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PaulTWinterton

Solex
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Everything posted by PaulTWinterton

  1. Tell me about it! I'm suffering from severe Sciatica at the moment... probably from installing my new dash. I may need that as well. Thx for the offer.
  2. I'm sure you are right but I will replace the lines if they show any signs of moisture or degradation. I just like the fresh woven lines on the engine. BMW was stamped on the original FI.clamps.
  3. You only need to remove the steering wheel, the upper and lower pads and fascia under the column. The switch harness and bolts are easily accessible for removal.. IMHO, I think the flasher "pulse" rate is a function of the flasher unit. Mine is slower than the original but acceptable. It too is the LED equivalent flasher to work with front and rear LED arrays. Do a search in this forum for discussions about LEDs to find recommended flashers with a ground wire. I think mine is a NAPA EL13"a". Might be as easy as trying a different brand of flasher.
  4. Mine are starting to show their age, as well. For those unfamiliar:
  5. I believe fuel-injection clamps are correct. From the tank to the cold start. (Also cloth-covered hoses from filter to cold start, because that's what they did. ?)
  6. The rubber is simply held on by the large tabs underneath. Your picture shows the correct overrider for the 73.
  7. If it were me, I'd just tighten the bolts to their torque value, maybe with blue locktite for peace of mind. I doubt you'll get rust inside the bellhousing, so no need for anti-seize IMHO.
  8. At first glance mine has separate spade connectors on the back of the stalk. I haven't looked at the junction to car's harness.
  9. I'll post this picture again. If memory serves, it looks like it goes into #5 as per your diagram. I spliced it into my 73 cluster plug for the brake warning light. You are correct in assuming the wire is hot. It's hot when the ignition is on and the handbrake is active OR if the hydraulic fluid reservoir is low on fluid.
  10. No. Knockoffs. Western wheels. A defunct US company from back in the day that copied everyone. Or at least they did their own version of many popular wheels. This particular style uses shank bolts.
  11. Good price. I had one of those and sent it to Advanced Distributors for restoration. Came back "beautiful". Obviously mechanical advance.
  12. Hey! I have those wheels. Don't see them very often.
  13. Consider Pirelli CN36s from Longstone Tyres. Great period correct rubber. Free worldwide delivery. A few of us here love them.
  14. For some reason I have an early high beam stalk on the left side of my steering column. Being a 73, I believe it should be the larger knob, with or without a graphic, I'm not sure. Can someone help me confirm what I need and if it's readily available as a used part or is it a rare item? RealOEM has it listed as "Dip control switch #61311352949. ENDED. Hey! Maybe it's a swap. Surely someone with an earlier car needs a correct stalk. Once I get more input I will list under WTB (or swap) if necessary.
  15. Great product! Way better than the OEM version, less expensive, includes hardware, plated and is correct for early bumpers.
  16. If you can move it one inch it's likely missing the nuts. Tip the top down slightly to slide the pod out. Hope that helps. A mirror might work to confirm that the nuts are indeed missing.
  17. I think you need to post pictures to show the problem. Make the hole bigger?
  18. We need a "Love" button! Like just doesn't do it.
  19. That sounds suspect. Should be closer to 3 o'clock. Stock or modified cooling system?
  20. The light on the dash also reminds you that the fluid level in the reservoir is low. I believe this to be true on the 74-76 cars, although I'm not 100% sure. I would check the reservoir to make sure the wires are intact and the fluid level is up.
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