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TobyB

Kugelfischer
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  1. The e30 version should have 2 mounts canted at 30 degrees or so. Not a deal breaker at all, just one more thing to work out. t
  2. Oh. yeah. but do touch up the paint under the grommet, as it'll rust if you don't. I do love square chassis punches, too- you can do all sorts of creative stuff with them. And the heavy- duty ones with bearings under the drive bolts can punch through any metal on a 2002. t
  3. I'll second a good, small 1/4" metric set. I learned with 3/8", but have come around to the smaller drive. Almost essential on later cars. I DID find at Hardwick's last time a Center 3/8" ratchet that's the same size as most 1/4" drive ones. It is FAN fulminating TASTIC. They stock them, the fine fellow said. $15. https://hardwickandsons.com/ t
  4. Neat- I love those. The '85 land cruiser has one (and yes, a carb, for now) I would totally hook it up- you can get it to share the brake warning system, if you want. t couldn't get a rental at Gatwick started in 1994- didn't realize it had a manual choke!
  5. Mom -n- pop muffler shop? Around here those have all been replaced with nail and eyebrow 'salons' There are no auto day spas here no more. t
  6. The only advantage I found to using the larger tii bearings is that they need less maintenance. The standard 2002 bearings hold up fine, but even with a synthetic grease, about every 4 race weekends (8 hours of track time each) I was cleaning out the old grease and repacking. I learned to do a 'quick' repack (little cleaning) every 2, and then I had no bearing damage over the course of a season. This was up to and including 10" wide cantilever slicks. When I changed to tii struts, I could get a whole season (10 or so weekends, but several 3 day 4 race weekends) with just a 'quick repack' after Spokane, which was the hottest track, by far, and also a 4 race weekend. So no, the tii struts just aren't worth current money. If someone gives you a set, by all means run them- or sell them and buy a whole bunch of other parts you really need. t
  7. I have had best results NOT 'setting' the choke again on a hot restart. Just crank. If it doesn't catch, get it to start (usually flooring it and cranking) and drive it home. Then park, open the hood, take the top off the air cleaner, and watch. What you'll likely see is that fuel starts leaking out of the carb, down the throat, and into the intake plenum. At least 2 things cause this- the crap low- vapor pressure fuel boils in the float bowl, and splashes over the top of the float chamber. And the fuel trapped between the pump and the carb also vaporizes, overwhelming the float and flooding the bowl with liquid fuel. Thus, the spacer, and also (in the threads in summers past) the mention of bypass fuel filters. I have wondered if the latest 32/36 lids that incorporate a float bowl vent could be modified to draw fuel out of the bowl- or at least, let it return to the tank rather than dump down the throats of the carb. Ahh, the joys of fuel injection... roller cams... pent- roof combustion chambers... and lithium batteries. t JATO, anyone?
  8. yes t bilstones last forever. Whether that's good or bad is subjective
  9. Neat thread! Here's one question, tho-- if the insides of the rockers were coated by this process, why did they rust like they were unpainted? t $1.99 a can Ace spray paint does better...
  10. Read Nick's post and check your ignition over. The 'running on 3 cylinders' part especially makes me think he's onto something. When the ignition's 100%, Your jetting looks fine. Jetting problems don't usually cause a full- on bogging when you're in the right range- and the 'right range' is pretty wide. Check that your linkage is keeping you in sync in the transition from idles to transition holes. Google Synchrometer- it works, for $50. If it's idling on all 4, then the transition jets are flowing fuel. You can pull the covers off the progression drillings and confirm that they're not plugged, because THAT would certainly cause a big splutt.... t https://www.lainefamily.com/images/WeberTuningManual.pdf
  11. Fixed that for ya, Steve! I'm going to disagree slightly with some of y'all. Yes, replace cracked rubber. But DO shop carefully, as there is a lot of JUNK out there that will be WORSE than not touching what you have. Yes, Rustoleum Industrial or similar paint gets you 85% of the results in 15% of the time and effort. No, don't put in springs and anti- sway bars yet. Drive it stock, drive it hard, and see what it does, and what it does that you DON'T like. THEN go back and readjust what's in there. You'll learn what the 2002 was when new, and then be able to upgrade it to what you want. that's my take. t
  12. Fiberglass has its place- but putting it over rust is, as everyone notes above, not such a hot idea. Especially on a unibody car, where most panels have a structural function. That said, if you wanted to play with it on the front fenders, hood or trunk while you keep an eye out for some good used ones, why not? It's cheap! It's also REALLY hard to get it to look good- honestly, the time spent doing it in metal's not much worse, and then you're done. t
  13. There isn't much- the oddballs might be, depending on your kit and your car: 7 mm wrench for brake bleeder. 8 mm wrench for brake bleeder. 11 mm flare nut wrench 6 mm allen socket 8 mm allen socket 10 mm allen socket 17 mm allen socket 30 mm socket 30 mm deep well thin wall socket 36 mm 3/4" drive socket (the Harbor Freight 3/4:" drive set is useful for the price) 22 and 24 mm wrenches. I have a 30mm as well, but I'm not sure it's critical. Brass faced 3# hammer and brass drift Acetylene torch if you're doing metalwork (or other shrinking method for high- tensile steel) Everything else is pretty bog- standard. I'm sure I missed a few oddballs, but there just aren't that many. Some of the things you DO are a bit different, but using Google to search this site finds most of the answers, and you've already found the other way to get help! Have fun! t
  14. mine takes a 27. But it also says VDO on it... heh t
  15. If I don't pick up a car (garden tractor, etc) on the same day I promise to buy it, I leave a personal check for 10%. We do a verbal arrangement for pickup, and I say "If I haven't picked it up in a week, cash the check and sell it to someone else". So far, no- one's stolen my bank account that way. I say keep the deposit, and wait for a letter from a lawyer. It's not coming for $1k, unless he has a sleazy relative. If paypal comes whining, tell them the story, INCLUDING the 'I did work on the car to the buyer's specification'. Then link them here. If they take your money, we'll all stop using paypal and call them unsavory croods on our facefood accounts. Plus, I think it's time to disclose buyer's name so we can all send him boxes of our pets' most odious leavings. t doesn't hold cars, either.
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