is everything now at 12.5V? -> If 12.5V, then there's something wrong with the bulbs. Check them each individually to see if it's just one or both. -> If still 8V, then the issue is not with the bulbs and instead with the wiring. Start by unplugging either the yl/bk or yl/bl wires from the back of the fuse box to see if you can isolate the problem to one of those wires.
  3. Lol, yes indeed, that's the 8-bolt flywheel hub of the crank we're looking at there. I never realized that crank was so darn symmetrical! Might want to double check the piston orientations too at this point, just in case!
  4. What are the voltage readings with the regular halogen or sealed beam bulbs in there instead of the LEDs? Same or different?
  5. In my experience, this primarily has to do with the quality of the installation. Modern solid state electronics just don't really really up and fail these days, and even poor/cracked solder joints I don't think I've ever seen unless it was on something 15+ years old that clearly went through a lot of heat cycles. The two things that have stopped me on the road in the 10 years I've been running megasquirt? 1.) A broken alternator grounding cable and 2.) A spade fuse connector that (after properly soldering to the end of the wire) I didn't get pushed all the way into the housing so that the barb clicked into place, and with the help of gravity it eventually worked it's way off.
  6. You surely know my vote already, but since you put up the poll, I'm chiming in anyway in favor of Megasquirt! I'd even argue that the software is quite a bit above the 'home brew' level at this point in time; at least with regard to MSExtra code anyway. And frankly for your installation I don't think you even *need* MS3 (unless you want it), but I'm pretty sure either MS2 with the v3.57 board or Microsquirt with a 4-bar MAP sensor to handle the boost would cover all your needs also (afaik they all have optional circuits for real-time barometric correction): https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/megasquirt-systems-compared/ Based on your experience with the Holley setup, I'm completely confident in your abilities to work with the installation/datalogging/tuning of any one of the aftermarket EFI systems.
  7. Aww, but it was all ready to roll for Megasquirt with the 02Again trigger wheel and EDIS! Call the guy back and say you want the MS box after all! JK, I'm sure you'll be equally happy (albiet poorer) with a Haltech too. Good luck with the new high pressure install!!!
  8. Yes, at least I think we're talking about the same thing. My 1.75ms includes the ~1.0ms it takes for the injector to fully open, then an additional 0.75s of fully-open spray-time. I always use 1ms for opening time for Bosch injectors. But that's why I want generally want to see at least 2ms of total time at idle. to minimize the impact of any fluctuations of that opening time latency.
  9. Sorta on this topic, I see that Metric Mechanic still lists 245 rebuilds; does this mean that they have a stash of bearings, or is that something that's not really included in their rebuilds?
  10. I like the sound from the front bumper view best, though for the overall visuals I agree the internal view where we can see the steering inputs is my preferred way to watch. Nice smooth inputs by the way @mlytle What's that wonderful data acquisition and track/speed overlay that you're using? Love that, want my own!!
  11. This is basically true, but I'm just considering it because 1.) I'm already running Megasquirt, 2.) I have a Lynx sitting in the garage, and 3.) I don't think anyone's tackled this particular setup yet, so might be a fun challenge. But yeah if you're starting from scratch, might as well go dual TBs. Truth be told, there is one reason I haven't actually plunged on this project yet, and that is because current MS2/Extra code won't let you run semi-sequential with EDIS; and I still really like my EDIS! Still, maybe one day. . .! Sorry for the sidebar, back to our original topic; what was it again?
  12. I don't really think fuel pooling is actually your problem, but regardless I agree the sniper should work on the Lynx. Only trick might be clearance, especially with the normal non-tii brake booster, but my gut says it can probably fit. And yes since it's high pressure TBI, I'd think the fuel delivery will be just fine with once caveat. The Sniper injectors are on the high pressure side of the throttle plates, correct? On rapid closing of the throttle, you might get a small dribble going back 'up' the intake direction as any mixture in the airstream 'bounces' off the closed throttle plate, and then not much help from gravity to get it back 'down' towards the head, but I don't think this will be at all significant nor cause any problems for you. I've given a LOT of thought to this topic as I still have a Lynx manifold keep thinking about trying it one day with a DCOE-style TB and Megasquirt. My conclusion so far is that it should probably work, but injector sizing is critical. Here's what my first attempt will look like if I ever get around to it: 1.) 2x 42# 'green top' Bosch injectors would be the right size to start; should flow enough for 150HP without making the idle injection times too ridiculously short (by my calculations it'd be about 1.75ms, slightly less than the recommended 2.0ms unfortunately, but probably still OK) 2.) Megasquirt configured for 4-cyl semi-sequential injection, bank 1 for cylinders 1/4 and bank 2 for cylinders 2/3. Since the Lynx ALSO ties together these cylinders, one injection squirt every 360 right at TDC will mean that one of the paired cylinders will then be on it's intake stroke and thus take the whole gulp, and then the opposing cylinder will get the next gulp 360 degrees later.
  13. Although this may be 'correct' it seems to me that would make things significantly harder to get in as a DIY job; with the lock strip out of the way you have a lot more wiggle room to get everything squoze into place! Plus I doubt there's any harm functionally to installing the lock strip after the fact, especially since that's what those tools are for. Just my thoughts!
  14. I like Paul's idea of freewheel testing the pump, but if that all seems in order and you have the pan off anyway, I would think at the very least a quick visual inspection of the crank bearings would be a good idea. I highly doubt you'll find a problem, but just-in-case/for-peace-of-mind, you know?
  15. Are you using the string trick? IIRC: A.) Put the seal around the edge of the glass. B.) Run a piece of string inside the seal groove where the frame is supposed to go. C.) With helper, Lift the glass/seal over the trunk, set it on the lower lip of the frame, and wiggle/push it down to get the seal seated on the lower lip. D.) Helper outside the car, you inside the car. Helper pushes glass into rough position, while you start pulling on the string so that it pulls the inner lip of the seal over the frame. Work up both sides (both ends of the string) and then across the top. E.) Lots and lots and lots and LOTS AND LOTS of Windex at all of the above steps!
  16. Also if you spend much time working in the engine bay, I've noticed that the blue can become black pretty quickly. . .
  17. Good link that @2002iii found; I'd suggest you verify both your firmware version is one of the more recent versions and also check that throttle shaft vs. IAC positioning at idle!
  18. I doubt you'll have this problem though, most 2002s I've seen tend to have a bit of a saggy ass compared to the front and generally benefit from thicker rear spacers to get rid of the German Shepard stance (mine included). OT, but @Mike G +10 for painting your valve cover though! I always love me some extra color in the engine bay. Looks Taiga-ish, albeit on a Mint car, yes? I think I went with Mopar's 'Grabber Green' as the closest to Mint I could find for my intake manifold.
  19. If you can't fix it, how about one of these puppies in the fasten seat belt dash pod? For $3 might be worth trying out! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Digital-Led-Electronic-Time-Clock-Hot-Control-4-digit-DIY-Kit-For-Car-12V-/142998403328
  20. I do like how they 'hid' the hour hand on that one to make it look correct!
  21. Yikes, glad nothing really bad happened!
  22. It's. . . Ok. I think it's actually pretty good (small, simple 15 jewel thingy), but I don't think they're really dialed in for accuracy at the factory. Both mine I've needed to open up and tweak the speed a bit, but the consistency at least seems pretty stable, just a question of getting adjusted properly.
  23. So I've been a fan of the affordable single-handed mechanical watches from the Belorussian company Luch for a while, but they recently came out with a new model that I particularly love because it bears such a remarkable resemblance to the 2002 tachometer! I got the 71951776, but truth be told the 777 or 779 might have been the even better option. Anyway, thought I'd share! https://luch.by/kollektsii/odnostrelochnik/

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