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About TobyB

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  1. Yeah, you're right, there's not enough room with 13" wheels. And the price of 13" Toyos is nice, too, I agree. I never tried the Bav tension arms, tho I do have a set around here somewhere... probably unlabelled... I remember they were quite a bit longer, but not HOW much longer. I DID run the Bav lower arms with 13x7 Panasports, but those had 0 offset, and banged into the nose panel.. You could certainly TRY the stiffer springs. It's just that, with stock suspension, as you get into it, it only takes a few different sets of springs before you're up to the cost of a coilover setup, and once you go that direction, adjustability gets so much easier. But it also may reclass you. t
  2. I think that's caused by wear- sometimes the piston relief bore is so worn and galled that the piston has to be driven out. I don't remember anything spring loaded on the E21 pickup- can you post up a pic? t
  3. whut? no, that pipe just feeds the main galley back down to the pressure regulator. Restrict that, and you get high oil pressures when cold... Looks like you spun the whole crankshaft- 180! Which bearing? And what did you do to fix the damage that always causes? 180 or 360? flat side up. It's best to use 2 nuts to hold the flywheel if you're going to run it that way. But you need to have the nose drilled for the pilot bushing. only if it's been apart before. I hesitate to ask... but did you keep the rod caps with their corresponding rods? t is impressed it goes in that way!
  4. Ha- spinoff: even BMW's suppliers got it wrong. When the wipers on your E36 crap out, pull the wiper control box and resolder the pins where the board hits the main connector. The holes are oversized, and then they didn't use enough solder when they dunked them. 25 years later, both of mine have cracked around the pins to cause the wipers to crap out. Moral of the story being, I guess, that everyone gets it wrong now and then. So I'd be looking at 'which is easier to fix if something goes wrong?' as a criteria. I have an old Electromotive brick. They don't support it anymore, and yet want me to buy the software to run it- but the risk is all on me. And the software costs more than the modern equivalent brick costs.... so there's that element to consider, too. t cracked joints are us
  5. Yeah, the 2002 loves to run on the outside 2" of a modern radial, doesn't it? You could try the spacers that move the lower pivot point of the front suspension out and down, if you have a little fender room. They aren't too expensive, don't push you to coilovers, and do several good things, including lowering the front ball joint. They don't affect bump steer- which is good, as the 2002 doesn't really have much. They DO improve roll center position, which DOES help weight transfer a bit. Also, if you later go to coilovers, you can leave them in, as they're a good companion to them. I used Bavaria front lower arms, for roughly the same effect, but they also move the tire forward if you use the 2002 'tension rod'. Good for caster, bad for wheel clearance. Less body roll helps camber, BUT weight transfer will stay pretty much the same- think about it, if you're cornering at .8g, you're pretty heavily on the outside tires anyway, and only roll center movement affects that much (see above, lower ball joint spacers). Roll WILL affect the relative loading front- to- rear, if your suspension has different roll rates and centers, which the 2002 certainly does. Short version? See if you can find those spacers as an option. They're sometimes called 'bump steer correctors', which they don't do on our cars. hth t
  6. He is 2500 meters above sea level. That's getting to the point where tuning a tii becomes a bit challenging. +1 for wb02! t
  7. Heh. I played with MS1 when it first came out. Also a DIY called Mic-3, before that. They were both early development- and so much more fun than anything before. I had used EDIS, so that drove the clocking. Both handled boost fine- what I found was that I needed increasing resolution as boost got over 10 psi (pushrod Volvo B20 engine) and those early systems just didn't have it. And then I got a wideband sensor going- and went racing. With DCOEs. t not really relevant these days, but following along because the 2002 race car needs to go EFI to be remotely competitive...
  8. There are different iterations of Ireland's bars- the one that relocates the front pivot point is quite stiff. So here's another (somewhat different) schpiel on springs vs. anti- sway bars: since the bar is just another spring, it adds spring rate only in roll. IF you have quite soft springs and a stiff bar, it'll add, relatively, quite a bit of rate, and thus, roll resistance. Frustratingly, it's not trivial to measure the effective wheel rate of a bar, and thus, I've never seen anyone publish a rate for the 2002 bars in any form. But if you already have #400 lb/in front springs, (which you don't) a bar needs to be QUITE stiff to add much rate to that- if it's not adding #100 or more to the wheel, it's not going to drastically change body roll. What it DOES do is transfer load between the 2 wheels, unloading the inside one- thus the tuning factor... as more weight transfer results in (somewhat) less grip. Aha- "weight transfer results in somewhat less grip". So, all things being equal (which they aren't) you only want to limit roll when it's causing other problems, like messing up your contact patch, bottoming suspension, etc. heh. t runs the Ireland front bar with relocated pivots.
  9. Then you don't have a radiator problem. Full stop. Unless it's plugged solid, but your garden hose flush disproves that. Does the thermostat housing get hot? If it does, bad thermostat OR gauge. If it does NOT, it's a circulation problem. I've no experience with SpeedSlut products, but I too would confirm temps, as you're planning. A simple IR temp gun will do it. You will get different readings off of the metal parts vs. the black rubber, so don't get too worried about 10 or 15 degree differences- you're looking for gross differentials. I second Mike- about 30% of 'new' thermostats malfunction in some way. While I haven't seen this on 2002's specifically, I've seen impellers come loose on the shaft. Or come apart- yes, even the metal E46 one from Graf... The heater pump bypass isn't the best way, BUT if your lower hose isn't even getting warm, that's not your whole problem. I bypass the heater core, but add a restrictor in line. That makes it easier to bleed the system, but blocks most of the flow. Good luck- you'll figure it out. t who left a blue towel in a carburetor, once.
  10. Are these the E30 steelie spares/base 316 rims?? They do fit, but as Steve says, you may need spacers to get a wider tire. t never got around to widening them to 7"...
  11. Whichever you have the most faith in! I have a couple older Megasquirts, and I would not use the DB37 connector, and I'd pot a couple of the caps, but then, due to its open- source nature, I'd be very comfortable running it. I'd also keep a cold spare in the glove box, but that's why I bought 2. Also, download the software and try it. Everyone's brain works differently, and if you don't like the interface, the hardware's not worth the effort. t
  12. Whups, yes- this. I've had oil leak out from under the head of the bolt before, too, and that means it could also leak where the bolt passes thru the gasket. This, too. If you're not losing much, DO try to find out where, but the fix may not be worth the effort AND you do run the risk of making nice new fresh leaks. t in my experience...
  13. I had a head gasket leak water once when I retorqued it after umpteen years. I don't, anymore. But that happened once. So here's the deal- the only place the oil touches the head gasket is marked. The red's high pressure oil up to the cam and rockers, and green's unpressurized drains . Blue is water- this is a Cometic gasket, so yours will have slightly different water restriction passages, but they'll be in the same places. So it's really unlikely oil's coming out of the gasket where you're seeing it. It MIGHT be coming out somewhere else, and running back. But it's so much more likely that the front cover's leaking, the valve cover's leaking, or the distributor's leaking from either the housing, the o- ring around its base, or out of the distributor itself. Those little mirrors- on- a- stick are invaluable for this, as are tiny LED lights that you can wedge up in there at odd angles. I have a tiny camera that sometimes helps, too. Sometimes not, tho. Worst comes to worst, you could buy that UV dye, and a UV light source (cheap LED version from ePay) and try that. In your shoes, I'd keep at it with the wad of t- shirt rag. But do have some way to extinguish it if it manages to set itself on fire on the manifold. hth t
  14. It'll self- position over time- the rubber gets soft when the sun hits it, the aperature moves around as you go over bumps, and all that air pressure from your autobahn- like speeds pushes it in. Once the lips are locked over the glass and the body, you're done- the glass will find its happy place. t
  15. Wow- yeah, I see what you mean. The Mazda trans is nice and round- just like the tunnel. The Getrag's square edges are what bang into the tunnel first. There IS side- to- side room with the 245, but it's hard to use because the case top hits the tunnel radius first. I share your optimism- and see why you're using a plate, too. All the earlier trans I tried to mate to the M10 overlapped the mounting bosses on the block too awkwardly to work. t

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