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Zorac

Solex
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Everything posted by Zorac

  1. just saw this thread and though of a video I just watched on youtube!
  2. He will also put together custom auctions for you if you have an assortment of pieces, including ones he doesn't have listings for. I have ordered from him just a couple of times.....
  3. ii agree, my 38/38 doesn't like going that lean, and if it starts going over 15, i get the odd stumble. i try and and maximize the time between 13 and 14. that transition point from idle to main on the weber is tricky to tune around!
  4. haha, i feel your pain. and most of them never sit in the carb for more than 10 or 20km....
  5. i ended up bolting mine to one of the holes for the a/c bracket (i don't have a/c). i never did calibrate it (although it does come pre-set for the engine configuration so it is as close as can be expected without calibration), as I never went fuel injection. it does indicate knock at high rpm, which is to be expected, it isn't really a knock, just normal engine noise. if i recall right, MS has a cut off in the software to ignore a knock sensor past a specific rpm for this issue. i basically treat it as an idiot light as I am running a carburetor. edit: the link where i bought mine: http://www.viatrack.ca/
  6. not a refill but this is what is on my car currently: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/wiper-blade-direct-connect-40515 its a metal wiper from bosch so a good fit for the car
  7. the rest of the parts aren't cheap either. especially for us canucks with the poor Canadian dollar! I managed to get a 245 locally for a good price, but all the bits to put it in add up! as a result, my 5 speed is still awaiting install
  8. all sealing components and made sure it was very clean before putting it together and that fixed the flange issue but i was still getting oil from the bottom of the distributor when driving a bit more spiritedly. since i have changed to a slightly thicker oil , the engine is broken in now, and I have a new distributor. i'm not sure which was the issue but i still get a bit of oil on the bottom of the distributor but not enough to drip so I don't worry about it. on the gasket, I can't remember if i eventually went completely without RTV or not. not really related, but I had an issue on the output gasket on my tranny, turns out no RTV with the paper gasket is the best. Using RTV was preventing the paper gasket from expanding and sealing up the cover.
  9. PO took mine out, wish it was still there... All i was left was two holes in the firewall and a heavy bracket on the engine.
  10. mine has the blue paint, exact same shade and location.
  11. chrome on windows 10 here, no issues at all. if you are running any plugins try running chrome without them and see if you still have problems. for example, i have had some quirky things with umatrix on other sites, even when it was disabled for the site they still happened, only way to fix it was to disable the plugin.
  12. cost of cell phone plans always killed it for me, AT&T has their m2m or iot plans now which makes it reasonable. I hope that makes one of the cell providers in canada do it too!
  13. im pretty sure i have a sport 300 in my car but no #3 marking on it. there was a part number cast into the shaft and a S stamped on the flange. i compared it side by side with a stock cam and an IE292 cam and it was almost the same as the 292 but with the enlarged journals.
  14. the lock rings are usually reusable unless its been a used a few times already. its a cheap part though. if you already have the driveshaft off and its easy to pull the flange, give it a measure to check the size, there are actually two seals with different IDs. I think, but not totally sure on this, but it also correspondences to the output splines for the flange (course vs fine). check for spines for damage while you have it off as well especially since its loose.
  15. even with the rubber mount in the middle? wouldn't a slip joint let it move around too much in the middle mount?
  16. your not alone, never worked well for me either. there are a couple different baselines that you can start with though if one doesn't work. the link from les had a second baseline from carl, and there is another floating around that comes when you buy a carb from racetep. and o2 sensor is your friend if you don't already have one.
  17. willing to share? maybe put them up on thingiverse? id like to give them a go for my car. i printed a new dome light for my car, this looks like a good next project!
  18. thats what i meant, different lengths but the splines were a match to do what you say, rear 2002 section with a cut down e21 front section. thanks.
  19. so the back section of an e21 shaft and 2002 shaft are interchangeable? I didn't think of checking that... mind you, i think the u-joints on my e21 shaft are in better shape so i might cut it down and keep it anyway...
  20. does it make it unusable (moving the platform slightly higher) or can this be worked around?
  21. i have one in my garage beside a 5 speed for when i get to my swap, i was always under the impression it would work, but i have to cut it twice to get the center bearing in right spot and down to the right length, otherwise everything should bolt up.
  22. did that help with the transition toby mentioned (cruising to accelerating)? how did you plug them, just solder them up? details on which holes and which tubes you started with? ive tried 4 different sets of tubes and found the stock f50s to be best so far.
  23. Three chains: Oil chain: not sure why I didn't use this one in my rebuild Timing Chain: tried to buy a continuous chain for my m10 but there was an issue with the worldpac part number and i ended up with this continuous chain for a different engine. it was an issue with worldpac for a bit and maybe someone else remembers which engine it was for, i want to say an m20, but im not positive on that. Timing Chain: chain wasn't continuous and needed a link, the engine was built with this chain (so the link has been installed) but my builder recommended sourcing a continuous chain which I did so this was taken off before the build was completed just pay shipping/fees and these are yours.
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