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PaulTWinterton

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Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. Out with the old dash, Dec 2020. In with the new. A job that was expected to take 2 weeks ended up taking 6 months. Life got in the way. Being a Canadian import my car has a few instances of German language labels. Decided to make my car a little more "euro". No switch labels, icons added (thx Mo), seatbelt sign deleted For those with the eagle-eye, the clock is my DD (from Vintage Autobahn), my (working) Kiensle is in the archives with my stock steering wheel and steelies.
  2. 1. Take pictures of your parts. If possible set your cam/phone to a lower/mid resolution. High rez pictures use a lot of megabytes and cause issues with slower load times and storage limits. Plus high rez just isn't needed. 2. If you are on a computer, open the folder where the pictures live. Pick a file or files that you want in the post and drag them to the bar below your post where there is a paperclip. 3. Once the pictures are in that location you can add (+) them to the post or delete them (trashcan) if they are not correct. Make sure your cursor is in the right spot before you add (+) them to your post, or they could end up in the middle of a sentence. I hope that's not too cryptic. ,,,and welcome.
  3. Sorry, misunderstood the name. Mistaken for the other "switch". Get your money back or a replacement?
  4. That module relies on the sensor in the water splitter at the front of the engine. If the sensor doesn't cut out I don't think the module or injector will stop either. Have you tested that sensor?
  5. Ticking is the first sign of speedo failure, IIRC. It might be some interference in the odometer path. Lots of info in previous threads. Good luck.
  6. I think what Esty means is "welcome and please post pictures". ?
  7. I can't believe that 9 posts didn't prompt a post recommending LED signals, brakes and running lights. Poor illumination has caused many rear enders. The very best taillight solution is classicautoleds.com Pricey but AWESOME. Front corners, look at Sirius leds. Double the output of all competitors. KG Series.
  8. I've cherished my covers for over 30 years and keep them secure when the bumper is off the car. Too valuable to lose. Thanks for the heads up. Nice to know there's a source. I have pondered making a reproduction but injection molding requires high volumes and 3D printing is too slow and demands a high selling price. Another idea is to cut and assemble a number of rubber pieces with rubber glue to replicate the original. Rubber "cement" works very well, although not original. Still, it may be the best alternative as only the top surface is visible. If a person made 100 sets + you could sell them easily and at a reasonable price. @esty?
  9. Woah, back up the angry train. @bmw_e30has been a member here for a very long time and is selling nothing. A possibly unclear message is no reason to get ugly. I presume this thread is done anyway. Carry on. ✌
  10. @Conserv Ok, so the 2pc began in April 71, but there were 2 versions. Right? I have a Euro version. Euro has no labels for switches or a Fasten Seatbelt sign. Export having English labels and a Fasten Seatbelt sign. I'm converting to the euro dash as my Canadian imported car has German heater control labels. The factory used an export dash otherwise.
  11. BumperSlotPlug1.STL SEATRAIL Cap_RearLeft_v18_good.STL SEATRAIL Cap_RearRight_v19_good.STL
  12. @stephersinstalled a set that you'd think were OE. An excellent solution.
  13. A very slack oil pump chain sets up a loud rattle that can be clearly heard through the grill and radiator, especially on deceleration.
  14. Try World Upholstery or Maxmillian Importing.
  15. What about the lever on the back of the pump. Does it rotate, causing the rpm increase?
  16. Sounds like one of your linkage pieces is not connected properly. Is your intermediate shaft pinch bolt secure? The only way your rpm can increase is if your pump delivers more fuel. The lever on the pump must move.
  17. Bead blasting is perfect for aluminum. Sand (crushed glass) is TOO abrasive unless you are removing paint. Glass beads clean and smooth the surface. Vapor media is very fine and overkill for large surfaces, IMHO. Vapor is fantastic for carbs, throttle bodies and small functional parts.
  18. Interesting. You'd think they would offer great finishes and quality. If it were me, I'd consider clearcoat PC only. Otherwise I'd bead-blast and spray clearcoat. Glossy aluminum finish is the best for that style of wheel, IMHO.
  19. 188hp WOW. Inspected and serviced by an FAQ master. It doesn't get better than that. I think Polaris is my new favorite Turbo color.
  20. What I've seen is a 1/4" gap at the bottom of the AM doors after installation. OEM doors fit properly at at the bottom. That would make me crazy.
  21. Don't sell them. A bodyman might tell you it's cheaper to replace the door than to fix yours. OEM doors are superior, I'm told.
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