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TobyB

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by TobyB

  1. since it floats on water... I went through the dump the other day, and the Ferd weighs in at just under #5000 with me in it. the 2002 race car at #2000 with me NOT in it. the E30 race car at #2570 with me NOT in it the open trailer at #760 with the race car not on it, nor the truck hitched to it. The dog weighs #105 now. Jeezus t
  2. So, going back to the original picture. I think this might be evidence of some hocus pocus. I mean, look how ugly that block is inside, main bolt heads included, and the crank and rods are spanky golden. "Aliens built my rotating assembly" Again, I revert to the rattle can single- pot caliper theory. Or aliens. Or really cunning weasels t suspects there's a tail of a tale here...
  3. Hmmm, but.... .004" for a cast piston's almost worn out. I know the old hot- rodders run 0.003", but modern cast piston tolerances run darned close to .001". Which is .025mm. I forget what Ross wanted for their forged pistons, but it was quite a bit tighter than 0.003" meh, whatever. Ask Mahle, then do it their way. t
  4. Nathan, I agree- that's a LOT of effort for gold- colored invisible horsepower. It's also going to be a lot of potential debris once disassembly starts. I vote Jasco! t
  5. One of the major byproducts of combustion is water. Propane, kerosene, unleaded 91, it all barfs a LOT of water. Sooooo..... it'll make everything damp. And rust. And kerosene, at least, doesn't burn all that cleanly, so it'll eventually leave a film on everything. Suboptimal for surface prep work, as all of the fillers and surfacers you use for autobody are absorptive. The option not yet mentioned is a heat pump. Mini- split, whatever. Even some of the 'portable room air conditioners' can be reversed to provide heat. It's relatively efficient compared to a resistive electric heater, and dry. Otherwise, natural gas/ propane, but vented, so the moisture doesn't build up. Unless it's EFFING dry where you live in the winter. ( But it's not, because you live in Bellingham) Then propane's probably not a problem. well, except for the CO buildup, of course... t bain dramaged
  6. That picture shows the correct dome for a 121 head- I don't understand the 90.015mm note, as an 89.97 piston usually goes in a 90.00 hole. Maybe they want more running clearance for it. As noted in the 'which piston' thread, I'd ask Mahle. I too would spend the hardly-any-more- money for a set of ARP rod bolts. t
  7. Good point. Gold paint on rotating mass= 10bhp. I've heard of painting the inside of BLOCKS to seal them up and aid oil shedding. Never the rotating mass... t
  8. kinda like painting your single piston calipers red, methinks... I also vote deposits from lubricant breakdown. t
  9. TobyB

    Fall

    Don't step on the water meter! t
  10. It'll be fine- you probably WILL need that smaller belt, tho. skip the suspenders. t
  11. whups, I missed both the "3" and the "on" yeah, agreed, the park wiper in the gearbox has worn out. t
  12. nah, just that they were good for 5hp. If they were red. t
  13. Pantera! It's already just a buncha welded up square tube... ...and heck, if it was good enough for Formula 5000, who am I to argue? t needs downforts
  14. Just use a punch to drive out the remains of the stub axle seal. Ray is in Miami, on Vice work. t
  15. Ha! Yeah, even the '93 Ferd pickup's wiring diagram (yup, one!) covers 6 11x17" sheets. And the electrical service manual is bigger than Haynes and Chilton stacked together... t
  16. Do the basic 'unhook one plug wire at a time' check to see if it tracks a cylinder before you dive in. t
  17. Yeah, but then you certainly DON'T show her a picture of you doing it, 'just to prove you did'... ... so I'm in the 'don't use that pic' camp. One of the neater things about the center post lifts is that they could rotate freely- you could turn a 10 ton truck around with one hand. and holy hell, they weren't good at keeping the dirt they were buried in clean. t
  18. ...but that can be calculated, too, if you have corner- weighted the car. It also acts as a fabulous check to see how far from ideal a real- world suspension is, if the unloaded and loaded heights are known. The last time I played with it, more than a decade ago now, with calibrated and controlled springs and a set of scales, I had a fun afternoon measuring everything- and then tossed it in a folder that I promptly misplaced. Because once the car's baselined and handling about how I want it, I'm now just changing front or rear rates and heights and checking cross- weights. The absolute numbers, while interesting, don't matter much. And that's also why, when someone says they're 'serious' about tracking a car, that stock style springs are such a boondoggle. Adjustable perches are pretty much required to tune a suspension, as are properly calibrated springs. But anywhich, at stock rates, you'll be hard- pressed to make a 2002 oversteer, even putting the stiffest spring in back and the softest in front. Until you go into a corner nice and hot, and snap the throttle closed. THAT will do it in a hurry! t too many words
  19. Well, they were useful on the boat over, but after that, a lot less so. If you don't think you're going to nose up onto any curbs, go for it. Don't powdercoat the surface of the subframe that mates to the chassis. It'll promote subframe loosening as the plastic extrudes... t
  20. there's nothing special about those collars. I seem to remember 5/8", but measure before you order. t https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-collars
  21. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/forces-pipe-bends-d_968.html Velocity elbows? You might need extra bracing! hee t
  22. ...but subtract 7 when you realize that they're just the 5/8" shaft collars from McMaster- Carr.... t anodized
  23. Good Morning! It's raining here, too. Try wiggling the wiper arms. If they are stuck at the pivot at the base, it will feel 'solid'. It's hard to get lube in there, but not impossible- the knurled cap hangs over the shaft, presumably to keep water out. But some creative small- straw- bending can do it. If they're looser, as in the base of the arm will move a bit, but not pivot, then you're on to the linkage, and probably the motor. The motor's not too bad on an early car- but it's not 'quick', as it'll take an hour or 3, depending on how stuck or brushless it is. Your best bet? rain-x. Good luck! t


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