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AustrianVespaGuy

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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. Might be interested, got any pictures of it outside of the bag, or even better opened up/wear measurements?
  2. Oooh, while I agree Florida is an absolutely WONDERFUL color. . . is it really green? I suppose it does seem to have some green in it but to me in pictures it always seemed more in the white/grey 'family' than green. What's the paint sticker call it, Floridagrun, or just Florida? Promise I'm not intending to be argumentative here, honest curiosity as I've seen so few in real life!
  3. Looks great, but what does the spring bear against? Are you drilling/tapping into the fuel pump pushrod in order thread the setscrew into the rod?
  4. So the prettiest green I think I've ever seen in my life was on a 3.0CS and the paint sticker called it 'Tundra.' That said if we're talking 2002s then the right answer is always, and can only every be, Mintgrun!!!
  5. Well you're certainly not wrong, it's totally unnecessary and using some sort of distributor-based trigger is certainly easier. I just REALLY like the cleverness of repurposing the now-vestigial fuel pump lobe as it's perfectly suited to this task: signaling just one t per cam revolution!
  6. Even that *kinda* wouldn't matter. At least with almost all ECUs I know of, once the engine starts and you get good sync with the cam signal, even if you then loose the cam signal while the engine is still running it stays sequential as it can just count crank rotations. At least I know MS will throw a 'cam fault' error, but it won't drop back to wasted/batch if the crank signal stays good. Needs to be able to RE-sync on the next startup of course, but just loosing cam signal at high RPM from shaft float should be kinda meh-no-big-deal.
  7. @veronatii If that's an 8mm rod you're using, would not one of the M8-bodied sensors also work?
  8. 117 Euro ain't cheap but gets you up to 248F. . . https://xecro.com/shop/inductive-high-temperature/ihtd6-s2anc45-a2s/
  9. Ooohh, I LOVE this, good find! I'm slightly worried about oil getting out through that hole in your block off plate, but I'm sure you'll solve that if it's an issue. Also, it does seem that the spec sheet lists operating temperature from -13 to 158F, so. . . we might need to find a more 'robust' candidate, but I might be inclined to take another shot at this also!
  10. Nope sorry, never had reason to as (so far, knock on wood!) the thing has stayed leak-free and effective at exchanging heat! I sure hope you didn't just jinx me. . . XD
  11. Yes, that Spal motorcycle fan delivers just as much and maybe a tad more airflow than any stock blower (based on how well I remember them, been a while since I had a stock one!). Regardless, it's just great for both cabin heat and windshield defrosting!
  12. I'm here to remind all you guys that if your heater box/core is in good condition (aka not leaking and making good hot air) but you just have a dead fan, there's an easy solution that's only $50 and does NOT involve removing the whole heater box!
  13. I did a whole article complete with links to all the parts to make a great bellcrank linkage that then pulls on whatever throttle cable you want. . .
  14. Yeah I agree a VR sensor probably would not work that well, but a Hall triggers nicely off a cam lobe; we've done it in a Slant 6! Adding a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor to an older engine WWW.DIYAUTOTUNE.COM Older engines typically do not have provisions for cam and crank position sensors. Here is an example of adding these on a Chrysler slant six. At least as long as you're not using an aluminum camshaft anyway! XD
  15. IMO opinion either this or a similar hole in the rocker cover with the sensor mounted to trigger off the fuel pump lobe is the better way to go than trying to use the distributor position. I *almost* bored out a head once to try mounting a sensor in place of the fuel pump, but figured a good head was not quite the right part to experiment with. . .
  16. Fair question, and indeed I thought the day would never come, but something went south in the old engine (still haven't figured out what) and after a year of it just sitting in machine shops with no progress I threw in the towel and put a whole new engine in it. But now that it's finally back on the road. . . I actually haven't been driving it much and I've also realized that I (sadly) didn't even miss it that much this past year it was down. So maybe it's finally time to consider moving on to 'the next project'. . .
  17. '75 Mintgrün 2002 "Asterix" for sale in Atlanta GA area, Megasquirt EFI, longtime active FAQer, asking $25k! I think the time has finally come to move on to the next project. Kids + commuting - space are taking a toll, and after finally getting it back on the road after sitting for a year without an engine in it (more on that below) has made me realize I'm just not driving/missing driving it as much as I thought I would. I'm still getting a few odds and ends sorted, but I want to make sure FAQers get first dibs, so putting this up here before I bother even thinking about things like FB marketplace or BaT. Here's the short list: Body is GREAT! Originally Jade but someone sparyed a quick'n'dirty red over top of that, so in 2009 I had it sanded down, fixed the bad spots, and (properly) repainted my favorite Mint. 15 years on it has a few corner chips, etc. but still is straight, shiny, clean, and RUST FREE! Inside the floors have been POR-15ed, FatMatted, and new carpet around that same time that now probably no longer counts as 'new.' Generic but comfy and light cloth sport seats, 3-spoke 320iS steering wheel, and rear shoulder belts. ALL the driveline goodies: Bilsteins with H&R springs, Getrag 245 5-speed, 3.91 LSD, rebuilt steering box, rebuilt stock brakes - I stayed stock so that they still fit under the beautiful 14" Panasports! Currently running on a good-condition stock engine, complemented by the Megasquirt fuel injected 318i intake and Supersprint 4-2-1 exhaust, which sounds just beautiful. Puts 90HP and 100ft-lbs. of torque down to the rear wheels, with a really great torque curve: Also comes with the original/matching engine that I rebuilt in 2009, including the freshly rebuilt E12 head with a NEW 292 cam, BUT was recently pulled due to a bad knock from the bottom end that I just haven't been able to figure out (it's not rod knock, bearings are all fine). I'm sure it's still worth saving though: Great head, good genuine BMW oil pump, good crankshaft, IE 9.5:1 pistons, IE crank pulley/trigger wheel, head, etc. Everything works and I've done many little electrical upgrades and fortunately the details for all of them are available here on the forums since I always post my schematics, etc. A few notable ones include the automatic electric cooling fan, VDO oil pressure gauge, Koito headlights, aux daytime running lights (also function as additional driving lights with the high beams), LED brake and turn signal bulbs, and my personal favorite: the LED bargraph indicator built into the Fasten Seat Belt pod for AFR and battery voltage! Also quite a few extra spares and goodies that can be included with a good offer, such as a Lynx manifold w/matching DCOE!
  18. Thanks for this, probably putting mine up for sale soon (yikes!!!) so this is super helpful!
  19. Somehow I have only one, pretty sure that's supposed to be two! Just the little curved bracket with two screws that goes on the top rear of the front fender to help locate the hood stops as they come down. Thanks!
  20. Having done this job umpteen times by now, and pretty much had a flood of coolant all over the floor every time, I set out to come up with a method of minimizing the mess, and am happy to report to have mostly succeeded using nothing more than an empty gallon jug! I just cut from underneath the handle 'down,' and then 'back' about 3/4 of the way through, leaving about a 1" lip left over. This leaves the bottom half of the jug as a shallow tray, with the handle and top still in tact. The tray side can then easily be shoved up underneath the drivers side of the radiator where the drain plug is. The radiator then drains in to the tray, and the top is sort of like a funnel that directs all the liquid down into your drain pan, avoiding soaking the lower front clip, engine/sump, and subframe (radiator already removed when I took this pic): But that's not all! The same cut jug worked just as well for draining the block from drain port underneath the #4 exhaust port. Nestled nicely between the steering linkage and the subframe, it caught every bit of the stream and directed it straight down into the pan! Obviously having exhaust in the way might make this a little trickier, but I believe would still fit/function just fine. Video of the action for proof; have you ever seen a cleaner 2002 block coolant drain? I haven't, and have searched for one for a while!
  21. It's also not too hard to roll your own, just need to drill/tap a dizzy plug (I think readily available) and bolt a flat piece of plate to it. And FWIW I'm now running the logic-triggered Bosch wasted coil pack from a VW Golf, much easier since it has the high-current drivers built into the coil so no need for an external ignition module, just wire straight up to any Megasquirt!
  22. Don't have any hardware to offer you, but once you round some up contact me and I'll help you with the ECU selection/wiring/tuning process!
  23. Valid questions! Leak-down test will happen tomorrow to confirm, but I *just* put the engine back in after a full teardown and reassembly, so I'm pretty confident I would have noticed anything on the shortblock side that might have caused this, however something like a bent valve or poor valve seat could much more easily have escaped my notice. Should have more confirmation tomorrow though!
  24. Mine seems to have a problem on #4 Gotta be E12 to fit my pistons, don't need a cam but would prefer one with rockers and shafts if possible. Obviously serviceable/not cracked, please! PM me if you got one!
  25. Available? Trying to solve a noise issue and would love to try this to rule out timing chain issues!
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