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  1. Another alternative is Metric Mechanic. I used their unique transmission mount and short shift kit on a 5 speed install 10 years ago and am very happy with the quality and function.
  2. My 02 cents: 10 years ago I embarked on a similar project. Bought the 02 in Seattle and relocated it to Portland as a project for my then high school aged son and I to fiddle with. The goal was to get a solid runner where everything worked well. We went well past that goal, but the things that got us there, in order were: 1) Remedied the shake, rattle and roll by replacing the tires and every single urethane or old rubber part with new rubber in the front and rear suspension, including the steering shaft donut, guibo and differential hanger (I had the differential out anyway). 2) Replaced the front and rear shocks including new ball joints while the struts were out. 3) Fixed the heating/cooling system with a new thermostat, 3 core radiator and electric fan (the mechanical one was hitting the radiator under hard braking). I cleaned up the heater valve and replaced all of the hoses at the same time. 4) Rebuilt the front and rear brakes with all new/rebuilt parts. Zinced the calipers. Replaced the parking brake cables. 5) Fixed the various grounding issues in the instrument cluster so that the gauges worked (better). 6) Replaced the battery. 7) Replaced the clutch master cylinder which was shot. This stuff got me a car that ran reliably. Every single bit of this was accomplished by my son and I. We have average mechanical skills, plenty of tools and decent problem solving skills but none of this required (paid) professional help or special tools. Everything is available on this web site. Lot's of posts, articles and smart people. After all of that, I do what many people do...spent more time and money on the beast. The net is that every single thing is now done (new or rebuilt), except the body work, which I don't care (as much ) about. After the basic stuff above, I replaced all of the door and window seals. Mine were 40 years old and shot. If I did it again, I would use 100% BMW rubber. I used URO for the doors and have never been happy about it. Too stiff. The new seals reduced (did not eliminate) air noise and the car didn't leak when it rained. I eventually had the engine rebuilt. It did one thing that wasn't ideal: blew smoke on high load deceleration. In my case this was heading down a steep hill in 2nd or 3rd, picking up decent speed and taking my foot off the accelerator. I didn't blow smoke on hard acceleration but decided that the motor needed a refresh and went with a much higher torque/horsepower alternative. Again, those two tests can be done without any special skills except a working right foot. While the engine was out, I did put in a 5 speed and LSD, but they were cheap then. Now it's nuts. Also, the speedo had to be recalibrated because I moved from a 3.64 to 3.91 rear end. More money. I'm not sure I'd do this again, but at the time it was relatively inexpensive so why not? Short of the engine rebuild, you should be able to do all of this yourself. And it's fun. Good luck with the project.
  3. You might also check out Metric Mechanic's solution. I've had it installed for 10 years and am very happy with it. One aside: not sure how the owner in the photo made his work without lowering the center bearing. I was eating guibos until I fixed that.
  4. I used Infinity Kappa 6x9s in the back, Rockford Fosgate shallow depth mounted in Kooglwerks pods (very happy with fit/finish) in the front powered by an Alpine bluetooth capable head unit (comes with hands free mike) cde-hd148bt with their plug/play 40 watt mini amplifier which is mounted on top of the head unit. This setup sounds great to my 60 something ears. As mentioned previously, the 2002 is acoustically challenged especially with a sporty engine, free flowing exhaust and all of the windows open. However, the investment in the above was definitely worth it.
  5. I just finished redoing that part with the solution referenced earlier by Esty using T+B self adhesive pile weatherstrip 3/8" x 1/8" Grey available on Amazon for $7.99 for 16'. 3/8" is the width and 1/8" is the pile height. This is designed for screen or storm doors. Some is designed to slide into a track on the door and others are stick on. You want the stick on. I could not find it in any other color than grey but since it's hidden inside the door, you can't see it anyway. Also, this particular brand comes with an adhesive that is very strong. I was concerned that it would not adhere to my old fuzzy seal, which was bonded to a cloth backing and impossible to separate. I cut a small piece and stuck it to fuzzy strip and it was hard to remove it. The adhesive does its job. Here are few photos.
  6. A hydraulic press is the right tool for this job. Hammering on it does sometimes work, but it can also deform the end making the circlip impossible to reinstall. The press is quick and easy.
  7. I had mine repaired and painted at Burnside Collision. They did a great job. You should swing by with your car, though they may be burned out '02-wise after dealing with my car...

    1. duckdudess


      Thanks for the note.What was the extent of the repair?  Collision or rust or both?  Any major panels replaced?

    2. arkleo


      High schooler in a Ranger hit me. Front end collision, (no mechanical damage.) They repaired my nose, (the nose panels were out of stock then,) replaced my front fenders that had small amounts of rust with new fenders from Restoration-Design, a great company from Canada, and were set to paint the front half of the car to blend with the back half-- when I decided that paying for a new set of belt line trim was not what I wanted to do, and instead had them sand the car down, fill in the holes, and do a complete repaint. During this I bought new bumpers and grilles. In short, what went in for a fender bender turned into a complete exterior redo.

      I bet if you showed up in your '02, the owner, Mark, might go pale in the face... 

  8. I'm looking for a shop in the Portland area with experience restoring 2002s. Eventually, I will do the whole body, but right now, I'm going to give a shop a small test by repairing/repainting a damaged driver's door. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  9. I have the same steering wheel on my 1970 '02 and purchased it from Sherman Martinez on this site. He confirmed that it was an early 320is part. Later ones had the plastic spoke covers. When I received it, the horn ring was gone. I used the stock horn ring and the carbon pin that was in the original 2002 steering wheel. When that one disintegrated a few years ago, I replaced it with a different one, part # 32331109750, which I got from Blunttech. Since there are several styles, a little experimentation may be required to find the one that works best. My steering wheel had a hole in the bottom which looked like part of the aluminum casting versus something drilled by a previous owned. I inserted the carbon pin through that hole and and attached it to the horn button. Before doing that, I added a few nylon washers around the carbon pin to space it closer to the horn ring. Similarly, I spaced the blinker switch toward the steering wheel and away from the steering column in order for the canceling arm on the switch to contact the return gizmo on the steering column. Both of these adjustments were required because I did not properly pre-load the steering column after replacing the steering box universal joint. It is supposed to be compressed ~1/4". However, had I done that, the stock 320is steering wheel surround would have needed a shave. While a bit goofy, it works and was simple to implement.
  10. There is a spec for pre-loading the steering column (third photo down) which I didn't do after I reinstalled the steering box after re-habbing the front subframe. That would have solved the problem, but instead I just cut a few spacers and reinstalled the switch with longer screws. Kind of goofy, but it works.
  11. Giving a nod to the 70’s Volkswagen repair manual that spawned countless others, my post is a distillation of several other posts on how to construct half shafts that work with the installation of an e21 LSD in your ’02. In all cases, the e21 parts referenced are the “later” e21 parts. In my case, I believe that they came from a 1980 320is. Other posts and reference material cite differences in dimensions of “early” half shafts, CV joint bolts and differential widths. See the end of this article. Primary problem: stock 2002 half shafts (CVs plus axle) are too short with a e21 LSD installed. Why: the LSD is ~10mm narrower. Secondary problem: the inner 2002 CV won’t bolt to the later LSD. Why: because the LSD uses 10mm bolts and the 2002 CV uses 8 mm bolts. Solution: Use later e21 half shafts, replacing the outer e21 CV with a 2002 CV. This allows the inner CV to bolt directly to the LSD output shafts and the outer CV to bolt directly to the wheel input shaft. The 2002 CV is used without the cupped washer that comes on the stock half shaft. The inner CV has a ¼” (6.5mm) spacer between it and the LSD output shaft. That’s it. Of course, you should take everything apart, clean and inspect the CVs and re-grease them. New CV boots and clamps finish off the project. The taking apart can be facilitated if you have a hydraulic press. A couple of the CVs nearly fell off with a light tapping, but a couple needed persuasion. I found a friend with a press which reduced the stress on the axle shaft ends that results from banging on it. Just make sure the circlips are removed first. Details I took a number of measurements of the e21 and 2002 parts. I also took some photos. What I learned was that the stock 2002 half shaft and the hybrid shaft described above are exactly the same length (see photo), yet the e21 LSD is 10mm narrower than the stock 2002 differential. This can be seen in the photo of the two differentials sitting side by side with a level on top to the 2002 output shaft. It’s sitting on a shoulder that is ~1mm-~2mm higher than the mounting surface, but you get the idea. The spacer mentioned above closes this gap. I had spacers that were 6.5mm each (1/4”), so I used them. I would have preferred to use 3/16” or 5mm, but I couldn’t find any, so I went with what I had. The ¼” variety are readily available from all of the well know ’02 suppliers. More details The cages and balls in the e21 and 2002 CV were identical. The axle shafts were not. The 2002 shafts were shorter end to end (top shaft in photo), but interestingly also had longer splined ends which I surmise is why they used the cupped washers to take up the space required to secure the CV with the circlip on the end of the half shaft. If you try to use the cupped washer on the shorter splined 320i axle, there is no way to install the circlip. I tried. Extraneous stuff I wanted to use Oetiker clamps on the dust boots which came with a prior rebuild kit. These are single use items, but low profile and very secure. I couldn’t find them at any of the local auto parts shops, so I ordered them from a metric parts house: Belmetric.com. Part # 16300029 on the CV end of the dust boot and # 16700042 on the axle end of the dust boot. These require special pliers to install and given that the local auto parts store no longer carried the clamps, they also no longer loaned out the pliers required to install them. Instead, I borrowed a pair of my friend’s pricey Pex clamp pliers which worked perfectly. The $12 Home Depot variety didn’t work (well). I also ordered conical lock nuts for the 8mm outer 2002 CV bolts. They’re called stover nuts and have oblong looking holes. These are lower profile than conventional nylock nuts and are what were used on the stock 2002 drive shaft flanges. They are <1/2 the price of the BMW versions. Bel-Metric’s parts were shipped express, so I had them in 2 days. Pretty good service and the parts were just as expected. The back story I started all of this because I wanted to fix a leaking LSD rear cover. When I originally did this conversion 10 years ago, I used a conventional gasket which always leaked, so I decided to use Permatex Ultra Black on the do over. While preparing to remove the LSD, with the car on jack stands, I noticed that the differential output shaft on one side was pulled out of the differential by 1/2”. There was a huge gap between the output shaft dust cover and the differential which kind of freaked me out. This only seemed to occur when the wheels were up in the air and their weight pulled the output shafts part way out the differential. The same thing might happen if an energetic driver got the car airborne, which it turned out my son had. It explained the splatter of Redline dripping off the differential onto my garage floor. What was most amazing about this was the discovery that when I originally did the LSD install and the half shaft conversion, I used the 2002 half shafts, which from the photos above, are much shorter. And yet the car ran around for 10,000 miles without any (obviously) adverse effects. Is there a lesson here? Just do it whatever and it will probably work? Maybe, but the great news with this site is that after I did the conversion the first time, a lot more intelligent questions were asked, with knowledgeable answers given, which helped me to get this done right the second time around. So, thanks to the FAQers who preceded me in answering questions and documenting their projects. I’m happy to add my story to the list. Parts List Quantity Description 1 2002 half shaft – only need the 2 CV joints, save cupped washers for another project 2 e21 half shafts – need 2 axles and 2 CV joints from later year 2 3/16” or ¼” spacers 12 10mm x 65mm Allen head bolts 2 Half shaft rebuild kits (2 dust boots, 2 large and 2 small Oetiker clamps, 1 tubes grease) Good references, with more detail, are : Ireland Engineering Differentials article: http://www.bmw2002.com/documents/bmw-2002-differentials.pdf 2002 FAQ post (see “Gil by the way of Gary” text): 2002 FAQ post, e21 Diff Install with 320i Inner CV Joints: 2002 FAQ Post, How to Replace a Differential: View full article
  12. Giving a nod to the 70’s Volkswagen repair manual that spawned countless others, my post is a distillation of several other posts on how to construct half shafts that work with the installation of an e21 LSD in your ’02. In all cases, the e21 parts referenced are the “later” e21 parts. In my case, I believe that they came from a 1980 320is. Other posts and reference material cite differences in dimensions of “early” half shafts, CV joint bolts and differential widths. See the end of this article. Primary problem: stock 2002 half shafts (CVs plus axle) are too short with a e21 LS
  13. The note above above 3M Black Trim Adhesive with EPDM rubber is the key. I went back and forth with 3M tech support, who were very responsive, and that is what they suggested. The yellow variety is for different rubber and did not work on the URO seals not matter how clean, abraded, etc. the paint and seal were.And if you don't like the result, the 3M adhesive remover takes it all off and did not hard my paint.
  14. I recently recovered a set of e21 Recaros for use in my 1970 2002. The rear seat was in great shape with black factory basketweave vinyl. I wanted to match the pattern with the recovered seats in the front and began to research the alternatives. The goal was to find a source with as close a match as possible, both in pattern and feel. The feel is subjective since the original vinyl on the rear seat was somewhat hard after 50 years as was the passenger's front seat, but the weight/quality of the original vinyl was noticeably different than that used when I previously had the driver's seat recovered locally. I contacted several suppliers, received samples from each and eventually selected #1010S Black basketweave from GAAH in North Hollywood. I also used their smooth vinyl #0005 Black. It felt the best, my calipers measured it as the thickest and the pattern, while not exactly the same as the original, was close enough that without a close inspection, it looks like a good match to the original rear seat. More on that difference below. I considered these sources: BMW - they still sell the basketweave vinyl. The sample was 1 yard which was the minimum quantity. It was OK, but no better than any of the domestically produced vinyl alternatives. A FAQer got a good price on the resale. World Upholstery - 150 Basketweave. Pattern was fine, embossing a little faint, material weight similar to other domestic choices (lighter weight). Global Upholstery - R120 Basketweave. Very similar to GAAH vinyl. Slightly more distinct embossing. Looked almost the same thickness as GAAH, but maybe a little thinner and I liked the feel of the GAAH better, Also, while I called and spoke with Global Upholstery, I received the sample and business card from Steven Sperling who has an eBay store called zoomzoomzoom-ing. Lots of forum discussions that raised some concerns. GAAH - #1010S Black Vinyl ""Basketweave" looked and felt the best and their smooth vinyl #0005 is also a very close match to the original. This basketweave was the highest priced at ~$75/yard. However, the material is not a major cost in the job, it's the labor. No surprise. GAAH also has an "In House" basketweave pattern, but it must be intended for other Euro cars because it's not even close to the BMW version. A couple of notes for those of you that have basketweave seats and are considering a recovering project. - The primary difference between all of these patterns and the original vinyl pattern is that the original has vertical seams or lines every couple of inches that may have simulated what actual stitching may have looked like had then been used. None of the patterns I found, included that sold by BMW had that feature. - The basketweave has an orientation. If you look closely, there are rectangular bar between the divots. The original seats had the long part of the rectangles parallel to the sides of the seats. So running front to back on the seat bottom and bottom to top on the back. I mention this because it apparently takes 2X the replacement material to sew them like this, but if you don't, or don't tell the upholsterer, you're going to get fronts that don't match the backs, which defeats the whole purpose. Last, as many before me have testified, a shout out to Dave Varco is warranted. He did the seat work and it is truly spectacular. They feel and look like they are new. I would never send a set of seats, or refer a friend, anywhere else. View full article
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