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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. Well, after a nice chat with the guys at Top End Performance, I'm waiting on a quote from them for a TWM/Borla throttle body and all the various other bits of hardware in order to try this! (Jenvey TBs apparently don't have vacuum nipples on them!?!) Assuming I decide to go through with it, I'll probably start a blog for the project. So thanks everyone for your input!
  2. That one might have actually been a chipmunk, @TobyB! I looked it over this morning and while I really like the idea, I'm a little concerned there just isn't that much 'meat' in the runners near the mounting flanges, but not saying it's impossible! There's two tapped bosses in the top of the manifold that might actually work pretty well, but after shopping around on their website a little more, I think the starting point is just going to be running a choke cable to the extra cable fitting on this Jenvy linkage: https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-and-components/linkages/tb-linkage-kit-double-cld2-tbo1
  3. Well crap, thanks Jim, guess that puts me back to modifying the manifold in order to do it the 'right' way. I'll take a close look at it this weekend to see if there's an easy/minimalist way to accomplish that. Thanks again guys!
  4. SORT of; it certainly was for anything with a plenum manifold, but tbh I really don't know how any OEMs used to do it with the few rare ITB setups. Anyone know how an E30 M3 or E34 M5 handles cold idle speed? In modern cars with drive by wire, it's all done with the actual throttle plate itself, since it's controlled by the ECU. What I need is the 'in-between' solution, if one exists!
  5. Yep, primarily! I don't really expect it to be as good as a normal ITB setup, and may eventually go that route, but as I already HAVE the manifold, yeah I pretty much just want to try it and see if I can make it work. I have been thinking about IAC some, but it's still rather last on my list. If I decide to try this, I'll want to get it done and driving first, and then if good enough to be 'keepable' I'll go back and work on implementing IAC. I've had two ideas for this: 1.) MS covers all the cold enrichment easily, so it's *just* a question of getting in additional air while cold. The simplest solution will probably be to put in a simple, old fashioned choke cable that I can use to just pull the throttle open a little during warmup, and then push it off and let the throttles fully close once warm. 2.) In my current setup, I have a working idle control stepper motor, and MS allows full control over the stepper position based on temperature. Assuming I can figure out a way to mount it, shouldn't I be able to use a similar stepper motor to just push on the linkage, as opposed to pushing the air control pintle in/out?. . .
  6. Thanks Jim! Knew I could count on you! MS had pretty good accel/decel enrichment settings, so it'll take done trial and error but should be able to get that dialed in I think. Is that the biggest difference between mpi and tpi? Just accounting for the increased runner length during transitory throttle? And yes the Lynx pairs 1&4 and 2&3, which I think is why this will probably work, as oppressed to something with a Siamese port configuration, that I expect world be MUCH more difficult.
  7. Hey for any followers, after reviewing some recent datalogs I've been surprised to discover that up at peak power, I'm starting to push 100% duty cycle on my 19# injectors and as such am going to replace them with 21# injectors instead. My car has 9.5:1 pistons, and E12 head, and 284 cam. I didn't really think this would be good for much more than 130HP but apparently the engine IS wanting that much fuel, so I'm obliging! But a word to the wise for anyone else running the yellow-top injectors, you might want to see what your duty cycle looks like to make sure you're not running up against the same wall I am!
  8. I guess you should try to not 'use' those bumpers too much now! Look great though, enjoy! And @esty, price summary is in the last pic.
  9. So I'm getting the urge to go play with induction again, and this is an idea I've had for quite some time now and I might be getting closer to pulling the trigger on the experiment. But first I wanted to garner some of the opinions and ideas for overcoming a few of the hurtles from the rest on the tinkering group here. @TobyB, @Chamonix72, @stevek @Dudeland, looking at you guys! As for the starting point, I already have MS2 w/EDIS running great with the 318i manifold, but I also still have the old Lynx manifold languishing in a box. I think I'd like to try getting a single-sidedraft style throttle body for it and seeing how well I can get Lynx-EFI running! I realize the challenges involve (more on that shortly), but figure if I really can't get it to work I can either go back to the 318 manifold, or 'continue on' with a second TB to the conventional dual ITB setup. But as I have the Lynx, don't have a dual manifold, and don't think it's been done yet, I want to give this a shot first. Challenges: Assuming I'll just lose idle air control. I think most with ITB setups don't have this either, and I think I'm OK with the loss of this functionality. Hopefully no big deal. IAC stepper motor wiring harness will just get tied up out of the way. MAP signal - again a common issue for ITBs but I think most get it to work just fine. As there's a vacuum port near each throttle plate on most bodies, I figure I can use one for the FPR and one for the MAP signal to MS. With two cylinders tied together to each, my guess is this will be a 'better' signal than that from an individual runner, and I might not need to even bother with tying the two together or a small accumulator. Brake booster clearance - fortunately Jenvey makes a REALLY short TB, giving me much more room to play with air horns/filters/etc., so this would probably be a good choice: https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-and-components/throttle-bodies/dcoe-style-30mm-long/tbody-dcoe-40-50mm-vshort-tssxxi Injectors - Here's the real crux of things, and the one that might prevent things from ever being quite optimal. As I'll be feeding two cylinders with just one injector, they'll need be pretty big, essentially double conventional port injectors. I think the 'right' size would be these 42lb/hr green top injectors: https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/collections/ford-car-rebuilt-injectors/products/fic-rebuilt-ford-42-lb-green-top Is it as simple as 'double' the port injector size? My current 19s are great, so I'm assuming anything in the 39-42# range ought to be just right, but 39ers are much tougher to find than these 42ers. Setup up as 2 squirts/cycle simultaneous, I'd get one squirt on each injector every 360 degrees. As the Lynx pairs the cylinders that are 360 degrees apart for me, this SHOULD work just great without needing to go deeper into injection timing: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/configure.htm With the large injectors my pulse width at idle will start getting quite low though, so I anticipate some issues getting idle tuned properly. Are most TBI injectors low impedance? I'm guessing they are, but I don't really want to mess with going that route. But as I'm not that familiar with TB injection, are there other parameters (wall-wetting, etc.) that I need to learn more about to take into consideration? Here's where I'm particularly looking for some additional guidance. Thanks guys!
  10. Mint! But just because I think the lighter shades look better on the smaller 2002s. Of the darker colors, I my opinion is that Jade is the nicest of the dark greens.
  11. This is a good way of looking at things, and a big part of that paradigm shift I was referring to, well said Dudeland! For the urban dweller, current EVs should be pretty darn good. (Though I still maintain, not as good as a bus, subway, light rail, and/or bicycle!)
  12. For comparison, I'll submit my favorite multimeter, with is analog rather than digital; I personally find it MUCH easier to read a slightly wavering needle than the ever flickering/changing numbers on the digital models. On the flipside, you DO need to set the correct range, but that's why I like this one in particular because on the 25VDC range, the 12.5V that cars operate at is dead in the middle! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IEFC8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. This is the key reason why it can't and won't happen. Sure the market share will grow, and everything will inevitably be electrically driven, but it won't really 'take over' until there is infrastructure that allows us to bypass the storage issue. Like, say, an overhead or in-ground electrical supply pickup along all of the interstates (think like how a subway or commuter train works). Batteries will just never be able to cut it, for several reasons. Mainly, the energy density is too low. The best lithium batteries are still less than 1 MJ/kg, compared to liquid fossil fuels that are >40 MJ/kg, there's just no contest. Secondly, they're not really getting much better. The original iphone of over a decade ago would run basically all day and then you'd need to charge it overnight. Today's phones. . . same story. An order of magnitude improvement is unreasonable to expect. (But hydrogen fuel cells DO have an energy density somewhere in the 30s MJ/kg, so those are still a viable option, albeit with the safety challenges). Thirdly, we simply can't mine enough Lithium (along with the necessary cobalt and nickel) to be able to just replace the 260 some odd million vehicles on the US roads, let alone the world (granted it always amazes me that we can somehow get enough oil for all of them, but still, the challenge of scale is HUGE). Don't get me wrong, personally I really like electric vehicles, plan to own one in a few years, and do think they are the path of the future. But I think it's really important not to loose sight of the big picture. Yes Teslas are really cool and work pretty well. But not everyone can have one, and they're not really conducive to our current lifestyles. I know several owners and none of them has one as their ONLY car; they all have a 'regular' (usually a big SUV) car for family trips and such, and commute in the Tesla. Better than driving the Suburban to work? You bet! But no one is giving up those Suburbans yet either (unfortunately). My point is a paradigm shift is needed along with technology development before fossil fuels will ever really start to take a back seat. If in 5-10 years it turns out I'm dead wrong, I'll happily acknowledge it, (I though for SURE SD cards were going to supplant CD/DVDs for media storage, and never saw the streaming thing coming!) but for now I'm standing by my analysis that 50 is far more likely. I've said it before, but it's worth reiterating here, as the environmental aspect always comes up in such discussions. Anyone that genuinely, truly cares about the environment drives neither a gas nor an electric car to work; they either ride public mass transit or a bicycle. It really saddens me how true this statement is!
  14. I'm officially deeming this an unreliable source due to its glaring omission of the critical 079 Mintgrun paint code!
  15. By far my current favorite is the 14point7 Spartan 2, for the quality, price, and better LSU 4.9 sensor: https://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-lambda-controller-2 I like an oil pressure gauge, but find oil pressure to be rather redundant; really I can tell how warm my oil is based on the pressure at various engine speeds, particularly idle, now that I'm accustomed to it. That said, I only bothered with the pressure gauge after rebuilding the engine. If I hadn't done that, maybe temperature would've made more sense. As for A/F ratio, I didn't want to find the space for it (put the pressure gauge in the nook to the left of the cluster), so my solution was to built a little LED bargraph into the gutted fasten seat belt pod. Fairly simple circuit but slightly tricky to make the DIY board compact enough to fit it all in that space (AFR is on the left and battery voltage is on the right, looks like I need to hook up the charger!):
  16. Good for you, that's really their proper/intended use anyway!
  17. Yes and no, those F1 style electric turbos are still primarily driven by the exhaust gas stream, they just use the electric motor to spool the turbine up faster to help avoid the lag which would otherwise be present with a good sized turbine. More of a 'hybrid' turbo as opposed to the all-electric Torqamp gadget.
  18. Walnut Creek is a pretty nice little town where my favorite bicycle shop (Rivendell Bicycle Works) happens to be located. . . probably doesn't help solve your mystery much but if it works smoothly and is reasonably accurate my only conclusion is that they did a pretty good job!
  19. Gotta think things through logically; thermodynamics clearly say this won't work that well. A conventional turbo is essentially extracting work from the high temperature and pressure that the engine has ALREADY created from the exothermal chemical reaction and AFTER the majority of the work has been extracted from the Otto cycle. So aside from some additional pumping losses, it's basically extracting additional work from the 'waste' energy through the turbine process, and overall efficiency increases: more work output for close to the same energy input. (Interesting aside, the engines on the Titanic used this same concept: two reciprocating steam engines turned the outer two screws and the low-pressure steam exhausted from them was then used to drive a low pressure turbine that turned the center screw, raising both the power output and efficiency of the ship.) Now let's examine the electric compressor: how does this electric turbine get it's energy? From electricity (at a small efficiency loss). Where does this electricity come from? The alternator. How does the alternator make electrical power? It converts it from mechanical power (at another loss, of course). Where does the mechanical power come from? It's sapped from the Otto cycle of the engine (again at a loss), which is roughly equivalent to what a supercharger does, but with the additional losses involved with going through the mechanical-to-electrical-and-back-to-mechanical conversions that the supercharger bypasses, granted being electrical it no longer needs to be tethered to engine RPM, so that's kinda nice. But the to recap: Will it make more power? Sure, it allows you to burn more fuel, so yeah it'll make more power. Is it better than a supercharger? Probably about the same. Less efficient, but can operate independent of engine RPM, so let's call this one a wash. Is it better than a turbocharger? No chance, far less efficient and at only 48V can't operate at anywhere near the operating spectrum of a conventional turbo, plus with the batteries, I'm reasonably sure it's overall heavier. They didn't seem to put an intercooler on with it, which tells me it doesn't raise the intake pressure enough to warrant it. If it could, then it would still need an intercooler just like a regular turbo. So no, it's still inferior in pretty much every way. What would I spend my $2500 on if I wanted more power? ITBs obviously; they look better, sound better, are far less complicated, and are just plain more elegant than any of the above!
  20. Hidden kill switches are my favorite anti-theft device, but that said a highly visible steering wheel lock is clearly a great deterrent due to its obviousness. I think the basic 'Club' works in an 02, but sadly I don't know specifically of anything fancier than that to recommend.
  21. As long as you still have the 2002 also, I see no problem with 911 ownership. Having *only* a 911 with no 2002 fallback is not how I would ever choose to live life, but if you can have and drive both, then that's fantastic, have fun! The sound of that aircooled engine unencumbered by the downdraft IDAs is definitely the one of the most enjoying parts of that car!
  22. Ok, great, if you want to make the wiring better and safer, here's how to do it. I'll refer you to my article on the topic at the bottom, but it's more geared for 12-fuse models, so might still be worth reading but I'll make things easier for you and cut to the chase: you want to change things as follows: - Use the dash and stalk switches to control relays, instead of the lights directly. - Use relays to switch the high current power from the battery to the lights. - Add fuses in the high current circuits to protect things. Rather than re-type it, here's a link to explain how a relay works: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/howrelayswork.html Now, here's my basic improved circuit (for 12-fuse models) that we want to emulate on your car: Now to make this work on your car: - The red wiring from the battery will remain the same, run a new wire straight from the positive battery terminal for this (at least 10 gauge). - Use the existing wires going to the lights (I think solid yellow for low beams and solid white for high beams) to trigger the relays, labeled as the +12V Switches in my diagram. - Run wires from the relay outputs (terminal 87) with fuses in them to the headlights. - If you find these junctions right here where the wires split to the two sides, I think this would be a great spot to cut/disconnect them and use the 'back' half coming from the switches to trigger the relay coils, and then put fuses in the 'front' halves and use them to go from the terminal 87 output to the lights. If the wiring is in good condition, re-using these factory wires will make the installation much easier (as you won't need to run new wires) and it will make it easier to troubleshoot in the future, as it will still closely match the factory wiring diagram and the colors will still be correct. Does this make sense? I like to add these nice looking little fuse blocks for stuff like this, rather than splicing in a bunch of inline fuses, but the inline stuff is of course a bit easier to hide, so that's your call: https://www.amazon.com/ZOOKOTO-Blade-Board-Standard-Holder/dp/B07B7FQ86K The full article, as promised, in case you're bored: If anything is unclear or you have further questions about any of this, please feel free to ask, I'm more than happy to help make sure you get this done correctly and safely!

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