cda951

Kugelfischer
  • Content count

    300
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

156 Excellent

2 Followers

About cda951

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Santa Barbara, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,593 profile views
  1. The "PMV" of the KF pump is nothing special, just a calibrated restriction in the return line of the pump. The fitting does contain a small spring-loaded poppet valve, likely to provide some means of dampening the pulsations of the electronic fuel pump, along with maintaining some fuel pressure in the system after engine shutoff. Anything that can mount in-line with the return line (doesn't matter exactly where) and is adjustable to regulate the pressure to spec will work . . . . the Bosch fuel pressure regulator that jimk posted is from an old D-Jetronic system (Porsche 914, Mercedes, etc) and will work well if you can find a place to mount it . . . .
  2. Horrible tii cold start problems

    I tend to agree with the above, but voltage drops are super easy and quick to check. Much quicker than swapping more components or adjusting valves (which is not your problem, by the way). . . . or how about checking for a voltage drop in the cold start injector circuit while cranking? A cheapo aftermarketo toggle switch and the wiring to and from could easily cause that . . . .
  3. Horrible tii cold start problems

    Hi Rob, Based on your description, it seems like most of the fuel and ignition components in question are at least somewhat functional and/or have been checked or swapped with another car. But, I'd cover all the basic diagnostic bases before swapping more stuff. The previous suggestion to check to double-check the battery voltage while cranking is a good one . . . or at least try cold-starting it with a jumper battery connected to see if the situation improves. It sounds like you may not have checked for voltage drops at various points while cranking the engine (you'll either need long jumper wires or a willing volunteer for this). I'd check directly at the cold start injector, at the fuel pump (also hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see if it there is sufficient pressure while cranking), and at various points in the ignition system (as well as at the ignition switch itself). A significant voltage drop at any one of these points could easily cause a cold starting issue. Of course any given voltage drop might increase with heat/load in the electrical system or from the environment, but in your case it could be that once there is some heat in the combustion chambers, the engine will start easier and the charging voltage will overcome any deficiencies in the electrical system. Good luck.
  4. After years of being street-parked, my 2002tii has a safer place to park, as I finally found a reasonably-priced rental here in Santa Barbara with a garage! Now, it is more of a glorified shed than a garage, and it only has room for one small car, but it is a vast improvement over my previous situation. My girlfriend and I now also have off-street parking for our four other cars, something which neither of us had in our previous residences! It's a bit of a tight squeeze, but I was able to make some additional space for workbenches and storage. I have the privilege of working at an automotive shop and I use those facilities for major work, but it will be nice to finally have the ability to do small jobs at home. Previously I always had to make sure the car was out of my shop lot by the next business day; now I can leave a car on jackstands at home with no worries and come back to it when I have time!
  5. Until recently, my 2002tii was my daily driver of sorts and was always street-parked along with my other cars as I had no off-street parking (hard to find here in Santa Barbara). Now I didn't love leaving it on the street, but SB is a relatively safe place and I never had any issues. It also helps that my particular car is a bit scruffy (looks good from 10 feet away, though!) and already has been modified with fiberglass front end, fender flares from the '80s, etc. Not that I wouldn't be pissed if someone hit it, but I know that it will eventually need to go under the knife anyway to fix rocker panel rust, cracked fiberglass in front, etc. Now, if I had just dropped $50K+ for a professional (or home) restoration, I might be a bit more careful, But, I purposely do not plan on ever making mine that "nice," as I want to continue driving the shit out of it! It is a veteran of several Targas California (including Targa Baja in Mexico), and I plan to keep on using it for that. However, as outlined in another thread, I finally got a rental house with a garage, and the 2002tii is safely tucked away until I find the time to repair the vacuum leaks at the throttle body shaft seals and warmup regulator . . . . I haven't been driving it or working on it much for the past 6+ months as I have had to dedicate my time to my Alfa GTV6 Lemons Rally project and making my Porsche 944 Turbo track car faster. I hope it gets back on the road soon!
  6. tii throttle body shaft seals

    Hi Paul, I kind of expected crickets on this one. I will get on this in the next couple of weeks and report what I find. I am assuming that there are some sort of rubber O-rings or seals in there, but the only FI throttle bodies I have disassembled have been '80s Bosch Motronic-type ones like that of my 944 (of course carburetor throttles and those of MFI Porsche 911s have no such bushings and need to be re-bored/re-bushed if worn). There is no radial shaft play, however so I think there are replaceable seals in there . . . . I do have a tight-fitting cap for the bottom portion, but it is a band-aid. I think the factory put a cap there to protect the lower portion of the shaft and its hardware against the elements and corrosion and not to actually seal the shaft. And, I am soon moving into a house with an actual garage and off-street parking, so I'll be able to leave my cars disabled for extended periods. I have a shop at my disposal, but I can't have a car stay on the lot during the week, so it has to be back up and running same night, or by Monday if it's a weekend! But, I do have a lot of O-rings and seals laying around, so I'll see what I can find! Thank you, Chris
  7. Good evening all, My '73 tii is pissed at me of late as some months ago I relinquished its daily-driven status to the Italian concern listed in my signature below. As such, it has decided to run quite lean at idle, to the point where it pops and misses. Just off idle it is perfectly OK. I smoke tested the intake system and found a minor leak from the warmup regulator air intake holes (even with the piston fully extended), so I bypassed that, and still had smoke pouring out from the upper and lower throttle body shaft seals. I had capped off the lower shaft seal a few years ago and my improvised seal had since come off, but even with a new cap I still get a lot of smoke out of the upper seal (inside the tuna can), and a spritz of brake cleaner makes an immediate difference in idle mixture/quality. My question is: has anyone here gone down the road of disassembling the tii throttle body and sourcing replacement seals/O-rings for the main throttle body shaft? If so, I'd like to know what size seals were used as it would save me a lot of time. I had the same issue years ago with my Porsche 944 Turbo and the aftermarket had a seal kit readily available, which cured the issue. Even if this is relatively uncharted territory, I will take the thing apart anyway and attempt to match up some seals (I work at a Porsche/BMW shop with lots of O-rings and seals laying around). Thanks in advance for any help. Chris
  8. Mine is kind of an Old Car 101 topic, but cleaning up all major electrical connections was a big one----when I first bought my 2002tii, almost none of the exterior lights worked, and a combination of cleaning all of the fuses/contacts and most of the bulb contacts and other critical junction points got everything working. Actual monetary cost: zero (I already owned a set of wire brushes). Time was about an hour, if that. Later, I went back through and re-wired a number of items under the hood, which probably cost about $15 in materials and about another hour. If only everything were that cheap and simple!
  9. Newly installed CV/axle bolts should ALWAYS be re-torqued after an initial test drive/heat cycle. What sometimes happens is that the CV joint caps/flanges are not quite seated all the way on the joint (I always go around and clamp them down with pliers to ensure they are seated, while the axles are still on the bench). The threads of the bolts will actually stretch and torque to spec, but after some driving the caps will seat all the way, which means that the bolts cannot provide any more clamping force and thus back out. No amount of Loctite or similar will prevent this! Of course, even properly torqued CV bolts are subjected to a lot of load and stress, especially in a track environment and with a LSD rear end. My 944 Turbo track car has endured 10 years of this, and has gone through its share of CV joints due to normal wear and tear. The 944 uses the same M8, grade 12.9 spec of axle bolt as the 02, and I torque them to 30 ft-lbs. I don't use any sort of threadlocker or safety wire or locking bolts (though I make sure that the threads are clean), I simply make it a habit to re-torque them after any axle shaft removal, and before and after every track event. Every now and then I find one or two bolts that are a tiny bit loose, but I have never had one back out. Ditto with my 2002tii with E21 LSD: they are inspected regularly and as such are never an issue.
  10. Well, the 24 Hours of Lemons Races (in which I have participated several times) have a theoretical $500 limit, but the Lemons Rally does not have a dollar limit. Instead, they incentivize questionable cars via a points system: https://24hoursoflemons.com/lemons-rally/ The GTV6 was acquired for cheap nonetheless (and we actually got a clean CA title!), and even after all of the parts we have thrown at it we are in for less than a comparable car would go for on the open market (plus I'm 100% sure any comparable GTV6 wouldn't be as reliable). The car had 42K miles on it when we bought it (I believe it after looking at the cylinder bores), and now has close to 51K. And yes, my girlfriend is awesome! We only drive fun and cool cars (except when she drives to/from work in her company car).
  11. What a fantastic array of car collections! My 2002tii joined my '86 Porsche 944 Turbo (almost 4 years ago now); the 944 has steadily evolved into a track car during my decade of ownership (though it is still driven to the track). The 2002tii had thus become the daily driver, when I do drive (don't need to do much of that here in Santa Barbara). Then my girlfriend and I went off the deep end last year and purchased a 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6 from a Copart salvage yard, which had been sitting for 15+ years (great idea, right?). But I went through the car and got it running well (after a valve job and going through the entire fuel system and braking system), and it recently completed a 3,000+ mile journey for the Lemons Rally without a hitch, and has gone 8,500+ trouble-free miles so far (not joking)! My girlfriend also has a '99 Z3 Coupe, which happens to be an excellent choice for hauling cornhole sets: She also had a '92 Miata until recently, but begrudgingly sold it because she didn't have room for two sports cars and her boring Acura RDX company car. But, we are moving to a place with a small garage and off-street parking, so we will need to find another convertible!
  12. Yes, I do realize that the circuits are separated. I have measured the current of the switching circuit of the MSD 6AL2 at 0.8 amps (by using my low-current inductive ammeter), which should be safe, but the 123 US rep seemed leery about the prospect of running the 123 with MSD, so I am forwarding this here as a FYI. Perhaps the units that he repaired were wired incorrectly . . . . Regardless, I am willing to try this out on my tii due to the flexibility of tuning and the bolt-in nature of 123 the system and my desire to maintain the Kugelfischer injection system. Of course full standalone EFI systems offer a wide range of ignition timing control, but the reasonably-priced ignition-only modules that I have seen are not as sophisticated as the 123!
  13. Yeah, I have done this before and I even have an old Sun distributor machine at my shop . . . . but I simply lack the time and capacity to mess around with such things these days. The poor 2002 has been on the back burner of late. Too many old cars with too many needs!
  14. I have been debating the 123 setup for a couple of years now (it looks like a great setup), but I am skeptical about its longevity when coupled with high-energy CD ignition systems like the MSD (I have a 6AL2 system installed in my 2002tii). 123 says 1.5 ohms of primary resistance is needed, and the MSD Blaster coils have 0.7-0.8 ohms (my car has an old Blaster 2 coil that had worked well with Pertronix for a long time for myself and the previous owner). I contacted the US distributor of 123ignition systems (Ed) about this, and he said that he has had two different units in for repair that had been used with MSD ignitions. In both cases, the black wire had overheated and de-soldered from the circuit board. Nonetheless, I might give it a try at some point to see how much of a difference it makes at higher RPM (my distributor isn't completely wasted, but has some vertical shaft play and the timing certainly scatters a bit at higher RPM . . . . I'll probably go with the Bosch red coil to be safe!
  15. When I first bought my 2002tii a few years ago, I had to pull the trans right away to replace a noisy throwout bearing. I was shocked to find that it had an 8.5-lb JB Racing aluminum flywheel installed, because the car was/is extremely easy to drive with none of the typical lightweight flywheel noise/stalling issues. I could certainly feel the difference in how the engine revved up/down when compared to customer 2002s, but it is otherwise quite smooth with no gear rattle (which is typical in more modern cars when the factory dual-mass flywheel is replaced with a single-mass version). My educated guess is that because the stock M10 crankshaft is quite heavy, removing some mass from the flywheel will not make a world of difference. Now if one were to install such a light flywheel in a Porsche 911 (which has a much lighter crankshaft despite being a 6-cylinder engine), it would be quite difficult to drive on the street. The JB Racing piece is OK, but when I removed it to rebuild the engine, all of the steel thread inserts for the clutch pressure plate bolts backed out, so I had to install oversized "big-sert" thread inserts to repair this. But, I love how the engine revs up!