BarrettN

So far I haven't come across one - does anyone know of an electrical diagrams that lays out the physical location of the devices and connectors? Thanks, Barrett

I've been looking for one for a while - and on realoem it doesn't show up on the transmission drawing, so I've not had any luck finding even a part number, much less the actual part. I can't tell if it interchanges with any of the getrag transmissions either. If you come across any of this info, or even better, a source that has more than one, would you please let me know? Thanks, Barrett

If no one else has ended up buying a 50 or 100 bag of the o-ring for the kugelfischer pressure relief valve I'll bite the bullet and do it - but if someone already has a big bag of them, could I get a couple from you? Barrett

When removing the tube be careful not to rotate it, you can break the resistance wires that way. At the very least, hold the sender upside down as you disassemble it. The float settles down over the crossbar on the bottom of the float rod, twisting the tube with the float at the bottom turns the float. I did a write up on rebuilding sending units, there are some close up pictures in the write up that display this well.

You might want to look at the uship.com website - you post what you want shipped and from where to where, and shippers reply with quotes. I also found that Fastenal had really good rates. Where I ran into problems was with getting the item crated, and in the case of Fastenal, to their freight depot as they don't pick up.

PM sent

I have a tii tank that someone attempted to repair using what I think was the Eastwood tank sealer, but didn't get all the rust out - the result being a disgusting rust and bubble gum mix. Tank Renu will bake, cut access holes, steel shot peen the inside, patch the tank and reseal the access holes. Then they bake a PVC liner in it. I've not used them as I bought a new tank, but if I had no other option I'd give them a shot.

With what you've already done it's clear that you have the skills needed if you need to replace the wire inside the sending unit. PM me if you need some of the wire, I'm the guy who bought the big spool. (free)

That is one of my biggest concerns - some of the automatic trans flushing equipment out there now uses a lower pressure to "let sleeping dogs lie". It sounds like you're recommending using an oil flush product - something I have no experience with. Are there any typical ones to consider? I've usually considered most oil additives as snake oil, but for an engine that has sat I think this may be a specialized application where something targeted for this is of worth.

The PO stored the car with some gas in tank, and looks to have had some rust prior to that as it looks like they used the Eastwood tank sealant on it. It doesn't look like they did a good enough job getting rid of the rust prior to coating it, the result today being a disgusting mix of chewing gum and rust. I've bought a new tank for it, have all new filters (except the NLA k-fischer mesh filter) and plan on flushing the lines. My parts car has donated an old thermostat that I've knocked the guts out of so that coolant will flow through it even when cold. I'm planning on making a garden hose adapter for the block drain port. Nynick - is there a better way to do the back flush than what I have planned?

Hello all! I'm finally about done futzing around with dismembering the parts car I bought which have I allowed to distract me from my primary mission - getting the 74 tii I bought going. From the looks of things, it's been about 10 years since it was driven last. Is it worth considering deviating from the standard recommended fluids for the first fluid changes? I'm wondering if there are some fluids that you might not want to run every day but that might help with clearing out any deposits, varnish, etc. that are a result of it having been not run for so long. I'm not opposed to running something with a short service life if it'll provide a marked benefit for an engine that has been idle. I'd think a coolant system flush would be a good idea, anyone have any favorite chemicals for doing that? I've read here where it was recommended putting ATF into a manual gearbox, driving it gently for ~100 miles, and then draining it and filling it with MTL or whatever - supposedly that "got the gunk out". Worth considering? For the differential I'm planning on just popping off the diff cover, hosing it down with brake cleaner, then seal it back up and refill it, so I'd think that doing that will address it. Maybe I should drop the engine oil pan and do the same? I'm replacing the flexible brake lines, planning on using ATE blue fluid when I flush them. I may put off rebuilding the brake master, slave, calipers and cylinders for a little while. I'll feel a lot better once that has all been run through, but to start I want to just get it moving under it's own power so that I can do the inspection and registration. All comments welcome - I already know there are plenty of people here that know a lot more than me, if any of this is stupid please don't be shy in telling me! Barrett

Knowing that part numbers get superseded and such, while I have dug through part numbers on realoem, it's not clear to me if euro turn signal light between 1602,1802 & 2002 will interchange. I suspect that possibly someone here with more experience knows this right off the top of their head - anyone know? Thanks, Barrett