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BarrettN

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Everything posted by BarrettN

  1. @tjones02 has a Getrag in his 1600-2, you may want to check with him, he mentions the mounting ears difference on the '84 and it's lack of a speedometer drive - and Mike's 90mm length difference, if I'm not mistaken, is for that for the Getrag 245. I'm not sure how the 1600-2 driveshaft (and when the change-over from the earlier driveshaft happened in the 1600-2) compares with the 2002, but in a 2002 with the 240 you can use the '84 driveshaft with no modifications if you relocate the center shaft bearing mount point. You can pull that off because of the splined slip joint in the '84 driveshaft - the 240 is short enough that it works, the 245 is too long, so you can't use the e30 4 cylinder driveshaft with the 245.
  2. Weigh it, reference the current price of gold, and multiply by 1.5....... 🙂
  3. Aardvarc racing carries a good selection of seat parts. https://www.2002parts.com/bmw/recaro-seat-parts.html
  4. Given you sons background maybe he's the person to look into who it was that was modifying kugelfischer pumps to use a stepper motor in place of the cone to control the injection. I can't seem to recall right now other than I think they were UK based. If you're really committed to playing with a hotter engine while keeping the mechanical injection that could be fun to explore.
  5. Contact eBay seller vintage-benzine-garage, you'll want a partial PL04 kit - he'll sell you just the gaskets that you need.
  6. You'll let us know by pm if we did/didn't make the lucky 7?
  7. I found these M8x1. 25x60 from Amazon - I haven't bought them yet, I want to rebuild my tii calipers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RN42LD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_cF4ZFbX3FGP9A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I haven't found bolts with a Ribe head. When you ask about a "star" head, do you want Torx, Ribe, hex, or something else?
  8. I'm hoping to join the "just drove my 74tii for the first time" club sometime this month.
  9. Thanks to everyone who brought up not using stainless wire - galvanized and chromed metals can also be added ro to that list. I was quite remiss in not mentioning this - using them results in the formation of hexavalent chromium, which is some really nasty stuff - it's what the movie Erin Brochovich was about.
  10. I think the next car I do is going to involve an aboveground pool, a welder, and some railroad spikes, and I'll just let electrolytic rust removal gnaw away at the whole thing. My current 5 gallon bucket setup works great (shown here with a hand crank ice cream mechanism), but I'm thinking bigger, I'd recommend a rectangular tote to start. I've been using it on car parts, but happened to grab the ice cream piece to show this off to the local Houston 02 owners in our WhatsApp group. It gets down into pits, and doesn't remove anything except the rust - and if you leave it too long, it just stops and doesn't do anything more. About the only thing is that the part will flash rust if nothing is done to stop it once it's cleaned. I have a gas tank planned for this weekend, I'll follow up with posts of it. If you're interested, Google\YouTube "electrolytic rust removal" and you'll find tons of info. An old desktop pc power supply with a 10 Ohm 20W resistor connected to it can be used as a cheap source for a power supply if you don't have an old battery charger - you only need 2-3 amps @12 volts. This was after 3 hours IIRC - test.mp4
  11. I'd committed early on in this thread on wanting on, just chiming it to state that prepayment isn't an issue for me and that I'm still interested in one.
  12. Amen to the recommendation on that light, I really like mine.
  13. Ok, so I'm replacing the fuel pump in my 74 tii as part of my "get it back on the road" overhaul, as I hasn't run in about 10 years. I'm following the write up from my2002tii.com/tii-fuel-pump_how-to.html, where it's suggested to use some garden hose split lengthwise to shim between the new pump and the bracket. The difference in diameter is about 7mm - seems a bit large for the suggested garden hose shim. Has anyone come up with a better way to securely mount the 5 series pump into a tii bracket? (and if I'm not mistaken, it could just be mounted without the surge canister - but I like to try to keep things looking somewhat like they were). Barrett
  14. Is this a replacement for 21510670070 "gasket ring", #4 in the picture below?
  15. Once you've got it to where you need to use an Allen key again, know that Facom tools makes Allen wrenches that are very exactly sized with an ever so slight dish to the face of them which makes them a tiny bit less likely to round out the screw in high torque situations. Of course, make sure the Allen hole in the screw is free of rust (q-tip with phosphoric acid, then pack with baking soda and flush with water to neutralize) and any other debris to ensure the but gets a good grip. And soak the threads with penetrating oil.
  16. Thanks everyone for their replies. Some time in my newly assembled electrolytic rust removing tank (fantastic - should be required with 02 ownership) cleaned the rust off and while cleaning it up I could see a bend mark on the bottom where it it was more obvious that this was something done on a production line, not by someone tweaking it with a pair of vice-grips. Evidently mine is a replacement like what jgerock has. Barrett
  17. I'm pretty sure that if this exists here on the FAQ I'd have found it - maybe there's a reason why it doesn't that hasn't occurred to me. Or maybe it's just something that could be started? I'm cleaning up under the hood, and I find myself repeatedly asking myself - I wonder if these bolts were painted body color from the factory, what the finish on the throttle linkage was originally (I've seen LOTS of parts yellow cadmium plated that really make me wonder if they were that way to start). It's not that I have any illusions of having a car for Amelia Island - but if I'm going to refinish something, why not do it the way it was originally? Are there any really well documented cars that are original that can be used as reference? Or does anyone have any suggestions as to a format where this information could be archived in a logical fashion here? Since that doesn't exist yet (AFAIK) any input on the finish for the "V" and "I" brackets that hold up the tii intake plenum? (I'm betting it's not the fire engine red the used spare parts came as. How about throttle linkage and the bracket it swivels on that bolts to the block? Barrett
  18. OK, so I'm cleaning up the throttle linkage on a new to me '74 tii. Should the plate of the intermediate shaft be flat? This is the part I'm asking about: And this is what mine looks like (you might have to open the pic full sized to see the bend better - the edge with downward facing pivot ball not in line with the shaft is bent down) : Thanks! Barrett
  19. I know I've heard stories of damaged hoods this way - if the bearing lets go, what keeps the shock center shaft, now without any load on it, from un compressing to where when the car jounces it hits the hood? - not wanting to argue or disagree with anyone, your answer that it can't damage is the easiest. I just need to understand the possible failure mechanism to be sure it's addressed.
  20. I'll be shipping a car I'm buying - it has a front strut bearing that's ready to fail at any minute. Anyone have a clever way to secure the car so that if it cuts lose the strut doesn't damage the hood? Taking off the hood isn't really in the cards I don't think, nor it just fixing it prior to shipping. Barrett
  21. Anyone in Phoenix have a set of 4 wheels cheap in good enough shape to move a car on? For an 02, so 4x100 lug pattern with the right offset - I don't care what diameter, as long as they fit on & under the car, and the tires are OK. And cheap
  22. This was very much me essentially knocking on his door asking him if he'd be interested in selling, so the fact he wasn't ready with title in hand isn't a red flag to me.
  23. Well,I realize now I should have asked some of these questions a couple of days ago before I looked at a 02 while traveling out of state - and verbally agreed to buy it. The owner is selling the car along with some parts as a package deal, 3 additional engines and some other parts - seats, etc. The car represents the major part of the value, but engine and other the parts do have some value. The seller needs to get a duplicate title from the state where he used to live as he can't find the title (he's moved twice and had help packing). I agreed to send a refundable deposit while we work out all the details (my brother and I are probably going to rent a box truck and haul everything back ourselves). I trust the guy, and don't have any misgivings, but I'd hate to have the deal fall apart for some reason, and even more, if that happened, have trouble getting my deposit back. Any advice on how to handle this from those out there with more experience with this than me? I don't want to insult the guy with a lot of legalese if possible, but I don't know how to do that and protect myself. I don't know enough how escrow services work to know if that would be appropriate, how expensive they are, or if they'd even do it for the money involved. The dollar amounts I'm talking about while probably not huge to some other people, are big enough for me that I'd rather not end up holding the short end of the stick. Thanks for your help Barrett
  24. Are there any vintage driving/spot/fog lights that are particularly desirable? Similar to like Marchal Amplilux for headlights. I've found a little website where vintage lights go up on a fairly regular basis, but haven't done the research yet to know what's really good.
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