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Simeon

Alpina
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About Simeon

  • Birthday 03/17/1973

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  1. I suppose the miles are the same.
  2. Yes it is (assuming that the correct flywheel dowels are in place). BMW varies the engine speed for that given advance to cope with different engines and distributor applications.
  3. If the gauge is pegged with both senders then you have a dead short in your wiring somewhere. Take a good detailed look at the terminals at the top of the tank. Any chance of the wires or crimp terminals touching the top of the tank? Having disturbed the wiring at the tank, this is the most likely site but the short could be anywhere along the wire from the tank to the gauge. Probably a good idea to eyeball the wiring loom from rear to front to look for any obvious issues.
  4. Without doubt there will be an absolute difference in terms of maximum air flow between the stock manifold and a literal 38mm x 38mm inlet throat. The problem is that this is marginal and is only possibly relevant at 100% wide open throttle. There are three positions: stock (undersized), machined out to 38/38 and hogged out ‘peanut style’ with a large single opening underneath the carb. With each increase in flow you will see a massive decrease in air velocity. This has a big effect on drive ability pushing peak power away from normal set-ups. I doubt you would be able to determine the difference between a stock manifold and a manifold cut or hogged in any way.
  5. The meta comment here is that you don’t need to hog the manifold out (but not trying to swing this thread in this direction). If you want to do it then you can hog it in place with the precautions that you have discussed. Overall, I would really try and get your manifold off because you will need to overcome this hurdle when you go to side drafts 🤣
  6. In theory you are correct, certainly 123 tell you to set static based on when the green light comes on. The reality for me is that I am a butter fingers and getting something like that right is an impossibility. It then makes sense to have a point on your curve that corresponds to the ball (25 degrees BTDC) at a known engine speed. That way you can dial up that speed and shoot for the ball with your lamp and adjust accordingly. This will dial out any inaccuracies that were put there during installation and give you confidence that the timing it shows on the app is correct. You probably know this already ready but you can’t use a standard ‘advance’ timing light with an MSD. The multiple sparks confuse it. You need to stick with a plain Jane fixed advance light so that’s why the ball is useful.
  7. One of the ‘on’ directions would be the setting for turning on the light when the door is open. The door switches are based on switching a connection to ground to the wire and therefore the lights being always on indicates a short in the wiring. First step is to remove each door switch in turn and examine. You are looking for a means that the wire is permanently in contact with the body. If this isn’t obvious at the switches, take a look at the light fitting. You may find that something inside the light fitting is contacting the body and providing a permanent path to ground for the light.
  8. ‘Lowered’ springs will typically not stay in the cups when the suspension is at full droop. Your mechanic not knowing and understanding this reveals a lot about how often he has done this job. I would strongly suspect, as do others, that he has managed to get the installation order of the washers wrong. This binds the top of the strut to the top spring cup which then means the spring is literally being fought against when steering (or you have to overcome some steel on steel contact between the cup and the strut bearing).
  9. Start a blog on here and record your work. Imagine selling your car and providing someone with a link to an expansive blog documenting what you have done and why.
  10. 34.9 mpg! Was your fuel pump working?
  11. What did the e21 do about emissions (in the US) if they didn’t have the thermal reactor, thus allowing the combined gasket heat shield? Did all of that disappear again with the advent of CIS fuel injection?
  12. You know, I feel exactly the same as you plus it’s worse for me as I want A/C. Solution: go console delete with a small under dash housing for a stereo head unit (or put that in the glovebox for an ultra clean look). Search up some pictures, it looks awesome. The A/C then goes in the trunk and I have uninterrupted dash beauty without what looks like a badly home made console, even stock and fresh from the factory. The Koogleworks stuff is definitely top notch though and is the best way of producing a better console than BMW managed. It is what I would do if I wasn’t going with a console delete.
  13. When I saw ‘plug gapping tool’ I assumed you meant one of these. As for the oil filter, I have not had one yet that I couldn’t undo with clean hands only.
  14. Did you have the exhaust down pipe off the car when doing the guibo work? When reinstalling did you tighten the flanges at each end before fitting and adjusting the transmission hanger? If you tighten that bracket before securing the rear downpipe flange it can tension the down pipe and cause drumming.
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