UUUhhh! yeah! One upon a dash for pencils 'n stuff. And that cup holder... it's like sporty style custom enlargement for oem center console. One can put a handfull of ice cubes to a toe department. I like it already
I can't see timing chain and nicks on it. What i see is camshaft flange with some hammer blow marks on it which shouldn't be there. Some tainted love i gather someone has given it.
MOTed M2. All good Nice man told me to tighten front wheel bearings which i did. Removed winter weight from the trunk and put one of loud speakers wire back in its place.
When me in my 02 and moose ran side by side there was no time to take pictures. We eyeballed each other for a while and then moose desided to head back to forest it had came. That sure was a close one huh?
One thing comes to mind that i think is worth mentioning... when choosing calibers do check what pads you need. Friction materials that are available (one's you want to run) and prices. Your newly purchased hipo cheapa$$ calibers might use (thin) pads that costs as much as those calibers did. At that point people are usually a bit disappointed.
EricB. Yes rotors are 345 mm 32 thick. Hubs are made of 7075 aluminium. I'm using 17" wheels. Air ducts (76mm/ 3") comes from front air dam. One per wheel.
I'm running 345 mm rotors at front. Tii bearings in Al-hubs. Just few races with these rotors. All good so far. Before i had 328 mm Alcon discs for years. Only issue was calipers. Binned Wilwood superlite II's that i used and went for AP calipers. Totally different and better feel! Wilwoods flexes in bleeding process quite a bit even with bridge bolt. Can't really recommend those for anything - sorry. Maybe for modest street use but then again wouldn't one want decent calipers even for that use?
Have you tried to drive it without booster? Plug the nipple from manifold. Does it still stall when braked to a stop? If not the there is something wrong with booster, hoses or valve. If symptoms stays then i'd look manifold gaskets for a leak.