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TobyB last won the day on February 23

TobyB had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Carnation, WA
  • Interests
    sounds so... bland.
    Obsessed: racing.
    Fascinated: Cars. Making things out of metal.
    Serious problem: stuff.

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  1. Splurge, go anti- Briddish, and use a pilot bearing- the fully sealed kind. It'll last forever. Clutch hydraulics are a bit goofy on the RHD auto cars, aren't they? As in the supply to the clutch master works differently. Hmm, now that I think about it, maybe not too bad. The pipe/hose from the master to the slave's different, but that'd be in the swap stuff. Or pretty easy to make. We ARE forgetting a few things. I forget what... heh t
  2. And don't be afraid to use heat if things are 'stiff but a bit gooey'- the heat will add gooey, and scrape easier. THEN use the industrial solvents for the fine sheen of yech that's left on the metal. I never like this part of the job, either. t
  3. Oh, yeah, if that's going in for body work, that's an easy fix. The strut towers are plenty thick for building back up. A true craftsman might use small metal pieces to speed the filling process and keep heat down. A true bodyshop metalworker would fill it with welding wire! No sweat, then. t
  4. 1. yeah, but usually it's a slow graceful droop. I have a better one than I have a right to (well, ok, I replaced the seals) so mine doesn't do that. Much. 2. you can always pull on a beater. I do tend to smack the pullers from the end a bit, more for shock value. Whalloping is usually just a quick way to get it to fly off and smack you in the face. 3. I always remember that, too, right AFTER I pick up whatever it was I was welding. Did remember to wear 'short' shoes the other day, which saved the top of my foot when the entire effing puddle of aluminum slumped off and landed square on the laces. Stunk to HIGH HEAVEN, but I had that shoe off as soon as I felt the 'splash'. Not too hot- aluminum slumps at 1200 or so. t not drunk enough
  5. Yeah, ick. Hard to tell- is there automotive 'jute' backing in there, or just plain old Walter- Wall? If you can find cartridges, spring for the full respiratory protection, a fire extinguisher, and the longest metal scraper you can find (the better to not burn yourself with.) Getting that stuff out would be best in the interest of a non- flambe future... t
  6. Ah, shit, just center the thing in the hole, punch the bolts out to use the old strut perch as a template. drill new holes 15 degrees off the old ones, and call it a day. That's not an E46 ya got there. Well, that and replace those poor strut tops. Was someone trying to autocross that thing? If that seems too practical and ooky- looking, (and I guess I could see it being a bit of an eyesore at the beach) grab your copper backing plate and stitch up the holes slowly and gently with a MIG. (welder, not fighter, Elliott.) Then grind it back- in fact, a bit of grinding as you go might be in order, just to keep the thickness appropriate. Once those studs are snugged up properly, there's almost no load on any of that- the weight of the car does 78% of the work. t slapdash miggy Broody
  7. Oh, haww hawwww, that's a good one! So, there's this car, see, and it has no shell. But the transmission might be bad, the KFish is going to be worn out, and the engine could be scrap. Let's see, Schmitxwer steel's paying $0.12 a pound for cars to crush and ship to China, and a 2002 weighs in at about 2200, so the safe price is about $250. Anything else is just bonus! t Hey Esty, how much to make carpets for my yacht?
  8. If everyone else ^^^ has been checked off the list, wiggle. Most common cause of binding is that the engine's at an angle to the trans- or is putting force on at an angle. And the tip of the pilot is at odds with the clutch splines. I do like Byron's theory on the lower plate. The M54 version is a little 6mm bolt up high on the passenger's side that holds the iso plate to the transmission. Evil. Also, one more reason to drop the subframe. t
  9. Threads, schmedds, your problem is the worn splines ya gots there, Pappy! (schoorryy, i been drinkin') But seriously, I see evidence of wear on the splines- try cleaning everything up really well, and see if you have a tight fit to the hub. I'm afraid you're going to find slop, and equally ugh- inducing, wear on the inside of the hub where the inner race clamps to it. Which means you're over- clamping your bearings, and need to re- shim. Or practically speaking, re- hubandstub it. t <hic>
  10. Hmmm- maybe I got the 'good' guy- I WAS a big pain in the ass with all sorts of odd stuff, like, metric one end and SAE the other, no slip joint, etc... ...but they were also the ones who encouraged me to 'stick it in the lathe and try it- as long as you don't score up the slugs, it's not going to make our job any harder!' t
  11. Likewise, et25 here, but also with negative camber in front. t
  12. Yeah, I have found the same to be true. Back when Driveline Service of Portland was making them for me, they came back VERY close to true, and with very little weight on them. Whoever was doing their machining back in about 2005 was VERY attentive to the centers of everything. It's awesome that you're playing with these- one of these years, I hope to do the same. Because it's just a few yokes and some tubing, right??? t
  13. Nope. Unless it's come loose, nothing in the rear end should have been deformed by installation or use. Fasteners do not 'wear out'. If a fastener is 'powder coated' or even painted, the clamping surfaces must be cleaned back to bare metal, or you run the real risk of the fastener coming loose, as the material in the clamping interface squeezes out of the joint and reduces clamping force. Undertorqued is far more dangerous than overtorqued. And the material in the interface, or on the threads, will modify the torque value. Unless it's rusted, bent, or otherwise deformed, there is no good reason to replace any fastener in 99% of the 2002. If it's loaded to a significant percentage of its yield strength, there is a good reason NOT to replace it: new fasteners come from anywhere and everywhere, and may or may not be as advertised. BMW took care when they put the cars together, and did, indeed, make sure their fasteners were up to spec. there. That's my take. t take it or leave it and not very obsessed with bolts and nuts.
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