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Everything posted by TobyB

  1. The new filters are kicking in. Slowly, because I can still get a text box. I was getting that about 2 weeks at work, and figured it was just the Seattle Censorshit Filters kicking in... t
  2. Go to realoem.com, find the part number, look at what it's used in, and you'll find you can buy the aluminum version for a buck or so from any of the usual suspects- Blunt, FCP Groton, RM European, etc etc. Or just take the sensor to NAPA- they'll have one. Aluminum works fine. It's typically called a crush washer. t
  3. Eh, feather out the sharp edges and run it. The head would have taken the brunt of that! I have yet to find a used set of BMW pistons that have the ring lands in decent shape, but I DO buy junk... t now working on a 408 stroker
  4. For an E21 alternator, it could also be brushes, voltage regulator or slip rings inside the alternator. Which would track it being independent of load. I agree, check grounds, check your charge voltage, check the d+ connection to the alternator- and then don't worry too much. Especially if you wire in a permanent voltmeter. Which is always good insurance. t
  5. lightening and resurfacing are 2 different things... any competent shop with a grinder or lathe can resurface one, but you want an experienced shop to lighten it. Even in 2001. t was there. Has the t- shirt.
  6. Oh deer. For $220, that's a lotta Canaloupe. But it has 'deep integration'. That's something we had in a re- org meeting the other day, and it kinda resembled a lot of bulldroppings that didn't say anything. Now, if it 'plugged into the factory deck's plug' maybe THAT would mean something. If it doesn't have an 8- track, it's not 'period correct' for a 2002, anyways. t
  7. My 2 cents- it takes a pretty hard hit to move the diff. If the repair bill was under $10k, and/ or did did not involve a clip, it's pretty unlikely it moved. It is also unlikely that the body shop messed with it. Unless they had to. They try not to. That CSB looks ancient, for whatever reason. It's also odd- the threads on the driveshaft bolt look like it's been apart recently, but the rust on the shaft itself looks 'period correct'. Without knowing what happened at the body shop, I think I'd just take it out, make sure the u- joints are OK, then try another, good- quality CSB and see what happens. t
  8. Weight. In a race car. In a street car, maybe not so much, honestly. t
  9. nah. Just get a better (lighter, too!) alternator! t would also Liposuction under the hood, to save on wire weight.
  10. I've owned a few. My favorite was an earlier, somewhat ratty car that I cared enough about to maintain and improve, but not so much as to keep me from flogging the hell out of it. Sideways from 50th up the hill onto southbound Aurora? No problems! Kind of like my current daily E46. (which gets all blinky when I try the same thing) That is now just about as old as that 2002 was when I bought it... t
  11. Malaga. White is for milk trucks and fleet vehicles! hee t
  12. And while they are at it, measure the depth of the machining, especially for the main jet stacks. I have a defective Weber that has one main stack sunk 4 mm or so too deep. There was no tuning around THAT. But a reversed venturi is a good guess, and trivial to check for. Honestly, any shop that wouldn't have done all of the above as soon as there was a problem ( and they called you to confirm that you wanted them to troubleshoot the problem ) would make me wonder just how comfortable they were with Webers... t
  13. Dynamat or other heavy material will fall on your head. Open cell foam will trap moisture. t from experience.
  14. One real problem with an HEI is doing what I've circled below- the wires should cross at right angles, not be tied together in parallel. The zip- tie is a particular no- no. Especially if the wires had loose ends, or poor connection, that'll totally cross- fire ya. t
  15. A while ago, I'a agreeed witcha. At this point, though, what's the chance of finding any old 2002 shaft in Ohio? Given that halfshafts fail almost approximately never, I never carried spares, even for racing. I vote for moving the OP to the FAQ section. t
  16. Uh, yeah- did you also know that you can use a 320 rear view mirror for a wider rear view? t keeping it all fresh
  17. YES!!! Or they get bent, misdrilled, etc. I chased the flange on the 4.44 diff for MONTHS before I figured out it was one part of the problem. Likewise, if the transmission is dropped on its output shaft, the shaft itself can bend. Not as big a danger in a BMW transmission, but in the Nismo version, it's got 18" after the intermediate bearing. So a small bend in that shaft leads to a very waggling flange. It all adds up... t
  18. Which '240' do you mean? There's the intermediate 4- speed that has '240' cast into its case. There's the later 5- speed that's redesigned to be more compact. That said, there's no kit for any of it. The synchros were available a while back and the bearings are pretty common, so it might still be reparable. The supply of either transmission in guaranteed good shape is pretty thin these days, it seems. ALL that said, getting the things apart is a lot harder than most transmissions. fwiw, t
  19. ...but sticks you in an 'unmodified' category, again. To repeat Ken's point, moving suspension points almost automatically moves you into a 'wide open' category like GT where the ancient BMW M10 gets the pants unceremoniously removed from it. Undies, too, unless you're really good. I've no quarrel with changing the front 2002 geometry (in for double a- arms) but DON'T like the use of the word 'race car' when you're doing it. Because racing is pretty restrictive when it comes to wholesale changes on cars. Dunno about the Synchronized Swimming of Racing, aka. driffffty... t
  20. ...and the 80 E21 and later have an inductive pulse generator in the distributor in lieu of points- it generates a signal every 90 degrees of the dizzy (180 of the crank), and sends it to the ignition module. I recall there's still a vacuum module on the dizzy, as well. As to sensing pick ups, usually the bright lights in your rear view mirror are the giveaway. t
  21. Agreed- as in, don't be in the same room as the driveshaft is! t
  22. That is one effing- short intake manifold. I fear you may be SOL. I would say ask Ireland, but I predict their answer will be 'go electric'. There IS a lever- actuated pump out there, but I don't know more about it than 'I done and gone seen a Pitcher of it on the internets!!!' t
  23. Agreed- or even MORE gently with a regrind! Have you positively diagnosed why the old one cracked? Classic is a lean overheat, but if you haven't fixed the cause, the replacement will, too. Something the furry one said, but I'd emphasize, is DON'T let it idle! To the point of running the idle screw in so that it can't drop below 2000 or so, if you have to. With a cam- heck, with any engine- once it's warmed up, drive it. And don't baby it. My version is to get it warm, recheck fluids and leaks and stuff, and then take a short run up Aurora- 45mph, lots of places to pull over safely, and it's easy to vary revs and loads. Anyway- as long as you keep fluids in it, don't let it idle, and make sure the valves aren't lashed too tight, you'll be fine. t

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