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KFunk

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  1. Can someone tell me how the trunk lock cylinder is assembled, such that when you push the locked button, it doesn't slide all the way internally into the trunk? My lock kinda fell apart and spilled its guts into trunk. The button/cylinder was sliding in and out wherever it wanted. 2x2 wood and hammer trick wouldn't open the trunk itself, but jamming little screwdriver into keyhole somehow managed to pop it open. I found the 90 degree arm that goes between the cylinder and the trunk latch had popped out and was sitting in middle of trunk. I put it back into the end of the cylinder, and everything works for opening and closing it unlocked. But when I lock it, the arm is no longer aimed in such a way to keep it from sliding past the latch arm, and the whole cylinder/button just slides back up inside if you push on it, like an inny instead of an outty belly button. There's gotta be some more parts or a spring or something that prevent it from being an inny, but not sure where they've went.
  2. AutohausAZ / Iwis are the ones that sold me a double-row, with the two tiny circlips (e-clips), and not the giant clip, and Iwis is the manufacturer that said that they didn't recommend trusting it for racing purposes, which of course is a thing I like to do without breaking my timing chain. So, I presume their single row has the same tiny circlips. Although, I still suspect the one recorded timing chain that flung off its tiny circlips just didn't have the clips all the way in the groove. Don't know for certain though, and so I use a continuous chain.
  3. Dude I'm gonna need more than $50 to fix that.
  4. If an M10 with a turbo isn't scary enough, then keep adding more turbo until sufficient. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbtgGTZflHw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx1gD_OSl00
  5. I've done it too... no issues. I think I even ran a track day with no oil pipe, hah.
  6. The arm that reaches from the keyed cylinder to the lock mechanism is built much sturdier on 76's (and maybe '75s), than they were on my '74. I suspect there was a bit too much slop in that mechanism in the earlier cars and stuff got bent, so they made them better. The updated version gives you a more confident feeling lock/unlock.
  7. So the support shocks can go bad like the ones that support the hatch or hood in every other car of mine?
  8. If it saves you some obsessive clicks, I did find a profile and he barely posted anything on forum. Last visit was 2013, so congrats to him (unless he has aliases).
  9. I stayed at the Euro Youth Hotel (hostel) for $15 a night near Hauptbanhof. Nothing much bad about it at all, much cleaner than much of San Francisco. Hostels are awesome for cheap/shitty accommodations, and you can meet lots of interesting travelers in the hostel bar / breakfast. I don't know how my wife would feel about staying in one with me though. It's not like a full hotel, just a place to sleep and meet people and have a great time. There are lots of free walking tours (tips encouraged), well worth it. Do go to Dachau, and probably Neuschwanstein. By all means, defintely go to the Deutsches Museum as well. It's a mechanical wonderland of all sorts of engine cut-aways and such from a historical perspective.
  10. and you'd be downgrading from a 2.0L to 1.8L...
  11. Heck, it's lookin right at us!
  12. Also, your car most likely has a relay above the steering column that links the ignition switch to the starter, as most later cars do. It might not be a 'relay' exactly, and more of a safety interlock of some sort. But, it can go bad and deliver weak power to starter. When mine went bad, the starter just made clunky noises, but yours may be different. New starter didn't fix problem, of course. The relay isn't available, but you can just bypass it by putting a jumper in. Figure out which post gets 12V when key is switched to starter position, and figure out which posts makes starter spin. Then just stick a wire between the two and wrap some tape around it. Earlier cars did just fine without a starter relay, so it should be fine. If you want to test if your starter is really bad, and not just ignition switch or circuit, just jump 12V from your battery straight to the switched post on your starter. You can even do this by just laying a screwdriver across the posts just right (it will spark, a lot). If giving 12V straight to starter makes it spin fast like normal, then you'll want to be looking elsewhere. Your 200ner may already bypass the relay though with its starter button, not sure, and not sure what other weak connections it may go through though. .
  13. Again, how thick is gasket under carb? Some people use a thick spacer for this very reason. Your fuel pump is in the engine bay as well next to the engine. Myself, and many others, keep theirs in the back near the gas tank. Your temp guage doesn't matter too much, although it could lead to that problem as well if you had a cooling problem. Today's fuel has 10% ethanol, and some say that it has a higher vapor pressure that leads to more vapor locking. It's arguable, but the mix is different. I have vapor lock all the time on my completely stock lawnmower built in the 90s. I had to take off the fenders to get better cooling, and then just put an electric motor in the back of the mower to remedy it. My truck also vapor locks quite a bit, but it does have a mechanical pump and the carb sitting on the exhaust. That's the stock setup though which must've been fine in the 60s, but apparently not now. On hot days I just have to crank it a little longer to push the vapor out.
  14. what about vapor lock? You know, when it gets hot and vaporizes fuel in the line, and the bubble prevents actual fuel from reaching the engine. This would be more of a problem on hotter days, and usually occurs when you slow down and decrease air flow over and around the engine. How thick of a gasket do you have between the carb and intake manifold? Is the fuel line fully protected from any heat sources? Any other cooling issues with car?
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