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TobyB

Kugelfischer
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  1. With a flattop, you'll be at something in the low 9's- the only way to know for sure is to cc the head. It's not hard, but you have to be rather painstaking. For a daily driver, 'lower' compression is fine- you can even add a mild (292ish) cam to it for a bit of zip, if you have a 32/36 or other downdraft. I would spend the money (or modify a stock sprocket- it's not hard to do, just slot the holes and pull the alignment dowel) to be able to retard the cam back a few degrees. 1mm is where it starts to be worth it. Also, clay the valves to make sure they have clearance. They should- but clay is cheap insurance. You'll probably only find 89.50 pistons- 89.25's I've only seen in factory reman blocks, never for sale in the aftermarket. Do be careful- the 2L E21 flattops have a lower piston height, which messes up squish and lowers compression... hth t
  2. yeah. this has come up before, and gone exactly nowhere. It's a great idea, but the gears themselves are not trivial to create, and then the manufacturing of something that has such high unit pressures is another problem that this country has 'outsourced' to countries with nonexistent labor and environmental standards. Honestly, a proper rack conversion system, with all the challenges that faces, would be orders of magnitude easier, and yield better results. t knows just enough to be scared...
  3. That's sofa king pretty... ... and one can tune the bowl vent length independently! hee t
  4. If there is vacuum or pressure in front of the velocity stacks, the bowl vented area will not 'see' it,. Plus, the bowl vents are covered by those mesh filters, while the stacks are open to the filtered area. The DCOE draws correction air from the bowl vent area, and with reversion pulsing in the filtered intake area, there could be a significant dynamic difference between the float bowl and the carb body., This has the potential to mess up float level, air corrector flow, and interstellar planetary alignment. It may also make the air correction jetting different. Adding a tube up to the filtered intake area would correct pressure- but would then become a tuned space of its own. As I said, it's a potential problem, not necessarily enough to mess up a street car. As to linkages, I have found that any decent linkage that keeps the carbs synced is good. Surprisingly few do that. The 'rod' works OK, because the linkage should be slack at idle as the carbs are on their idle stops, and under load, it 'adds fuel' in a positive way as the engine shifts. I've never tried a cable linkage, only because there are a lot more details, and each has devils in it. t has chased more trivial things than this.
  5. top OP pic- post 73 gauges in a pre- 71 housing. The trim's peeled off it. Next OP pic- 74-76 speedo, 71-73 tach and cluster in a 74- 76 housing. Buckeye's pic- 74- 76 gauges in a 74- 76 housing. t
  6. Nipple down for the bolted- on slave. I usually just let it gravity- bleed until it's flowing well, close the bleeder, and pump the hell out of it. After a bunch of frantic stomping, it's usually good enough to drive, at which point it self- bleeds over the next few days. I then let the last bubble or 2 of air out of it and all the calipers. And the wheel cylinders, if the car still has them. t avoids Wallymart whenever humanely possible.
  7. For idle air, what about a 'idle up' stepper with a worm gear on it? That would give it very fine control over small throttle openings, and with only 1 pair of plates, sync would be easy to maintain. ooo, now I want 2 motors on a dual setup, with an o2 sensor for each, to automatically monitor and balance idle sync... t herd of squirrels!
  8. Ack! too much originality, Ed! t doesn't like having to take the bearings apart to change a rotor.
  9. Paul, you beat me to glass beads. Sand cleans well, but the surface is so rough that the clearcoat oxidizes the metal to a nice, medium grey. IF you like that sort of thing. t vapor- induced hooning
  10. oh, add grounds to your gauges, your alternator, and ground the engine to the chassis and battery firmly. t puddin'- what?
  11. It took me 12 years to change a brake drum, once... hee t
  12. Oh, for the picking of the nits.... the K'Works elbows don't couple the bowl vents to the air plenum space, as defined by the filters. This 'may' become a problem with reversion pulses, since the lid is solid, and the reversion will deflect from it. Blue- dyed AvGas was wonderful for looking at what the reversion pulse turned into when it hit something solid. I was astounded by how plenae affected power delivery... t wants a dyno
  13. I've had the wires that plug into the alternator get brittle and crack, then break- the alternator vibrates a LOT. Taillight housings don't make great connections to the bulbs, by design, unfortunately. I really like an internally- regulated alternator- the Subaru Justy alternator bolts to the tii, but you get to modify the adjustment slider. Or make a new one. Well worth the effort, as the ND alt is so much more durable than the Botch. Otherwise, the 2002 is better than most '60's cars, electrically. t
  14. That's a deal. If they're the usual UK style offering, they'll be good for 50k+, and these days, that's just fine. Did they come with rings? If not, Deves makes a comparable- quality ring set that seals pretty well. Where did you find them? t Always thought BMW pistons were overpriced. Especially since I can buy a set of Mahles for a 351 W for less than half of what they cost for a 2002
  15. Your air bypass can go into a sandwich between the throttle body and the manifold, if you DON'T want to modify the manifold. A plate of 5/8 or 3/4" aluminum would let you get a plenty- big passageway in. Then you could remote any OE valving you wanted. I still think you should try port fuel injection on that manifold... it's a pretty good mid- range design. Oh, no... now I want to stick a pair of 38/38s onto it with those horrible right- angle SU adaptors from cannon (found 'em on a Volvo a long time ago) see? Squirrel! t


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