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Collinster742002

Solex
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Everything posted by Collinster742002

  1. So glad Vintage went so well! Aside from the sunburn...

  2. Here's mine, it was nice meeting everybody! http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201295112800219.1073741826.1244462356&type=1&l=84657282a1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201297621742941.1073741827.1244462356&type=1&l=5c19efe345
  3. Runs like a dream! Burns a little bit of oil on start up (if it sits for more than a week) and has slight piston slap, but that's to be expected for an engine approaching 40 years old and 160k miles. It has much, much more power than the original engine and loves to get down the road. The old engine's head came off and the bottom end is intact but worn- the head has several deep cracks in #2's combustion chamber. Considering selling the block, original piston sizes and everything so it's definitely rebuildable.
  4. Well she's been home for a while but not being driven often. We sourced a brand new driver's sun visor and are still on the lookout for a passenger's (all sources point to them being NLA). The car is running GREAT and has gobs of power. We're trying to get some hood insulation for her and a sun shade that will fit the little windshield. We're ready for Vintage next month and I am BEYOND excited. Here's a shot of my girls.
  5. I know what you mean! I got the Behr going again in my car after rebuilding the fan motor, and that doggone faceplate broke at the 2 mounting tabs at the top. You just can't win with automotive plastics!
  6. Hey, Mike...what ended up happening with this car?
  7. The car is now going to a shop in Raleigh, called Shade Tree Garage, to be worked on by a guy who knows his 2002's. There were only a few things I didn't have the tools or know-how to do, so it's having the timing and carburetor dialed in and the A/C compressor aligned with the crank pulley (I COULD NOT for the life of me get that right)- and that should be it, it'll be good to go. Hate to have to put it on a tow truck after doing all the work I did, but to drive it with incorrect timing would damage the "new" engine I worked so hard to refurbish and install. We should have it back soon, and it'll become an almost-daily driver for my Dad. His Jeep has been getting 12mpg; my Volvo about 19- we need a car that gets good mileage.
  8. The car has been sitting in the garage due to many things: I chopped my right thumb off Friday afternoon and had to drive to the ER in frozen road conditions. It's also been very cold and nasty weather has been taking place, so I haven't had any time to work on it. However, tomorrow it makes the trip to have the hood aligned properly, hood and trunk foam installed, ignition timing and carburetor dialed in properly, and in the mail I have a flywheel dust cover and ANSA on the way... then it'll be driven 3/5 days of the work week and on weekends. Signing up for The Vintage this weekend... we made it! I've yet to sort passenger side rocker rust through and DS back floor (very poorly repaired), and a small rust hole in the inner DS fender;otherwise the car is solid to my knowledge.
  9. Do you think any of the engines or carburetors are salvageable in that state of corrosion? I've never seen cars that far gone, even the Bavaria I almost got for a first car that sat 15 years under a cloth cover was actually straight. That 02 makes my '76 look like a showroom car. It makes me want to cry! I'm glad you're able to save what you can.
  10. She's a beaut! Thanks for getting her back on the road
  11. Maybe because it's an EARLY 1600-2 and is awesome! Keep up the good work man!
  12. 2, 3, 1 largest to smallest? Isetta's are tiny inside and have the steering wheel in between your legs, surely the others aren't that bad.
  13. Speaking of that, do any of the newer (post-2000) Volvo's have better wipers? I just drove home in the hard snow we're getting and couldn't see a damned thing with the ones on my S70... the wipers on that car are atrocious.
  14. Thanks, Matt! I appreciate it! As for the wheels, they are indeed factory bottle caps that came with this car, the "squaretail" alloys- MAHLE brand 13x5's, not the 13x5.5 turbo wheels. From what I gather the MAHLE ones are harder to come by than the FPS, but both are very rare. As for the piano top pistons, from what I gather they came in engines with E12 heads. I've only taken apart the '74 engine with those and the '76 engine with an E21 head and flat top pistons. I believe "grand piano" tops are the upgrade. Both of these engines had pistons marked 88.97, which is the factory engine bore size for a 2002 engine- so I believe the piano tops are original to that engine. I'm not sure what came in the 121ti head engines, but I think all of them had a slightly different combustion chamber.
  15. Autopsy results are in of the (2) old engines I had, one being the matching #'s just pulled from this car and one being the matching #'s to the Polaris '76. Here's what I found upon cracking open the 74 engine: "Hmm, what made it steam clean #2?" I thought. It did not have a cracked block or any scoring- in fact, the bottom end is perfectly usable as is... I just have no use for it. Upon further investigation, I found that the cylinder head is from a 73 roundie (but still an e12, I think the cutoff was the 72 cars for the 121ti).... So what could be causing severe loss of compression on #2 and steam cleaning of the piston? There must be a crack somewhere.... Yep! The spark plug I put in there was out of the new engine I put in the car- it received all new ignition parts alongside everything else. It was to test pouring gas into the sealed combustion chamber with the valves closed- sure enough, that crack goes so far into the head that the gas came right out the intake, exhaust, water and oil jackets :/ I also took the '76 2002 block I had completely apart. I thought it was a goner for sitting so long, but the bores actually appear to need just a light honing to be usable. Cause of death: improperly torqued head gasket. E21 head is fine but I have no use for it. So in the end, I have: (1) good piano top piston bottom end, with a sludged up, cracked, nasty E12 head that is not repairable. Stored with head off, cylinders all down and full of MMO, covered up well. (1) good rebuild-able '76 block and E21 head... I really have no use for either. I'm happy to report the little 2002 is running very happily and being driven daily finally. My friend saw it and sent me a picture, driven by my mom. He was on the highway afterwards with her doing 90 and having trouble keeping up... And it's racking up miles with the new engine finally. 100+ miles so far. This was after my mom's first trip out... looks like somebody had some fun! It was driven 2 miles with the new engine to get gas and the trip ODO reset afterwards. It's not all sorted, however! Ignition timing and carburetor still need to be dialed in, hood needs to be aligned and foam installed underneath, front end alignment and one thing that's really confusing me: the AC compressor is not in a straight line with the crank pulley. Belt is off for the time being, but when running the car with the belt on it made a nasty squeal. It almost looks to be like the belt has to go like / this. So that's off for now.... I'd love to convert it to a rotary compressor. The old York Piston compressor is a noisy, worn out piece of crap. Cheers and thanks for keeping up with this little car!
  16. It's a fantastic feeling! I'm really glad to have it back on the road. We got the hood back on last night and drove it across town to the store and couldn't help but keep putting the pedal to the medal- the car easily has 30-35% more power than it ever did before. It's an absolute blast. Today I've just got to finish dialing in the carburetor and ignition timing, otherwise she's good to go for a while Oh, and realign the H4's I just put in with Sylvania Silverstars.. they light up good but aren't very helpful pointing like / Here's when I fixed the fact that it was idling at 2000/a walkaround of the car Clicking is due to the ignition timing being slightly off, i soon fixed that.
  17. IT'S ALIVEEEE!!!! Here's some videos First start attempt (distributor too retarded) FIRST START!!! ATF I put in the cylinders initially burning off: First drive:
  18. Price for running lights? Very interested in them!! Posted earlier and got no response. email me with the button or text me at (919)943-5291 please.
  19. Looks like a good project! What are those wheels off of...? I like them!
  20. Amen to the seats thing. Mine are wearing their 220k and 15 years of heavy usage very well (car was a commuter NYC to NC from 98-08) I like the C30 interior quite a bit. It's the exterior, well, the back, that makes me sick. That's just my opinion. On a side note, the black Volvo interiors generally hold up better than tan. (this is true even with the current ones)
  21. Just an S70 owner who has driven just about every other Volvo out there, from a 144 to an xc90... I love the way c30's drive, but they're just so ugly. Now, any other VOLVO owners on here?
  22. New engine is in and the transmission is mated to it. Tomorrow: hook up clutch and bleed it, install exhaust manifold/downpipe, get distributor in and hooked up and set, install radiator/fan shroud and fill with coolant, install driveshaft, rev. light wires, speedo, shifter and trans mount... and see if it runs. It's cranking with the key and building fuel and oil pressure, good sign. Here's some pics of the process! Old one out: Dad having a little fun with the hoist and big piece of dead metal: my my, cover yourself you naked beast! Big rust hole I had to patch in the inner DS fender (look around) Dropping the '75 in (temp. valve cover) Accessories and transmission installed... so close! it even cranks with the key! weird fact... this car has a bolt in battery tray. Was the nose replaced with a '73 and the diving board holes cut out? Look forward to get it running and driving!
  23. Did you torque all of the bolts correctly? Speaking of those, does anybody know the torque specs for the RMS carrier and the Oil Filter Housing? I was unable to find those anywhere in my Haynes manual.
  24. Original Author: Sam Schultz Tools and parts you will need: High-lift jack Medium- to high-lift jack stands 2 wheel chocks 10mm, 13mm socket and box wrench, extension, ratchet, and a swivel makes life easier but is not required. WD-40 or similar razorblade (to scrape old gasket) NEW paper oilpan gasket and ultra grey sealent (Paper gaskets wont seep like the cork ones do). They are available at any independent shop but will have to be orderd. I can get them if you can't. A solid 6x6 timber to go across the shock towers and body molding (make it a longer then you need so it won't slip). You should be able to use a 4x4 too, but this depends on how much you trust the lumber and/or value your life. Some scrap 2x4s about 8" long A piece of chain and 2 strong bolts with nuts and 4 heavy washers A can of brake cleaner Procedure: OK pull the car onto some nice, level concrete (safest materal to work on) and chock the rear wheels (and use your e-brake). Drain the oil. While its draining pull the nuts off the engine mounts. Remove the distributor cap (mark were its suposed to line up) keep the wires attached. This prevents the cap from brakeing on the fire wall when lifting the engine. Connect the chain to the REAR pickup point with one of the long bolts. Lift the car on the center lift point (front sub frame). set the jack stands and remove the 3 bolts holding the end of the down pipe to the center section of the exaust. If the sealing ring isn't cracked, it can be re-used. Now you can pivit the engine without damaging the exaust. Drop the car back down some so that you can lift the engine higher, more easily. Take your high-lift jack and put the 2x4 on it. Line it up sidways on the oil pan, i.e., across so that it passes beyond the sides of the oil pan. this prevents damage to the oil pan when you lift on it. CAREFULLY lift the engine with the jack. WATCH that the fan does not damage the radiator. Your rad hoses should have enough flex in them so you dont have to remove them. On one of the 2 cars I have done this on I did pull the fan off as it was going to hit. Depending on your jack you may have to stop and attach the chain up and over the 6x6, now siting across the shock towers & fenders, and run the chain to the front atachment point (install with 1 bolt the other being on the rear). Watch that you dont lift too far and damage the fire wall or slip off the oil pan. I always stop perodicly and adjust the chain on the 6x6 as a safety measure. OK now that the engine is lifted and supported by the 6x6 you can jack the car back up and return it to the jack stands. Now it makes sence as to why I had you drop the car due to the angle on the engine doesnt it. At this point stop for a drink (preferably non-alchololic), while you are at it get me one too. Next, undo all the 10mm oil-pan bolts. You will have to fenagle the pan down around the front subframe. If you have to you can drop the front subframe (17mm bolts) but dont let its weight be supported by the hardy disk (rubber disk on steering box). Clean up the mating surfaces with the razorblade and wipe down with some brake cleaner on a rag. Clean the oil pan itself with the brake clean to get out any sludge and let dry. Also clean the bolts at this point as they are usualy nasty. This is also a good time to paint the oil pan (outside only!) if you are feeling so inclined. I personaly dont like to mess with the oil pump or tube removal unless I have to, but if you are feeling ambitious you can take the time to check the oil pump, the torque on your crank nuts (sorry I dont have that spec), and even to check main and rod bearings. If you don't already know what this all means, make sure you research thoroughly before proceeding. Once the pan is dry, take the ultra gray and put a fine line going aound the pan. then place the paper gasket on top of it (please make sure the holes line up). Next put a thin line of ultra gray on top of the gasket. You do not need to spreed the ultra gray out as when it meets the block this will happen naturaly and will fill in the holes better. The ultra gray keeps the gasket from sliding and fills in any imperfections in the metal. Get the bolts ready and load one in the wrench. Lift and hold the pan with one hand in place and put the bolts in. Drop the engine in reverse order of how you lifted it, connect everything, change the oil filter and add the 20W50. Now that everyhting is done go for a test drive to the store and buy the beverage you were wanting this whole time. Enjoy an afternoon well spent! Good luck! If you have any questions or comments about this or any article, please feel free to post them to the Message Board!
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