What did you do to your 2002 today !

[0257]

8 hours ago, chargin said:

Got my newish built motor today so I stripped down mine that’s on its way to a new owner and with the help of a friend we pulled out mine and installed the new one, all before dark 

 

my starting point

 

After about 2 hours disassembly

 

pulled out this BadBoy for the fun

prepping done 

 

Happily motor out

 

All happy and done before dark 

Fine looking work as always.

[0257]

5 hours ago, MauiBob said:

I'm using this thread for a major shout-out-props to Ian at Polish Powertrain for his awesome water divider.

I've been nursing my stock one along living in fear about it blowing up from corrosion, shopped them for ages they are grossly overpriced and hard to find.  Ian has them made and cast overseas and hand-finishes them in his shop, it's burly, well-made and affordable.   I love his part number too. 00!!

 

If you need one, he has!

 

Aloha, Bob

Wow.  Never even knew this alternative existed.  Site says it’s suitable for all M10s; wonder if anyone on the FAQ has used this for a tii?  I think it may require more machining to fit?

[its55]

2 hours ago, 0257 said:

Wow.  Never even knew this alternative existed.  Site says it’s suitable for all M10s; wonder if anyone on the FAQ has used this for a tii?  I think it may require more machining to fit?

 

thought this link might help - 

Polish Powertrain

POLISHPOWERTRAIN.COM

---

Aftermarket Solutions for Aging Platforms

 

[D.martijn]

After finishing the rear quarter panels. We decided to remove the rear differential cross member after finding out there was quite a bit of rust still hiding inside.

 

old picture showing rust on the cross member is self and boot floor section. Although definitely no severe, why not take it out since we have gone this far with replacing panels

µ

 

I already ordered the replacement panel from Restoration Design from their warehouse in the Netherlands.

When I bought the panel, I noticed the Touring and Sedan have different part numbers, I send them an email asking if the panel would still fit the Touring, and they assured me it would. I didn't bother to check further and ordered it.

However when I now look closer and compare the pictures on their website with our Touring. It is in fact different.. 

 

In the end we decided to go further with the removal of the panel and see where we end up. I did measure the profile of the panel if we do need to remake it. There is a company wo lasercuts and bends not far away from my home, I might go by and ask if they can bent this panel for me, since it's quite thick and I don't think our sheet metal brake will handle it.

 

Again levelling the car since we moved it over a little because of the welding/fixture table I purchased.

 

Couple reference pictures

 

 

Rear exhaust hanger

 

 

Panel completely removed, using the small die grinder with a cut off wheel to grind down the spot welds.

 

 

Some of the rust cleaned up, not too bad. I treated it with Rustyco to remove it completely

 

Both corners got treated as well as a couple of spots on the middle

 

After two treatments, I'll try to mechanically remove some of the rust in the corner and then apply Rustyco again.

 

 

I also remove the tow hook and treated the rust pitting with Rustyco

Was this hook just for shipping? cant imagine pulling a car with this though..

[Tommy]

12 hours ago, chargin said:

Got my newish built motor today so I stripped down mine that’s on its way to a new owner and with the help of a friend we pulled out mine and installed the new one, all before dark

What was done to your new motor?

I'm right now working to get new bearings installed for my F20C. Plastigauge showing ok.

This was precaution due to unfortunate oil hose failure. Crank bearings were fine but rod bearings were in need of service.

 

[chargin]

5 minutes ago, Tommy said:

What was done to your new motor?

I'm right now working to get new bearings installed for my F20C. Plastigauge showing ok.

This was precaution due to unfortunate oil hose failure. Crank bearings were fine but rod bearings were in need of service.

new CP Pistons 11:1

Pauter forged Rods

Titanium spring retainers 

HD valve springs 

all new bearings and seals

AP2 Banjo bolts 

new clutch assembly 

Benson’s Engineering Sleeved Block 

Ballade TCT 

 

 

 

 

[chargin]

On 1/15/2024 at 8:28 AM, 2002iii said:

That header is pure artwork!

Finished Update 

 

the OEM Honda heat shields covers the top half of the header that we retained 

[Son of Marty]

7 hours ago, chargin said:

Finished Update 

I thought Tommy and Tezi provided the Finnish updates.🤔

Edited January 21 by Son of Marty

[0257]

After months of one step forward/one back, trying to button up the driveline vibration saga this weekend: newly balanced dshaft installed; new e36-core 3.64:1 LSD installed loose on the frame to allow it to settle when I start the motor and run it on jackstands for a bit; dshaft-to-diff new factory locknuts (since they have been on and off a few times during the saga, a little blue loctite) tightened to TAF spec:

Tranny raised, mount tight, giubo buttoned up, almost forgot to tighten the adjustment nut on the shift tower mount(!):

CSB lowered to get the giubo angle right, preloaded and tight.  I got so tired of dropping washers on my face that I epoxied the sumbidges together (we’ll see how that holds up)! 

 

Now it’s back to the front end.  Part of diagnosing the vibration was to cut the a/c belt, just to ensure the buzz wasn’t coming from there.  Next time I’ll pull the entire drivetrain, build a test stand and hire a crew of seismologists to find a vibration before I cut the a/c belt. You a/c’d tii’ers will know why.  

 

Thought I might as well get a new W&N crank pulley to round out the straight parts collection.  Couldn’t get it on the badly peened hub without some fine file work.  Finally got it on today.  I kept tightening those little 6mm bolts till I was pretty sure was going to break them without getting to 15 ft lbs.  Loctite again.  Ignore the dots — for a timing experiment I intend to undertake. Also to drive the next owner nuts.

 

Next up: fan pulley with shiny new bits.

 

Then it’s on to the cooling system, tighten it all down, fill it up, battery back in and pray.

[bergie33]

I started drilling spot welds for my passenger floor replacement. These little spot welds cutters work really good.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 20 by bergie33

[0257]

Belts on and tight, radiator in, hoses tight, and finally the fuel filter is in the correct location!  On to the exhaust!

[MauiBob]

11 hours ago, 0257 said:

Wow.  Never even knew this alternative existed.  Site says it’s suitable for all M10s; wonder if anyone on the FAQ has used this for a tii?  I think it may require more machining to fit?

 My understanding is that Ian first got going on this as his father-in-law maybe? Had a 320i with a bad one and he got motivated to build a better one!  I'm not sure the difference with the tii divider, but his has 3 ports for sensors on top, I plugged two and used my factory sensor.

[popovm]

6 hours ago, bergie33 said:

I started drilling spot welds for my passenger floor replacement. These little spot welds cutters work really good.

 

 

 

I’ve had a good experience with them too. I use a center punch before drilling or it would walk on me. I bought some burr grinders to use in my angle grinder and they do ok but are so damn loud and I found it’s actually easier to minimize damage to the underlying panel with the drill style cutters. 

[D.martijn]

3 hours ago, popovm said:

I’ve had a good experience with them too. I use a center punch before drilling or it would walk on me. I bought some burr grinders to use in my angle grinder and they do ok but are so damn loud and I found it’s actually easier to minimize damage to the underlying panel with the drill style cutters. 

 

You just need to be sure that you don't drill to deep which is very easy to do. I do prefer using a little belt sander or pneumatic die grinder with a thicker cut off disc to grind down where the spotweld is. You well see the panel getting discoloration meaning you are almost through the first panel.

 

Of course you want be able to reuse this panel so depends what you are repairing

[tarheelbob]

Pulled the Pitman arm from the steering box. That is all.

 

But, I would like to thank previous owners for liberally coating, oh, EVERYTHING with old-school tar-based undercoating. Good times...🤬