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TobyB

Kugelfischer
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About TobyB

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  1. There is a tig weld along the bottom of the bumper supports where they go through the inner panel of the nose. On the noses I cleaned up, that weld was harder than petrified snot, and a real bear to clean up without damaging the base metal. I do in fact whack the inner frame 'rails' because it's always easier to remove parts than whole panels. Other than that, it's pretty much what you see- I always take the inner and outer panels together, and reattach that same way. Just much easier overall. I trim the offcut as thin as I can, then cut the spotwelds loose one at a time. Realignment's the trick- take lots of dimensions, make lots of marks, and have the hood and fenders ready to trial fit before you do more than tack it in place. Not a hard job, if you go carefully and methodically. I've done 2 or 3, and the prep's the time- consuming part. t
  2. errr, how much hacking did you do to the tunnel? I don't see the M10 version fitting without significant mods... why not just make a new bellhousing? That's how I did the Nissan trans... ...and it fit into the stock tunnel. The Mazda 3-4 gap is pretty wide, given how not- wide the 2-3 gap is... The RX7 racers all use Miatae transmission- did you look at that one? I still wanna try the close- ratio Muncie 21 4- speed. Just for s&g. The Mazda trans will shift a LOT better! My thoughts- carry on! t
  3. Koni Sport shocks are very good- and have a lifetime warranty. I prefer them to the Bilstones. Springs are just springs. I forget the stock rating, but #200 lbs/ inch front and rear with a nice beefy sway bar set is a good starting place for the street. t
  4. I too like the ST 22/19 bar set AND their springs for a street car. Thingy is, an anti- sway bar is just a spring, and not a particularly strong one at that. Lots of ways to go, but trying to fight soft springs with stiff bars is one of them. t
  5. Heh. I think you're losing spark.... I built a race car out of 2 E30s. The donor that gave up its ecu was a very late- production car with a top speed limiter. I ran it for a year without hitting that, then went to a smaller tire- viola, top speed limited to 128 mph. Took a few minutes to figure that one out, too- everyone said, 'nope, no top speed limiter, that started with the E36....' t
  6. For the cam tensioner piston? It gets the top edge of the end of it lopped off if the machinist isn't careful! t seen that...
  7. Have you looked at the front wheel bearings? Brakes? Got a ROUS wedged in there? t
  8. It has a HUGE effect on gauge compression. Rings leak continually, and the faster the stroke, the less air leaks by them. And the higher the pressure, the better the rings seal, so the higher the pressure, so the better the rings seal.... 75 psi for a stored motor's not outside the reasonable range. If you oil it, it should jump up quite a bit. If the engine's not been recently run, ALL you are testing for are burnt valves and holed pistons/ head gasket/ etc. In your situation, I'd run a bore camera into it, and then drive it. If it THEN is down on power after a few track days, then maybe it's time to open the motor. If it ran OK, then get it running WELL in the refreshed car, then make your decision after that. I've torn apart and spent real money on engines that just didn't need it- the extra labor of pulling it again later is offset by the goodness of having a known, tuned set of carb, distributor, and all the other little stuff that can disrupt breaking in a fresh engine properly. t warms it up, then keeps high combustion pressure on it.
  9. If I'm making them up and know I'll need 'anti- chafe' I'll put 2 layers of electrical heat shrink tubing on, then align it and shrink it down when I know exactly where I need it to be. Vinyl tubing works well, too- get it a little small, slit it, and then it'll keep the braid from sawing holes in things. But ideally, the braid shouldn't ever be allowed to touch anything- you can make clamps to hold it stationary several ways. hth t
  10. Welcome! Put this in your profile- it helps a LOT with things like "Why would you use a Saab engine when a...." and "My brakes are..." sorts of things. As to brakes, if you have standard struts, I'd just start with the vented E21 rotors and late E21 hubs. If you can find tii struts, the early E21 hubs, early E12 calipers and vented rotors are an excellent starting place. When you run out of THESE, then maybe it's time to get seriously serious- I RACE the E21/E12 combo with 10" of racing slick at about 160bhp and have never had an issue, even on short sharp tracks. In back, making something up yourself might be worth the effort- the Rabbit parts are pretty small, don't fit all that well (upside down), and if you don't mind adapting a different caliper, the Saturn SC1 optional front vented rotor drops right onto an E21 rear trailing arm... hth, t
  11. Actually, the common Datsun forklift motor's the H20, which is an R16 stroked out to 2 liters, but without the cool U20 sohc head that they made for the 2l roadster... As to 'Tweels', we have them on the golf carts at work. They sound funny. t in before lock
  12. that was a challenge, wasn't it? heh t
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