engine and drivetrain My Tii Engine Project. Found An Interesting Part.

[jgerock]

3 hours ago, John_in_VA said:

 

What is KVH manifold paint?

And why didn't you use the E21 exhaust gasket/plug wire shield?  Do you have the stock metal guard?

[PaulTWinterton]

4 hours ago, John_in_VA said:

 

What is KVH manifold paint?

 

VHT, sorry.

 

[PaulTWinterton]

1 hour ago, jgerock said:

And why didn't you use the E21 exhaust gasket/plug wire shield?  Do you have the stock metal guard?

 

I found an NOS original guard and it's on the way.    As always, I like the originality of the old guard.  What I can't find yet, are the copper M6 x10 bolts.

[ray_]

Number 9?

 

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2583-USA-01-1973-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=11_2399

[PaulTWinterton]

34 minutes ago, ray_ said:

Number 9?

 

Exactly.  I found an Asian supplier with a long delivery time and confusing product pictures.  Not sure if you'd get the right thing.

[PaulTWinterton]

I was told today that the OEM exhaust manifold cover bolts are actually steel and coated with copper.  I always thought they were a copper alloy.

 

I received the NOS shield.  In my years of ownership I've witness 2 shield deaths by corrosion and heat.  Nice to see them when they're new. 

[PaulTWinterton]

More progress.

[PaulTWinterton]

Back to my original post.  I broke the original verboten screw cover.  Boohoo.  So I experimented with 3-D printing.  The best prototype created was in resin. Unfortunately only in transparent green.  The upside is that it "snapped" into place and you can see the nut underneath.

 

I also found another interesting part: the black plastic ignition wire guides.  I always thought the guides were white.  The same as the FI pipe guides.

['76mintgrün'02]

Mmmm, eye candy.

 

May I ask what the model number of your distributor is?

0231 180 008, perhaps?

 

Have you checked the advance curve?

It sure looks pretty! 

 

Tom

[PaulTWinterton]

4 hours ago, '76Mintgrun'02 said:

0231 180 008

 

Yes.  The engine did not come with a distributor but I was lucky and found one at a wrecker complete with a wiring harness.  I scuttled the harness keeping only the rubber ends and guides.  I don't know what the curve is but I'm planning on sending it off to Advanced Distributors anyway.  I want it perfect even though it's tight and looks good inside.

['76mintgrün'02]

If you do send it off to Jeff, I would ask him not to polish the housing.  I have a friend who was a little disappointed that his came back as shiny as it did.  Yours looks perfect as is.  

 

How much of a gap is there between the gear and the body? (or the first washer)

Do you have a timing light with variable advance, by chance?

Maybe it is purrrfect already : )

 

Seeing the way that you work, I think you would really enjoy taking it apart and inspecting it yourself.

I would like to see the photos of what you find inside.

I doubt Jeff would care if you'd been in there.

 

Maybe... you should just bring it over and we can put it on the Sun machine.

I live just a little ways south of you. 

 

Why do you suppose they make the distributor flange gasket with that flap sticking up above the head?

That detail bugged me, so I heated up the tip of an X-Acto knife and bent it over 90 degrees, so I could cut it back to match the castings.

 

I see your distributor flange is dated '76, those are the best ones!  ;- )

[saaron]

Jeff didn't make mine pretty.  Now I feel neglected.  Seriously- holy cow, Paul.  What do you charge for a rebuild...impresssive.

 

Scott

[Einspritz]

Hi, I have been following this post and appreciate your meticulous attention to detail on this Tii engine build.

 

Seeing the distributor with a vacuum pot in your photos really troubled me.

 

I don't want to be the Buzzkill here, but thought it important to know that the bosch 0231 180 008  is for the 2002 and 2002 Automatic, hence the vacuum pot. The bosch 0231 151 008 is strictly mechanical and was used on the 2002 Ti, the 2002 Tii Euro, and the 2002 Tii USA. They have distinctly different curves, the "180" hits its maximum advance at about 1200 rpm (looking at a diagram) and the "151" at 2500 (from the specifications but that depends).

 

And that is critical for properly tuning the Tii, depending on which cam you have in your injection pump,which pistons you have and / or  whether you have the output graphs from when the pump was rebuilt.

 

What isn't in the specification for both the pump and the distributor is Ethanol in our daily  fuel. The fuel density is different, though I don't recall off hand what that number is. In addition, California has two formulations, one for Summer and Winter, each with a different vaporization point and a different tune.........And BMW states that if you have less than 0.4g/l of lead in the fuel, then the setting should be 25 deg. bTDC @ 2900 rpm. presumably to alleviate knock....... your motor would be a slug at that. But I don't know if it applies to you.

 

In the end, what is stamped on the outside really doesn't matter unless those judging a concourse know the difference, its the advance curve that the rebuilder matches to your build and needs.

 

HTH,

 

ted

 

 

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

Well said, Ted.

 

It is common to refer to various Bosch distributor models, using just the last three digits.  For example, the 002 is a mechanical only, the 164 is vacuum advance; but as you point out, there were two models that end in 008; so there is often some confusion.

 

The 0231 180 008 has the vacuum retard pot.  I still do not understand how that feature was beneficial, but we do not need to get into that here, on my account.

 

I snapped a couple photos of the two 008 curves you mentioned; taken from the '73 version of the Blue Book.  It is true that the 180 008 is all-in by 1200 in the graph, but that is distributor rpm, not crank.  

 

The 151 008 mechanical only model is all-in at 1750, or 3500 crank rpm.

 

2 hours ago, Einspritz said:

In the end, what is stamped on the outside really doesn't matter unless those judging a concourse know the difference, its the advance curve that the rebuilder matches to your build and needs.

 

This was my favorite part.

 

Jeff has you fill out a worksheet with details about your specific engine.  He then puts the curve where he thinks it will best suit your needs.  My guess is that he could take that carby distributor and make the curve fit your tii.  You would still need the pot installed, even if you did not use the retard feature; in order to keep the points plate from rotating.  I suppose he could swap in a mechanical only points plate, but you would have that slot in the side of the body to cover.  I will be interested to see what you decide to do.

 

If I was to make a silly suggestion, I'd say send it to him and have him make the curve purrfect for your engine, without using the pot.  

 

Then we can drill a hole through the pot and run a fine threaded screw through it and attach that to a fitting on the pin that the pot attaches to.  Adding a knob to that screw, would then allow you to adjust the timing without having to rotate the distributor body.  We could even add a dial to the pot and a pointer to the knob, so you will know how many degrees you are changing your advance.  That'd be my suggestion.  If I was being silly.

 

Tom

[Simeon]

The Lucas distributor on the A series engine used to have a knurled nut on the outside that allowed the timing to be advanced / retarded by 5 degrees. Another awesome feature that's replicated by the 123 Tune.