body and interior Heater Valve Square O Rings

[jimmyb]

I looked through the archives and didn't find the info I wanted.  Can anyone help?

1972 2002 tii or any early model.

 

I'm trying to save a couple of bucks and rebuild the heater valve.  It is a beautiful brass valve.  The two o-rings are worn out. gone.  I think they were square o-rings.

 

Here's my options.

 

Buy at new one - $250

Buy a heater valve from another car for $25 or so

Replace the o-rings in my existing heater valve

 

One solution I thought was really cool was someone had installed a faucet/tap where the heater valve is.  I don't want to stop the car, open the hood and adjust the heat.  Ultra cool idea though.  Especially for racing.

 

If I use a heater valve from another car,  what car do I order for.  In the archives, I saw a lot of people saying they'd use a GM or Ford heater valve.  What car would I order for?  

 

If I replace the o-rings in the heater valve I have, What do I order?  I don't know the specs for the o-ring/gaskets.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

[peterschop]

check this out

http://www.bmw2002fa...a-heater-valve/

[PaulTWinterton]

I just did that job.  I, too, have the solid brass model, which ONLY needs seals if the insides are pretty.  Yours appears to be in very good shape.

 

Small seal - go to a plumbing supply house and get one. Round is ok.  It just has to fill the recess in the body of the valve, and fit firmly around the center shaft.  Shouldn't be a problem.

 

Large seal - much harder to find, if you can.  I ended up making one out of a sheet of rubber (1/16" - 3/32" thickness). 

 

Tricks,

 

I used scissors.  I pressed the valve cap into the rubber to mark and create the pattern for cutting.  Cut inner hole first.  Then cut around perimeter.  You can practise to make the best one.  Rubber should cost next to nothing. 

 

The one I used was not perfect in appearance but it filled the groove in the cap nicely.  Your valve is now good as new and shouldn't leak.

 

Total cost about $3.00

 

BTW, I bought an OEM piece of hose for the heater side of the valve.  I couldn't find the exact size of hose locally.  It really makes a difference when you are trying to re-assemble the system.

[pklym]

 

BTW, I bought an OEM piece of hose for the heater side of the valve.  I couldn't find the exact size of hose locally.  It really makes a difference when you are trying to re-assemble the system.

 

I used a 3/4" heater hose from Carquest for that piece and it seems to be fine, its only one MM off of the stock hose, hose clamps should be able to make up for that no problem. No leaks for me so far but I just did the job last week.

[JohnS]

You can probably find the correct sized O-rings here:

 

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=368

 

Good luck,

John

[Mike Self]

Another source of square O rings besides a plumbing supply house would be in a brake caliper rebuild kit.  Most calipers use square cross section O rings; it would be a matter of determining the ID and OD of the slot in the heater valve, then figure the cross section size and match up with an interchange book.  

 

But as was stated, round cross section O-rings work just as well.  A 2002 cooling system is only under 14.7 psi.

 

Glad to see you left the valve's control arm attached to the cable.  Just make sure you put it back in the correct orientation to the valve; otherwise you'll have warm air when the control is set to "cold" and vice-versa.  Ask how I learned this!

 

mike

 

PS  IRRC Blunt sells an overhaul kit for these valves; just specify the year of your car as there are two different-sized valves used on 2002s.

Edited March 15, 2014 by mike

[PaulTWinterton]

Had I known about the O-ring store I would have bought a dozen.

 

Another revelation.

 

For those that have (solid brass) leaking valves, but otherwise in good shape...you don't REALLY need to remove the valve from the car, which is difficult and time consuming.

 

1.  Remove the lever from the backside of the valve.  One bolt on the backside of the valve.

2.  Remove the 2 screws and washers on the cap of the valve.

3.  Remove the center barrel of the valve.  Note it's rotated orientation, "open or closed".

4.  Clean (all) the insides if necessary, removing any evidence of the old seals.

5.  Apply the small seal to the shaft of the center barrel

6.  Re-insert the barrel into the valve.

7.  Apply the large seal to the cap.

8.  Refit the cap to the valve and re-attach the lever on the backside of the valve.

[jimmyb]

Thanks for your help.

[jimmyb]

Remember Roadfly?  That's where I found my answer.  Thank you "dave a". 

 

-the large o-ring is a #026

-the small o-ring is a #011

 

If you have a Fastenal store near you, they have o-rings and more.  It's the only place I've seen that even has a real selection.  I've spent over $20 buying assorted orings so far only to have them not fit.  If the bag is opened (by them! not you), they'll sell you one o-ring.  If the bag is unopened, you have to buy the whole bag, BUT IT IS CHEAP!

 

They should be lubed somehow. I'll use glycerine.

 

The rebuild kit costs $90.  That's a lot for two orings.  At Fastenal, I got one #026 and a bag of #011 for less than $3.00!

 

I'll keep you posted how this works.  For now, I am sfhicjs (so f happy i cound just s)

[jimmyb]

PS Round "Buna N" round o rings should work fine.  Has a temp range of -40 250f.  Don't need square 0 rings.

[PaulTWinterton]

Welcome to the Heater Valve Repair Club. Another satisfied member.

Brass valves are a thing of the past it seems.

Kinda cool that the 02 has one, and it's easy to fix.

[73Inka]

PS Round "Buna N" round o rings should work fine.  Has a temp range of -40 250f.  Don't need square 0 rings.

send me your contact I will mail you a couple of o-rings