BarrettN

Given 304mm is just shy of 12 inches, your measurement of 42. 5 ohms for the resistance tells us that BMW used a different resistance wire in the longer turbo sending unit versus the 70 ohm reported by Mike for a "standard' length unit. As the contact of the float doesn't reach all the way to the bottom of the wire, I'm betting that value of 85 ohm for the doubled length works out to something a bit less in the real world. All that makes sense, and tells us what way BMW compensated for the longer sensor - they used a lower resistance wire to give the same total resistance despite the longer length. That also makes sense with the fact that there are different sendors, that way the gauge for the cluster is the same for any model. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Has anyone made up a 3D model of a trapezoid mirror frame so that we can print them out? If not, does someone have an old one that's damaged where I'd still be able to measure all the pertinente dimensions from it? Maybe one with part of the outer lip is missing along part of the length where I'd still be able to measure the lengths and shapes of the side, and hopefully with a section where it's intact so I can measure the profile. We have a new 3D printer at work that I need to put to work! Barrett

I've hunted high and low and can't find a part number for the cover plate for a Getrag 240 5 speed. Mine's from an e21, not an e30, in case that makes any difference, though I suspect it doesn't. Item #1 in the image below: Thanks, Barrett

Thanks for the reply Toby - it's worth knowing that the weld along the bottom isn't easy to get at, now I don't feel like such a hack chopping the inner rails. Good practice - after this, pull the engine to mothball it, reinforce & refurbish this sub-frame for an easy swap onto my car, and practice cutting off the frame rails. The joys of cheap Harbor Freight cut-off wheels! Barrett

I'd suggest two things - measure the distance of the wire run between the terminals to where the contacts on the float would be in the bottom-most position. Twice that distance in inches times 6 should be a rough value for the resistance if BMW used the same wire. To determine if they did, disconnect the leads from the gauge at the sending unit and connect a variable resistor (you'll probably want to use something with a range like 0-150 Ohms) between them and adjust it to move the gauge full scale. I suspect that the value for full will be zero ohms or close to it - what you'll really care about is the value for empty. Adjust the resistor so the gauge reads empty, then measure the resistance of the adjustable resistor. Hopefully it's close to the value based on 6 ohm/inch and BMW just changed the gauge values to compensate for the longer sender. If the two numbers don't match you'll have to calculate what resistance\inch wire you need, and hopefully you can find the value you need. As what I'd suggest as a last resort you could hack the gauge electrical circuit to make it go full scale with 6 ohm\inch wire.

I've experienced the 4x4 2002 comments as well - I found that my car had rear springs in the front. Evidently they're not that different and could get switched if someone wasn't paying attention. On top of that my rear springs are some stock factory heavy duty towing springs - what the previous owner intended with this is beyond me. I've bought some IE stage 1 springs (the car had Bilstein HDs on it when I got it) that I'll be putting on it once I get other things sorted out first.

I'm using my parts car as a practice dummy to learn how everything goes together so that if or when I need to do something I already have an idea of how things go together. I'm 95% certain that the nose is past being salvageable, but why not learn how it comes off - and it'll make pulling the engine a lot easier. As everything is so rusty I'm not really concerned about saving the shock towers, so I just cut behind the weld between the nose and the inner fender. (I know that if I was salvaging it I should drill out the spot welds). What I'm not seeing is where else it's attached and how to get to it. I assume that there's a way to remove the nose without just lopping off the end of the frame rails, but I'm not seeing how to get in there. BTW, it's a 76 - I assume all 74 and later models are the same, right? Can anyone who's done it (especially if you can point me to pics) help me understand how it all comes apart? Someone had posted (and I can't find the thread) asking about essentially what would be like a butcher's diagram on how to break down a shell of beef - since I can't find the thread, anyone have it marked & can point me to it? I'll be doing the trunk section next - it actually has salvageable part there, so I started my practice on the front. Barrett

Hi - I need a front hood emblem for my 74 - I know I can buy one new from a dealer, I'd like a period part in good or better condition - metal with raised letters is what it would have come with, right? I have a parts car I'm dismembering, I'll entertain trades for something you might need. Please reply with a picture and what you're asking for it. Shipping will be to 77379. Thanks, Barrett

I'm scrapping out a sun-roof car, mines not. I'll check on them and see what kind of shape they are in over the weekend.

Anyone done up a 3D model of these gaskets? At my work they just opened a "maker lab" with all kinds of cool toys, I'm thinking that printing or machining a mold for these might be a fun project. Can't let this brand new Haas cnc mill or the $150k 3D printer just sit idle!

I have a getrag 240 and will be using a318i e30 driveshaft. It means relocating the center support bearing brackets, but the splined shaft means no cutting, rebalancing etc. Is the 245 that much longer than the 240 to preclude using the e30 driveshaft? Or is it the non-stock appearance of the larger diameter driveshaft and relocated center bearing that keeps people from using it?

I'd suggest getting a potentiometer or an adjustable resistor and see what resistance ranges are required to get the gauge needle to move full scale. Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

Agreed - but mine is in good enough shape that it'll be quite a while before the amount of work required to do a repaint right could be justified. But yes, when that day comes, it'll go back to granatrot. In the meantime I have plenty of things to do.

My tii was originally Granatrot too - now its Verona, I have to say I wish it hadn't been changed.