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Funny coincidences. We also went out to dinner tonight to celebrate our Freude’s (2780988) 50th Birthday. The other coincidence is that Ben Thongsai also performed a roadside healing of Freude’s Kugelfisher belt in record time on the way to the 2021 Vintage in Hot Springs. Story at the link below. Wonderful machines, pure driving pleasure, great community. Luckiest Person at the Vintage 2021

The attached wiring diagram for special equipment was included on the Mobile Tradition Service Manual CD. I did not find this particular diagram in Steve K's April 2016 Service Repair Manual in the Technical Articles / History and Reference tab of FAQ, or in the print version from FaxonAutoLit.com . I carry the Prospero Garage full-color diagram in my trunk since it is easier to understand, but the wiring diagrams in the BMW manuals have more information, and sometimes even a cable list. The key to this PDF diagram is in the bookmarks tab of the PDF (You need to download and open the file in Adobe, not your browser.). It will show how BMW might have hooked up driving lights, front and rear foglights, and even your trailer lights. 61pe0024.pdf

For what it's worth, the attached wiring diagram for special equipment was included on the Mobile Tradition Service Manual DVD. I did not find this particular diagram in Steve K's April 2016 Service Repair Manual in the Technical Articles / History and Reference tab of FAQ, or in the print version from FaxonAutoLit.com . The key to this PDF diagram is in the bookmarks tab of the PDF (when you open the PDF in Adobe, it is in the bookmarks tab under “Survey.”), and it will show how BMW might have hooked up driving lights, front and rear foglights, and even trailer lights. It includes wire colors and sizes, and there is also plug #5 for the headlight washer. Personally, the reasoned approach to foglight wiring that Les suggests above makes more sense. John 61pe0024.pdf

Very good suggestion! First car (50K) had no AC, while second (10K) does. Two large slots where the AC belt comes in and exits. Bottom line remains, I need to check more often (or get rid of the AC). Thanks. John

Thank you to @dlacey, @AceAndrew and @calw for your advice. I have broken two (OEM) fuel injection belts on my cars over the years, the first at 50K miles (30 months) and the second at 10K miles (90 months). On this basis, I guess the expected belt life is a mix of “wear out” and “age out,” and the failures are a result of operator error in my not checking more frequently. I’ll have to modify my maintenance plans accordingly. It is nice to know that these are standard industrial belts just in case our normal suppliers dry up. In any case, Walloth and Nesch have always provided me quality parts, and I will continue to keep them on my preferred supplier list.

Bottom line up front, Walloth & Nesch has always done right by me, and I have never had an issue with items I bought from them. I just wanted to ask if anyone has any experience with their after-market fuel injection toothed belts. I realize this is not an item to “go cheap” on, but W&N’s A13521259269 is about 24 Euros without VAT, compared to about 50 USD for OEM 13521259268 (replaces 13521259269). I added a couple to another order, partly to spread W&N’s fixed-rate US shipping charge over more items. When they arrived, they “look different” than the OEM belt I bought from BavAuto (RIP) as a spare about six years ago. The W&N belts seem to have the same dimensions (same width and length, same tooth pitch, etc.), but they are more transparent than the gray-brown OEM belts. They are made in Ireland, not Germany (or China). I’d had a couple of experiences this year with old rubber (mostly brake hoses), so I decided to install the newer W&N belt to replace the (used) emergency repair belt that Ben Thongsai had to use for my 2021 Vintage repair described in another note. The car seems to like the W&N belt OK so far. Pictures of the W&N belt and OEM are below, as well as a picture of the W&N belt installed. I’m just wondering if anyone has experiences that would suggest I should watch the aftermarket belt more closely. Thanks. John

If Scott Sturdy doesn’t offer such an award, he should initiate one for me. This morning I got off the Interstate just north of Asheville for a brisk and enjoyable ride along the French Broad River. I was feeling pretty good about the ride when about five miles from Hot Springs I broke the fiber-reinforced toothed nylon belt that spins my 1974 2002tii Kugelfisher fuel injection pump. I knew exactly what had happened because I got the same sinking feeling I had forty-seven years ago when the same thing happened on the Autobahn near Heilbronn. Tach goes to zero. All the idiot lights go on. Turn the key and the motor spins, but NOTHING happens. A Good Samaritan helped me push the car into a gravel lot, but he didn’t know much about tii engines. I confirmed that I had an emergency FI belt in the trunk, based on past experience and the advice here on 2002FAQ. I got the hood up and enough bolts out of the top plastic cover to confirm that there was no belt there. Wandering around with the hood up, a 10mm wrench and a replacement belt in one hand, a cell phone in the other, and a dumfuddled look on my face, I must have looked pathetic. Out of the sky dropped three gifts in the form of a red BMW carrying Phil Marx (Charlottesville), who was chauffeuring Ben Thongsai and his friend Owen from Chicago. Time moves slowly when you are in a panic. I initially estimated 30-40 minutes, but I now understand that Ben maintains that it was no more than twenty. In any case, Ben had me back up-and-running in very short order. This included Ben’s counseling me that my emergency belt was in fact USED, and I should not trust it any longer than I really had to. I got to enjoy the cars, the fellowship and the food in Hot Springs feeling very blessed. I left a little early so as not to tease the Fates, and got home to Pisgah Forest without incident, but not without angst. I have a lot to be thankful for today. First, thanks to Scott Sturdy for all the headstands he has done over the past 18 months to make this Vintage a reality. And especially thanks to Ben and Owen and Phil for pulling my butt out of the fire without so much as a first-degree burn. We have a great community, I really appreciate all of you. John

Registrations for 2020 were apparently transferred to the new event in 2021. Scott Sturdy sent a note last week to those registered offering an alternate hotel since the host Clarion at the Asheville airport is booked.

I got to see an R18 last week at the Boxer2Valve.com shop in North Carolina. It is beautiful and immediately catches your eye. For those of us who are more accustomed to an R75 or an R90, it is also huge. As Slavs suggests, I bet it would gobble up the Interstate.

Got a chance to try out the new Tune Box today, and it works great! I was (pleasantly) surprised to figure out that the Box's ignition toggle switch also turns on the electric fuel pump for my tii, so it's completely remote control. It also immediately confirmed my suspicions about low voltage at idle. A great device! Thanks for making these for us, Pat!

I had a similar experience to yours, described in my post below. On that basis, I would guess that yours is a 1976 steering wheel. The February 13 post by ''76mintgrün'02 in the thread below has many pictures of the pieces making up his '76 center pad that may be helpful. John

Pat, Please sign me up as well, and let us know how to pay. John

Pat, Please keep me on your list for the next production run. Thanks. John

I went to Tractor Supply (though Lowe's would work) looking for something rubber and about the right thickness. I settled on a rubber flex joint intended to splice sections of plastic pipe. The large hose clamps are a nice extra. I then cut the rubber into strips to wrap around the fuel pump, and the thickness was a close match. Anything rubber with about the right thickness that can be cut into strips should work.

I believe the whole service manual, including wiring diagrams is on this forum at the link below.

My post of June 16, 2019 above describes how I got my 74 2002 to work with LED front turn / marker bulbs, and LED arrays in the rear, using an electronic flasher relay. My fix was essentially the same as 02HobieDave’s 2009 solution except I used a four-contact electronic flasher relay. After using the fix for a little more than a year, I can report that it still works fine most of the time. Bottom line is that I think the electronic flasher relay may be sensitive to system / battery voltage. When I am rolling down the road with RPM up, headlights and running lights on, defroster fan going, etc., the turn flashers work fine. But that is not when you usually signal a turn. When I slow down normally for a turn with all those loads on the system, the flasher dash indicator can get really slow, and I don’t know for sure if the outside lights are really flashing. Without those other loads, the flashers work fine. My low-tech cigarette-lighter volt meter says that at low RPM with all lights on, the battery voltage can get somewhat below 12V, but returns when RPMs go back up. It hasn’t irritated me enough yet that I want to tear out the under-dash panels and replace the relay to check it out. I think it is kind of like your old incandescent flashlights that kept getting dimmer until the battery was stone cold dead, but your modern LED flashlight will quit working while the batteries still have a fair amount of charge left. I think maybe my flasher relay may be telling me that I may need to replace my five-year-old car battery soon.

I think you are exactly right, Hans! I thought about this right after making the suggestion. The cruder approach was just what I did at the time. A terminal puller should be the correct tool for both removal and re-installation. John

When working on my wiper motor and linkage, I found that I could pop one of the ball joint linkage joints near to the motor pretty easily with a screwdriver. Then the wiper linkage between the two sides kind of folds up skinnier and can come out past the fan cage. The same joint then squeezes back together with a carpenter's clamp afterwards when things have been reinstalled . Hope this is the question you asked.

That is a really tight bend punched in there. At first I thought it was a sleeve pressed in.

Rick, Hope the attached picture is helpful. John

I have never been more grateful to another human being than the day my Army buddy agreed to take ownership of my 1972 TR-6 so I could purchase a used 1972 2002tii 2761282. His Motor Sergeant had promised that he would perform all maintenance on the Triumph (no small feat for that car) since he was embarrassed to have his Lieutenant driving around in a Fiat 850 sedan. It was a good transaction for us both. The Triumph proved to be a chick magnet for him, and the BMW took me places I would have never seen.

If you download your file to your computer or laptop or tablet, and open it with the "real" free Adobe Reader app, the legend is in the Adobe bookmarks / contents window panel. Your (original BMW) wiring diagram file opens that way on my android tablet, and should work for you too. John

Paul's picture is beautiful, and much nicer than my picture of my bracket, which had been weld-repaired at some point in its life. When I was wrestling with a rebuilt starter, I was having fitup problems and traced my bracket. A scan of that tracing is attached. I am also attaching a couple other pictures that I had scrounged from here on FAQ at that time.

As SpaghetTii points out, there are two different brackets for supporting the cantilevered end of the starter. The 2002 and 2002A use Part #24 (12 41 1 257 807) to support the starter end off the block. The 2002tii uses Part #4 (12 41 1 254 942) which also stabilizes the tii throttle body from moving around too much. See the parts catalog page from 2002tii.org below. Thanks to Randy Anderson to pointing out the difference to me at the Vintage 2014, and saving me throttle body problems down the road. As noted, there is apparently a substitute bracket for 2002 and 2002A that is available. For a tii, you’d probably need a good used (or repaired) one.