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About Crash513

  • Birthday 05/13/1961

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  1. Not to be a smart alec, but this is one of the reasons I put hydraulic struts in place of the torsion bar on my hood. You still have to get the alignment right of course, but I am very happy with the result and don't miss the torsion bar and hinge struts. 20200307_203628.mp4 20200307_203636.mp4
  2. More BaT porn... wicked! But I do home that "no tii's were harmed during the building of this M2". I suppose we all can think of a few things we would have done differently, but if it was made using the Aardvarc recipe, it's got to be a tasty dish. that garage, though? There is a fine line between "dealer" and "hoarder". 😵
  3. It's totally counterfeiting, but I found some Alpina stickers online for my Rota Alpina replica wheels. They are high quality and stuck fine to the Rota center caps, so I'm happy with them. If I had decided on a BMW logo, I probably would have gone with the OEM part. Cool looking wheel, BTW!
  4. GC-CA: I am glad your clock rebuild came out so good. I wasn't surprised at the price either...You have to pay for quality work on a precision instrument. But I was disappointed to hear that PA Speedo does not work on 2002 instrument clusters. I called today to make an inquiry on having mine gone thru and having LED lights added to it and Hartmut referred me elsewhere. I've also talked to Buz at Seattle Speedo and he's willing to take the project on, so I think I'm going try him for this job. Anyway, glad your clock turned out great!
  5. Wow... the tii of 5 series sedans. What a cool setup! And those headlight wipers!
  6. Thanks all for the advice! I've decided to just go ahead and tuck the old wires back under the new sound deadening and carpet. I may never have a need to reconnect these wires again, but who knows what my grand-kids may decide 50 years from now during the next restoration. 😁
  7. AceAndrew - I did a search but could not find anything current on this. Sorry if I missed it!
  8. Thanks all for the advice! Really helps to get different perspectives. I'm going do discuss with my restoration partner before deciding how far to go with cleaning it up. I probably won't end up doing a full removal, but even before doing a thorough cleaning I will surely take the time to do a very careful inspection and dig into any suspect areas first. I'd rather find and fix any hiding surface rust areas now than regret not doing it later. Thanks again all! - Crash
  9. Hi everyone: I'm in the process of replacing the carpet as part of the restoration of my 1973 tii. My car came factory with the "Fasten Seat Belt" warning light pod on the dash (which is still there) and the buzzer to warn passengers to buckle up. I was planning on pulling out all this wiring and just leaving the wires for the backup light that go under the floorboard and into the shifter. But my restoration partner (who has restored dozens of 2002's) has suggested we just leave it there and lay the new carpet down over it to avoid creating any problems. My car has wires that run to both L and R front seats, as well as a set of wires that run toward the back that appear to be intended to connect to the L and R shoulder harnesses on the"B" pillar. The prior owner disconnected these from their intended connection points when the car was last restored in 1990, but they left the wiring behind at that time. What experiences have any of you had in disconnecting these wires and pulling them out of the car entirely? If I want to do this, where should they be disconnected or cut? Any suggestions on how to best address this are much appreciated. Thanks all, Crash
  10. Hi all. I've just reached the interior stage of restoring my '73 tii. I've pulled the seats and just took out the ratty old carpet, which was installed when the car was last restored in 1990. In fairness, the stuff held up pretty well, but it's about as decomposed and nasty as you would expect after 30 years. Underneath the old carpet, I've encountered the usual sticky mess of old contact cement, decomposed jute padding, dirt, filth, and what appears to be one remarkably petrified McDonald's french fry. I've vacuumed it pretty thoroughly, but as you can imagine there is still a lot of sticky gunk left behind. My restoration partner (who has rebuilt countless 2002's) is advocating that we just wire brush the floors to break off any remaining loose pieces, then just lay down the new sound deadening and carpet kit. This is a well cared for California car that had remarkably little surface rust during the body work and respray operations. So I'm not sure it makes sense to take everything down to bare metal before we do. I'm not opposed to doing this to keep it simple, but I'm interested in anyone's opinion about taking a more aggressive approach to cleaning the floor panels before laying down the new sod. What I'm wondering specifically is: Is it better to leave the existing factory tar in place, or is it necessary (or just better) to go all the way down to bare metal? What method is best for doing a general cleanup of the surface if I don't go down to bare metal (what methods, tools and cleaners have people used for this)? How important is it to go over the surfaces with a household cleaner (I'm thinking about Pine-Sol or Dawn with some bleach)? My car does't stink, but it just seems like a good idea Very interested in hearing any ideas and best practices, especially from anyone who has done multiple carpet replacements. TIA, Crash
  11. "Yeah, but how many guys can you fool in a 911?" - Best line from any C/D article ever, IMHO. Thanks for sharing this amazing piece of history. Made my day!
  12. I'll vouch for conkitchen too. Not only a great contributor but a nice guy who is willing to unselfishly help other forum members. Oh, and yea, he's funny too. - Crash
  13. Would this be of any interest? S14 manifold complete with O2 sensor.
  14. Thanks all! I'd much prefer stainless for this, so I think I'll order the Belmetric ones. I'm sure they will be better quality than what I can buy locally. Not to mention better than the OEM screws. Appreciate the help! Crash
  15. I'm in the process of re-fitting front turn signals after a respray. My original screws were bagged during disassembly, but of course seem to have mysteriously gone missing. I've managed to find new drain grommets and gaskets, but now I can't figure out how to replace the missing screws I need. In reviewing the RealOEM site, here is what's listed (item #8 in the diagram): 07509064402 Set csk. lenshead screw 20 ST3,9X19 This PN shows up as NLA. Does anyone know if there is a genuine BMW part number that supersedes this one? Alternatively, can anyone advise what replacement screws they have used and from where they were sourced? I'm not trying to buy the BMW part in an effort to maintain orignality, so any good stainless alternative would be fine. I would appreciate any advice or insights on this. Thanks all! Crash
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