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pklym

Solex
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Everything posted by pklym

  1. still have. Make me an offer
  2. Brand new BMW 1600 aluminum badge, this came from Clay Weiland's group buy 2 years ago. I never mounted it and it's been in the shipping tube ever since. $75 includes shipping in USA.
  3. Sale Pending to Kingryan, once I find the title.
  4. I still need to sell this thing. It's sitting up in Kennewick WA not getting any love. $2200 and pick it up ASAP. Title is clean and in hand (in Portland) car is in Kennewick. Text 509-366-9262 or email peter.klym@gmail.com for the quickest response.
  5. where the heck is the delete topic button
  6. My fresh but stock M42 versus a tired M10 is night and day. I wasn't looking for a speedster but now I have something that won't slow traffic, is a joy to drive, and gets better MPG. Sure, I could have rebuilt the M10 to freshen it up, or built it up to match the HP, but it would have cost as much probably and still gotten worse MPG. These cars are light, an extra 20-30 hp is most definitely felt.
  7. How about one rear spring damper? (Black rubber that sits inside rear spring)
  8. Any easy way to mount bikes on those things?
  9. Misplaced one of my rear spring dampers during this project that has taken way too long. Not looking to pay for a new one. Pic below. It's the black oblong thing in the middle of the spring. Need it shipped to Portland, 97204. Also looking for two set screws that go from rotors to hubs in front rotors for e21 or Volvo brakes. I may just go without.
  10. There are 4 on each side, go through the rear drum backing plates to hold the plates to the trailing arm. I misplaced one side's worth of bolts and am trying to get this thing back on the road this weekend. Need shipped or delivered to 97217 (Portland OR) HEX BOLT Part Number: 07119913817 (07119913870)
  11. This is the car it could be (but is not currently, this is not the car for sale):
  12. I bought this car hoping it could be my restoration project. Since purchasing the car, I left a semi-cushy government job to be a public defender. Unfortunately, the stereotypes about being overworked and underpaid are true. I don't have enough time to keep my daily driver 2002 on the road and I can't imagine when I could get the time or funds together to give this car the restoration it deserves. Ultimately, I need to sell this so I can just get a car that works. It is a 1967 1600-2, originally and still Caribe with gray/black interior. Matching numbers all around. Has pretty much all the original unique early 1600 parts that begin to disappear in the 1967 model year. Including: original grille, embossed front trim, steering wheel, mirror, hood stops, shift knob, football washer reservoir (not pictured on car, its in my parts bin). I don't know a lot of the history of the car except that it appears to have spent at least the last two decades in arid SE Washington. When I purchased the car its story was it came out of a barn near Walla Walla along with an old Simca Aronde. It was last registered almost 20 years ago (until I registered it after purchasing it). There is not a part that doesn't need restoring, but the bones are all there and seem to be in remarkably decent shape. There is also a ton of spare parts that will come with the car. This is a project, but it is a doable project. I have taken a gazillion photos and a few (admittedly nauseating videos) that can be found here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/bkFNB5qEzvW7sYmi1 I am not look to deceive anyone into buying this car. If the photos do not answer a question you may have, please let me know and I will do my best to address it. The best way to reach me is at Peter.Klym@gmail.com There is quite a bit of surface rust with a few spots that are more serious. The spare tire well will need replacing, the rear parcel shelf needs major patching, and where the trim seals go all needs cleaning up but shouldn't be too much. The rear shock towers look excellent, the rockers have some rust but are not gone by any means. I did some sanding and wire wheeling near leading edge of the rocker and got down to bare metal pretty easily (and then treated it so it would not rust up). I was doing investigation not repair and I was pleased with what I found. The floors seem solid. If I were to keep the car I would be doing the metal repair myself, and I don't have experience with that. The tail light area and the rear rockers behind the rear interior panels need the most work and you can see that in the pictures. I believe the pictures make some of the rust spots look worse than they are, but with rust you want to assume the worst anyway so maybe it evens out. I have not attempted any engine work. The bay looks complete but I would assume the engine has not turned over in two decades. Seats and panels will need revinyling. Dash is chewed up some. Has a console with a radio. Has all the glass except rear windshield (glass not installed, needs new seals all around). Spare parts are too many to list, check the pictures. The car is located near Kennewick, WA at my parents. I live in Portland, so there may be some delay in getting responses to specific questions or requests for pictures.
  13. pklym

    pklym

  14. I had a hell of a time with my M42 getting started. Six months later, I replaced the brand new CPS with another one and it fired right up. The first one tested out fine but some online retailer sold me a slightly different part that just didn't work right (despite fitting and plugging in fine).
  15. Just pulled my subframe and see my left trailing arm is a bit kinked. Might as well replace it now if I can find a suitable part. Looking for a left trailing arm in good shape, rust free, I can repaint if necessary but would rather not. I will be replacing bushing and bearings. Let me know what you have, ideally in the PNW, or with shipping quote to 97217. Could be talked into a whole new subframe if the part/price is right.
  16. I haven't heard from the guy that makes these in a few months. I will send him another message. I am still up for coordinating if he will make.
  17. I am doing it with the trailing arm mounted. It does make it quite difficult to get much of an angle from the inboard side. I have also not been able to pry the inboard seal out. Not having any luck with my drift and hammer yet punching from the inside. I wouldn't be surprised if the bearing is already cocked from all the previous wailing on this area.
  18. I ended up with access to a weak battery powered impact driver and that removed the allen heads with ease without turning the axle. BUT the damn shaft wouldn't drive out, I could get it most of the way but the last inch or two would not budge. I ended up pushing it back into place and angle grinding as much of the tip as I could, that allowed me to drive the rest of it out. Now, of course, the damn bearings won't budge. I think i'll be investing in a bearing removal tool and hoping that works... This passenger rear side has been a real pain.
  19. I boinked up my stub axle trying to get the flange off. I have a replacement, but I am having trouble figuring out how to remove the stub axle (the sun setting on me and the vagueness of the Haynes manual were very much contributing factors). I would think this would be something a search would help with but alas, I got nothing. Hopefully, this will pop up when the next sap tries. It appears that I need to loosen the 6mm allen bolts on the axle, I was able to bust one loose, but the tighter ones result in the axle just turning. The car is in gear, which I thought would prevent the spinning. What can I do, short of an impact wrench, which I don't own, to get the damn stub axle off. Progress is slow, but there has been progress.
  20. Finally got the bugger. Upgraded my torch to MAPP gas and borrowed a sledge hammer that was way too big for me to be wielding. About 10 minutes of heat and shocking back to cold plus a bunch of smacks did nothing. Another 15 minutes or so of heating and I started hearing some "tink"ing, and I new I was in business. It still took about 30 good whacks with the sledge to get anything to budge, but it happened. Thanks for the assistance.
  21. A few of these I believe I know the answer to, but the FAQ article is not abundantly clear so I want brief confirmation: 1. The rotors no longer go inside the hub, instead, they rest on the outside of the hub and are held in place by calipers and the wheel, yes? (there is a fifth hole in the new hubs and the rotors, should I be finding a bolt for that?) 2. The volvo calipers do not fit with the stock backing plates, do I need to be taking a dremel to them, or is there a different solution? 3. The volvo calipers should have the two bleeders on the inside (on top, and in the middle) with the solo bleeder on the outside? 4. On my pair of calipers, on one side, the brake pad retaining pins/slides, have two different sets of holes for the little retaining pin. The other side only has one set of holes, and it is too close to the edge of the caliper to allow the retaining pin to go inside the pads. I assume this is an important piece and I either need to get new pins or drill holes out on the other set? 5. The spacer washers go like this: Inside-->Bolt hold-->stock washer-->caliper mount-->NEW WASHER-->spindle mount. Right? I think that's it for now. Thanks
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