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Mike Self

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  1. Mike Self's post in Steering box repair issue was marked as the answer   
    What you have circled in red isn't rust pitting--it's the casting/forging surface that wasn't machined during the finishing process.   Your pieces look just like what I found in my leaky steering box.
     
    I dismantled/resealed the steering box from my '73 that had over 270,000 miles on it, and found essentially no wear on bushings, bearings or the worm/roller--and the reason I did the work was it would leak out all its fluid overnight, so had been running with a minimum of oil for some time.  I did a column on the process; PM me if you'd like a copy.  And my box had 4-5 threads of adjustment left on the adjustment set screw, so it should be good for another 200k or so, now that it's full of hypoid oil...
     
    mike
  2. Mike Self's post in Wire insulation chafing. More Protection Required?. was marked as the answer   
    Easiest solution:  go down to your local hardware store or Lowes Depot and buy a foot or two of clear (flexible) vinyl tubing  whose ID is the same diameter as the cable's OD.  Cut off an inch or two slice, slit it with a box cutter, wrap it around the cable and then secure cable and sleeve with a zip tie.  Project complete...
     
    mike
  3. Mike Self's post in Rear panel trim piece - fitting clips. was marked as the answer   
    Try using a pair of ignition pliers (tiny Channelocks) to bend the nub up just a bit, slide the clip(s) past and then bend it back down again.  The jaw angle on those little pliers can bend the rim without damaging the outer part that you see.  
     
    Worked for me...
     
    mike
  4. Mike Self's post in Wiper Pivot Cogs was marked as the answer   
    Mike, if you're seeking just the splined end that holds the wiper arm to the whole wiper assembly, I  don't think they're available separately--at least there's only one part number shown on RealOEM for each wiper pivot.  However, those splined ends are pretty universal in terms of diameter, and there may be another German car (VW, Porsche, Audi) that uses the same size splined ends that are available separately.  Might be worth a look...
     
    mike  
  5. Mike Self's post in Leaky heater core, floor pan drain, both, neither? was marked as the answer   
    Easily done.  Simply connect the two heater hose nipples on the cylinder head/block with a length of appropriate diameter heater hose (available in bulk from an auto parts store).  Then you can pull the heater and work on it to your heart's content.  You do need to fabricate something waterproof to cover the hole left when you remove the heater or you're gonna get a lot of flow-through ventilation--and water if it rains.  
     
    The observed leak:  can you tell if the coolant is coming from inside the heater box (it'll either be running out the lower outlet doors or from the seam where the two case halves are joined) or is it coming from the plenum chamber--especially in the vicinity of the heater control valve. 
     
    If the former, yeah, the heater has to come out and be dismantled as you have a leaky heater core.  But if the latter, examine very carefully both the heater valve (they can leak when they're old)  and the little short hose that connects the valve with the heater core.  That little hose is a PITA to replace and is often overlooked when replacing "all the coolant hoses."  I was horrified to find that mine was 26 years old and hard as a rock when I went to do some heater work.  I had to break it up with a pair of Channelocks and then fish the pieces out.  
     
    Let us know whatcha find...
     
    mike
  6. Mike Self's post in Early Lower Timing Cover Pointer Hack Needed was marked as the answer   
    Per your first picture:  if the pointer goes into the blind hole at the 5 o'clock position relative to the crankshaft hole (and connected by a rib), I'll wager that's a 6mm hole.  It would be easy enough to tap the hole for a 6x1 mm thread, then take a bolt or machine screw of appropriate length, cut the head off and grind the end to a point (chuck it into an electric drill and go after it with a file).  Thread it into the hole with some locktite and your problem is solved.  
     
    Threading is probably a better solution than trying to press a rod into the hole, as too much pressure might split your casting.
     
    mike
  7. Mike Self's post in Fuel smell in trunk (arrggghhh!!!) was marked as the answer   
    I'm no tii expert, but the picture of your removed fuel pickup assembly (first picture) looks like someone really cranked down the screws that hold the pickup to the tank.  The metal around the screw holes is all distorted, as if there were countersunk screws used there.  One of you tii experts take a look at that flange; isn't it supposed to be flat around the screw holes?  
     
    mike
  8. Mike Self's post in Alternator bushings - getting them seated was marked as the answer   
    If you have a drill press--or even an electric drill you can hold down in a vise or with clamps...
     
    First, measure the ID of the hole on the alternator, then the OD of the offending bushing so you'll know how much material to remove. Then...
     
    Take the bushing and imprison it between two nuts and washers on a long bolt.  Chuck the bolt in your drill (press), turn it on and either hold a coarse metal file or 80 grit sandpaper against it, checking periodically to see how much material you've removed.  When you have it just a tiny bit smaller than the receiving hole, chamfer the inserting end of the bushing, lube it up and insert.  Even if it's a little loose when going in, it'll be compressed  between the washers and circlips and will be nice and tight once reassembled.
     
    mike
  9. Mike Self's post in Lower steering column finish (Paint or Powder?) was marked as the answer   
    I'm quite sure it was painted (vs powder coat), and it wasn't wrinkle paint--it was "splatter" paint, and IIRC I've seen that in spray cans, just don't remember the brand or where I saw it.  I checked on Google and Duplicolor makes a black splatter paint; perhaps other brands do also, especially if they make wrinkle paint.  
     
    I don't believe the factory (or the factory supplier) primered the aluminum casting before painting, so were I you,, I'd first spray with an aluminum-compatible primer, then go for the splatter top coat.
     
    mike
  10. Mike Self's post in Help identifying belt line trim part number 68' 1600 was marked as the answer   
    The stud plate is P/N 5113640145.  Those stud plates used to come in two versions, short and long, but IIRC the only ones available now are the long ones, so you have to trim a few mm off each end to use them on the curved sections of the beltline trim.  As for the washer, it appears there's both a flat washer and a lock washer.  The easy way is to take your stud plate down to the hardware sstore and find the proper size washers.  I believe those studs are 3mm
     
    As best I can tell from the parts book, the part numbers for the two washes are 07119931015 for the flat washer, and 071199333017 for the lock washer.  A hardware store is gonna be easier...

    AFAIK all 2002s used these same stud plates; give Blunt or Max a call and they can fix you up with the correct part.  
     
    mike
     
  11. Mike Self's post in Momo Cloverleaf - Tire size was marked as the answer   
    185/70 x 13 is the rolling diameter equivalent of the OEM 165/80 x 13 tires, and are the proper size for those wheels.  You could go to a 205/60 x 13 (very popular back in the day for 5.5" or wider wheels) but they're even harder to find than 185/70s.  
     
    A 175/70 tire is smaller in diameter and will mess up your speedometer/odometer readings, besides providing less rubber on the road and a little skinny for a 5.5" or wider rim.  
     
    mike
  12. Mike Self's post in recommended oil was marked as the answer   
    Since I don't drive my cars when it's really cold (below 20 degrees F) I've been using 20w-50 for many years--conventional oil before the 73's overhaul, and 20W-50 Redline since.  Seems to work just fine--but I did notice that the synthetic oil shows a few lbs less oil pressure than conventional oil.  Just enough to notice, not to worry about.
     
    mike
     
    PS  still use conventional 20w-50 in the '69 as it's never been rebuilt and I don't want to change either brands or types at this stage in its life.
  13. Mike Self's post in Best for restoration in Virginia North Carolina area was marked as the answer   
    Check out the discussion on Korman's shop a few posts above yours.  There seems to be a lively discussion going on, with most comments favorable about Korman.
     
    mike
  14. Mike Self's post in Dome Light Issue was marked as the answer   
    On a six fuse car, the dome light power comes from fuse 4--the same fuse tat powers the lighter hazard flashers and the clock (if you had one--you have a tach in its stead).
     
    Someone has swapped the feed to the dome light to either fuse 5 or 6, both of which are switched (hot only with the ignition on). 
     
    Best way to fix is to carefully unscrew the fuse box and lift it away from the body, being careful not to ground any of the hot wires on the fuse box underside.  Look for a red wire attached to the output side of the fuse box on either fuse 5 or 6.  Disconnect it, then use an ohmmeter to determine if that red wire is in fact the + feed to your dome light.  Connect one ohmmeter lead to the wire at the fuse, the other to the (disconnected) wire at the dome light.  If you have continuity, you've found the proper wire, so just connect it to a terminal under fuse 4.  
     
    mike
  15. Mike Self's post in New Speedo Issue was marked as the answer   
    + 1 on above suggestions.  And since the noise/twich occurs with two different speedo heads, I agree that the problem is most likely in the cable vs the speedo head.  You can verify by chucking something in a cordless drill that will engage the speedometer drive (a broken cable end, or what I did, file the end of a piece of aluminum rod square--it doesn't have to be perfect) and run the drill in reverse.  If no tick/twitch, then blame the cable.
     
    In addition to the above suggestions,
    make sure the cable isn't hung up on something under the car or even dragging on the ground (I've seen it on a 5 speed conversion!) make sure the fittings on each end of the cable are snugly screwed in place, especially at the speedo end.  It's possible to think you have the drive cable completely inserted/seated and the retaining nut fully tightened, and they really aren't. Try lubricating the cable with (duh) cable lube.  I've used stuff called "Lockeze"--colloidal graphite in a solvent that evaporates, leaving the graphite.  Or use cable lube from a motorcycle shop.  I was taught to lube a speedo cable by pouring the lube in the speedo end until it was running out the tranny end.  That's always worked for me...BTW, don't use WD40 or 3in1 oil... mike
  16. Mike Self's post in Ignition wires was marked as the answer   
    Yep, that's exactly what they're for.  That irritating buzzer (lurking inside the steering column surround) was usually the first thing that ended up in the neighbor's pool after purchasing a 2002 so equipped.  Followed by the emission controls (sorry CA!) and the seat belt interlock on cars so equipped.  
     
    To ease your mind, use a voltmeter to see if the green wire is hot with the ignition on, and if so, I'd make sure both green and brown (ground) wires are separated where they're bare, then drizzle a little silicone sealer to keep 'em from touching.  
     
    Mine have been broken off for years with no problems...
     
    mike
  17. Mike Self's post in Rear Panel Badge Roundel Placement was marked as the answer   
    My two roundies and Jim Denker's--roundels as placed by the factory--no replacement panels etc:  Nevada car is an early 2nd series '69; Sahara cars are a Dec 72 (mine on left) and March '73 production (Jim's on right) '73s.  Placement is consistent on all 3 cars.
     
    mike
     


  18. Mike Self's post in Mirror advice needed was marked as the answer   
    That's definitely an aftermarket mirror.  Is the mirror head metal or plastic?  If the latter, it ain't BMW.  Look carefully (perhaps after removing the mirror from its mounting bracket) for a maker's name.  It kinda looks like a French SIPA brand mirror that was common on 70s and 80s French cars, but it could be from anything, including the corner auto parts store.
     
    The correct mirror for your '76 is the "flag" mirror (rectangular head) fitted by the factory on the driver' side.  A passenger side mirror was never factory installed, but they were (and still are, I think) available.  You can mount it properly by making a paper template of the driver's side mounting holes, and flip the template over.
     
    mike
  19. Mike Self's post in Instrument Cluster Rebuild was marked as the answer   
    And if you like the (real) wood look and want to replace the petrowood with some that actually came from a forest, you can use the plastic piece as a template to trace the outline on a veneer sheet (to match your wood steering wheel/shift knob).  Use a very sharp box cutter to cut it out.  Some spray Urethane varnish (gloss or semi-gloss, your choice) and you'll have visions of a 2000CS coupe.  
     
    mike
  20. Mike Self's post in Brakes kicking back was marked as the answer   
    I'll wager you either have one or more incontinent rear wheel cylinders, or the lining has come loose from the shoe and is wedging itself between the metal portion of the shoe and the drum.  
     
    I just did a column about this happening; PM me if you'd like a copy.
     
    mike
  21. Mike Self's post in Finicky headlight switch repair was marked as the answer   
    + 1.  If you have an early, six fuse car, neither high or low beams are even fused.  And even 12 fuse roundies don't have fused high beams.  If you want to add a fused relay to your '73, PM me for the column I wrote on how to do this.
     
    mike
  22. Mike Self's post in Bad Cable or Bad Starter Solenoid? was marked as the answer   
    The original battery setup for a 2002 has a dual battery ground strap:  a large flat strap from the battery to the block, and a smaller one from the battery to the body.  With your trunk setup, you need a heavy ground strap from the body to the block, and another one from the battery's negative terminal to the body--back in the trunk.  
     
    In addition the OEM setup had a fairly thick (10 or 12 gauge) wire bolted to the positive battery terminal.  That wire carries all the current from the battery to both the fuse box and directly to the ignition switch.  I suspect that's one of the wires of the bundle fastened to the starter solenoid in your picture.  If that wire is loose or making poor contact, that would cause your dash lights not to function when you loose all your electrics.
     
    A quick test:  next time this happens, turn on your headlights and see if they work.  If they don't then I would suspect that main feed wire.  Finally, are the battery terminals crimped on to their respective cables, or are they fastened on with a clamp held with two bolts.  If the latter, I would suspect corrosion or looseness under the clamp.  Undo the bolts and clean---or replace them with crimped on terminals.
     
    mike
  23. Mike Self's post in WTB windshield wiper/washer stalk '74 2002 base was marked as the answer   
    Chances are pretty good that there's a short somewhere inside that stalk; it doesn't have those loose wires that flex every time you use the stalk like the 72-73 wiper/turn signal stalk
     
    All may not be lost with your current switch; IIRC someone recently posted a how-to on dismantling and cleaning/repairing one of those 74-76 switches.  And think of the satisfaction you'll have by fixing rather than replacing 😁.
     
    mike
  24. Mike Self's post in Modern fuel ok as it? was marked as the answer   
    + 1.
    I've been running that stuff (E10) ever since it was foisted on us, with no mechanical/parts longevity problems so far.  However, looking back on my gas mileage records (yeah, I know--I have 'em back to 1969) since ethanol has been added to the fuel mix, I've noticed my gas mileage has decreased.  I used to get near or over 30 mpg on my 1 barrel '69 on trips, now it's more like 27 or so.
     
    But on the other side of the coin, no deteriorated fuel lines, fuel pump diaphragms or disintegrating carb innards.  And my cars will sometimes sit for up to six months, and re-start with no problems...So far.
     
    mike
  25. Mike Self's post in Difference in Shape Between early 2002 and 1602 Bumper? was marked as the answer   
    On my '73, with its original front bumper and brackets, the measurement between the nose sheet metal directly below the center grille and the trailing edge of the bumper blade is 4 inches.  I'm sure someone with a '68-72 car can provide the same measurement to compare.
     
    When seen side by side, the additional protrusion on the 73s is quite noticeable--but provides more room for big driving lights!
     
    Also, the 73 (only) US bumper brackets are much heavier steel and are Y shaped and welded up, while the earlier brackets are L shaped and much thinner.  
     
    mike
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