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The DREAD thread...


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Doing a vanos and cooling system job on my wife's "new" e46 i bought her, nervous about going into an e46 after decades of 70's or earlier cars, thinking I got it all right, then to find that within a week the coolant light is on and it's a slow leak somewhere. The dread is that on my '02 getting in and sourcing this kind of stuff is SO MUCH EASIER. Not so with the e46 325xi...

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'73 Sahara numbers matching 

'74 Mintgrun sunroof car w/ oem Golde deflector, euro bumpers, 5spd, owned since 2002

 

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8 hours ago, otto said:

Doing a vanos and cooling system job on my wife's "new" e46 i bought her, nervous about going into an e46 after decades of 70's or earlier cars, thinking I got it all right, then to find that within a week the coolant light is on and it's a slow leak somewhere. The dread is that on my '02 getting in and sourcing this kind of stuff is SO MUCH EASIER. Not so with the e46 325xi...

MLytle and Toby love the e46!  Inspect the coolant reservoir - the one on my wife's e90 had to be replaced last year.  

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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My dread meter goes in the red thinking about replacing the heater valve on my tii. Right now it's in the closed position so it will stay that way to fall.  Being 6'3", I hate getting under the dash and pulling the heater box. One of the suckiest jobs in the joys of owning an 02.

 

G-Man

74 tii (many mods)
91 318i M42

07 4Runner

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Gordon, you're in luck. The valve's in the cowl, on the engine side.

 

You have tiny hands, right?

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I dread having to remove Vern's clock to fix for the 3rd time. 5 minutes to remove and fix, once took me 3 hours to reinstall. 

I dreaded the elusive mystery stumble turning out to be of my 008 distributor self destructing after 42 years, 123 to the rescue!

I dread running out of talent halfway through the turn.

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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28 minutes ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

I believe Paul Winterton made a tool, to help with reassembly.

 

 

It's true, I too have had to re-install my clock a FEW times.  Keeping the clock in position and spinning on the knurled nuts takes 3 hands unless...you have a tool to hold the knob while spinning it on.

 

1.  Position the clock and slide the bracket onto the studs.

2.  Use a block of wood or a rolled towel or anything on the dash to keep the clock from pushing outward while you are negotiating the nuts.

3.  The problem is getting the nuts into position before turning to thread them onto the studs.  I made a simple tool out of a clothes hanger, 10" long with an "L" shaped bent at the end with an approx. 3/8" long bent section to fit into the end of the nut.  I wrapped a small piece of masking tape to keep the tool inside the nut.  Not too long of a bent section - you need a few threads exposed to start threading.  With this tool you can position the nut at the proper angle and use your other hand (finger) to spin the nut.  Once it grabs the threads you can remove the tool and continue to rotate the nut.

 

This has worked very well for me and reduced the time to 5 minutes per nut.

59189b5956cca_clocktool1.jpg.48e78ed191748e4641c286769113abd2.jpg

 

 

Good luck.

 

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73 Inka Tii #2762958

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2 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

It's true, I too have had to re-install my clock a FEW times.  Keeping the clock in position and spinning on the knurled nuts takes 3 hands unless...you have a tool to hold the knob while spinning it on.

 

1.  Position the clock and slide the bracket onto the studs.

2.  Use a block of wood or a rolled towel or anything on the dash to keep the clock from pushing outward while you are negotiating the nuts.

3.  The problem is getting the nuts into position before turning to thread them onto the studs.  I made a simple tool out of a clothes hanger, 10" long with an "L" shaped bent at the end with an approx. 3/8" long bent section to fit into the end of the nut.  I wrapped a small piece of masking tape to keep the tool inside the nut.  Not too long of a bent section - you need a few threads exposed to start threading.  With this tool you can position the nut at the proper angle and use your other hand (finger) to spin the nut.  Once it grabs the threads you can remove the tool and continue to rotate the nut.

 

This has worked very well for me and reduced the time to 5 minutes per nut.

59189b5956cca_clocktool1.jpg.48e78ed191748e4641c286769113abd2.jpg

 

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks Paul!  Knowing this will help when I get that far down my "to do"  list!

1972 BMW Inka 2002Tii  ?

1974 BMW Turkis 3.0 CSi ?

1972 MBZ Weiss 280SE 4.5 

2006 BMW Cobalt 530i (38,700 m original)

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