Windshield Gasket Advice Needed

[Billsmith]

My 1973 BMW 2002 tii has been garaged for at least the last seven years.  It is practically rust free, in great mechanical condition and ready for a road trip.  I paid the price and spent the time to have an expert mechanic go thru the car.  Under my "watch" for the last eighteen months, nary a drop of rain has fallen upon it nor has it received a full on carwash with a hose.  The only cleaning has been an occasional wipe down with great care.  Prior to that, the PO kept it in a garage for five years only driving it a total of 250 miles during his conservatorship.  On May 12, I will be taking the car on a 600 mile road trip so it can spend the Summer in the Hudson Valley of NY.  The remote possibility exists that nature will not cooperate and the entire trip will be through monsoon conditions.  My question for the BMW FAQ "brain trust" is what if any remedial measures should I take regarding the original windshield and gasket.  The car has all original glass.  I have been so proud of the two original window stickers, carrying myself with a bit of a swagger, that I have not been able to bring myself to risk losing the windshield in order to replace the gasket.  Check out the photos included in this post.  I am looking for advice.  I think I have the following options:  1.  Don't worry about it.  Drive the hell our of it.  Take a beach towel to tuck above the dash if a monsoon is encountered.  2.  Attempt to "improve" the existing gasket with carefully applied butyl rubber sealant or with 3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound.  Finally, time does not permit for replacement of the windshield prior to the trip due to the twists and turns that may be encountered if I go down that road which could leave me driving up there without a windshield which would be an even greater risk that the risk I currently face.  THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY AND ALL ADVICE.

['76mintgrün'02]

My gasket looks even crunchier than yours and it still keeps water out of the car. 

 

 

I have a new gasket and windshield that I'll probably install someday, but I've been saying that for ten years now.  I guess I vote for option number one.

 

When you do decide to change the gasket, buy the BMW version, not the URO seal.  There have been a lot of posts over the years saying the URO seal doesn't fit well.

[NYNick]

Bill,

 

I think the windshield gasket is the least of your worries when facing a 600 mile trip in a car that is "new" to you. I don't see a sunroof, so no worries about that leaking into your rocker panels.

 

Spend some time developing a road trip must have tool bag and accessories. Flares, jack, good spare, tools etc. There are plenty of threads for this for old cars. I might even suggest AAA or some such cheap insurance, just in case. And get new windshield wipers.

 

And you don't have to replace your windshield to replace your gasket(s). I pulled my old windshields myself and did the gaskets. The gaskets were the worst part, and the old windshields are back in my car.

 

Bring some towels just in case you spring any leaks. Airing them out and drying them is the most important part of them getting wet.

 

Courageous trip. Good for you. There are a few of us here in the Hudson Valley.

 

Nick

[Conserv]

Bill,

 

I have no particular short-term suggestions for your weatherstrip issues, beyond the towel approach endorsed by Tom. Even if you assume water gets past your decrepit gasket, I’m betting your car will dry out unless you continue to park it outside for an extended period of time.

 

As to an actual, a.k.a., long-term solution — versus an avoidance-of-all-rain solution — removing that crumbly gasket and its lockstrip should pose little risk to your windshield in the hands of a windshield professional. This assumes you’re willing to sacrifice that original gasket (?) and you don’t care if they slice it as part of the removal process. It also assumes the original windshield has no existing cracks or significant damage, such as delamination, chips, or past repairs, which might create weaknesses.

 

And while I generally applaud originality, I’ll admit I usually favor safety over originality. I loved that my ‘76 — I bought it new — had its original glass going into its first re-paint, 2015-18. I assumed it would have that glass as long as I owned the car. But driving the car regularly before the re-paint, I was reminded that, after 100K miles of my driving, the entire windshield was covered with “micro-chips”, tiny stone chips you could not see until the sun was at just the right (wrong?) angle, making the windshield a visibility hazard. Although it hurt at the time, I decided that re-installing that original windshield posed a risk to me and others, and I replaced my original windshield. I have zero regrets about that!

 

Good luck with your spring drives. I’m wishing you dry weather!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[John76]

I too have the original windshield gasket on my car, and it is much crustier than Tom's! 

I've been driving around for the last 4,000 miles without a lockstrip and it still doesn't leak (wind, rain or hand wash). And, hasn't blown off on the highway...yet.

I really got lucky at the Bay Area '02 Swap & Show last October and won the raffle for a windshield install! Hopefully I can have a new BMW gasket and lockstrip installed before the May 7th show this year. The windshield is in good shape, with very minor microchips after 30k miles of driving, but if it doesn't survive the new gasket install...so be it.

Absolutely agree with the emergency road repair kit. Include any critical ignition/fuel part that is not readily available.

John

PS: Tires and brakes? Might check/grease your wheel bearings too.

 

 

[Stevenc22]

Obviously you do need to replace that windshield gasket. However if it doesn't leak while spraying it with a garden hose, you are probably good to go. If it goes leak, you could tape around the gasket with masking tape and then try smear black silicon caulk into the cracks and try and make it more waterproof as a temporary measure.

[Mike Self]

In addition to all the other suggestions:

 

Before embarking on your trip, hose the car down--preferably with someone else manning the hose while you watch from inside.  To look for windshield leaks, you'll have to observe from under the dash, as it's more likely to dribble down the inside of the firewall than puddle on the dash (although it can also leak onto the dash).  If it doesn't leak in a hosing, then unless you encounter a hurricane or tornado, it won't leak on your drive.  

 

But you really should replace that gasket sooner rather than later.  A good glass shop will cut the old gasket out, thus not putting any strain on the glass.  

 

mike

 

PS--And yet another Sahara '73!

[Billsmith]

Thanks to all for the prompt and insightful responses.  Much to ponder as I contemplate my next steps.  What a great forum and means for the ignorant (me) to connect with the experts!  All advice appreciated.  Maybe I won't have to learn everything the hard way.

[BarneyT]

Order the bmw original front and rear seal and the silver locking strips and take a towel with you. When you return from your trip look for someone old enough to understand what you mean when you say you want them roped in and the install of new seals should not damage the window stickers…I’ve seen pictures of old women in skirts installing the windshield when the cars were built…

Edited April 18, 2022 by BarneyT

[calw]

Th employees of the big name auto glass companies with shiny mobile glass trucks will likely be clueless about a windshield that isn't installed with just goo and blue tape to hold it in until it dries.  Your windshield was installed before they were born...   They also probably haven't encountered a headliner that attaches under the gasket and needs a little care to survive the installation.  A small independent shop is more likely to be helpful. 

 

Removing the old windshield isn't really hard if you want to do that part yourself, just time consuming - Use sharp xacto knife blades (some will break in the process).  Slowly, carefully nibble away at the crusty rubber making sure to not touch the glass with the blade- Starting with enough rubber removal nearest the lock strip to get at it's end and hopefully pull it out in one piece or large sections.  Once the lockstrip is out, you can continue to cut away at the gasket, again making sure to not touch the glass with the blade, with an eye toward pulling long strips nearest the edge of the glass off, thus exposing the edge.  Continue for hours on end until the edges of two sides of the glass are visible, and out it comes.  Along the way, lubrication with soapy water or Windex at the point of cutting will help a lot.  This procedure is how I did it on my '68's original clear windshield and rear window.

 

WARNING:  Resist the urge- Prying between the glass and gasket with a screwdriver or other metal tool might work with fresh rubber, but I would not try with old glass (and more importantly) crusty gaskets.  You will hear crunching, glass chipping sounds at a minimum. 

 

Installing the new gasket and old windshield?  I didn't even try!  An older pro window guy did both front and rear for me in about 20 minutes with no fuss.  I was able to get it done while he was at my place replacing a windshield on another, much newer car.  I called around and found him willing to do both jobs in one visit.  Two of the big franchises told me you couldn't get gasket or glass for a '68 1600-2 and they wouldn't do the job with my parts.

[Billsmith]

Very helpful information.  Regarding a suitable lubricant, I viewed a YouTube video where the DIY installer recommended WD40 as the lubricant to make the gasket cooperate in straddling the phlange.  Your thoughts on that?  He found that the soapy water dried too quickly.

[calw]

Longer lasting, tougher to clean up, don't know if it will have an effect on paint.  I assume he was installing, no useful experience there, sorry.  I'd probably rather consider using a spray silicon lube product though IF I were brave enough to try.

[Son of Marty]

30 minutes ago, Billsmith said:

phlange.

Please this is a family friendly site.

[TobyB]

Don't goo it.  That only works if you goo when you install.  After the fact, all it 

seems to do is look ugly.  I've tried several times, and it still leaked.

 

Cal is too gentle- use a matknife, and have at it.

 

Old windshields suck.  I'd much rather be able to see through it at night

than have it 'original'.

 

" It is practically rust free"

 

uh huh....

 

Don't use silicone- it's hard on rubber and paint.  Dish detergent has the 

distinct advantage of being water- soluble, so it rinses right out.

Use a LOT of it.

 

Rust takes several things:  water, oxygen and TIME.   If you get soaked,

as everyone else says, just get dried out as soon as you get home.

Avoid salt like crazy- it's a brutal corrosion catalyst.

 

t

low sodium

[Mike Self]

2 hours ago, TobyB said:

Dish detergent has the 

distinct advantage of being water- soluble, so it rinses right out.

Use a LOT of it.

Another thing that works well and won't dry out..."personal lubricant."  Doesn't attack rubber, very slippery and stays slippery for quite a while.  And doesn't harm a thing, including your skin ?.

 

Also good for install cooling system hoses in awkward places, like the heater and heater valve...

 

mike