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ClayW

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About ClayW

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  1. I dunno.....some of those E30 guys drive pretty fast.
  2. I'm bringing the family this year, so I'll be driving separately. Toddler and pregnant wife may cause more restroom stops than the caravan will tolerate.
  3. Clay is this engine still available? Im in rockville

    1. ClayW

      ClayW

      Sent you a PM. Email me at clay (dot] weiland [at} gmail

  4. For Sale in Silver Spring, MD - Running 2L M10 No smoke or oil burning. Did a compression test and got ~150psi on all four cylinders. E12 head. Does not come with the alternator, intake or exhaust manifolds, or a distributor. Need a running M10 to get you to Vintage? This one has made the trip and will get you there cheaply!
  5. Looks like it's working now. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/body-and-interior/headliner-installation-r261/
  6. My article for the headliner and windshield installation has photobucket-linked pictures that aren't loading properly. I have no idea how to fix it.
  7. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/equalizer-locking-strip-tool-pa1348-p-34298.aspx?gclid=CPTN3drttM8CFYGBaQodFHgCHQ $23.16
  8. Hey Clay.

     

    Tried to install my glass this weekend but the tool I used did work to well. I needed the one like yours that rolls the strip as it passes.  

     

    Is there any chance that you can lend your (with a deposit I would gladly offer) so that I can try this again?  Please let me know what you think.

     

    Thank you for your time and understanding.

     

    Regards,

     

    Justin (Captain Manly)

  9. Lots have answered, but here's my summation from my experience: You need the shortneck subframe and trailing arms. The halfshafts and stub axles are the same dimensions, though you definitely want the later style halfshafts, which have CV joints on each end.
  10. I have the exact same booster, in working order, cleaned and painted, siting in my garage. I disassembled a stock booster to see what needed swapping and decided that it would be better left to professionals. I would consider, however, chopping and welding.
  11. Clay, nice article on the headliner installation, thanks.  How many hours of labor would you estimate for installing the headliner?

     

    1. ClayW

      ClayW

      Active work time, maybe 10 hours. 

       

      Takes a a few days though. 

  12. No idea how that happened, but I fixed it!
  13. Parts: Windshield Seals Front - p/n 51317440154 Rear - p/n 51311817764 2 X Lockstrips - p/n 51311803265 2 X Lockstrip Cup p/n 51317440106 Materials: Clear Silicone Caulk Spray Bottle of Soapy Water 25 ft. of 3/16” Cotton Rope Masking Tape Tools: Caulk Gun Small Flathead Screwdriver Lockstrip Tool (I used this one from Aegis Tools.) Apparently, AEGIS Tools no longer sells the roller lockstrip tool. You can get it here now: https://www.hitechglazing.com/product/2781009/40273 *The installation steps are identical for both windshields.* 1. Lay the windshield down and slip the seal over the edges. 2. Wrap the rope twice around the seal, pushing it into the slot. Tape the ends against the inside of the glass. 3. Spray the seal edges to soak the rope with soapy water. 4. Lift the windshield and seal into the opening, being careful not to allow the seal to come out. 5. With one person applying pressure from the outside, pull the rope from the inside, being careful not to pull any of the headliner with it. 6. Once the rope has been entirely pulled and the seal is in, use the caulking gun to run a small bead of clear caulk inside the inside and outside edges of the seal. 7. Once the caulking is in, use the lockstrip tool to install the lockstrip. This is a bit of a challenge and requires a little skill. Go slow and be careful. If you have a small section (1” or less) that pops out of the seal, use the small flathead screwdriver to pop it back in. 8. Trim the lockstrip after installation to fit with as small a gap as possible. 9. Slip the lockstrip cup over one end of the lockstrip and use the screwdrivers to pop it in, using the soapy water to help with lubrication. You’re done! Screw in your visors and handles and pat yourself on the back. This post has been promoted to an article View full article
  14. Parts: Windshield Seals Front - p/n 51317440154 Rear - p/n 51311817764 2 X Lockstrips - p/n 51311803265 2 X Lockstrip Cup p/n 51317440106 Materials: Clear Silicone Caulk Spray Bottle of Soapy Water 25 ft. of 3/16” Cotton Rope Masking Tape Tools: Caulk Gun Small Flathead Screwdriver Lockstrip Tool (I used this one from Aegis Tools.) Apparently, AEGIS Tools no longer sells the roller lockstrip tool. You can get it here now: https://www.hitechglazing.com/product/2781009/40273 *The installation steps are identical for both windshields.* 1. Lay the windshield down and slip the seal over the edges. 2. Wrap the rope twice around the seal, pushing it into the slot. Tape the ends against the inside of the glass. 3. Spray the seal edges to soak the rope with soapy water. 4. Lift the windshield and seal into the opening, being careful not to allow the seal to come out. 5. With one person applying pressure from the outside, pull the rope from the inside, being careful not to pull any of the headliner with it. 6. Once the rope has been entirely pulled and the seal is in, use the caulking gun to run a small bead of clear caulk inside the inside and outside edges of the seal. 7. Once the caulking is in, use the lockstrip tool to install the lockstrip. This is a bit of a challenge and requires a little skill. Go slow and be careful. If you have a small section (1” or less) that pops out of the seal, use the small flathead screwdriver to pop it back in. 8. Trim the lockstrip after installation to fit with as small a gap as possible. 9. Slip the lockstrip cup over one end of the lockstrip and use the screwdrivers to pop it in, using the soapy water to help with lubrication. You’re done! Screw in your visors and handles and pat yourself on the back. This post has been promoted to an article
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