Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

What did you do to your 2002 today !


Recommended Posts

38 minutes ago, Leucadian said:

Loctite for the next rotor?  I'm going to keep a spare in the car regardless.  

Sorry but I just can’t stop myself.. maybe you should keep a spare original , non exploding dizzy the in car. ?

Edited by tech71

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Sorry but I have to say it... maybe you should keep a spare original , non exploding dizzy the car. ?

 

I prefer the exploding variety, keeps things interesting.

Engine bay OCD is a real problem

 

@02carbs 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check your engine mounts and drivers side subframe mount a soft mount or a broken mounting ear can cause the dist cap to hit the firewall.

  • Like 3

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Leucadian said:

My dizzy rotor disintegrated, again.  2nd time in about 2 years.

 

Do you by chance have an 002 distributor with Pertronix?

 

EDIT - because sometimes the magnetic ring doesn't let the rotor seat completely with that model.

 

However, I looked at your photo again and noticed that you have the early style rotor in your hand, with the extra skirt around the outside and a step in the bore that makes it narrower at the top.  That style is for the earliest distributors with a step in the center post.  

 

image.thumb.png.575a00995d13e494e5033a313e2293d3.png

 

The 123 uses a stepped rotor too.


Tom

Edited by '76mintgrün'02
  • Like 1

   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Do you by chance have an 002 distributor with Pertronix?

 

EDIT - because sometimes the magnetic ring doesn't let the rotor seat completely with that model.

 

However, I looked at your photo again and noticed that you have the early style rotor in your hand, with the extra skirt around the outside and a step in the bore that makes it narrower at the top.  That style is for the earliest distributors with a step in the center post.  

 

image.thumb.png.575a00995d13e494e5033a313e2293d3.png

 

The 123 uses a stepped rotor too.


Tom


 

I have a 123 distributor.  The first time this happened I ordered a new rotor direct from 123, because I know people have had issues running oem rotors on that particular dizzy.


 

 

Engine bay OCD is a real problem

 

@02carbs 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep.  Issues with the clamps that hold the cap on too.  They're too soft and easily deformed.

 

Was this a 123 ignitions supplied rotor?

 

EDIT- I reread it and it seems it was a 123 part.

 

Distributors have a difficult job.

Edited by '76mintgrün'02
  • Like 1

   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/30/2022 at 7:50 AM, Highnote1 said:

 

5F94BA29-5B89-47C9-89CC-BC0907B724AF.jpeg

 

 

 

That is one happy looking garage!! Three cheers for all band / orchestra directors. As someone else mentioned, it gave my daughter her identity & crew throughout high school. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Check your engine mounts and drivers side subframe mount a soft mount or a broken mounting ear can cause the dist cap to hit the firewall.

 

Mounts are good, very little engine movement and a fair amount of clearance from the dizzy to the firewall.  

 

Plus, the cap was secured still when the rotor blew.  

Engine bay OCD is a real problem

 

@02carbs 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Toga said:

Hi John, would you have a link to Jason P. rebuilt relay? Tks

Here's a link to Jason's blog and you could send him a PM

 

  • Like 1

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

Making and routing the major power wires.  Really tell the difference between the Chinese lugs/heat shrink/wire cable and more quality stuff.  Initially bought a bit hardware at different price points to compare. 
 


 

 

0B5B07C4-D78A-4DDA-88E6-227037BC65F7.jpeg

Looks great! And yes, there are vast quality differences between the various grades of electrical connectors and hardware.

 

I have been accumulating various factory BMW battery cables from the 1990s/2000s, we used to replace certain body harnesses of E39 5-series (IIRC), and BMW always sent a bunch of extra B+ cables with the factory repair kit that weren't needed. They are good quality, will come in handy when eventually move my 2002tii battery to the rear of the car. I already used some in my beater Alfa GTV6 :)

Chris A
---'73 2002tii Chamonix w/ flares, sunroof, 15x7s, LSD, Bilstein Sports w/ H&R springs, upgraded sway bars, E21 Recaros
---'86 Porsche 944 Turbo grey street/track car

---'81 Alfa Romeo GTV6 rescued from junkyard, Lemons Rally/"GT" car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

Making and routing the major power wires.  Really tell the difference between the Chinese lugs/heat shrink/wire cable and more quality stuff.  Initially bought a bit hardware at different price points to compare. 
 


 

 

 

 

Nice work, Andrew.

 

For comparison, how about this battery cut-off switch I found on a recently-purchased 2002…. -KB

 

58BDE85D-0D25-4B25-B3D6-04EB83794729.thumb.jpeg.c054d29fc3491987a76dc1dc0e11e32a.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
  • Confused 2
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...