engine and drivetrain My Tii Engine Project. Found An Interesting Part.

[stephers]

Ha Ha I remember those, raced a 64 Triumph Spitfire 1100 cc   for a while has one of those dist in it. It was pretty easy to set things with that, eyeball them close enough to get the engine started and use the nut to set the dwell, so easy   Lots of the older MGB's and Austins had them 

 

 

Paul, I must say that you are doing an excellent job on the engine both in cosmetics and within the actual building of the project. Having first hand knowledge of this engine, I can certainly vouch for Paul's work   Well Done!

 

Rick

[jgerock]

As mentioned above, the distributor isn't correct for a 72/73 tii.  Also, I believe there should be either black rubber or plastic isolators for the plug wire clamps that are on the valve cover bolts.   

 

Paul- you're doing a beautiful job on this engine!  If it were mine, I would use the smaller E30 M3 starter.

[ray_]

6 hours ago, jgerock said:

As mentioned above, the distributor isn't correct for a 72/73 tii.  Also, I believe there should be either black rubber or plastic isolators for the plug wire clamps that are on the valve cover bolts.   

 

Paul- you're doing a beautiful job on this engine!  If it were mine, I would use the smaller E30 M3 starter.

 

 

I got this cheapy 6 cyl starter, that jrhone is running as well. So far, so good. And light!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140740542494

 

If anyone wants what appears to be an original '73 starter, let me know! ;-)

 

Cheers,

 

 

[PaulTWinterton]

15 hours ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Maybe... you should just bring it over and we can put it on the Sun machine.

I live just a little ways south of you. 

 

I may (probably) take you up on that, although it would have to be during our next sunny spell as I MUST drive the tii.  I wouldn't want to waste the trip on a VW Golf DD.  I will PM you soon.  Thanks for the offer.

 

13 hours ago, Einspritz said:

I don't want to be the Buzzkill here, but thought it important to know that the bosch 0231 180 008  is for the 2002 and 2002 Automatic, hence the vacuum pot. The bosch 0231 151 008 is strictly mechanical and was used on the 2002 Ti, the 2002 Tii Euro, and the 2002 Tii USA.

 

Buzz kill indeed!  No offense taken and I feel a little dumb.  Backstory: the engine did not come with a distributor.  It's a 74, so I'm not 100% knowledgable, on the changes made between 73 and 74.  Although I was sure that they used a vacuum (advance or retard) system.  Whatever is determined, I will put the correct distributor on the engine before it's complete.

 

I went to the wrecker with the intent of finding an 008 distributor and I did.  I was surprised.  

 

Now I'm glad this came up. I don't want to waste time or money if it's not correct.  Thanks for the heads up.

[PaulTWinterton]

7 hours ago, jgerock said:

As mentioned above, the distributor isn't correct for a 72/73 tii.  Also, I believe there should be either black rubber or plastic isolators for the plug wire clamps that are on the valve cover bolts.   

 

 

Hi Jim,  it's a 74tii engine, and I will figure out this distributor issue ONCE AND FOR ALL.

 

Do you have pictures or something referring to the insulators?  I have wire clamps on the Inka car but no insulators, just metal.

[PaulTWinterton]

7 hours ago, jgerock said:

Paul- you're doing a beautiful job on this engine!  If it were mine, I would use the smaller E30 M3 starter.

 

Thank you, it is SO MUCH FUN!  

 

As with everything else, I dismantled the starter and inspected all the parts, AFTER I tested it.  This engine is more of a time capsule at the moment.  Just want to refresh as much as I can.  If and when it goes into service I will determine which parts to replace.  Right now I'm just performing autopsies to learn how it was built and how it works.  I have learned so much.

 

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

Oh boy!  A visit will be fun.  I love to run the Sun.

 

Original Owner has a 74tii.  Perhaps he will share his distributor's model #.

It seems to me they did  use vacuum retard... but I may be wrong.

 

Conserve's car had the original blue rubber pads around the wires, where they pass through the clips on the cover.  Same material as the wire wrap.

 

I went to the local hardware store and bought rubber insulated 'conduit clamps' and flattened them to the stock shape(ish).

My originals no longer had the rubber and they'd marred the wires.

 

I also went with 8mm wires from Kingsborne and they were too fat for the stock clips.

I like the look of the clamps I bought, but can appreciate your desire to keep things stOck.

 

" Right now I'm just performing autopsies to learn how it was built and how it works."

(which is what I was suggesting you do with your distributor   )

They are cool little mechanisms and I know you will get a kick out of seeing what's inside.

 

The photos on this thread are awesome.  No wonder it has had 5500 views.

 

[JAS]

36 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

I may (probably) take you up on that, although it would have to be during our next sunny spell as I MUST drive the tii.  I wouldn't want to waste the trip on a VW Golf DD.  I will PM you soon.  Thanks for the offer.

 

 

Buzz kill indeed!  No offense taken and I feel a little dumb.  Backstory: the engine did not come with a distributor.  It's a 74, so I'm not 100% knowledgable, on the changes made between 73 and 74.  Although I was sure that they used a vacuum (advance or retard) system.  Whatever is determined, I will put the correct distributor on the engine before it's complete.

 

I went to the wrecker with the intent of finding an 008 distributor and I did.  I was surprised.  

 

Now I'm glad this came up. I don't want to waste time or money if it's not correct.  Thanks for the heads up.

Great work Paul! I am also impressed that you were able to find an 008 distributor at an autowrecker in Vancouver - just assumed they had no 02 parts left, let alone tii parts.

The correct distributor for the 74 tii is 180013 and that one includes the dashpot which is attached to the decel valve mounted on top of the 74tii air cleaner. Interesting enough, Jeff at Advanced is adamant that the vacuum advance on the 013 hurts performance. He said to plug the vacuum line to the dashpot, set the advance at idle to 12 - 15 degrees BTDC, and then leave it as is. I plan to try it both ways (factory and his) and see if there is much of a difference.

John

[PaulTWinterton]

24 minutes ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

(which is what I was suggesting you do with your distributor   )

They are cool little mechanisms and I know you will get a kick out of seeing what's inside.

 

 

I did!  I also cleaned it and re-greased.  Not sure what I was looking at so I put it back together. 

['76mintgrün'02]

WHAT?!?

No photos?? 

 

Was the 'slippery pad' intact, under the weights?

(I just had that model apart and put some photos/info in my distributor thread).

[PaulTWinterton]

14 minutes ago, JAS said:

The correct distributor for the 74 tii is 180013

 

Oh!  So the 008 is incorrect for that year and it should be an 013?

[PaulTWinterton]

2 minutes ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Was the 'slippery pad' intact, under the weights?

 

What? No, all I saw was the bottom of the housing under the weights.  I know that because it was black and I had to clean it substantially to see metal again.  I didn't remove the weights as that is a little beyond my comfort level.  I thought I'd leave that for Advanced.  Now I'm glad I didn't send it off.

['76mintgrün'02]

Well, since you are not likely to use it, I will understand if you don't want to come all the way down to spin it.  The invitation stands though.

 

There are two pins on the bottom of the center post.  One is long and the other short, so they only go back in one way.  The weights are 'interchangeable' as are the springs, but I like to put things back where they were, because they have worn to 'fit' there.  That model has nice little E-clips holding the weights on, instead of the 'hairpins' that some have.  The hairpins wear through and dig grooves... and stuff.  I found a source for new ones, but they want $5 each for those silly little things.  Anyway, it is really easy to pry up on the center post and overcome the little circlip that keeps it on.  Leave the felt plug in the top, if you do this, or it can pop up and hit you in the face.  It actually stings a little!  If it has too much axial play in the shaft, you can drill into the pin from the little end and push it out.  I just use a 5/32" x 3/4" roll pin as a replacement, which makes it really easy to get back in there.  I usually drill into the pin just as deep as the gear is thick there, then push it out.  Some come out easier than others, they may be ones that someone has been into already.

 

Here is a link to the post where I pulled that one apart.

 

Be careful though.  I find distributors to be a little addictive.

Tom

[Einspritz]

there is a blanking plate that is pressed into the housing where the vacuum pot fitment is, though I don't know where to find one of those!

 

I don't ever recall having seen rubber or plastic isolators on the plug wire "loops", even on new cars, but practicality may be the better way to go. That said, I also never recall seeing those "loops" ever rubbing into the plug wires, even those OE wires with the "hard" outer sheath and even with high mileage.

 

What is more common is the plug insulators cracking over time causing arcing to the head.

 

In those pre-Red Bull / 5 Hour Energy days, I used to grab the insulators for an afternoon "pick me up", now it's just another Coke.

 

Ted

[PaulTWinterton]

19 hours ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Why do you suppose they make the distributor flange gasket with that flap sticking up above the head?

That detail bugged me, so I heated up the tip of an X-Acto knife and bent it over 90 degrees, so I could cut it back to match the castings.

 

I see your distributor flange is dated '76, those are the best ones!  ;- )

 

Re: flange gasket.  Me, I kinda like that it's exposed.  Tells me that it's a virgin gasket.

 

Re: 76 flange.  Another story.  The shop that I bought the engine from had it sitting in a corner for 20+ years.  Over that time it survived a chipped flange, dented oil pan, and broken #1 injection tube.  Who knows how many times it was banged around.  Anyway the shop owner gave me a flange from a 77 320i.