BarrettN

Maybe give the tank a fogging inside with Sta-bil storage oil? Walmart carries it.

I have a set of armrests, but the panels the self are shot. Send me a pm if you're interested in just armrests. Also, on one of the Facebook forums I saw a set of black rear seat covers that looked in really good shape. I don't remember which of the groups it was or how much they were asking.

I'd thought about that - my only reservation is that it's easier to silver solder brass.

I have access to a CNC lathe, I was thinking there are a lot of people where their kugelfischer is completely missing the filter and wouldn't have rings to send in. That, plus if the mesh is gone the rings are probably corroded some as well, easier to work with new pieces. Once set up it's the incremental work to make a big batch of rings is minimal, just have to swap in more stock. My thought is to use a ceramic tube the right diameter to assemble the parts inside, and hit it with a torch to solder the assembly. Slide in the first ring with silver solder inside the lip, wrap a piece of 100 micron mesh cut to size over a rod of the right diameter, paint it with silver solder along the joint, slide the rod with the mesh into the tube to seat in ring #1, remove rod and then cap it off with ring #2. Or maybe assemble it all around a ceramic rod if the mesh springiness isn't an issue with the mesh cylinder seam lying flat. Either way, then hit it with the torch. The mesh has some spring to it, it may be a problem if it's stiff or springy enough that it won't hold a round shape, but from what I've seen, if it's stiff enough to be an issue, I should be able to work a curve into the mesh that it'll hold. I'm sure I'll have to play with the amount of solder, time and temp of the torch, but once I have it dialed it is should be reasonably repeatable. The right gauge spring steel wire and a jig should make pumping out some clips possible as well - but I'll cross that bridge later. Anyone with a rotted out one with a set of digital calipers - can you measure the inside diameter of the inner edge of the end ring? I'm curious to know if the ring is stepped inside or a constant diameter. I only have good filters, the mesh prevents me from getting a good look at the inside. (This should tell you my level of obsession with NLA parts - my tii has a good filter, have a NOS spare complete banjo with filter, and two whole spare kugelfischers I could also steal one from - I don't need a filter ).

Looking at it under a lighted Leica stereoscopic microscope I've estimated it at 100 micron - once the samples arrive I'll compare and adjust if needed.

I've got 100 micron brass mesh ordered on it's way, from the response here it looks like this is something much needed. Once I get the mesh I'll have to play around with how to best fabricate it, but I don't foresee anything insurmountable. I tend to get distracted by whatever grabs my attention, so feel free to IM me nagging me "hey, how's it going with those filters" to keep me on track 🙂.

So you're saying when I found my 74 tii with little\no rust for $2700 I shouldn't have bought it and let someone with more money buy it?

I've been thinking about trying my hand at making some - how many people would be interested?

That's an excellent suggestion and exactly the sort of thing I know I was missing - that sounds like the way to do it right! That together with some dessicant packages should keep it in good shape.

I picked up a used spare master cylinder and brake booster. Any suggestions on how to best mothballs them? Knowing brake fluid is hydroscopic leads me to at the least empty it out (it was freshly pulled, still dribbling fluid when I got it). I'm thinkingthat at the least I need to find a set of plugs that'll fit the holes (how many have I thrown away - and don't have any now). Any ideas on what to do with the booster? Any storage tips to other specific parts, or good general tricks? (I have an entire car I parted out, right now there's little that I don't have a spare of for my tii). Barrett

They're in an online auction, they're going cheap, but no sense in buying them if they're the "evil" variety.

These have a letter code AF -

Anyone familiar with the Ferodo FDB-34 pad material? I'm not finding references to it on the web, I suspect it's an older nomenclature that might not have made it to the web. As much as anything I'm curious to know if these are a "track day only, squeal like a stuck pig, evil corrosive dust producing" pads or hopefully "a streetable pad with a nice grey powder that doesn't show up on rims that never squeal and perform better than stock" (with a smoky hint of oak and cherry) - one can dream, right? Barrett

Opps - Somehow my previous post lost all my carefully crafted prose, leaving only the picture of my fuel tank. Apparently the PO of my car didn't do a good enough job of removing the rust before using what looks like the Eastwood tank sealant - the result being the atrocious mix of rust and bubble gum seen in the picture. So, make sure you get out ALL the rust before doing anything more. Plenty of good thread here on rusty gas tanks, I bought a replacement tank in decent shape. Now there are repro tanks being made, and the word is that even tii tanks are in the cards later. If you have a tii tank that's shot and can't wait for the new ones or find a decent used one, Gas Tank Renu would be my other choice - they use steel media to blast the interior, fix any holes, and then bake a pvc liner inside the tank - lifetime warranty, but not cheap. @JMMcR75 "I plan on replacing the original pump wiring harness back to its connection point in the trunk by the tank, making it easier to include an inertia switch in the wiring to turn off fuel supply in case of accident." - Consider going to a heavier gauge wire. I'm going to be doing this myself, I've looking for some 10 gauge GXL green w white stripe wire myself, if I can find it in lengths under 100'. There's a connector (or at least there is on a '74) in the trunk where I'm planning on installing my inertia switch - the Ford units can be picked up off eBay for a reasonable price. I'm planning on making a pigtail so that it plugs right into the harness. O'Reilly sells Gates Barricade fuel line in bulk, it's abrasion resistant and rated 225 psi. 5/16" is 7.9375 mm - close enough for me.