Tii Fuel Pump filter?

[Andy74tii]

Thanks John! I am following Keith's guidance around keeping that original plug intact - just in case the original pumps come back into production. My update preserves that plug and I will just plug in the spade lugs that will fit in that plug, and use an original rubber cover identical to the one on the other side which should cover it. Looking forward to a quieter and more reliable pump, but preserving the possibility to revert to original if a future owner wants that. My view of all this is that we are just caretakers for future owners.

[BarrettN]

Opps - Somehow my previous post lost all my carefully crafted prose, leaving only the picture of my fuel tank. Apparently the PO of my car didn't do a good enough job of removing the rust before using what looks like the Eastwood tank sealant - the result being the atrocious mix of rust and bubble gum seen in the picture. So, make sure you get out ALL the rust before doing anything more. Plenty of good thread here on rusty gas tanks, I bought a replacement tank in decent shape. Now there are repro tanks being made, and the word is that even tii tanks are in the cards later. If you have a tii tank that's shot and can't wait for the new ones or find a decent used one, Gas Tank Renu would be my other choice - they use steel media to blast the interior, fix any holes, and then bake a pvc liner inside the tank - lifetime warranty, but not cheap.

 

@JMMcR75 "I plan on replacing the original pump wiring harness back to its connection point in the trunk by the tank, making it easier to include an inertia switch in the wiring to turn off fuel supply in case of accident." - Consider going to a heavier gauge wire. I'm going to be doing this myself, I've looking for some 10 gauge GXL green w white stripe wire myself, if I can find it in lengths under 100'. 

 

There's a connector (or at least there is on a '74) in the trunk where I'm planning on installing my inertia switch - the Ford units can be picked up off eBay for a reasonable price. I'm planning on making a pigtail so that it plugs right into the harness.

 

O'Reilly sells Gates Barricade fuel line in bulk, it's abrasion resistant and rated 225 psi. 5/16" is 7.9375 mm - close enough for me.

[Andy74tii]

At the same time, I am also changing the filter up by the radiator. I think the original I have is no longer in stock, and I ordered the two seen below. Any experience/recommendations for either one - Hengst or Mann? I use only Mann oil filters, but never this particular fuel filter.

[iinca]

I went with a 5 series pump. I lost a few lbs. of fuel pressure when I did put a filter in between. I tossed the filter and it ran way better..

 

There isnt an actual filter there stock.....its just a screen. A screen is alot less restrictive than a paper filter

 

The key is to keep the tank CLEAN and have faith in the front filter and kugel inlet screen

[Son of Marty]

Screens before pumps and filters after the pump, always.

[dlhoovler]

10 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Screens before pumps and filters after the pump, always.

 

So somewhat OT, but what do you recommend if adding a low-pressure electric pump to a carbed car? No inlet screen AFAIK. I have a largeish inline paper filter to use between the tank and pump (I know my tank has some junk in it that gets past the tank screen), but I can't find a screen-based inline filter as easily as paper ones. 

 

-Dave 

[Andy74tii]

Finally put it all back together and it's running great. I used the Mann filter btw, will see how that one works...

['76mintgrün'02]

5 hours ago, dlhoovler said:

what do you recommend if ... my tank has some junk in it?

 

I recommend cleaning the tank.   

[Son of Marty]

+1 on Tom's (minty) post clean the tank first, there are filter bodys that just have a screen in it, check one of the online hot rod sites like summit.

[JMMcR75]

Congratulations on your fuel pump upgrade, Andy74tii!  I'd been working a schedule similar to yours, and also completed replacement with the E24/E24 pump this week.  It is quiet and nice, and the engine seems happy.  I'll post some information here in a different thread.  Following your advice, I kept the original wiring harness and just added a pigtail.  I appreciate everyone's discussion of screens and filters - it was a big help.  I elected to depend on the in-tank screen and the canister filter by the radiator for now.  For what it's worth, when I look into the intake nozzle of the E24/E28 Bosch 0580-464-048 pump, there seems to be a built-in pump-protection screen already in the line, similar to the removable screen in the original pump.  Picture is attached.  Thanks again for everyone's advice.

[Andy74tii]

That is an amazing find, John! I wish now I had taken a peek at mine, but when we compared notes, I saw we had the same part number, so I have to assume mine has the screen as well. As per above, I did put in a new filter up by the radiator, and also I had cleaned up the tank screen, which was somewhat grungy. Since it had been 20 years since I replaced it, I went ahead and did that as well. Thanks for the advice!

[dlhoovler]

8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

I recommend cleaning the tank.   

 

8 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

+1 on Tom's (minty) post clean the tank first, there are filter bodys that just have a screen in it, check one of the online hot rod sites like summit.

 

That's completely fair. I don't think it's horrible, but the clear filter does get a little crud in it now and again.

 

Nowhere near as bad as my dad's '54 GMC. Twenty years ago, it died on me when I was taking my then-fiancee on a drive in the country. Turned out the glass filter (metal screen) before the fuel pump was packed full of rust from the tank. I cleaned out its tank, but considering the truck's been sitting for more than a dozen years now, it probably needs it again... 

 

-Dave

[2002#3]

In addition to adding and changing filters...

 

There are senses of security, inner peace, calmness, and euphoria that come with knowing your fuel tank has been thoroughly cleaned, de-rusted, and coated.  After about a week of cleaning, drying, rinsing, drying, rinsing, drying, de-rusting, drying, coating, and drying, its interior could look like this:

 

Larry

 

[VeroTii]

Sirs,

I have just completed the same conversion (with an in-line clear glass filter just because I could) and am ready to reinstall the pump.  The new outlet location looks like it comes VERY close to the passenger side rotating differential output shaft.  I have not actually installed it yet but it is making me nervous just test fitting it.  Has anyone else had this issue?  

[jgerock]

2 hours ago, Jeff McGinn said:

Sirs,

I have just completed the same conversion (with an in-line clear glass filter just because I could) and am ready to reinstall the pump.  The new outlet location looks like it comes VERY close to the passenger side rotating differential output shaft.  I have not actually installed it yet but it is making me nervous just test fitting it.  Has anyone else had this issue?  

Yes! I noticed the close proximity to the right CV joint. I ended up switching to the e30 318 in tank pump. Great write up by Bill Williams in the “Articles under Construction” section.