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About BarrettN

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  1. Good to know that the housing isn't the most common failure, I'd assumed that corrosion was the WURs biggest enemy, evidently not. The wax element, I can see where that could be voodoo, you'd need to have a wax with the same coefficient of heat and expansion to rebuild one of those - and where the heck are you going to find that information?
  2. Swiss 2002Tii was nice enough to take a ton of measurements and pictures from a WUR for me - my plan is to draw up a 3D model so a replacement housing could be fabricated. If anyone has a housing or WUR parts whose condition makes them unusable for rebuilding, I'd be interested in them to dissect to get the inner dimensions from.
  3. I think it is #92 in the attached pic - it is metal To be clear, I was suggesting fabricating a replacement for the plastic cup - but UHMW polyethylene is tough enough that if the metal cup is worn I bet i could just make a one piece replacement for the original metal-plastic combination.
  4. One thing I have on my list of things to do is to get a cup and then machine a version of it made out of UHMW Polyethylene - I think a cup made from that would possibly outlast most cars. If anyone is interested in one, PM me and if there's a lot of interest I can bump up the priority of that project.
  5. There's a set of Bilstein HD struts being sold I can probably pick up for a decent price. My concern is that they're old (don't know exactly how old, but they have the old P30-0 23 numbering and are visibly old). Does anyone have any experience of how well unused struts age? Thanks, Barrett
  6. Reportedly at one time through RockAuto (who was supposedly working with Cardone) you could get them to rebuild a tii pump - but I emailed RockAuto's support people and they told me that they no longer do that.
  7. Wow, your car looks great - hard to beat a California car for a clean body. When you say the engine is "blown" - are we talking low\no compression or what? Maybe best to hold those answers until I get you added to the WhatApp chat where more people can respond - there's one guy in the group (Rudy) that has 6-7 02s (and 7 e30 M3s, and more) so there's a wealth of knowledge there. WhatsApp works off of phone numbers, send me your for me to be able to get you added. I need to do brakes on mine as well - I think I'm going to go for Ireland Engineering's stainless steel lines, $90 for the set and they're DOT approved. You might want to check with Terry Sather in Austin for your rebuild, he's the 02 whisperer closest to us.
  8. Hi Bruce - Congratulations on finding your 02! I about have finished completely dismembering my parts car. As it turns out, while the engine is a '69 block when looking at it closer it turned out to have a '74 e12 head on it, and even better, the distributor was actually the right one for my '74 tii. I'm in the process of mothballing the engine, hopefully I don't need it any time soon, but my plans are to hold on to it. I do have belt trim pieces but not a full set. Any time you're up in the NW Houston area you're more than welcome to stop by, it would be nice to meet. There's a WhatsApp group of Houston 02 owners - let me know if you'd like to be a part of it and I'll ask the owner of the group to add you. Here's a picture of my "keeper". Barrett
  9. OK, so I pulled the head from my parts car and the coolant passages are really a crusty mess. Any suggestions on the best way to clean it out? I don't have any immediate plans for using it, so I'll just be mothballing it from here. I'm sure the block is just as crusty - hot tank it? Barrett
  10. I do have some things that I won't be needing - anything in particular that you're looking for?
  11. Oh no, the secret of my supply for wire I've been giving away for free is out! How will I ever survive ? 1 inch = 2.54 cm - @ 10 Ohms/ cm you're looking at over 25.4 Ohms per inch. And a #32 Nichrome 60 is 10.6 ohms per foot, not cm. I think Mike Self said that the wire should be about 6 Ohms / inch, and measurements have shown that value gives a total resistance of ~75 Ohms on the standard length sender. The wire I've been giving away to people is from Jacobs, but it's the Nichrome 60 #40 gauge that is 70.2 Ohm / foot. I just didn't see the sense in everyone buying a 10' spool for $3.50 and having leftover wire when they sell a 100' spool for $6. (And I enjoy the good karma points I get giving it away ). The turbo and other length sending units use a different resistance/distance wire to keep the total resistance of the sender about the same - the turbo sending unit was reported to have a resistance of 42.5 in a 304 mm length (11.96 inches) - which makes me think they probably just used a #38 wire, it's 42.2 ohms/foot. fjord-tii, I hope I'm not stepping on any toes with you, I wasn't able to find your write-up - please let me know if I'm wrong as I've repeated what I found rebuilding my sending unit to multiple people. Here's what I (and others who contributed to the thread) found in rebuilding mine -
  12. The paint in my wheel well has peeled off the schutz in some places. Is there anything special that should be done as far a prep work to make the color hold up over the schutz?
  13. The screen on the bottom is still available. I've sent Newfie2002 my address for him to send me a SASE and I'll send him some wire.
  14. Looking at realoem and reading here I haven't ever come across how the banjo bolt (and the rear pressure valve on the fuel return) seal. Then again, my experience with banjo bolts is minimal. I'm correct that there's no crush washer or anything on either of those fittings, right? What seals them, do I need to do anything for them to seal properly when I reinstall them? I just got the new (to me) tank for my tii and will now go through the fuel system (been busy dismembering my parts car as well) and was too lazy to rig up a temporary fuel supply so that once clean I can verify the fuel pressure and delivery volume. Barrett
  15. OK, I'm far from the expert on Recaro seat rails - my car's seats sit kind of funny, they tilt back a bit more than seems normal. I'm wondering if maybe it's the seat rails. My sample size of seat rails is pretty small - can anyone tell me what these rails are from, and\or if they have also noticed the tilt towards the back with them? I probably can shim these and get them right. Eventually I might replace them as I'm tall - I don't plan on tracking the car, but having a little extra headroom for a helmet would be a nice extra if there are any rails that drop the seat down. Barrett

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