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TobyB last won the day on April 18

TobyB had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Carnation, WA
  • Interests
    sounds so... bland.
    Obsessed: racing.
    Fascinated: Cars. Making things out of metal.
    Serious problem: stuff.

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  1. Agreed to sort out head first, but then: Ireland Engineering Rock Auto (no, not kidding, sometimes they have them) FCP Euro (sometimes) AutohausAZ (sometimes) then: Wiseco J&E Ross Veniola... and I agree with Squid's- so when you're feeling totally dogged by it, post up a WTB for an old engine. Many of us have them kicking around, and will shuffle them off for a few hundred bucks. It'll be an old, tired engine- that will get you running again, and give you room to breathe. Where you at? kuz you don't wanna ship an engine these days... t
  2. oops, yeah, forgot about the oil pans. t e34 pan on an M54b30
  3. While you're googling, look up the Weber idle jet F number progression. The F part of the idle jet indicates the air correction drilled into the base of the jet. It sounds to me like your idles are too small, since they feed the transition circuit as well. Or that the throttle plates are closed a little too far, and are not being uncovered soon enough, leaving a gap between the idle and progression circuits. That's easily fixed on the new carbs by closing the idle air bypasses a bit and bumping up the idle screw. The main airs don't come into play until you're well up on the mains (say, 4500) at full throttle. Here's some light reading https://www.lainefamily.com/images/WeberTuningManual.pdf t
  4. Are you sure the E36 has a 245? I don't recall a 245 that has the M20 bellhousing... The one I just pulled was a 1:1 5th 220. The clutch master's not gonna work The shifter may be a donor, but only the ends and the lever itself. The diff guts can be used in an E21 case (look up Andrew's fantabulous write- up) but the case is waaayyyy different. The 3.44 ratio is nice with the 1:1 5th. The E36 rear view mirror sticks to the glass, Mike, sorry. Does the E36 intake fit into a 2002? Wondering if it clears the brake booster... The wiring harness will work if you keep the E36 electronics. Given limitless options, I would swap to an M44 OBD2 setup, but that requires M44 cam sensors. I find the OBD1 hard to interrogate. That said, given limitless options, I would be using 2 Teslae as donors. The driveshaft front can be used for the flange, but the rest of it is pretty different. It may be adaptable with cutting and welding, but it ain't gonna bolt up and run. (back half's too loooong) There's not a whole helluva lot else, off the top of my head. Some of the hardware's pretty useful. And I'm still packing up the bits of the '94... t ps, make sure the DISA diaphragm is good- they're NLA, and the E36 manifold really wants that to work.
  5. Nah- don't feel bad. Inverting the gear doesn't change the pitch. hee t
  6. I would put them on a shelf, in a nice display case. Plastic has no place under a car hood. 🙄 I particularly like that BMW learns from its mistakes. t the valve cover is cracked, the intake leaks, and the entire DISA just got sucked into #5.
  7. I'm sure there are one or 2 out there, but I've never seen a 'good, used' piston come out of an M10. Boring a 4 cylinder block's actually pretty inexpensive- and just like there are no good used pistons, the M10 block NEVER needs anything more. (for a street car) Likewise, 98% of all 'unfailed' cranks can run with just a polish. Bore it, new pistons, a refreshed head, and you have an engine that will run for 200k, and give 'new' power for 120k of that. t
  8. Good Lord. Somewhere in the attic of the shed, I have one of those in lead and tin. Well, 6 of the 8 cells are still there. I used 2 others for something else. I know they're vintage-high-efficiency cool, back when a pair of KT88's were a lot of amp but... they didn't sound all that good. t wishes he'd snagged a Langevin LINEAR wooden horn, back when.
  9. Soooo... one of the things that happens is, the ring lands wear, and wear, and wear. This causes the rings to twist more and more. Eventually, they can't take the twisting, and break. Once they break, the ends go to work on the lands for realz, and the ring- chunks make a bid for freedom. Through the crown of the piston. I did that once. Head didn't look quite that bad, but it was the same idea. t
  10. Does the flange sit too close to the trans to get nuts on it? t is never opposed to shortening a bolt.
  11. Take a look at the bridge bar that goes across the top, between the 2 shoes. With worn shoes and drums, and perhaps some misinstallation, that bar can wedge itself in such a way as to cause the brakes to servo, that is, apply themselves. It would release when you stopped and rolled backwards even the tiniest bit, and then not do it again until you duplicated the conditions. The PO of my race car had deleted the parking brake, but not that bar, and it caused several... misadventures... before I figured out enough to just remove the thing. Something to look at, t
  12. I am the Eggplant! (on your support pizza) t koo koo at-choo
  13. I tried; "well, my computer's no longer compatible with this website" and: "well, this BBS is pretty much all BS" and: "we're down to 2 2002s and I don't mess with them much any more" and: "I'm off the meds for good! WOoHOo!" and: "we've been at it so long that it's all been said at least 4 times" and: "Vat duh fuck?" but I rather like: "Tootle-oo, Caribou" t did not think to make it a survey. Because surveys are dum.
  14. Ha- I was going to say you might lower your first layer to get it to squeege onto the tape, and stick better. That seems to work with AbS. And yes, temperature matters more with both PETG and ABS. I don't know if my nozzle runs hot (ooo, baby!) or what, but I have found that PETG prints best 20c cooler, and ABS gives a better surface finish if I'm 30c cooler. It also shrinks less, which is to say, only horribly. For me, a higher 1st layer temp and close (.15mm or less) seems to help with sticktion. fwiw, t
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