Jump to content

KFunk

Solex
  • Content Count

    3,923
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

356 Excellent

4 Followers

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Southeast Ohio
  • Interests
    scuba, hiking, surfing, racing, etc.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Stock brakes are awesome if well adjusted, just replace all questionable parts with new. 'Upgrading' often just gives you things that don't fit properly and make it more difficult to maintain. '02 brakes are a little deceiving for many people that have just gotten old unmaintained cars, and when you feel the brakes are weak you blame the nature of the system and knee-jerk toward upgrades. With modern disc brakes like we have on other cars, those things will brake just as strong even when the pads are long past dead, then metal starts grinding on metal and it stops even harder, until finally you take it to a shop or caliper falls apart and you lose all your fluid and all braking, which rarely happens because people take heed of the horrible noises first. But with '02s, the rear drums really do need adjusted periodically or the braking will slowly get weaker and weaker. When you tighten up the rears, it will stop noticeably better, way better. You may also have ancient brake fluid that is mostly water, and a flush of the system will dramatically improve brake feel.
  2. I used a vdo brand pressure switch for a while, but the pump kept cutting out while idling after warmed up. I could hear it shutting off, and just revved it if I wanted to make sure the engine would keep running, but it was kind of annoying. I think my old beat stock engine just couldn’t make enough oil pressure to keep it triggered. After my rebuild it may do better, but haven’t tried it.
  3. I would rotate the distributor a little by little until you can get it to fire and run rough, then check the dwell with a dwell meter. Adjust points accordingly (setting it just by measuring gap is crap, you want proper dwell)l. Then, when dwell is correct, you set the ignition timing properly with a light. if you don’t have a dwell meter or timing light, get them! If you don’t understand how to adjust them, then learn! It’s easy, and you’ll need to do this stuff if you ever want to mess with this car much. Oh, and if rotating dizzy a lot doesn’t get it to fire at all, then worry about fuel supply. If fuel supply is good, and timing is way off, it’ll at least fire some occasionally. If it’s never fires without putting fuel directly in carb, then you got a fuel problem.
  4. If you do forget, you can run a jumper wire between the bolts on each side instead of tearing it back apart.
  5. Also, just try disconnecting your tach wire from the dizzy and driving it. A short in the tach wire or maybe a faulty tach can interrupt the signal between the dizzy and coil, killing your engine. Erratic tach readings could be related to this.
  6. There we go, managed to find the order confirmation in my email, Dennis Kirk is where I bought them: Two-Stage Pod Filter w/Angled Flange - 2 1/4 in. I.D. x 4 in. L - UP-4229AST Part #: 305044
  7. I, uh, cannot recall where I placed the order to find the receipt. Searching my emails and memory, no luck. May have simply walked into Summit Racing and bought them in person. I'll see if I can find a part number on them tonight. Yeah, I'm happy with them for the most part. Only issue is the stock base model brake booster in the way. They'll fit around it, just one pops up a little and looks goofy. I was hoping the bend would be enough to get around it, but no. Maybe combined with bent stacks it would look better, but I haven't cared enough to pay for those, and just using the straight ones.
  8. I don't know which size I have exactly, but I've got some red angled UNI filters, kind of like these ones: https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-fuel-and-air/air-filters/uni-2-stage-angle-pod-universal-motorcycle-filter/p/27761?b=24520&CRTP=psc&gclid=CjwKCAjwmKLzBRBeEiwACCVihl19w7qxmlv5B4Bkcc45bUvGTfWJ2eh8dMGHz7VRht4mtG0zMyGlSRoCT60QAvD_BwE
  9. Your luck may run out, depending on guiro built quality, like someone else was saying that there have been variations. My original one withstood lots of abuse and non-existent center bearing damper (really just flopping loose), but when I started fiddling with it and tryin got to make it ‘better’, I just screwed it up and went through 3 or 4 guibos. I am quite the abusive idiot though when it comes to driving, and regularly spin the wheels for fun and autocross. Throttle-induced oversteer is most of the reason I enjoy driving the 2002, hah.
  10. ah, I guess my 2nd port near my dizzy is long gone, never seen one before.
  11. Just since no one has mentioned, PatAllen on the FAQ has been making new tuner boxes to utilize the port. Not sure if he's still making them. It won't tell you much, maybe RPM, dwell, starter button, etc. But its fun. Also, you can hotwire the car and the starter via the port if you need. A simple jumper will put 12V to your ignition coil, and trigger the starter. It's been a while since I've done it, but a simple multimeter will tell you what each terminal does. Find the 12V hot one, and jump that to other terminals, and see what magic happens.
  12. Try pulling your tach wire off, and fire it up. Happened to me, and one other guy that gave me a giant snickers bar for solving his problem. A gremlin in the tach wire shorts out the negative signal from the dizzy to the coil, so coil has no idea when to fire right, and can be intermittent. For the proper troubleshooting of this, you can put a 12v Test light on the black negative wire between the dizzy and the coil. It should flash everytime the coil Is told to fire. In my case, it was a dull constant glow until I pulled off tach wire.
  13. Wait... what? Your conclusion is just to leave it as is? Nooooo, I said just get a new mount from a reputable seller. If you bolt it back together as is, that just puts you back to being one harsh clutch drop from having a very bad day. You got very lucky it lasted as long as it did.
  14. I'm with dlacey. Get a 5-speed transmission mount bracket from a reputable seller that's made many of them. I think maybe IE has some good ones, and I got mine from JakeB (don't know if he still makes them). Aardvarc probably has some too. Can a slightly off guibo make it 25K+ miles being stretched that much? I bet it can, especially with that stronger 6-bolt one for the 5-speed. It just takes a real hard clutch drop at the starting line to really tear one apart, but most people don't do that.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.