engine and drivetrain My Tii Engine Project. Found An Interesting Part.

[PaulTWinterton]

17 hours ago, jgerock said:

Dab some paint on the KF pulley face adjacent to the notch along with the rib on the plastic lower timing cover and outer crankshaft pulley notches  to make it easier to check the timing.

 

Yellow paint is standing by.  Thanks. 

 

17 hours ago, jgerock said:

 Let me know if you cannot find the torque value for the two KF pump to timing cover bolts.

 

I do need that value.  I thought for sure I had that in my documents.  At the moment those bolts are only at "Gudentite" German torque setting.  Any other injection torque settings that you have would be appreciated.  You can never have too much reference material.

 

17 hours ago, Conserv said:

What's your plan vis-a-vis your car and the original engine?  I'd guess there is no way that you, or I, or anyone on this forum, could do this beautiful rebuild only to let this engine sit in the corner of the garage for 5 years!  Right?  But I also know that you, like I, greatly value our tii's original engines.  So what's the plan?  Install this engine now and save the original engine for....the right time?

 

I don't have a game plan yet, but I am enjoying the conundrum.  Originally, I thought that just building an engine from scratch would fulfill my desire to learn the skills and get experience for when I rebuild my Inka car engine. Then keep it for awhile and maybe steal parts from it or sell it.   But the closer I get to completing this project the bigger the desire to see it running gets.  It does make sense to use this engine while I rebuild my car engine in the future. It's a good problem to have, so for now I'll just keep enjoying the process.

 

Rick Stephenson has been tutoring me on the rebuilding process and adding some tricks of the trade as well.   Example: adding a small chunk of hose to each connecting rod big end bolt as a safeguard before marrying  to the crankshaft makes a lot of sense.  Nicking the crankshaft would be a disaster. 

 

I especially liked massaging the cylinder walls with oil and inserting the pistons.  Nothing weird guys  just as close to performing an organ transplant as I'll ever get.

 

Next step: re-assembling the cylinder head.

 

Cheers.

Edited January 30, 2017 by PaulTWinterton

[saaron]

Jeez that looks awesome.  Great job.  Good Lord it looks good.  

 

I guess in the short term you could put it in your tii while you rebuild the original engine (as is pointed out above).  

 

After that...well...I would start looking for a good shell...or solid 02 w/a bad motor...

 

Scott

[jgerock]

I had a really hard time trying to find the torque value of the (2) bolts that hold the KF pump to the timing cover.  Per my handwritten notes from 11/30/08, I torqued them to 30 ft-lbs.

 

Temp. sensor and time switch: 18 ft-lbs.

Injectors with new copper sealing rings: 30 ft-lbs.

Think the proper torque range for the aluminum KF pulley is 21-28 ft-lbs.

 

The blue book and other manuals show some additional values for the KF pump fittings.

[PaulTWinterton]

1 hour ago, jgerock said:

Per my handwritten notes from 11/30/08, I torqued them to 30 ft-lbs.

 

Temp. sensor and time switch: 18 ft-lbs.

Injectors with new copper sealing rings: 30 ft-lbs.

Think the proper torque range for the aluminum KF pulley is 21-28 ft-lbs.

 

Excellent.  Thank you.

[PaulTWinterton]

Progress.  Got the head back from the machine shop and Rick Stephenson coached me through the assembly steps.  I learned how to lap valves.  I installed my first valve seals.  4 hours later: a complete head again.  Spring compresser is an excellent tool.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 13, 2017 by PaulTWinterton

[PaulTWinterton]

I decided to rebuild the starter.  The worst part was cracking the bolts for the solenoid.  Impact driver required.  Found the guts to be in good shape, brushes have lots of life  in them and the bearing surfaces are smooth and still fit firmly.

 

Bead blasted the casings and repainted/clearcoated with a bit of artistic license.  Solid black is boring.  Everything went back together without too much fiddling and it spins up nicely.

 

Double checked my rod and main bolt torques and fitted the oil pan.

 

Edited February 17, 2017 by PaulTWinterton

[jgerock]

Great stuff Paul.  Isn't it fun!  What assembly lube did you/are you using?

[PaulTWinterton]

I can't begin to tell you how much fun I'm having.  Sometimes I can't stop and all of a sudden it's 1am.

 

I've been using the Lucas product.   I can't believe the consistency.   It's no wonder that they say "it clings to parts". I'm also happy that's it's attributes will allow the engine to sit for a long time before it gets started.  I still don't know when it will get it's first start up. 

 

[mvliotta]

Beautiful work Paul! Your build is a great reference as I clean things up on my car.


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[PaulTWinterton]

More progress...

[jgerock]

Excellent!  Don't forget to bleed the chain tensioner.  I soaked my new tension piston one in some fresh oil before installing it in the front cover - then perform the priming procedure per the Blue book.

[PaulTWinterton]

45 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Excellent!  Don't forget to bleed the chain tensioner.  I soaked my new tension piston one in some fresh oil before installing it in the front cover - then perform the priming procedure per the Blue book.

 

I'm trying to decide when to do that.  As I don't plan to put this engine in a car any time soon, I'm hesitant to fill it with oil until it's being put to use.  I know there is a small reservoir for the tensioner oil but what if the engine is rotated?  But if I wait, then I shouldn't install the upper timing cover until I've burped the tensioner.   Conundrum.  Insight anyone?

 

Side note: I honed-out the chain tensioner bore and polished the piston so it slides nicely.  The piston and spring are in protective custody until I figure out when to install.

[jgerock]

20 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

I'm trying to decide when to do that.  As I don't plan to put this engine in a car any time soon, I'm hesitant to fill it with oil until it's being put to use.  I know there is a small reservoir for the tensioner oil but what if the engine is rotated?  But if I wait, then I shouldn't install the upper timing cover until I've burped the tensioner.   Conundrum.  Insight anyone?

 

Side note: I honed-out the chain tensioner bore and polished the piston so it slides nicely.  The piston and spring are in protective custody until I figure out when to install.

The longer the engine sits, the worse off it will be - especially if it is stored in a humid environment where rust can attack bare metal surfaces.  Even applying a coat of oil will attract dust/fines, etc. and leave particles that will scratch when the engine is put into service.   Maybe try using a thick plastic bag and remove as much air using a Shop Vac then taping it shut may help.   There are lots of on-line tips for storing an engine.  

 

Another thing - leaving a fully assembled engine for long periods of time may create issues with the valve springs being compressed in the same position.  Not sure if that is an old wive's tale.  

[PaulTWinterton]

14 minutes ago, jgerock said:

The longer the engine sits, the worse off it will be - especially if it is stored in a humid environment where rust can attack bare metal surfaces.  Even applying a coat of oil will attract dust/fines, etc. and leave particles that will scratch when the engine is put into service.   Maybe try using a thick plastic bag and remove as much air using a Shop Vac then taping it shut may help.   There are lots of on-line tips for storing an engine.  

 

Another thing - leaving a fully assembled engine for long periods of time may create issues with the valve springs being compressed in the same position.  Not sure if that is an old wive's tale.  

 

I hear ya.  I'm paranoid about humidity so I have Concrobium "moisture grabber XL" bags in the garage to attract the humidity in the room.  They are like giant bean bags that become soft pillows after a few months of absorption.  Plus the garage is part of the house so moisture is less than in a stand-alone garage in our part of the world. 

 

I do plan to keep in covered and sealed and it only makes sense that an engine shouldn't sit unused for too long.  Seals, springs, bare surfaces....it all wants to be lubricated and flexed.  I will check on-line for tips.  Thanks for your tips.

 

 

[jgerock]

22 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

I'm paranoid about humidity

 

My job involves removing moisture from plastic media before it is molded/extruded/blown into the final form.  Company I work for originally made industrial dehumidifiers for mothballed and dry-docked Navy ships in the 50's and 60's.