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tarheelbob

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  1. tarheelbob
    Dang. Yours looks a lot chunkier (in a good way 😆) than my old '72 Malaga. What wheel size / width? - Bob
  2. tarheelbob
    @visionaut Thanks. These kind of mental meanderings are exactly how I've been approaching this. I'm with you. Just want to make sure I don't miss something in the greater 2002 wisdom files and do something regrettable. Hmmm, 13x7's. Meaty...... - Bob
  3. tarheelbob
    Mike, this is a good example of where I run into questions. When you say "proper offset", are you referring to a stock configuration? I ask because I have 14x6 bottlecaps now with the standard ET35 offset and they sit well under the car and work well with stock fenders. They look ridiculous under the flares, like a G-scale train running on narrow HO-scale tracks. I'd love to give the E30 basketweaves a look, but do they have a low enough offset to fill out the flares? Spacers, maybe? - Bob
  4. tarheelbob
    @TobyB, thanks. That's the first reference to an ET0 I remember on here. When I modeled them one a Rim & Tire Size Calculator, it appeared to be a good offset choice but I was definitely not basing that on any of my '02 experience. Appreciated. - Bob
  5. tarheelbob
    Ok, I have hesitated posting this for a while because, you know...wheels and tires.. Yes. I have read the Tires and Wheels Fitment Guide and the "Stance" Thread (all 95 pages), but I have missed the specifics I need for a possible 13" wheel / tire combo for my 1976. I have full Turbo flares with cut away and welded/finished fenders. It will have Bilstein B6's all around and H&R Sport Springs. I am looking to fill out the flares and avoid any fitment nastiness. My easy path is going with a 15x7 et12 wheel with 205/50-15's to give me something like this (which has that exact combo, including springs and shocks): Pro's - More wheel choices and significantly better selection of modern performance-oriented rubber. Con's - it doesn't look like this: Starting with 13" options, what offset do I need to consider for a 13x6 or 13x6.5 fitment for my set-up? This is the information I cannot put my hands on. I have found very few wheel choices in these sizes, but the search continues. Also, should I be looking at 185/70-13 or up to 205/60-13 tires? Looking for all input on steering effort, rubbing concerns, ET range, spacers needed(?). The gumball learning curve goes on. Thanks for your patience, and I am looking forward to any feedback. - Bob
  6. tarheelbob
    Outstanding! Thanks. Love the sharing of knowledge, experience, and resources on this site. - Bob
  7. tarheelbob
    Do you have the files to share for the 3D printing, or a link pointing me in the right direction? My son in Raleigh would just love to make a few of those for his dear old Dad with the rusty 1976 2002. It's the least he could do, right?
  8. tarheelbob
    Abacus is top notch. I'll be setting a date with them once I'm rolling again for a complete timing and tune of the hot-rodded little engine in mine, complete with a dyno pull! They have done me solid for years.
  9. tarheelbob
    Pulled the Pitman arm from the steering box. That is all. But, I would like to thank previous owners for liberally coating, oh, EVERYTHING with old-school tar-based undercoating. Good times...🤬
  10. tarheelbob
    Well, damn.....
  11. tarheelbob
    More front suspension and steering disassembly adventures. Started with this... Now have this...
  12. tarheelbob
    Dropped front subframe and pulled the whole m/c - booster assembly. Lots of new stuff going in. All brackets, frames, mount boxes, etc. getting cleaned, blasted, primed and painted.
  13. tarheelbob
    Started the front subframe removal on my '76. Engine braced, transmission supported. Motor mount bolts pulled. Steering shaft pinch bolts removed (Note to self: remove brake booster and master cylinder next time! THAT was tedious...). Barring any setbacks, subframe should be pulled free tomorrow! - Bob
  14. tarheelbob
    My '76 uses the WT3
  15. tarheelbob
    @TobyB Thanks. The car came with this nicely upgraded engine, and runs very well, but I have not been able to really stretch it due to the lousy brakes and suspension situation. I'll keep all this in mind when I deep dive into timing and tuning. As to fuel pressure, definitely need a fuel pressure gauge for the electronic pump. Webers are very particular and need low pressure fuel delivery in the 2.5 - 3.5 psi range. I need that visibility, yes. - Bob
  16. tarheelbob
    Thanks, Tom. Vey helpful, and I'll keep this in mind when I go for tuning set-up. The car has an MSD electronic ignition, Ireland Engineering intake manifold, and electronic fuel pump. - Bob
  17. tarheelbob
    @Son of Marty and @Alexander Thanks,guys. You answered my questions (for now), straight to the point. There will be more, I promise. - Bob
  18. tarheelbob
    Will a 215mm clutch/flywheel (stock, HD., or Stage 1) designed for the OEM 4-speed, still fit with Getrag 245 5-speed, or do I need a specific set-up? What variations should I be aware of for the fitment between the two transmissions? - Bob
  19. tarheelbob
    Thanks! Have already started the inquiries into a 3.91 ratio LSD. It's a "must" with this build. After a bunch of reading and researching, I was feeling that a good, stout, 215mm set-up would be a decent fit. I appreciate the feedback. Oh, and I'll have a local race shop help me really dial in the timing and carb set-up on a chassis dyno once I get her road worthy. I can get the Webers in the ballpark, but a need a really good baseline. - Bob
  20. tarheelbob
    Hello! First real post related to my 1976 2002. This little car was picked up on BAT, and has a great engine with dual side-draft DCOE 45Webers, 10.5:1 Ross racing pistons, tubular headers, an E21 head, and a hot .302-degree cam. This is pertinent to my questions. I've gotten my hands on a nice Getrag 245 5-speed and want to do the full conversion. The car is going up on it's stands for a full brake system rebuild and a full front/rear suspension upgrade and refresh. Both sub-frames will be dropped. While I am in there, the transmission will be addressed. I need input on the following: Given the hot cam and higher horsepower motor, am I well-advised to go with the 228mm tii flywheel with something like the Sachs Performance Clutch kit? The car will not be a track car, and will be "fast street", at most. I'm concerned about the loss of low-end torque in the lower rev range due to the cam set-up, and wondering whether a heavier flywheel will actually help with that. I do not know what is in there right now given the PO engine rebuild and stock 4-speed transmission. It functions fine with no discernible slip, but will be replaced with a good fit for the 5-speed. I am tempted to stay with a new 215mm diameter set-up, and maybe a Stage 1 clutch upgrade, with a lightened, but not aluminum, flywheel. Thoughts? - Bob
  21. tarheelbob
    Following. Great questions so far, and it looks like you've got a game plan. Very interested in this, but had not found much encouraging on how to handle the engine management/ECU controls. Keep us posted on the Motec program and functionality. - Bob
  22. tarheelbob

    tarheelbob

    tarheelbob posted a Community Map marker in Members

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