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Crash513

Solex
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About Crash513

  • Birthday 05/13/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, Skiing, Family

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  1. I have two: One comple with base and lead. A little crusty and slightly bent, but should clean up with a little 000 steel wool. $35 plus shipping. One complete with upper mast clip, screw and metal turret for base, but no plastic base piece or lead. A little cleaner and straight. $40 plus shipping. These are both turret mount so may require drilling as shown on box if your car didn't have this style before. Your choice or $70 plus shipping for everything.
  2. Thank you, Mike. Once I finally got the bracket to frame bolts aligned and tightened down, I did end up dinking around with the bolts that hold the bumper to the brackets to get the alignment fine tuned. It is all pretty much parallel to the ground, but miraculously also level under the grill. I think that was sheer luck because I wasn't really looking at that alignment. I did buy the fastener kit that came with the necessary rubber spacers. But I opted for nylon locking nuts to hold them in place. So I should be able to leave a little slack at the carriage bolt to safeguard against damage to the fender as you suggested. Interestingly, the original passenger front fender on my car had exactly that damage and the bumper end had been bent from what must have been a very similar accident that the PO had. Anyway, great tip... thank you! Cheers, Crash.
  3. Thank you, Bill. The side by side picture really helps. As it turns out, there is a '72 in the shop where I'm reassembling my car and I got a chance to look at it over the weekend and see that the mounting design is COMPLETELY different. I had purchased the fastener full fastener kits for both my front and rear bumpers. When I reassembled them, I found the end bolts for the fenders were long enough, but surprisingly the long bolts for the (supposed to be M8x100) were too short. I had to source those locally. Everything else in the kit seemed to work just fine. I took a few pics when I was putting things back together, so when you get your bumpers back, PM me if you need any help. Thanks again. Crash
  4. Well they we're cranking a lot of them them out at the time right? Thanks for the advice. This helps put my mind at ease!
  5. I'm finally re-mounting my nicely re-chromed front bumper (thank you Dave Varco) to my resprayed 1973 tii. These are the original "triangle" shaped '73 style bumper mounts, using the original bolts that were on the car when it was disassembled. Both front fenders are NOS stock BMW replacements were installed when the body work was done. So I'm now trying to get the bumper lined up perfectly to mark and drill the fender mount bolts that slide into the bumper ends. Everything has gone together fine, and I was able to get the bumper to where it seems like it's aligned perfectly. It's sitting parallel to the the ground, and the bumper ends are equidistant to the fenders on both sides (~3/8"). The part that seems strange is the angle I had to shift the bumper mounts to (high in the front, low in the back) to get the bumper to line up correctly. I'm just trying to figure out if this is normal or if maybe I missed something in the reassembly. Any advice is much appreciated! Thanks, Crash
  6. I just bought a pair from Rogers tii. They were not cheap, but they are the OEM part and worked perfectly.
  7. Like everyone else, I'm hoping the cost will be reasonable too. I sure don't need to spend any more money than I already am on my resto project.🙂 But when you consider what a good crack free used dash is going for these days, or even a leather or vinyl covered one, I don't think $1k is crazy. One thing for sure is that they will certainly have the economies of scale working for them!
  8. Hopefully you can find one from Wallothnesch. I just replaced mine which I ordered from Maximillian a few months ago, when they were generally available. It was partially folded a few spots into a big loop and packaged nicely in a box with the BMW part number tag wired thru one of the overrider bolt holes. It did not sustain any damage being packed and shipped this way, and once unfolded attached to my re-chromed bumper with no real drama. Two things I learned about installing this strip. First off there is a US version that comes with the holes drilled in it for the overriders. The euro version is different. Secondly, I found it helped to buy the T-bolts and use washer any washers and nylon locking nuts to secure the strip. The T-clips work fine, but once you clip them down, you can't really move the strip left and right at all. I found it easier to partially attach the bolts and leave them loose enough to adjust the strip and before tightening it down. Good luck!
  9. Very helpful to have this. Thank you for scanning and posting it!
  10. I may be a bit of a promiscuous shopper. But over the last 3 years I have purchased LOTS of parts from Ireland, Blunttech, Maximillian, and indeed a bunch of stuff from Rogers. I wouldn't say I don't care about price, but I'm usually buying what I need from whoever has it when I need it and price is secondary. I've had great experience with all of these sellers, and I can say I've never had the slightest problem with Rogers. I've had the wrong parts shipped due to my own error, and I've parts that arrived defective. In each case, I had no problem getting a prompt return, replacement, or refund. So no customer service problems of any kind. I will continue to use Rogers and to recommend them. BTW, I just have to say that considering how old our cars are, it's pretty great that we have so many trusted suppliers for parts for them. How cool is it that we have other suppliers who are also 2020 hobbyists that we can turn to for advice and the parts we need? Makes me happy anyway...
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