oldguy

You have officially "dropped a valve" Needs more Piston to valve clearance.. ross won't make anything "fast" without a rush order fee. Did you clay all the holes or just one? Because due to differing seat depths during machining, the clearance can be tighter on one than the other. I'm surprised it didn't break the rocker.

Possible failures. Ranked in order of likeliness. There was not enough interference between the new guide and the head. It pressed too easily when the shop put it in. If this happened, the head is most likely junk. The boss will be beat to tears. This can not be fixed without alot of very precision work. The piston hit the valve, the valve bent and kinked in the guide. The guide broke and pieces came out a trumpet. This is kinda a tie from the top one. You're running 11:1 and 1mm over valves. there's a good chance for piston valve makeout session. Depends on how sure you know there was clearance. There's not enough clearance between the retainer and the top of the valve guide/stem. Depending on what guides were installed and coil bind etc. If the machine shop replaced the guides and left them tall in the seats. Then at high revs, the valve retainer will float on down and start taping the guides. Probably would have shown itself on the dyno though. Starting to get into wishing and hoping. There was not enough clearance between the valve and the guide. Highly unlikely. These clearances are pretty standard. The 2002 doesn't use "tight" clearances by modern day standards and has nice large supportive valve stems. Unless these 1mm valves had some custom stem diameter or were +.001" stems, then this is the unlikelyist of all. SBC's run a smaller stem with a valve head almost 2x as wide using the same clearance with alot more side thrust and do not suffer any failures.

The absolute best people in parts is Caterpillar. You can pull a whatsit off a whosit and take the cast in part number to the dealer and find out where it is. we regularly walk into the dealer ordering parts for engines that haven't been made since WW2 and the parts are readily available.

meh. will probably work. Not the best solution. I'd take that nut to a real bolt and nut store and find one wtihout the "nyloc" and one with a mechanical deformation lock nut. edit. Looked it up, it's called a "stover lock nut"

Maybe your right. My bbs's don't run these long halves though. these 15" halves look like they'd use a 13" center.

which does nothing

for 15" centers

At the same time. I know many shops that work on CIS and have quit doing the work because the parts are rare, expensive, and once you've found the problem the owner doesn't want to spend the money to fix it. Endless tail chasing. Few here want to pay real labor so it's not uncommon to find that shops don't want to work on your stuff.

Head has to come off. the rocker arms and shafts are in the way of any tool. While you're replacing the seals, check for play in the guides/stems and do a valve job.. if there's corrosion near your water jackets or the PO put in a tii cutting ring gasket have it surfaced as well

Yeah I know the hardware is more than capable of handing the difference in temp. Either no one programs it in, or it just gets funky or what. I don't know. Many of them are supercharged on roots blowers so the boost is linear and the maps are predictable yet they develop flat spots and weird lean conditions.

early bumpers on a square... I like it...

Many of my friends who run megasquirt... and I don't know why.... do a biannual tune.. once in the summer... once in the winter... almost as if it can't compensate for the difference in air temps.. like 75% of my friends that run MS do it.. wouldn't surprise me if you're due for a tinkering.

You say you can CNC grind cam shafts.. would it be possible if I contact you for a camshaft for a different motor?

a webcast or a youtube video would be nice

As best I can tell, it's a custom hand fabricated supper cool everything with a perfectly stock 5.0 mustang motor. On a good day it might make 240hp with 280 torque which isn't anything to laugh at but it's still pretty low for the coinage spent. I'm pretty sure people have made 250HP cheaper without a solid rear axle.

Many people utilize loctite on them to solve this but I've found that aviation form-a-gasket is the best thing for this job. A big blob on the end of the stud and thread it into the head. Never leaks http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--aviation-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail

I'll take one..

Saw a super nice white 2002 this weekend go through maggie valley,nc

no one really uses "hot tanks" any more. They are enviromentally taboo. Spray wash cabinets are the norm. For cast iron parts they use an acid cleaner heated upto like 150f then blasted on. For aluminum they use an industrial detergent. Think of them like oversized dishwashers.

guy found where all the profit was in the job real quickly.. fully restored means a little something different to everyone.. it's quite obvious though that the guy picked it up from the paint shop and threw it on ebay without checking fitment. The repairs are amateur at best. Paint not so bad. nice for a craigslist paint job

I've yet to go through a wheel bearing running 15x8 et0 on hoosier R comps. now granted they need to be serviced every now and again but there's little physical evidence that the stock strut is ineffective

I love how it says at the end that the car and the garage are insured against this. If the cops write down it was performing an "exhibition of speed" then you might as well kiss both of those coverages goodbye.

Yep. That will not hold. It's also not from you just polishing up that spot either. I would get another rear seal from a different gasket brand than that one. More likely a defective rear seal than a defective carrier unless you've never had a seal in that carrier before or the previous seal spun and ripped out.

Chrome is the app

if it hadn't been repeated... blunt gets my $