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KFunk

Solex
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Everything posted by KFunk

  1. I'm very anti-angle torque. I tried it by the book, got loose and blew headgasket within 300 miles. Back to old three stage! Also, re-check torque after driving a few days. Just do the three stages again, it may take a few more turns than expected.
  2. We're all weirdos, man. Being that we're weirdos, there's a high chance many of us are socially inept. Not intending to be rude, just not good at answering people in traffic. My own wife thought I was kind of a jerk when she first met me, and didn't talk to me again for another year or two, before realizing I was just weird and not rude, hah.
  3. Oh, so the breather tube is going straight back to the air filter housing, where you dumped too much gasoline..... (myself and many others just have breater tubes just going into a catch can or filter, venting to atmosphere) Soooo....... in an unhappy cold engine with a little backfire out the intake, through the breather tube, and boom!
  4. Well it depends on your definition of love, or is it just infatuation. I see love in their eyes, and most actually say they love it. Should I believe them? I've been hurt before. What is love? Baby don't hurt me, don't hurt me, no more.... haha. You could've just looked at my signature line.
  5. I should say that I also drive a vehicle that is way, way more universally loved than my 02. I mean there's no comparison in the attention received. In my 02, I often get conversations with mostly 'car guys.' Non-car people will often compliment the 02 if they happen to be talking to me, but they don't go out of their way as much. With the truck, its a whole other level. I have to account for time talking to random people at every stop. It's everyone, not just car people. I've almost caused wrecks from other drivers staring. When I come out from a store, I usually expect to be approached by someone thats been stalking it, and usually see someone taking pics of it with their phone. For many years, I had a '65 crudely painted on the tailgate that the previous owner did, which I think was a means to answer the first question most people had. Well I think that just forced guys into a more awkward question, as they just want some kind of excuse to talk to me. I got rid of the '65 on the tailgate, and I think it made some conversations easier.
  6. In dark corners of the internet, I've seen hurtful words said about the touring body style. I don't know why they'd go and tell lies like that.
  7. I'm personally not a fan of any ~50 year old wiring on these cars, but thats your call. Losing the 12V or ground to your tach shouldn't leave you walking, but I know a bad tach wire will get you using up your AAA tows if you don't know the cause.
  8. Did you try bypassing the whole stock wiring harness, and just run a wire from the tach to the coil? Weird stuff goes on with that tach wire. Somewhere 12V power can short into the tach wire and disrupt the spark signal, preventing the engine from running. It happened to me intermittently, as well as another guy on the FAQ that sent me a giant Snickers bar for figuring out his problem (there are two of us! two of us!). Your problem doesn't sound the same exactly, but just saying that stock wire is not trustworthy. I ran my own wire to replace it.
  9. one of my filter kits, cant remember which one, just came with a little rectangular piece of filter foam that you stuff in there.
  10. IE has never had the curved stacks for 40 DCOE in the sleeve style, or I would've bought them. They only have sleeve style for 45 DCOEs, and tab style for 40s. I had to go with my regular stacks with angled UNI filters, which still look a little goofy as 2 have to bend up over the stock booster.
  11. I'm a little confused, because IE's website says right in the description that those stacks do not fit the sleeve style, they only fit the tab style "These 4″ velocity stacks fit 40DCOE carburetors with tab-style stack retainers, and fasten using the original Weber mounting studs and clips........These are intended for Spanish-made Weber 40DCOE Type 151, not meant for the old Italian-made webers. These stacks do not extend down in between the venturi and carb body. The venturi on Spanish Weber 40DCOE’s are held in place by a set screw. " https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/4-angled-velocity-stacks-for-40-dcoe-carbs/ Why anyone at IE would tell you different than their own website, I have no idea.
  12. I usually buy the DIY high-perf plug wire kits from Summit Racing, in whatever color you want. Its like $40 for a V8 set, and you get enough to do two cars, hah.
  13. Come on over to Bring a Welder, and we'll take better care of you. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1859139631049482
  14. Stock brakes are awesome if well adjusted, just replace all questionable parts with new. 'Upgrading' often just gives you things that don't fit properly and make it more difficult to maintain. '02 brakes are a little deceiving for many people that have just gotten old unmaintained cars, and when you feel the brakes are weak you blame the nature of the system and knee-jerk toward upgrades. With modern disc brakes like we have on other cars, those things will brake just as strong even when the pads are long past dead, then metal starts grinding on metal and it stops even harder, until finally you take it to a shop or caliper falls apart and you lose all your fluid and all braking, which rarely happens because people take heed of the horrible noises first. But with '02s, the rear drums really do need adjusted periodically or the braking will slowly get weaker and weaker. When you tighten up the rears, it will stop noticeably better, way better. You may also have ancient brake fluid that is mostly water, and a flush of the system will dramatically improve brake feel.
  15. I used a vdo brand pressure switch for a while, but the pump kept cutting out while idling after warmed up. I could hear it shutting off, and just revved it if I wanted to make sure the engine would keep running, but it was kind of annoying. I think my old beat stock engine just couldn’t make enough oil pressure to keep it triggered. After my rebuild it may do better, but haven’t tried it.
  16. I would rotate the distributor a little by little until you can get it to fire and run rough, then check the dwell with a dwell meter. Adjust points accordingly (setting it just by measuring gap is crap, you want proper dwell)l. Then, when dwell is correct, you set the ignition timing properly with a light. if you don’t have a dwell meter or timing light, get them! If you don’t understand how to adjust them, then learn! It’s easy, and you’ll need to do this stuff if you ever want to mess with this car much. Oh, and if rotating dizzy a lot doesn’t get it to fire at all, then worry about fuel supply. If fuel supply is good, and timing is way off, it’ll at least fire some occasionally. If it’s never fires without putting fuel directly in carb, then you got a fuel problem.
  17. If you do forget, you can run a jumper wire between the bolts on each side instead of tearing it back apart.
  18. Also, just try disconnecting your tach wire from the dizzy and driving it. A short in the tach wire or maybe a faulty tach can interrupt the signal between the dizzy and coil, killing your engine. Erratic tach readings could be related to this.
  19. There we go, managed to find the order confirmation in my email, Dennis Kirk is where I bought them: Two-Stage Pod Filter w/Angled Flange - 2 1/4 in. I.D. x 4 in. L - UP-4229AST Part #: 305044
  20. I, uh, cannot recall where I placed the order to find the receipt. Searching my emails and memory, no luck. May have simply walked into Summit Racing and bought them in person. I'll see if I can find a part number on them tonight. Yeah, I'm happy with them for the most part. Only issue is the stock base model brake booster in the way. They'll fit around it, just one pops up a little and looks goofy. I was hoping the bend would be enough to get around it, but no. Maybe combined with bent stacks it would look better, but I haven't cared enough to pay for those, and just using the straight ones.
  21. I don't know which size I have exactly, but I've got some red angled UNI filters, kind of like these ones: https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-fuel-and-air/air-filters/uni-2-stage-angle-pod-universal-motorcycle-filter/p/27761?b=24520&CRTP=psc&gclid=CjwKCAjwmKLzBRBeEiwACCVihl19w7qxmlv5B4Bkcc45bUvGTfWJ2eh8dMGHz7VRht4mtG0zMyGlSRoCT60QAvD_BwE
  22. Your luck may run out, depending on guiro built quality, like someone else was saying that there have been variations. My original one withstood lots of abuse and non-existent center bearing damper (really just flopping loose), but when I started fiddling with it and tryin got to make it ‘better’, I just screwed it up and went through 3 or 4 guibos. I am quite the abusive idiot though when it comes to driving, and regularly spin the wheels for fun and autocross. Throttle-induced oversteer is most of the reason I enjoy driving the 2002, hah.
  23. ah, I guess my 2nd port near my dizzy is long gone, never seen one before.
  24. Just since no one has mentioned, PatAllen on the FAQ has been making new tuner boxes to utilize the port. Not sure if he's still making them. It won't tell you much, maybe RPM, dwell, starter button, etc. But its fun. Also, you can hotwire the car and the starter via the port if you need. A simple jumper will put 12V to your ignition coil, and trigger the starter. It's been a while since I've done it, but a simple multimeter will tell you what each terminal does. Find the 12V hot one, and jump that to other terminals, and see what magic happens.
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