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About TobyB

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  • Gender Not Telling
  • Location Carnation, WA
  • Interests sounds so... bland.
    Obsessed: racing.
    Fascinated: Cars. Making things out of metal.
    Serious problem: stuff.

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  1. The cast number on the master is usually the bore size. The caliper half numbers are just casting identifiers, nothing more. I always figured the inch brake dimensioning was something painful in British or US import law, and it was easiest to just use inches on all versions.
  2. TobyB

    Do you see it?

    at least 2... t
  3. TobyB

    Flywheel ?

    In the US, the 320's 'trigger' was in the distributor, as was the E30 318i that came after it. I've taken flywheels off both, and never seen that trigger vane. The M42 has the same type of front mounted CPS as the M20 Motronic 1.3, reading a toothed wheel and cam position. The only vintage Motronic that used the flywheel as a trigger was 1/1.1, as fitted to the 325 eta. Or, I suppose, some vintage M30s may have. But as Byron notes, not with a 215mm clutch! I suppose it could be something from a non-US market car, or a custom addition for an aftermarket ignition or ecu... ...but its presence would make me wonder why it's there, and want to confirm that everything else is correct. It would really suck to get it all together and find that (for example) the starter engagement depth is wrong. I'll look tomorrow for a stock 2002 flywheel to dimension. t
  4. Does it behave the same way running and stopped? t
  5. TobyB

    Rear wheel bearing shims

    Yeah, but you can always make 2 MORE of everything with the surface grinder! t only has an angle grinder...
  6. TobyB

    Flywheel ?

    Make sure that's an M10 flywheel... M10's never got Motronic 1, that I know of, but the M20 did. And it got an ever- so- slightly different flywheel... t
  7. None taken. It is not pretty. It HAS been tested several times, and found strong enough... ...also big enough, as Safety 3 may show up with whatever's in their toolbox, and it's not always what you might expect... t
  8. TobyB

    Domed or flat

    Here's another opinion- don't use the 1.8 crank. It's usually not forged, and the pistons for it have the pins very low in the skirt. It's not a good design to start with, and since you're going to be spending real money no matter how you cut it, start with a 2l crank and pistons. Ireland used to make (and may still) pistons for a 1.8i head with a 2l crank. If you're doing a $2.50 motor, use the domed pistons for either normally aspirated or turbo- they only give you a low (8.x) ratio anyway, and they're not detonation- prone. t doesn't like the 1.8i crank
  9. Yup, maybe '90s SCCA? But until drifting and stants and Honduhhs with 6 degrees negative camber became a 'thing', no- one paid much attention to them. Even in the mid- 2000's, you got towed by taking a wrap around your front cage downtube, and then letting it go when you were at your paddock. t
  10. TobyB

    Interesting read

    That reminds me- I need to rebalance the deferred comp account. t not inspired by accountancy
  11. Getrag rattle. It's not an issue for the 245. As in, it's not an indicator of failure. You have a good trans. Keep gear oil in it, change it every 30k or so, and shift with sympathy. It'll outlive you. t
  12. TobyB

    I love my Volvo.......

    unusual to see them rear engined, tho... t
  13. I have functional tow hooks. They are loops of aircraft cable that loop the rear fuel cell frame. That frame's attached at the front to the diff mount channel and the inner fender structure. So, for a relatively on- axis tug out of the gravel, or out of the wet grass, they're pretty stout. In front, they're loops that go through the bumper mount bolt holes. Something to think about- you're going to get hit more than you're going to need a tow. Not a really big slam, just a nudge, a bump, a love tap. When that happens, the tow hook's going to transfer load to the into the car. So you don't want something like that hook, protruding so far out, asking for a nudge... t hits things.
  14. TobyB

    Getrag 245 flywheel options

    ...however, 40 years later, friction materials have improved significantly. The 215's are lasting just fine these days. And the weight penalty's not all that much, really. So whatever you have will work just fine. DO use the 323i throwout bearing if you use the 228. One thing in favor of the 228's is that they have longitudinal straps holding the friction plate to the bell. The 215's mostly have radial straps, which can break if the engine's repeatedly shifted hard at high rpms. The Rabbit racers had a hell of a time with this, as they got the radial design only. t