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Conserv

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Everything posted by Conserv

  1. Conserv

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    The head, cast in September 1972 (9 nubs surrounding “72”) is likely original to the engine, given the car’s October 1972 manufacturing date. What’s the casting date of the engine? Best regards, Steve
  2. I took my ‘76’s original carpeting to a rug shop that cleans our Oriental carpets: they specialize in cleaning fragile antique carpets. It came out great, although a few stains remain. I don’t specifically recall the bill but I believe it was over $100, including repairing minor tears and runs. Lots of people report great results with home pressure washing, but I was taking no chances. I, unfortunately, don’t have post-cleaning photos. But, as the first photo below shows, pre-cleaning, there is some fading, particularly on the driveline hump. The second and third photos show the manufacturing dates on the reverse of the primary carpet and the rear seat lower bulkhead carpet: April 12, 1976 (“12. 4. 76”) and April 14, 1976 (“14. APR. 1976”). Does your 1974 carpet have similar date markings? Thanks and regards, Steve
  3. Cracked aluminum heads are not uncommon, especially on BMW’s. The most common solution was, historically, a new or good used head. Finding a new or good used head, however, grows more challenging by the day, hence repairs once not contemplated might need to be considered. Make certain your repairer — if that is the route that you choose, or which chooses you — has experience with aluminum heads. Regards, Steve
  4. That was a comprehensive “tii conversion”: the car has the tii airbox brackets on the left inner fender, a tii firewall notch, and a tii clock. I cannot tell if the struts and front brakes are tii units but, somehow, I suspect they might be. The presence of the tii airbox, in its correct tii location, certainly suggests the brake booster is a tii unit as well. GLWS, Steve
  5. A great photo of a great tire is never wasted.... 😋😉 Best regards, Steve
  6. Good news for potential round taillight tii buyers. Bad news for potential round taillight tii sellers... 😉 Regards, Steve
  7. That’s a head-scratcher! Let’s think: (a.) What is the VIN? Is it a Euro-spec VIN? A U.S.-spec 1971 2002 (manual transmission) has a 167xxxx or a 257xxxx VIN. U.S.-spec 2002A’s might use an additional VIN series. (b.) The delivery to Lichtenstein suggests a Euro-spec car. If it’s got a Euro-spec VIN, does it have Euro-spec characteristics that support that characterization, e.g., no sidemarkers lights or reflectors, Euro bumper overriders? (c.) If it’s a 1971 model, it’s either early (up to April 1971) and thus a pre-Modell 71 car, or late (from April 1971) and thus a Modell 71 car. The Modell 71 mid-year facelift gave the ‘02 black-faced instruments replacing silver-dollar instruments, 12-fuse fuseholders, long consoles in lieu of short consoles, knee mouldings, rubber bump strips on front and rear bumpers, and more. (d.) What factory date stamps can you find on the car? Original steel rims, taillights, instrument cluster, transmission, differential, seats, seat belts, electrical relays, steering wheel, etc.? How do they compare to the manufacturing date provided by BMW Group Archives — which was what? (e.) My (b.), (c.), and (d.) questions are basic tests to see if the current VIN is consistent with the car as we see it today. If, for instance, your VIN is for a pre-Modell 71 Euro-spec VIN, but the car looks like a U.S.-spec Modell 71 car, we have to consider whether this VIN has always been with this car. If many components are dated after the car’s manufacturing date, we have to assume the VIN is not original to the car. (f.) What is the engine number? Does it match the current VIN? What is the casting date on the engine block? (g.) U.S.-spec cars from 1971, but not Euro-spec cars from 1971, had (1.) an additional small metal VIN tag riveted to the top of the steering column clamshell, and (2.) a paper VIN and build-month sticker on the rear panel of left door. Does the car have either of these? I’m asking lots of questions not because there is any substantial possibility of a VIN change, but because we need to rule out that possibility. The easiest explanation is usually closest to the actual story. For example, the right front inner fender was crumpled in an accident, and replaced. This would have eliminated both the chassis VIN stamped directly into the inner fender and the riveted-on VIN tag. The owner had the title with the original VIN but when the car was being sold, or inspected, the buyer or inspector, or mechanic said “Wait. There’s no VIN on the car.” And hence the CA DMV number? Regards, Steve
  8. I’ve done this (3 times) for my ‘73 tii, which was a CA car until I acquired it in 2014. Between (a.) what is not in CA DMV’s files, and (b.) what CA cannot release for privacy reasons, there was not a lot a meat in the report. The reason I filed three separate times, was I hoped someone would slip up and send me everything! 😉 No such luck: I got three reports telling me only the name of the last owner, which I knew already. So.... manage your expectations! Regards, Steve
  9. Well, the answer is obviously.... Maybe.... The lowered stance reminds me of the American preference for U.S.-spec ‘02’s over Euro-spec ‘02’s, which the owner then Europeanizes — by stripping sidemarkers, changing bumpers, or whatever — according to his/her personal preference. I believe many buyers would prefer a factory-height tii, which that buyer would then adjust — or not adjust — to their preferred height! I say this although the stock springs and sway bars are included in the sale! Best regards, Steve
  10. The CN36’s, like Michelin Classic tires (e.g., XAS, XDX, etc.), are made in the original, ca. 1970 molds, albeit using modern rubber compounds. Best regards, Steve
  11. The model year runs, in general, from approximately September 1 to approximately August 31. My records show that VIN 2585139 was the first U.S.-spec 1973 model. Some cars are incorrectly titled. It happens! It looks like a lot of car for what you’re asking, regardless of what model year it is! GLWS, Steve
  12. This one’s been re-listed at least twice. In January, it was at $50K and the trunk hadn’t been re-painted: Regards, Steve
  13. And if the KBA does not match the Exim KBA, sometimes Googling a KBA # will turn up other examples on the Web.... Best regards, Steve
  14. I, too, saw the crowns but also note that lots of rims had various production versions, Ronal R2’s, Cosmic Mark II’s. Sometimes (thinking again of Cosmic’s) there were both machined and non-machined versions — the machined versions also having blacked-out backgrounds. Note that the example shown in the database is likely a 1992 production (“92”), which might be a late version of this rim. There are some markings on your rim, where the barrel meets the center disk. If it’s a KBA #, we can compare it to the KBA for the Exim rim shown, 41038 (?). And there are no other markings front or rear? Best regards, Steve
  15. The classic car market is not where it was two years ago, Nick, when a gorgeous, but slightly-imperfect, Baikal ‘72 tii sold on BAT for something like $92K. (And COOP knows what perfect ‘72 tii’s sell for... 😉) Don’t be afraid of Vince’s estimate. Embrace it! 😋 Best regards, Steve
  16. Don’t forget this forum’s excellent Wheels database, e.g.: Regards, Steve
  17. If you are looking for an idler pulley for one of the original reciprocating compressor brackets (those compressors were generally by York), post a Want To Buy in the classifieds section. You’re likely to be offered a complete compressor bracket, as they’re being phased out by most owners. More recent compressor brackets — for rotary compressors such as Sanden — tend to do away with the idler pulley in favor of a mount that adjusts by sliding in and out, like an alternator. If you are looking for a new idler pulley, but can’t locate one, perhaps it’s time to upgrade to a rotary compressor and a hobiedave or BluntTech compressor mount. Regards, Steve
  18. Jeff, The tool kit changed precious little from 1966 to 1977 and from 1502 to 2002 turbo! I’m fairly confident the tools for a 1970 2002ti areidentical to the tools form a 1970 2002. There are any number of tool kit threads on the general forum. Sparkplug socket, screwdriver, waterpump pliers, three (or is it two?) open-end wrenches, one with a bent arm for the rear-wheel shoe adjusters. Lug nut wrench doubles as crank for jack and wheel cover puller (jacks for later cars have a crank incorporated into the jack). Regards, Steve
  19. Looks like a nice car! A VIN would probably permit Les to see if it shows up in sales post-2004. And... you never know what Googling the VIN yourself might reveal. Regards, Steve
  20. Even better, found some photos of the over wheel arch foam blocks just before the Big Re-Paint. The blocks did come out for the luggage compartment refresh... and went back in, the better to soak up any water from rear window leaks.... 😉 Regards, Steve
  21. I agree: they look like the plugs in the trunk bulkhead, just outboard of the rear shock upper mounts, but I thought he said in his initial post that his “over wheel arch foam” is still intact... 🤔 Below is a photo of the appropriate area, which is really too dark to illustrate the foam, but provides an opportunity for me to trot out a 1983 photo of my ‘76.... 😉 Regards, Steve
  22. 1966, at least early 1966 cars: black rocker panels with no rocker panel moulding. 1967 through 1973 (most round taillight cars): body color rocker panels with a rocker panel moulding 1974 through 1977 (square taillight cars): black rocker panels with a rocker panel moulding But, as a recent thread revealed, many owners feel free to paint the rockers however they prefer. For example, black rockers make the car appear to sit higher but look sleeker, emphasizing the horizontality. Body-color rockers tend to make the car look “chunkier”, but closer to the ground. That thread shows some photos of cars, illustrating these preferences and rationale. Regards, Steve
  23. Although there was no factory-installed optional shift knob, BMW offered a dealer accessory knob — in either wood or leather — as shown in the first photo below, from a ca. 1972 U.S. dealer accessories brochure. The factory shift knob, from 1966 through 1977, was, as Mike pointed out, a molded rubber thing. Given the number and range of the ‘02 sub-models, it’s almost surprising that the same rubber shift knob was used for the full duration of the ‘02’s production, regardless of sub-model. Below, photos two through five — all from factory brochures — show the factory shift knob on a 1967 1600-2, a 1969 2002ti, 1974 2002 turbo, and a 1976 1502, respectively. The last photo is of the original knob in my ‘76. Regards, Steve
  24. First off, Juan, you have even the engine compartment looking loved! They didn’t do much masking when they painted it! Many of the bolts, nuts, and details currently painted Granada were originally natural finish, largely cadmium or zinc plated. Examples are the nuts securing the tops of the strut towers, the fasteners holding the hood hold-down bar, and the hood hold-down bar itself. Below is my ‘76 to give you some sense of what was painted and what was not (although obviously many details changed from 1968 to 1976). Removing overspray can be accomplished one item at a time. The oil filler cap on your ‘69 should look like the cap on my ‘76. Regards, Steve
  25. This looks, to me, Paul. like tired springs in a period deflector... 😯 Calling Stan, calling Stan.... 😉 Best regards, Steve


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