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Stein-man

Kugelfischer
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  1. Still looking for this weird harness. I bought the terminal blocks and round female terminals (thanks, Fjord!). I figured most people threw these in the spare parts bins when they bought their cars, maybe they threw this harness in the round file! Anything helps, thanks! - Rob
  2. Hi, Danny Q - I am here at 4604 Sunshine Canyon, Boulder, CO 80302. I didn't hear an amount that you want or how to get it to you! 😉 - Rob
  3. Hi, Danny - I'll take it, if only for the boots! You tell me how much! - Rob in Boulder
  4. Mike - On your suggestion, I verified my TDC mark (it was within 1/4 or a mark of dead on), and also that my 14 degrees BTDC mark was on (it was). The MFI pump is within a 1/4 of a tooth of on it, I call it "on it". Mark - I have been in conversation with the engine vendor. It's a guy that likes to talk, so I just let him go and inevitably glean some good stuff from the conversation. Ray - I am running Bosch WR6DCs. GWB - Good call, I capped it off with no improvement, so the hose has been exonerated. Paul W, and All - Well, after pulling the plugs, verifying all my marks, verifying MFI pump timing, resetting the ignition timing, setting the WUR back to stock, I started it up and it ran like a champ at 3000 rpms. After some fiddling to get the idle down, I soon realized that my 5th injector was continuing to spray a minor amount, so I unplugged it - idle immediately went to 2000 rpms. I fiddled with the idle speed and mixture screw for a bit. On your suggestion, Mister Winterton, I messed with the v-screw, throttle stop and mixture screw to get a pretty nice 1000 rpm idle, all bangers working together for a change - oh, my what a relief. Where the v-screw "used to be" has been lost to the sands of time, but when my AFR getup gets here, I will know lots more. I can actually take a drive with an AFR gauge in my car. At some point, I will mark and lock the v-screw down. Running like a charm, I dare say (without taking a road test - impending big rainstorm here)! I have no idea what is different today.
  5. Mike - Easy to do, I will re-check tomorrow. - Rob
  6. OK, we are down for O2 bung install and waiting for my AEM gauge, wiring, and sensor. Will report back! - Rob
  7. D, GRacer - I am still trying to get cold start and warm-up. I am miles away from messing with the v-screw. Ray - I put a cork in the vacuum port for the brake booster - no dice. Also, I re-checked the intake tubes for presence of the o-ring. All good there. All - Well, I made it cold start and warm up, though not all that happy below 1500. Sticking with the "too lean" school of thought, I screwed down the WUR top hat nut until it pretty much pinned the auxiliary fuel lever. At least I can put my O2 sensor in the exhaust now and see how lean (maybe rich) I am. - Rob
  8. Friends and fellow FAQ'ers - Here's what I know: - Metric Mechanic rebuilt my engine to a 2200. Jim put an enrichening getup on the pump for additional fueling at 7/8 to WOT. Adjusting this will take the place of tweaking the verboten screw. - H&R Fuel injection rebuilt the MFI pump. - I had the distributor reworked by Advanced Distributors in Shakopee, MN. Jeff suggests static timing it at 15 BTDC, which has been done. I created a TDC mark using a TDC indicator that screws into the #1 plug hole. It's within 1 degree or less of dead on. A little geometry gave me where the 15 BTDC mark should be, and it is also marked on my crank pulley. Let's say it's not the distributor. My plug wires are new. My coil is new. - I can make it run continuously after startup, but it takes working the pedal, "hunting" is the best description for low rev-range performance. It's clearly not happy running at all. - I went through some effort before I figured out that my "new" temp/time sensor was bad. Subbing in a new one made the 5th injector behave like it should. - Now, here's the pattern: when I start the engine, it runs great for the 1.5 second period when the 5th is squirting. After this the engine dies. Seems to run great over 2500 rpms. Idling has eluded me. - I have verified that the WUR does indeed flow air when cold, and also that it tapers it off and stops air flowing when the rod comes out somewhere near it's 10mm full extension. I have made the WUR richer in steps and made it leaner in steps. Nothing seems to change the start up behavior. Let's say it's not the WUR. - I have increased the back pressure in the MFI pump, to no avail. Wes Ingram says put it back to stock, which I have done, that's not your problem. The filter on the front of the MFI pump was perfectly clean when I took it off for inspection. - I have an actual Tii fuel pump circulating fuel to the engine and back. - All this experimentation has taken place with the tuna can screws adjusted per the shop manual. Looking for some ideas here, any idea. Thank you! - Rob
  9. Well, I put an .080" shim under the spring, put it back together, and . . . still "hunting" and won't idle. Hmm - onto the next wild goose! - Rob
  10. Jim K - There is an enrichening getup on the pump for richer WOT fueling, otherwise nothing special for other rev ranges. Paul - Oh, my, it was good to see your post. All I need to know is how long that 36 psi spring is. Let me know! Also, thanks for the advice about tuning. At this point, I can't even get the car to start and run. Marty - I pinned my 40 psi gauge testing fuel pressure, so I don't know what it is. Let's see, "manufacture" a shim for under the spring, or stretch is as Paul W says? - Rob
  11. Does anyone smarter than I am about this know if there is a part missing?
  12. Hi, Jim - Not sure what "trimmed" means. Can you speak further about this? Thanks, Jim! - Rob
  13. When I start the Tii up, the 5th injector does it's job, and the car fires right up. After about 1.5 seconds the 5th injector stops, and the car dies. I have tweaked the WUR to run richer in steps - no change, and leaner in steps - no change. Thusly, my problem doesn't lie in the WUR. On a whim, I put some small visegrips on the return line - the car fired right up and continued to run, a condition I haven't been able to achieve in the two weeks that I have been wrestling with this. On the back of the pump, where the return line goes to the tank, there is a fitting with a restrictor or check valve. I popped out the microscopic snap ring and have extracted the guts. I'm not sure that everything is in there, since I have never seen one before. The spring goes back in first, followed by the "relief plug" for lack of a better word, then the microscopic snap ring. Am I missing anything? Can I shim the spring to make it stronger against the relief plug? What should I do with this latest data point? - Rob
  14. Phil and GWB - I have been focusing on the WUR. I had sent the pump out for calibration and cleaning at H&R, who does lots of 230/280SL K-fisch pumps. I *presume* they as least looked over the WUR. I took off the throttle body and unhooked the plenum end of the air enrichment hose. I sucked on it, and when cold, air does indeed flow through it. With a screwdriver, I raised up the preheater to operating height, while flowing air through the WUR. It does indeed stop air from flowing when hot. Since the motor is a 2200cc,, I decided that it needed more enrichment than called for in the factory manual. So, I gradually screwed down the washer/nut and tried to start the car. Same as before - starts great with the 5th injector, then dies after 1 second. So I went the other way. I set it to factory cold clearance, then put on another 1/2 turn of height on the nut, so the clearance is around 3mm cold. Lo, and behold, it started and continued to run, though at 2800 rpms. While running, I quickly backed off the throttle screw until it cleared the D-cam and backed off the mixture screw until it gave clearance. I think I have to reduce *slowly* the amount of fuel that enters the engine from the WUR until the idle comes down a bit, then dial back the throttle stop and mixture screw. Now I have to also wait for a cord that I lost for my Zeitronix AFR meter getup. (BTW, miserable customer service there) After calling for two days and sending two emails, on my 12th call to them I got an unpleasant gent who ultimately guided me to the correct cord on their site).
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