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About Simeon

  • Birthday 03/17/1973

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  1. That’s what I think. Whenever you get the symptoms described with engine running/ not running I would blame the clutch.
  2. Some people have had some luck replacing the resistance wire recently. There will be posts on that turn up with search. Rogerstii are selling this. It’s worth checking against the depth of your tank / sender though. http://www.rogerstii.com/bmw-2002tii-european-fuel-sending-unit/ Other than that, a Want To Buy ad on this board is a good way to seek a second hand replacement.
  3. Not a lot. I am just back from a 5 week trip around Europe so watching my pennies at the moment. I have all of the ‘under hood’ equipment to slowly install while I save up for the ‘indoor’ equipment. I have completed the majority of the wiring for the auxiliary fan, compressor and trinary switch along with a feed for a new fuse box to go under the rear seat (this will power the A/C evaporator fan amongst other goodies). I have also assembled the SPAL 12” fan to the condenser using some aluminium sections, pop rivets and bolts. I have a couple of coincidental jobs requiring the cooling system to be drained (including rebuilding the heater box) so I will install the condenser across the radiator opening using some rubber stand off mountings that I have bought
  4. Isn’t the solenoid valve specifically designed to be used on the 32/36 or other progressive choke carb? The 38/38 has two idle jets and they would both need to be isolated as they are both in play at idle. If you only isolate one, the engine will idle on the other.
  5. Just use the replacement. Looks good.
  6. Don’t go with the Canon manifold. Work with what you have and save $$
  7. If it is just the flat steel sections of the trunk floor, I would patch what you have rather than the effort of changing out the whole floor.
  8. If these fans are there to provide auxiliary cooling for air conditioning then they need, primarily, to be controlled by the air conditioning system. This can be either using the switched supply that cycles the compressor clutch on and off to energise a relay to control the fan or use a ‘trinary’ switch to control the fan based upon system pressure (and therefore heat since the pressure is proportional to the heat within the refrigerant). If you are removing your mechanical fan as well then you can add a thermo switch as described above in parallel to however the A/C switches the fan.
  9. Very nice work. That is a rusty one but it looks in good hands. Check back further as you go.
  10. The synch link itself is an aftermarket part but, Ie not from Weber who just made synchronised carbs if they fancied it. That being said, the parts may well be available from any good carb part supplier and the dual accelerator pump is a factory part as you point out.
  11. Just remember that the US cars are the ones that are mostly fitted with the ballast resistance ignition so you are looking for a coil with a primary resistance if about 3 ohms.
  12. What’s wrong with Superlites? https://www.performancewheels.com.au/product/superlite-15/ Is it the ‘minilite’ style you want?

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