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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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On 10/24/2019 at 6:35 AM, xr4tic said:

 

What kind of mounts are you using to attach the lines to the body?  Stock tabs/rubber?

 

Also, how well does that catch can setup work?  looks like it would be restrictive with that adapter in the valve cover.

Exactly as you described. Rubber clamps in places front and rear, but my hard lines do go through the passenger compartment along the same path as the old plastic lines. I preferred that to drilling holes along the way. Originally I wasn’t going to have much in the way of interior...

 

Fitting for catch can has been drilled out. So far so good...will let you know if I get any leaks or pressure buildups. When I had a rubber hose attached it would sometimes pop off. 

1968 1600 ..::.. 1992 Volkswagen Mk2 GTI ..::.. 2010 Mk6 GTI  :blink:

2011 Volkswagen Mk6 GTI "The Daily" :ph34r:   ..::.. 2007 Mercedes ML500 "The Sensible Child Hauler" -_-

1969 1602 "Elsa" :)

follow fotos here: https://instagram.com/sprout3/

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On 10/23/2019 at 4:27 PM, 2002iii said:

Nice AN lines and Fittings,  who made the fuel cell?

 It came from 2002_underground in Oregon. The cell is actually a pyrotect made to their spec.

1968 1600 ..::.. 1992 Volkswagen Mk2 GTI ..::.. 2010 Mk6 GTI  :blink:

2011 Volkswagen Mk6 GTI "The Daily" :ph34r:   ..::.. 2007 Mercedes ML500 "The Sensible Child Hauler" -_-

1969 1602 "Elsa" :)

follow fotos here: https://instagram.com/sprout3/

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Today I installed 5mm front wheel spacers since the tires were super close to the tie rods.  Could barely get a playing card between them

DSC_5285.thumb.JPG.fbb25e165fc953f60ea743bcdda41e78.JPG

 

I'm happy with the wheel clearance now. I was just able to get 8 full turns of the lug nuts so I think I'm OK.

 

DSC_5288.thumb.JPG.d91e7785331595a48cf88308ca8775a3.JPG

 

I also bought some 10mm spacers for the rear but will need longer studs.

 

DSC_5286.thumb.JPG.a6ef550ff4e0875ad406f7621ebe76ed.JPG

 

Unfortunately, I need at least 10mm additional thread length at the rear for them to work. Interestingly, the stud at 10 o'clock is 5mm shorter than the others.  I guess I'll see what is out there in the way of longer studs.

 

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I finally got the door card off on the drivers side and was able to remove the window regulator! Needs some TLC to get it working smoothly. Was also trying to remove the door handles but the screw on the inside didn't want to play ball. Will have to try again tomorrow with some power tools.

 

-Jeffinslaw

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On 10/24/2019 at 8:58 AM, EPK said:

Can you clarify what you mean by "fuel pickup" when referencing the sleeve?

The current hose does have a joint in it. It's a barbed coupler that I could eliminate with a single piece of hose. What i don't like is that the end of that hose simply slides onto the plastic tubing. I can clamp it but I don't want to use much force or I'll simply crimp the plastic tubing so I didn't.

I have some hose clamps that can replace the old ones.

I did order a plastic sleeve/tube but I'm not sure where this would be used. It seems you're suggesting that it connects at the metal pickup but I believe it's too small a diameter to slide over that metal tube.

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The brass fuel pickup that the rubber hose attaches to should have a plastic sleeve on it to make it fit better on the pickup.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/reducer/62161350285/

 

You can cut 3/4 inch of the plastic fuel line there in the trunk and use it as the plastic sleeve for the pickup.

 

Replace the cut hose with a new piece. Use a small fuel clamp on the hose to plastic fuel line connection.

 

 

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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Tried to take my friends 1969 2002 for a shakedown. First the ignition switch takes an early  retirement on me. After 30 minutes upside down under the dash old one came out and new one went in. Then as I pull away the driveshafts start making a nice grinding noise. So now I have to order new driveshaft grease boots and possibly a guibo and center bearing.

 

The moral of the story is when you fix the weakest link inevitably the next weakest link will bare its ugly face and or smack your face. 

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26 minutes ago, Buckeye said:

Excellent job!. Could you us where did you boards and batting material.

 

I did the boards myself by hand, bought sheets of original type board from department store (the same kind they use on the back of furniture etc). Batting material is also easily available in material stores. Just went with the old one and asked for similar, got quite a good material.

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2 hours ago, saoirse said:

Chrome bits are yet to be done :)


The chromed-plastic trim is mighty nice as is! I’d be a little hesitant to start wrapping those pieces as the stickums will, no doubt, leave them worse if you ever want to remove it. On the other hand, the work you’ve done on the door card panels, thus far, suggests you’re capable of great detail work — I just note that the rounded ends of the door card chrome trim, and the curves of that larger piece, are bears to finish elegantly and smoothly.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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4 hours ago, man_mark_7 said:

Looks fantastic. What did you use the staples for? I'm about to redo my cards too.

 

M

 

Thanks! 

 

The stapels are just to re assure it's tight and secure since the glue did not seem to be the best (although I used some super glue type of glue on the edges).

 

I could do a write up to blogs if there is a demand on how I made them.

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