body and interior Heater valve options?

[jrhone]

Thanks for all the info!!!! I removed and tested my valve and that's not the issue. Moving on to other areas to find my problem.

['76mintgrün'02]

Thank you JohnS.  Quality stuff!  

 

I just ordered the O-rings you suggested.  (My valve is working, but I intend to take it apart for cleaning when I rebuild the heater box and replace the weeping water pump).  

 

Your testing technique is inspiring and I appreciate you taking the time to include photos.

[brandon5069]

Anyone ever try the VW heater valve (171819809E)? I know quite a few aren't using the OE mount point as it's broken, so this may be a suitable solution...

[Mike Self]

One final suggestion-when you get your old valve apart, use stainless steel screws as replacements so you can disassemble it again in 15 or so years (you are gonna keep your car that long, aren't you?)

 

cheers

mike

 

PS--heater valves in my '69 and '73 are both original and don't leak...yet

[Zorac]

Actually I had problems with the o-rings in blunts kit too, specifically the small one, managed to find some generic ones at the local napa. no biggie, the whole reason i wanted to blunt kit was to replace all the plastic internals on my valve, and it did that well.  valve works great now.

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Marshall,

  When I bench tested the heater valves that I rebuilt using the heater valve rebuilt kit from Blunt using the original seals that came with the kit, I was using air pressure to test for leaks on the valve.  They both leaked air around the shaft, so only the smaller of the two seals was leaking.  I have a test harness that I use for testing my heater cores where I pump it up with 10 psi of air and then see if it holds pressure (overnight).  The same rebuilt valve probably wouldn't have leaked anti-freeze when installed on a car.  I was picky and wanted it to hold air, so installed different seals.  I was is no way DIS-ing Blunt's kit.  I think it's awesome. 

 

I ordered the new seals from: www.theoringstore.com

 

I ordered seals made of V75 Viton after reading about that material's properties on the store's website.

 

The small seal is 2mm x 8mm V75 Viton O-ring Black  Model: V2.00X008 -- (2mm thick, 8mm inner diameter)

 

The large seal is 1.5mm x 31mm V75 Viton O-ring Black Model: V1.50X31 -- (1.5mm thick, 31mm inner diameter)

 

I believe that the smaller seal in the Blunt kit is 1mm x 8mm -- (1mm thick, 8mm inner diameter, not sure of the material it's made of)

 

That's it.

 

 

[M3M3]

One final suggestion-when you get your old valve apart, use stainless steel screws as replacements so you can disassemble it again in 15 or so years (you are gonna keep your car that long, aren't you?)

 

cheers

mike

 

PS--heater valves in my '69 and '73 are both original and don't leak...yet

the Blunt kit comes with all new stainless screws.

 

interesting that folks have had their rebuild leak.  mine is dry.  maybe clean/smooth mating surfaces a factor?

[boxy02]

J.R., I've used this one from a 60s bronco with no issues, $17 on eBay. You can hook up your cable actuator to it as well and it will open & close. Just make sure you orient it correctly ( so it will open when you slide the heater lever).

Cheers!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-STYLE-YG133-F-SERIES-BRONCO-HEATER-VALVE-C3UZ18495A-/400419434674?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3adbb0b2&vxp=mtr

Edited January 20, 2015 by boxy02

[ClayW]

I've always been curious if one of these would work, since they're so cheap.

 

http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/accessories/25-1011/valve-heater-p-2918.html

 

 

Universal kit available, too:

 

http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/heater-cores/50-1554/heater-valve-kit-p-12355.html

 

[PaulTWinterton]

I had my original heater valve replaced when I redid the cooling system. I fail to understand why people want a kluge fix instead of doing a rebuild or replacing with the correct part. It's not like it's a $1300 part.

 

Original brass with new seals (+/- $5) is the way to go.  Works, looks good, and it's original!  I believe they started making the valve with nylon barrel in 74.  (?).  If you have one of those then the Blunt kit is the way to go.

 

Discussed here as well:

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/151807-heater-valve-square-o-rings/?hl=%2Bheater+%2Bvalve#entry978602

 

Edit: Now looking at photos from other posts I see that some original valves have metal guts unlike the solid brass barrel.   I understand now that the nylon part is only the repair part supplied by Blunt, not a replacement for original nylon part. 

Edited January 21, 2015 by PaulTWinterton

[JohnS]

Great info John. Thanks for posting your process!

And thanks for putting the seal info in the heater rebuild thread.

 

If you want to make your own pressure tester for heater valves and heater cores (like I show pics of earlier in this thread)... Use some pieces of an old heater intake or output hose, some hose clamps, and here's where you can get the rest of the parts for cheap on e-bay:

 

30 PSI Gas / Air Test Gauge Pressure 3/4" NPT Body (~$13.50 ea)

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-PSI-Gas-Air-Test-Gauge-Pressure-3-4-FPT-Body-/181395991692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a3c0b2c8c

 

3/4" Male NPT x 3/4" PEX Brass Crimp Adaptor (~$3.00 ea)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Male-NPT-x-3-4-PEX-LEAD-FREE-Brass-Crimp-Adaptor-Cinch-Fittings-No-Lead-/200971641031?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2ecad7e0c7

 

3/4" Test Plugs (~$1.50 ea):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-Test-Plugs-LEAD-FREE-Brass-Crimp-Cinch-PEX-Fittings-No-Lead-Compliant-/181232760821?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2a325077f5

 

You Pump it up to about 10 psi using a bicycle pump.

 

Cheers,

John

Edited January 21, 2015 by JohnS

[ClayW]

You Pump it up to about 10 psi using a bicycle pump.

 

Unlike me. I once put, I don't know, maybe 120psi into a heater core to test it without even thinking about what that kind of pressure would do. That heater core is no longer usable. 

Edited January 22, 2015 by ClayW

[BLUNT]

Unlike me. I once put, I don't know, maybe 120psi into a heater core to test it without even thinking about what that kind of pressure would do. That heater core is no longer usable. 

Did the same thing to a brand new 600 dollar Tii tank after modifying it.  My buddy put 15PSI into it overnight to check for leaks and the regulator failed and it looked like  a weather balloon in the morning

[deanres]

There is a rebuild kit for the valve. It has all of the internals and I am sure Blunt has it. It is much cheaper than buying the whole new valve. I know others who are creative and may live in warmer climates have just retro fitted a plumbing valve that they manually turn on or off. 

[M3M3]

There is a rebuild kit for the valve. It has all of the internals and I am sure Blunt has it. It is much cheaper than buying the whole new valve. I know others who are creative and may live in warmer climates have just retro fitted a plumbing valve that they manually turn on or off. 

i am gonna guess you did not read the rest of the thread....

[KFunk]

I like Blunt, and he's been taken great care of me on many things.  But, $85 for a heater valve rebuild kit is well beyond my range for a fairly non-essential non-safety part.  I'd much rather spend that money on engine, suspension, or good beer.