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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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44 minutes ago, tarheelbob said:

 Do you have the files to share for the 3D printing, or a link pointing me in the right direction? My son in Raleigh would just love to make a few of those for his dear old Dad with the rusty 1976 2002. It's the least he could do, right?

 

Here you go:  

 

 

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Karl B.

1974 2002tii Malaga ("Conrad") -->> Conrad's Restoration Blog

2003 330i ZHP 6-spd

2011 328i xDrive

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My alternator was angled forward so I replaced my alternator bushings (removed the black goo and replaced with urethane). Seemed to help some, but it still looks a little tweaked. Maybe I’ve just been looking at it too long. 
IMG_0242.thumb.jpeg.4d0d0efae2a7c86ebce3ca44ac0c7ded.jpeg


The only annoying part of the job was finding a new belt to fit. For some reason my car didn’t take the standard 875mm belt and I had to find one at the auto store using trial and error, 35” ended up doing the trick.  My main pulley has 2 belt paths and  looks to be different than the single pulley piece  that’s on my parts car.  Maybe for AC?  Anyone seen this before?  RealOEM didn’t list a different belt for my car, so I’m assuming something was swapped before my ownership. IMG_0172.thumb.jpeg.ef3d35c6369d472e37b073e63b9c5efa.jpeg

 

Also replaced a weak battery. Size 96R fits beautifully and has a little more cca and reserve than the average 26R

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6 hours ago, tarheelbob said:

Do you have the files to share for the 3D printing, or a link pointing me in the right direction? My son in Raleigh would just love to make a few of those for his dear old Dad with the rusty 1976 2002. It's the least he could do, right?

And I would cheerfully pay him to make a couple for my '76 as well!

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43 minutes ago, HobieDog said:

My alternator was angled forward so I replaced my alternator bushings (removed the black goo and replaced with urethane). Seemed to help some, but it still looks a little tweaked. Maybe I’ve just been looking at it too long. 

IMG_0242.thumb.jpeg.4d0d0efae2a7c86ebce3ca44ac0c7ded.jpeg

 

It might be that crooked sticker that makes it look tweaked.

 

You can lay a straight edge on top of the pulleys to make sure they're aligned.  I used a little piece of wood to check mine.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.314259b2cac872309af46778505cc447.jpeg

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49 minutes ago, HobieDog said:

My alternator was angled forward so I replaced my alternator bushings (removed the black goo and replaced with urethane). Seemed to help some, but it still looks a little tweaked. Maybe I’ve just been looking at it too long. 
IMG_0242.thumb.jpeg.4d0d0efae2a7c86ebce3ca44ac0c7ded.jpeg


The only annoying part of the job was finding a new belt to fit. For some reason my car didn’t take the standard 875mm belt and I had to find one at the auto store using trial and error, 35” ended up doing the trick.  My main pulley has 2 belt paths and  looks to be different than the single pulley piece  that’s on my parts car.  Maybe for AC?  Anyone seen this before?  RealOEM didn’t list a different belt for my car, so I’m assuming something was swapped before my ownership. IMG_0172.thumb.jpeg.ef3d35c6369d472e37b073e63b9c5efa.jpeg

 

Also replaced a weak battery. Size 96R fits beautifully and has a little more cca and reserve than the average 26R

I like to use a laser level for precise belt alignment.

 

Yep, AC crankshaft pulley.

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4 hours ago, HobieDog said:

Seemed to help some, but it still looks a little tweaked

I replaced my bushings with the orange urethane from Blunt. Tightened up the angled lean, but the large face of the forward bushing pushed the entire rig back, giving a "doesn't look right" alignment. I shaved the forward bushing face down and added a washer on the rear end of the alternator mount to accommodate what I removed. Now the alt pulley runs true to the water pump/crank.

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Hacker of many things... master of none.

 

Gunther March 19, 1974. Hoffman Motors march 22 1974 NYC

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Today I finished (for the most part) my M10 Rebuild Project.  Only a few fiddly bits to add/do and then get it to my garage for its transplantation procedure.  Details are in the posts within the "M10 Rebuild Project" thread on this site. 

 

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IMG_4591.thumb.jpeg.873b2ae536fa15069717a8c918a714ef.jpeg

 

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On 3/4/2024 at 1:10 AM, MauiBob said:

I found a chrome rear windshield strip in a baggy I KNEW had somewhere from Illuminescence group about 100 years ago.  Try put one of those in, I'd rather have a root canal.  I have the special tool, took an hour looks great!  Now Maybe do the front!

 

 

I hear you!!!

I've been fighting getting the lock strip into my new windshield gasket.  I finally found a tool that made it 'easy'.  I found the tool on Moss and with some WD-40 and warm weather (it's 85 here in Texas), it seemed to install nicely...Seemed to being the operative words!

MOSSMOTORS.COM

Windshield Weatherstrip Beading Tool

 IMG_7712.thumb.JPG.d4f68c738d4a8fe7b4b6e6a69a46c0e0.JPG

(the tool is just 'parked' there while I tried to deal with my problematic corner)

 

I say easy, but I wasn't paying close attention, and after getting back to the starting point, I looked it over and the lock strip had twisted in 3-4 places around the windshield!!!  With no way to twist it back into place, I pulled the strip back out to the first twist and started installing again.  BUT, when I reached the first bottom corner, I noticed that there was some loose rubber hanging off the gasket! 

 IMG_7711.thumb.JPG.2afb735460bf72382768e32f7ce57d4a.JPG

 

I suspect the sharp edge of the lock strip sliced off the strip of rubber :(.  I also noticed that the lower corners seem to be made of a different type of rubber, and wasn't as soft and pliable as the rest of the gasket.

 

So now I have 3 options:

1. Pull the windshield and get another new gasket and go through all that frustration again (not going to happen!)

2. Try and figure a way to hold the lock strip in the corner when there's no rubber to actually hold it there (still scratching my head on how to accomplish that)

3. Find some coax the right size and use it instead of the lock strip - the coax would probably need some silicone or something to hold it in the problem corner.  Back in the mid-70's, that's what I did (sans the silicone).  I need to figure out what size coax would best fit into the gasket.

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S/N 2579886 Inka (Code 022) Birthday 03 Dec 1971 Delivered 13 Dec 1971 to Hoffman Motors 40 DCOE's, 9.5CR, 123 Ignition 

#792890.Smaller.jpg

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You need 2 people to put the lock strip in, even with the tool     Use a hot air gun to heat the plastic up so that it is pliable and then have someone twist the lockstrip which ever way that you need it to go    With it being warm and flexible and someone dealing with the twisting, you can concentrate on getting the d@**n thing in place         If you are worried about a leak, use some sealant around the glass.   I do remember from years ago when the glass guys did windshields, they always used a black sealant that took a long time to clean up but did not get many leaks     Glass guys look at you funny these days when you ask about any sealant.   I just wait until they are gone and seal it myself      Can't remember the proper name for the sealant but not silicone!!

 

Thanks, Rick

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There was a 3M sealant that’s NLA, so now you’re looking for CRL7708. It’s messy, but seals everything up nicely. It doesn’t ever really dry, so no shrinking or cracking. I used a heavy bead in the glass channel of the gasket, installed the gasket on the glass, then the whole thing into the car. Once the glass was installed, I went around the outside with another bead of sealant between body and gasket. Then lots of cleanup where it splooges out. 
 

The lock strip goes in in about 10 minutes with 409 and the tool with the roller on it. Once you get a feel for it, it’s fairly easy. I did complete front and rear glass installs by myself.  It goes a little quicker with a friend, but not required.  Paracord, some suction cup handles, the lock strip tool, and a bottle of 409 is all you need. 

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13 hours ago, Steve76063 said:

I hear you!!!

I've been fighting getting the lock strip into my new windshield gasket.  I finally found a tool that made it 'easy'.  I found the tool on Moss and with some WD-40 and warm weather (it's 85 here in Texas), it seemed to install nicely...Seemed to being the operative words!

 

Is WD-40 rubber safe? I'd avoid any oil based product on rubber. Silicon grease works well.

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avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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Well, today and yesterday...

 

After hanging the wheels, and touching up some surface rust from chips in the wheel wells, I spent a few too many hours with scotch brite pads, magic erasers, various grades of steel wool, trim paint and black dye to brighten up the trim, refinish the 2002 emblem and grille and blacken the gaiters to get her presentable for the driving season.  Next steps will be to accumulate and install a few OE parts as I acquire them although I am leaning to leave some of the period correct mods.

 

Got to enjoy one drive between the deluges.

 

74Gabby020324.jpg

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1974 '02 Golf 'Gabby', few Porsches and leaky British things.

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OK, yesterday.  But after severing Zoauve’s a/c belt during my search for the fugitive vibration (it was the driveshaft out of balance), the final step — after installing the rebalanced ds and the Russ Gezon LSD (very nice!), and pulling the radiator and various front-of-engine parts out to get the new belt in, buttoning it all up and driving for a few weeks to shake it all down — time to pull a vacuum, fill with 134a and test pressures.  Good to have a friend like Carl…IMG_6007.thumb.jpeg.b5705f28672380fa977088fb64f81a00.jpeg

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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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On 3/4/2024 at 6:26 PM, OldRoller said:

I replaced my bushings with the orange urethane from Blunt. Tightened up the angled lean, but the large face of the forward bushing pushed the entire rig back, giving a "doesn't look right" alignment. I shaved the forward bushing face down and added a washer on the rear end of the alternator mount to accommodate what I removed. Now the alt pulley runs true to the water pump/crank.

I just did this too. Odd though as all I read showed the larger faces bushing on back. Front one sits flush. I was just installing them earlier today. 
 

in addition, I also installed the Hella 500 driving lights my son gave me For Xmas. 
Sourced Phillipe’s brackets from the man himself. 
 

image.thumb.jpeg.6c260643524ade07892649f97d1ba79a.jpeg

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2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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