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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

EPK

Kugelfischer
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  1. Hood gasket sets

    @kmoy2002, I was planning to post a report myself as mine arrived yesterday. I installed them last night and they are very good quality. I have zero regrets and they arrived really fast here in North Carolina. My car is strictly driver quality. It's mechanically sound but won't win any beauty contests. Despite that, it needed these badly. I am looking forward to taking a drive today before I eat too much and lapse into a food coma. Happy Thanksgiving everyone and thank you @VintageAutobahn for a quality product.
  2. As has been stated, you need to do so from underneath. Once everything else is removed, it's rather straightforward and not that difficult. It's just a bit of a pain to remove stuff that's in the way.
  3. @Simeon Thank you for that link as well as the "hint" on wiring. The fact that you took the time to make a seemingly innocuous comment saved my butt.
  4. @'76mintgrun'02 Thank you!!! I just ordered the wiring diagram. I had no idea those were available or I would have bought one years ago. On the other hand, I hope that it collects dust I will now look into the manual.
  5. It's running and yes it's very early here. I read @Simeon's comment and knew that had to be the issue. I feel like a fool and it took me a while to find it but I did. I removed this distributor almost 2 years ago. So, I don't remember much about doing so. When Simeon commented that the wire should be black, the scavenger hunt began. I couldn't see any other wires at the firewall that were terminated near the distributor. I had to pull them all out from behind the tabs to find it. It was tucked away behind everything and further towards the driver's side. Yes, the black wire that should have been going to the condensor all along works just fine. I wasted countless hours on this along with everyone else's time as well. I feel badly about that. I did learn a lot about troubleshooting in the process. One of my big problems is that I don't have a wiring diagram. I have tidbits of stuff but nothing like what I have for the British stuff. Where does everyone source this? I would love to laminate an enlarged version. It would make things a whole lot easier. I also need recommendations for a good manual. The one I have is nearly as old as the car, torn, faded and seems to provide different information from the "factory" manual like points gap. Thank you to everyone and please forgive my mistake.
  6. @torquewrench80 and @Healey3000 I will try your suggestions and report back to you but it's going to be tomorrow as I have family commitments and can't get to the car. As far as making mistakes, I'm not offended and frankly hope that's what happened. I'm no expert and I'm grateful that everyone has taken so much time to help. I've been working on old cars for about 10 years but I'm self taught and have made plenty of mistakes. Each one is an opportunity to learn. Every time I put an engine back together, I hold my breath. While meticulous, I'm human and learning as I go and this car is completely new as all my other cars were British. Don't hold that against me Two quick questions along those lines. 1. @torquewrench80 : you mention that I may have put it together wrong. I'm dealing with only 3 wires. One at the firewall which connects to the condensor. I think it was green and brown but can't verify at the moment. The other two wires are at the coil. Should I have continuity to that green/brown wire from both coil wires? If so, that's a problem as only one has continuity and it's the same one that gets 12v when the key is on. 2. When I insert the distributor, I do so that the rotor rotates to point at the notch in the distributor body once inserted. This notch is the big gap that the cap uses to avoid rotating. Is this correct? This means that I start by putting the rotor counterclockwise from this position because it rotates clockwise per the old generic manual. Upon doing so, you are exactly splitting the difference between two spark plug leads on the distributor. So, which one would you make the #1 lead? Counterclockwise lead or clockwise? My assumption is that you want some advance spark but please clarify. Maybe I'm so far out that I can't get spark. That could also cause my problem. I just keep thinking that it has to be simple. I will try everything and report back tomorrow.
  7. @torquewrench80 Here's how far I made it: Probe on - side of coil, cranking engine and the light stays on. - I don't think the wires are connected wrong. I am attaching the wire that displays 12v with key on, to the + side of coil. I tried reversing wires for the heck of it as well. - I don't think the points are failing to open either as I turned the distibutor shaft by hand prior to installation and they open and close. I checked the gap as well (.016). - I don't think there's a break in that wire and here's how I tested that. I disconnected the wire from the condensor and the wire from the + side of coil and checked for continuity using the ohm meter. It goes to zero so there shouldn't be a break. The - side of coil has no continuity to the condensor wire. - Distributor not grounded : I can only imagine that this is the case. It would explain my issues for sure and although, as stated earlier, the ground wire doesn't appear broken it could be hard to detect. These distributors unfortunately don't have a separate ground like many that I've seen and instead rely on that little ground wire inside going to the body. If that's correct, I need to fix it this week in order to make my rally and I'm not sure how to do that on my own. Jeff Schlemmer usually has a long wait and I don't expect him to expedite this for me. Thoughts? Did I miscalculate somewhere?
  8. Thank you to everyone. I worked on this until mid day today and then had to quit. I needed a break and distraction otherwise I would go nuts. I will read over the other comments and try those next. I appreciate everyone's support and help. Erik
  9. Riddle me this: Two wires connect to the coil. I disconnected the wires from the coil to do the following. With the ignition on, one displays 12 volts and the other displays 3 volts. Shouldn't one be 12v and the other zero volts? I'm placing my voltmeter on the end of the wire (that would connect to the coil) and grounding the other voltmeter lead. This doesn't makes sense to me but I'm not as well versed as y'all.
  10. @TobyB I see 12.x volts on both sides of the coil. So, they must not be grounding right? Would that be an issue with the ground wire inside the distributor?
  11. @TobyB I'm 100% certain that my points are closed. Given this, meter to ground shows that both the + and - posts of the coil produce 12 volts. @ray_ Continuity is ok on the positive wire. I removed it from the coil and condensor to check. I'm curious what Toby has to say about 12 volts on both sides of the condensor.
  12. @ray_ Is this what you're wanting to see?
  13. The grounding strap appears ok but who knows? It isn't obviously broken or disconnected. The points open and close as they should and I checked the gap for the millionth time. I also tried running a wire directly from the center of the coil to a bolt on the valve cover, key on, points closed and then opening points with a piece of wood (chopstick). I did this to eliminate the possibility of a bad (although new) coil to distributor cable. Nothing. I tried the new Bosch blue coil like this and still nothing. 12 volts at the positive side of the coils but no spark.
  14. @jimk Thank you. I tried that. I even tried it with a brand new Bosch coil. It didn't spark and I'm confident it isn't the coil(s). You may be on to something with the ground strap. I will be hard at it again today trying to determine what is wrong with the distributor. They aren't that complicated so it has to be something simple.
  15. @jimk I believe that it was due to the fact that the points were "open". When closed, it reads over 12 volts as expected. I have a '75 and haven't changed any wiring. After refreshing the engine, I briefly tried to get the car to fire with the original distributor but had the IE on hand so I put it in and it fired right up. The only thing that I changed before installing the IE distributor was to add a positive and negative wires from the coil to the distributor as it has a red and black wire. When I did this, I did not use the original wire that plugs into the condensor on the old distributor. It wasn't used at all. Is it possible that there is something else wrong with the distributor? I set the points gap and the condensor is new. Coil is new. ughhhh!!!