Pablo M

@Son of Marty new Hella voltage regulator just installed now. Dash light still stays on. Thought I should check the belt tension as I do think I left it a bit loose, out of spec. Checked it and it had come completely loose! The alternator bolt had come loose on the new toothed bracket. User error for not tightening it down right. No more light!

To add more degrees lower down, 500/1000/1500 should be higher, like 10-12 degrees. He also suggested I delete some points, like 800/1000, 2500/3000/3500 all should be removed. He also said to sync the dizzy to the actual car timing. He said to do this, set all the settings to 12 degrees then run the car and time it with a timing light to verify its at 12. If its off then turn the dizzy till you get 12. That syncs the dizzy to actual timing. Then reset the curve. Blunttech had similar feedback on the curve as well.

Much better! It still took a bit to start when cold, but nothing like this. It currently takes forever. I have been chatting with both Sean at Blunttech and Ed at 123Ignition. Both of which were fantastic and gave me a few tips to try in the coming couple days.

Now getting more frustrated. I think dizzy has default programming as I can’t confirm it’s got the original one I wrote. trying to change it and I can’t get it to write to the dizzy. not getting blue light (but can see green glow from inside so I know it’s got power). app shows it connected, both by green light on dashboard page and a check next to it on settings BUT, when these two are present the blue light is not. When I wire the dizzy directly to battery, pos to pos, neg to neg per 123 website, I get the blue light but app won’t connect-no green light on app dashboard, can’t find it in settings (endless spinning icon). I honestly am at a loss here.

Well I can’t pass that up! I can come down and pick it up this week. I’ll message you about availability. If I can eliminate any variables it’ll help! Not turning over slowly. Turns over as before, not too fast or slow. Turns over normally. It just won’t start. First handful of cranks (each about 5-10 seconds) seem like no fuel, just cranking. Then it starts to sound like it wants to fire. Then more and eventually starts. started easily before. Only change was dizzy.

It’s working so far so I’ll not change it until it’s a problem. I’ve had to recharge it a few times due to constant attempts at starting it over the last year, as I’ve worked on it. correct, 13.6. Yesterday it was at 14 off, 13.6 when running. Yes. I set the engine to tdc by checking the cam gear alignment (removed the valve cover) and the old distributor rotor was at the #1 lead. Magen I installed the 123 I followed the instructions on setting it up and the green light was already on when I powered it up. I turned it slightly ccw and it went off right away. Came back on when I returned it to position. once running it sounds fine. It’s just cold start is worse now with 123. Yes but it was like that before and it ran fine. Still runs fine now once started. It’s starting it that is a problem.

I attached the multimeter to the coil + and - while cranking and at the start of cranking it read 1.15, then went to 0.5. This was with the multimeter set to 20V. Same setting used to check the battery which was at 13.6 with ignition off. the coil:

All good questions. I'll check the voltage at the coil when I get back to the garage with an extra pair of hands. I'll post a photo of the coil. Its red and was in the car when I purchased the car 18 months ago. I have PO records to when new, possibly incomplete, and only mention of a coil being replaced is 1997. Not sure the resistor but I'll post a photo. Battery looks like it was replaced in 2013, but sat the entire time since it was replaced. I had battery recahrged and seems to hold a charge ok. Still showing 13.6v across battery posts when off. Thanks for this. I thought I had gotten my numbers from someone also with a tii. Maybe it was a square tail tii? Dunno but I'll try your numbers and see what happens. Thanks.

I installed the 123+ Bluetooth dizzy. Now it’s VERY hard to start. Like 20 cranks when cold. I exaggerate, but it’s a lot. started much easier before the 123. Once running it runs like before. If I turning off and restart it it starts quickly. If I let it sit for a little while it’s hard to start again. current situation: -1972 2002tii -new Kingsborne wires, new Bosch correct plugs, rebuilt head. -suspect a faulty voltage regulator as when running its not charging (red L light steady on). @Son of Marty diagnosed it as bad. Have one on order. Don’t know if related. Followed directions to set up custom settings for dizzy and “wrote” to dizzy. Blue light on and app connected. set up dizzy with these numbers (from research here): 500 6 800. 6 1000. 15 1500. 20 2000. 25 2500. 28 3000. 30 3500. 32 4000. 32 8000. 36 what could be causing hard starting? Where do I start?

This week I installed the 123+ Bluetooth distributor. Didn’t start easily and realized it’s not connecting and didn’t take the settings. Need to figure out how to get the blue light to turn on. Will try direct wires from +/- on battery to same on coil per 123 website. Car runs though. Drove it around a bit. Also discovered my alternator light stays on. Belt is loose but multi meter also shows 14.0 with ignition off, 13.8 with engine running. So I think the original alternator didn’t survive my replacing the bushings. New alternator likely. Also discovered my starter is going out. Lots more times I got grinding instead of turning the flywheel. So there’s that. On the bright side I drove the car and looks like I’m close to getting it on the road regularly. Also put my old race numbers on the car. All my project/second/track cars run my same number from when I raced. it’s a vanity thing lol.

In the midst of installing the dizzy. Couple questions for those that have installed a 123+ Bluetooth, and bonus if it was on a 72 tii. Background: 1972 2002tii, consulted with Sean at Blunttech (awesome dude, super helpful on many fronts) to get me the correct dizzy for my car. My car has red coil, and is stock. I read many threads here on FAQ, read the install instructions on 123 website, watched the two YouTube videos commonly referenced in the previous info. Seeing conflicting directions on how to wire the three wires. The best info I can find, and how I have wired it is this: Red- Pos on coil Blue-Neg on coil Black-direct to chassis ground Questions: 1. Is that the correct orientation of the wires? On the 123 website says black direct to battery neg post. But everywhere else says just to ground. I assume its fine to ground. 2. Assuming 1 is yes...Prior to turning ignition on and turning the dizzy to set the light, does the black not get connected (to chassis ground) or the blue (neg on coil)? If blue, does the black get connected or not. The more I read the more it seems the coil neg is the one not to be connected. One of the videos is not bluetooth so only has two wires, red and black, with black going to neg coil. And in that example, black is not connected. All other instructions say, "do not connect black wire", but on mine the black is chassis ground. Any help is greatly appreciated.

1) Amber/Clear/Smoked -amber first, clear second 2) Willing to pay $80.00 for first 100 pairs and $70.00 for second 100 pairs if market is still hungry for round 2? Yes 3) Send payment "Friends and Family" only on PayPal? Yes/no- yes 4) Approve of my selling format on 2002FAQ For Sale forums? Yes/No- yes 5) Any other questions you might have place here please.- no other questions

Finished up the wiring for my driving lights. Installed IE front sway bar Got my very high quality FAQ shirt!

Me too. Given mine is a poor driver condition car overall and will stay that way for time eternal, these would be perfect for me! lol. Seriously, I'd love a pair for my 72. Clears would be even better, but ambers are fine. Pablo-

That looks like a nice and inexpensive solution.

Thanks for confirming John. I’ll set it up on a switch powered through 3/4. Not sure why everyone seems to assume I want them automatically on when the cars headlights are turned on (low or high). Most of the time the DL’s will be off.

Im not sure I'm making myself clear. I dont want them to come on automatically when I turn on my headlights (low beam). That's what you're saying sounds like. I want to turn them on/off independently, but do not want to need my high beams on to do so. When (lwo beam) lights are on I want to be able to turn them on/off. Thanks. I was going to reframe my question as fogs instead of driving lights. I understand beam spread and such, and that its not the same as headlight bulbs. Also, low beams have been 55w since 1962 (had to look it up). I will pay special attention to aiming them. Back in the day I aimed them just left/right of center and slightly down to light up the inside of corners when night driving the canyons. Now, this sketch you post, came up loads of times in the threads I researched here. Back to one of my original questions. Is #9 fuse the right fuse? There was some debate on a thread that it should be #3 or #4 instead. Will connecting to #9 fuse allow me to turn lights on/off when low beams are on? And HOW do I physically connect to the fuse? Do I splice into a wire that plugs into bottom of fuse box? Do I find that wire under the dash? I'm lost on the specifics as no thread mentions it other than as sketch above.

I guess I wasn't clear. I do not want the lights to work with my high beams. I do not want to run them with high beams. They're only 55W so same as low beams, which means I won't be blinding other cars and can leave them on with oncoming traffic. Regardless whether you agree or not, I'd like some help with wiring it in this manner. The Hella kit comes with a wiring harness. It has an inline fuse between power/battery and the relay. It also has an inline fuse between the switch power and wherever you connect for power. The relay it comes with is plastic and has a separate ground wire, does not ground itself by its mounting. I already have wires going through the firewall so I can wire the switch. Relay is placed on the firewall at the driver's side. The way I have it wired as of now is EXACTLY like the diagram @John76 posted, except power to the switch (red/white wire). Where can I draw power so that I can turn them on/off with low beams on?

Help. Electrics are not my strong suit. None of it is really lol. I installed Hella 500 driving lights on my 1972 2002tii and have them wired up all the way to the firewall. Very carefully and neatly have everything ready to go less the switch. I’m going to use the toggle switch that came with the Hella kit, although eventually probably do something more age appropriate looking. The fused power wire for the lights, connects to terminal 2 on the 3-prong switch, where do I connect to so I can use the lights with low beams on? I’ve read tons of threads here and my head is spinning. I read connect to fuse #9 (heater) then another said no, fuse 3 or 4 (low beams) instead. How do I even do that? Do I pull the fuse box and splice into the incoming wire from underneath? Or do I pull from something in steering column or under dash? help please.

I just did this too. Odd though as all I read showed the larger faces bushing on back. Front one sits flush. I was just installing them earlier today. in addition, I also installed the Hella 500 driving lights my son gave me For Xmas. Sourced Phillipe’s brackets from the man himself.

Lily hangs out with some nefarious people. I've seen similar scams here and its always been 'talk to Lily. Her husband was a member here.". LOL.

I had to reorder the bushing set having destroyed the one last one I tried to force in. Arrived the other day (thanks @BLUNT for fast shipping!). Did exactly as you described: used Dremel as a lathe to remove outer material, with 100 grit, slowly until it ‘just’ fit. Then took sanding drum on Dremel to inside until the insert ‘just’ fit as well. Did same for bushing already in. All together now and will go back in tomorrow. Thanks for the help everyone!

You made me remember something. I looked through the box of random parts that came in the trunk of the car when I bought it 18 months ago. Found a horn. Back looks marked for the wire positions too. Wonder why they took it off and didn’t put it back on. When the car was repainted they didn’t remove the other side. Maybe they were going to replace it since it’s broken? We’ll never know. I should reinstall it.

On passenger side (right) there are these wires just hanging behind my grille. Double brown and single with connector. Driver side has horn but not the same wiring. many suggestions what these are for?