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duckdudess

Solex
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  1. I agree with Blunt and others about the ease of installation of the OEM rubber bushings. $5 worth of parts from the hardware store and the in and out is not a big deal. With that said, a couple of caveats. I assembled the contraption with all-thread, washers, nuts and PVC as described above. The old bushings, which were in bad shape, came out without difficultly. The new ones, even with a 30 ton press, would not go in. Prior to the press, I tried using my Chinese vice and a long persuader on the vice handle, and snapped the vice.Turns out that they were the wrong ones, even though the part # was correct. An exchange corrected the problem and they went in without difficultly using the method described. Interestingly, this thread seems to be focused on the choice of bushing material based upon its ease of installation. I'd submit that the choice should be made based upon the intended use of the car. My '70 came with a poly steering coupler and motor mounts. The steering wheel vibration at 3000 RPMs drove me nuts, so I removed them. Vibration went away. Subsequently, I had the motor rebuilt (2.3L stroker) and completely refreshed the front suspension. Everything. Stock springs, Bilstein HDs, new ball joints and I chose OEM parts for the ST sway bars mounts (used the urethane links that came with them), the steering coupler, control arm bushings, motor mounts and rear subframe mounts and anywhere else that was originally rubber. I'm quite happy with the result mostly because the use of rubber fit my use of the car. It's a well sorted out street vehicle. Not used on the track or for auto cross where a less forgiving suspension might matter. So, I'd think about what you want to accomplish with the car and then refit it appropriately.
  2. I'm looking for a e21 rear axle to complete my LSD install. Just the axle... I don't need the CVs, but would be happy to take the whole half shaft to save you the trouble of dissasembly. The axle I have has been abused to the point so that I cannot install the snap ring. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm in Portland.
  3. My problem: a small leak in the LSD cover required removal of the LSD which required that the inner CV joints/half shafts be unbolted. In the process, before unbolting the left inner CV, I noticed a ~1/2" gap between the axle stub dust cover and the LSD. Essentially, the stub had pulled partially out of the carrier when the car was jacked up and the wheels were dangling from the rear subframe. My suspicion is that I had used the 2002 axles, instead of the longer 320i axles, when I rebuilt the half shafts to accommodate the LSD, resulting in an axle that was too short, even tough I had used the prescribed 1/2" spacer. The photo below shows (on the left) what I believe to be an original 2002 half shaft, although the CVs look different than the 2002 CV on the rebuilt unit on the right. Also, for comparison, I placed a known 320i axle to the far right of the two half shafts. Both assembled half shafts are compressed. The left stays compressed because everything is old and tired, the right one is lubed and loose and the rubber boots spring it out a bit but the length difference, even with the spacer in place on the right, is ~3/4". So I think I've been running around with short half shafts for the last 15K miles. So, my questions: 1) Is the left half shaft from an '02? CV joints look different (they have the beveled edge). Just curious. 2) Is the right rebuilt half shaft also likely an '02 axle (i.e. too short)? 3) If yes, should these '02 axles be replaced by the known 320i axles? A previous commenter mentioned that it doesn't really matter which combination of parts are used, but to me, that ~1/2" gap seems to be too big for safe long term use. 4) How likely is this to have screwed up the CV joints? Typical indications of terminal wear on the bearings/races? 5) Do the 4 ridges on the known 320i axle have any directional orientation (i.e. wheel side or LSD side) on the half shaft? Thanks for the help!
  4. Well, I had the same experience, with the same Curt I radiator, only my motor mount bracket had the properly adjusted limiter. It didn't help. I never figured out why and after fiddling around with the fan and a heat gun to modify the fan blades, I finally decided to just eliminate the problem and ditched the fan. The electric version is mounted in front of the radiator, does the job and cured the problem. The write up is/was in the FAQ technical article engine section.
  5. How many miles are one the car? Can you describe the extent of the engine rebuild, why it was done and who did it?
  6. What is the price for the full set? Can you comment on the condition (dings and dents)?
  7. 1 yard of BMW OEM black basket weave vinyl. Part # 51920140644.
  8. World Upholstery has that pattern in a lighter weight vinyl. I received a sample and it's very close the original. I also received a sample of the GAHH vinyl (pattern R120) and it's a noticeably heavier German vinyl that is a very good match for the original in pattern and weight.
  9. I'm looking for a silver dollar speedo and old style (aluminum) oil filler cap.
  10. I live in PDX and am interested in the gauge cluster if you will sell that separately.
  11. OK,can you send a photo? How much do you want for it?
  12. Looking for an excellent condition new or used driver's door for my 1970 Chamonix 2002. These doors did not have holes for the lower trim clips.


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