Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'megasquirt'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Categories

  • Technical Articles
    • Body and Interior
    • Brakes
    • Engine and Drivetrain
    • Electrical and Ignition
    • History and Reference
    • Racing and Safety
    • Suspension and Steering
  • News
    • Events
    • Racing
  • FAQ Use

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and other 2 door Sedans
  • BMW Nueu Klasse Sedans and Coupés
  • BMW 700

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Colors

Categories

  • Standard and Optional
  • Aftermarket

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Models

Categories

  • BMW 2002 and BMW Neue Klasse Registry

Forums

  • Discussions
    • BMW 2002 and other '02
    • BMW 2002ti and BMW 1600ti Owners Group
    • BMW 2002 Turbo Discussion
    • BMW Neue Klasse Discussion
    • BMW 1600GT Discussion
    • BMW 700 Discussion
    • BMW 2002 and Neue Klasse Events
    • Project Blogs
    • Project Blogs - Archive
    • FAQ Articles Construction Zone
  • Technical Resources
    • Technical Articles
    • Colors Database
    • Wheels Database
  • Classifieds
    • Seller/Buyer Feedback
    • Cars for Sale/Wanted
    • Parts For Sale
    • Parts Wanted
    • eBay
  • Off Topic
    • Site Problems, Suggestions, and Questions
    • Off-Topic
    • Test Forum
  • BayArea02's Discussion
  • Texas's Discussion
  • Australia Owners Club's Discussion
  • Chicago '02 Group's Discussion
  • Florida's Discussion
  • Georgia's Discussion
  • Mid-Atlantic's Discussion
  • Midwest's Discussion
  • New York Owners Group's Discussion
  • Nor'East 02ers's Discussion
  • Pacific Northwest's Discussion
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Discussion
  • Rocky Mountain's Discussion
  • Sacramento's Discussion
  • SoCal 02's's Discussion
  • Canada's Discussion
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Topics

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Drives
  • Racing
  • Shows and Gatherings
  • Technical Videos
  • Other
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Videos

Calendars

  • Events
  • Races
  • BayArea02's Events
  • Texas's Events
  • Australia Owners Club's Events
  • Chicago '02 Group's Events
  • Florida's Events
  • Georgia's Events
  • Mid-Atlantic's Events
  • Midwest's Events
  • New York Owners Group's Events
  • Nor'East 02ers's Events
  • Pacific Northwest's Events
  • Rivertown Gear Busters's Events
  • Rocky Mountain's Rocky Events
  • Sacramento's Events
  • SoCal 02's's Events
  • Canada's Events
  • BC/Lower Mainland Owners Group's Events

Product Groups

  • Parts
    • Suspension
    • Engine and Drivetrain
  • Advertising
  • FAQ Accessories
  • Memberships

Marker Groups

  • Members
  • BMW Repair Shops
  • Race Tracks

Categories

  • BMW '02s
  • BMW '02 Cabrio and Targa
  • BMW '02 Touring
  • BMW 2002 Turbo
  • BMW Neue Klasse
  • BMW 700
  • Other BMWs
  • Non BMWs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 42 results

  1. Fuel injection conversion parts to be used with the Megasquirt system, including intake manifold, fuel rail (with regulator and injectors) exhaust manifold with Oxygen sensor, coolant hoses flange (w/3 coolant sensor ports), coolant bypass line and a radiator with thermal switch for an electric fan. All came from a 1984 318i with a M/T. ALL USED PARTS. You still need to purchase the electronic hardware and software from the Megasquirt company and other materials as well, there are a few great articles in this forum on how to get the conversion done. I Take only cash and prefer local pick up. Any questions IM me. Thabk you Vic
  2. Many of you will have seen an abridged version of this on the 2002 group on Facebook, so apologies for the repetition. After taking the car to the dyno once the EFI build was finished, I kind of got the bug for more power which is probably no surprise to anyone here. I was somewhat disappointed in the 134rwhp/129tq on ITBs+EFI, and figuring that another dyno session with no substantial changes would only yield modest gains, I decided to stretch myself and go forced induction. I looked for a bolt-on solution and came to the conclusion that the Century/BAE turbo or DA/Camden supercharger kits out (if I could find one) are several generations behind today’s forced induction technology, and I would likely be more satisfied piecing something together myself. Hey, if I can do EFI myself, turbocharging can’t be that hard - right? Also, I was/am too emotionally and financially invested to my ITBs to ditch them. It would have been easier to go for a true turbo plenum with single throttle body setup, but that would meant $ wasted on the ITBs. Later in this thread, you might be tempted to think I over-plan, but I refer you back to this part where I went straight for sexy ITBs for my EFI build without considering what I might want to do next. I compartmentalized the project into discrete, sequential chunks and only purchased the parts necessary to complete that specific chunk. Failure to complete one chunk of work would halt the entire project, but planning always involved at least two chunks ahead. Once I committed to going FI, it was difficult to not immediately splurge on a honking great big turbo. But I know the turbo would only have turned into an object d’art on my mantlepiece if I didn’t plan properly. Phases: pressurized intake intercooler location exhaust manifold coil relocation/upgrade turbo positioning plumbing dyno tuning I had already decided that it was going to be a “no cut” build meaning no bodywork incisions for routing plumbing of any kind. Couple of reasons: my engine bay had been refreshed just prior to my purchase so looked pretty spiffy without me hacking holes in it I haven’t attempted any body work of any description yet so cutting, welding and any major fabrication is out of scope for now I wanted to either be able to return it to “stock” if desired, or leave that to be a mostly easy choice for the next owner Phase 1 When I converted to ITBs I had issues with the alternator and clearance for the air filter (see previous blog posts). I surmised I would have the same issue mounting an intake plenum (except that it is not a true plenum) so set about moving the alternator from the traditional 1602/2002 location to that found on 2002Tiis. I wrote that up in a separate post but here it is again for completeness: I need to make some room up near the inlet manifold by moving the alternator. I saw some posts talking about using the later Tii brackets on a regular 02, but never saw "a recipe" posted, so here is mine. Note that the alternator pictured is a 90A unit from BNR (eBay) with a built in voltage regulator. I don't know whether using an external VR makes this easier or harder as I never tried. Parts needed: 1x Tii alternator bracket (part # 11141257413) 1x Tii alternator support bracket (part #12311256082) 1x M8 1.25x100mm bolt 1x M8 1.25x90mm bolt 3x Round Spacer, Aluminum, Plain Finish, 5/16" Screw Size, 3/4" OD, 0.315" ID, 3/4" Length 1x XPZ962 (or XPZ0962) v-belt/fan belt from Gates, Goodyear, Contitech, etc. Various other M8 bolts, washers and bushings from your existing alternator bracketry The round spacers are used to pad the gaps between various components. Re-use your existing bushings and fit them to the new Tii alternator support bracket. You may need to lengthen the wire between your starter and your alternator as mine was only just long enough with the alternator in the new location. The 90mm bolt which the support bracket attaches to also secures the front timing cover to the block. Best to leave the bolt a little loose, get the alternator into position and secured, and then torque that bolt down last all the while ensuring that it is indeed pressing the timing cover to the block tightly. Use washers between the spacer and timing cover if you need to shim it to you liking, or thinner spacers - whatever your car needs. See the following thumbnails for detailed pics. After all that research, I had to move the alternator back to the original position! Read on. My girlfriend must have thought I was going slightly mad at this point. You know how it is. You obsess over a part (probably one with a large price tag) for weeks, by constantly revisiting the same web pages over and over, comparing specs, but never making a purchase. Lists are drawn up, measurements are taken, and drawings are made. I was like this about the plenum or air intake. I needed something that would bolt onto my ITBs. I really wanted a sexy carbon fibre one from Reverie Ltd, or the aluminium one from Jenvey, but repeated measurement and kindergarten quality cardboard mockups suggested they would be too big for the space available. Here is where I polled the assembled FAQ brain trust with little success for other ideas. I am surprised no one suggested just going with a E21 or E30 EFI intake system. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/162198-intake-plenums-for-turbos-whats-out-there/ After some unsatisfactory communication with Dbilas in Germany I finally ordered their “airbox” designed for Ford Focus and VW 16v ABF engines. Like my EFI air filter, I used silicone hose and t-bolt clamps to mount the plenum on the face of the ITBs. It looks amateurish with all the bolt threads sticking out everywhere, but I am an amateur. Maybe I will revise this mounting in the future for a cleaner look. My MAT sensor was mounted to the backplate of the air filter on my EFI build so I had to find another location for it. And turbo builds need a fast acting MAT, so I had to purchase a new Bosch open element type. With the new plenum being aluminium, it was easy to drill two appropriately sized holes (one for sensor element, one for bolt securing sensor to plenum) and tap one of them. Hmmm… boost leaks… I should check if those holes air air tight at 18psi... Phase 2 This is where I discovered that I wasted time relocating the alternator. I did the parts obsessing thing again over intercoolers. For simplicity (avoid plumbing needed for water to air) I wanted an air to air intercooler but I couldn’t find an off the shelf one that was the right dimensions. I would either have had to cut body work (i.e., “gut the nose” of the car) or place the IC on the outside of the car and run piping to it. So, I went for a small heat exchanger and coolant pump behind the grill, and a water to air intercooler in the engine bay. I already had a Spal electric pusher fan mounted in the nose, but I had removed the wiring long ago always meaning to recommission it at some point - it’s a tight fit up there! The IC stands vertically in the engine bay roughly where the battery once would have been. Many many hours of browsing on plumbing, aquatic and hydroponic sites got me a rudimentary cooling system. I also tapped that IC cooling system to supply the turbo with coolant. I used the radiator filler neck from a sports bike mounted on the inner drivers fender for a remote filler neck for the IC and turbo cooling system. The heat exchanger is a 19-row engine/oil cooler, and the pump is a supercharger Bosch coolant pump used on Mercedes and some Mustangs. Also shown below is the first and second iterations of the intercooler hoses which were first just hoses and clamps, and looked terrible. I switched to AN fittings for a much cleaner look. Filler cap is from a motorcycle. Phase 3 I had read a lot about exhaust manifolds at this point. I could go with an ebay special, flip a stock manifold and have an adapter made, look for an old Century/BAE part, or commission one from the various custom guys out there. The more reading I did about the custom ones, the more I thought that the relative expense involved was no guarantee of avoiding manifold failure. I went for a cheap ebay manifold and almost immediately regretted my decision. “Fits 1000x better than the other manifolds” the vendor claims on their ebay ads. If that is true, the “other manifolds” must just simply not fit at all. The holes on the exhaust port flange on the one I purchased needed to be elongated by a good 5mm in places just to get it to fit over the exhaust studs. Anyway, an evening spent removing metal and destroying a drill bit set fixed that. Apparently I was so annoyed by the manifold I didn't take any clear pics of it, but here it is with the header it replaced. The turbo flange on the manifold was a T3 pattern and I already knew I was going to be purchasing a T25 flanged turbo, but I had already scoped out a T3/T25 adapter… on ebay. You already know where this is headed... Anyway, phase 3 complete and, from more mockups and measurements, it looked like the little turbo I had in mind (but not yet purchased) would fit without me having cut anything to run intake pipe. Phase 4 As you may have read, I converted to a coil on plug setup using coils from early 2000’s VW/Audis. It worked really well once I found the right version of the coils, and looked cool in a “that’s unique” kind of way. With the exhaust manifold in place I could see those COPs were no longer going to fit as they stuck out proud of the head a good three inches (reminder: it looked “unique”) and fouled the manifold. My interest had already been sufficiently piqued by reading about the D585/LS2/Yukon coil-near-plug coils on the megasquirt forums that I had purchased four of them, so that’s the route I took. Not being a fabricator myself, I again turned to my favourite vendor for help. ebay turned up several suppliers who were producing crude brackets for mounting these coils in muscle car conversions, so I bought a set. Being for muscle cars, I got two brackets, with each bracket holding four coils for V8 engines. One bracket is now for sale I found a spot under the exhaust manifold with enough space to mount the coils in the bracket using some universal bendable aluminium brackets left over from mounting a fan. I made up some custom 8mm (Taylor? MSD?) spark plug wires with proper D585 boots. Heat is going to be a concern in this area, so I slipped heat reflective sheathing over as much of the plug wires as I could. I may still have to install some kind of barrier to protect the coils, but I cannot sheath them like the wires as they need cooling too. The old coils: The new coils as they arrived (glad I kept them for a few years after I didn't used them and went COP instead): The new coils: Phase 5 After another sub-optimal vendor experience (they would not sell me a part unless I discussed it with them in person or by phone. Email was not, in their eyes, a suitable communication medium for this type of consultation despite 99% of my professional communications being via email), I purchased a GT2560R water cooled turbo with a 5-bolt turbine exhaust flange/T25 turbine inlet flange. The ebay special T3/T25 flange adapter was too tall. The turbo compressor housing hit the inner passenger fender and would not mate with the adapter flange. Bugger. First adapter too tall: Bits and bobs: The original adapter didn’t have enough meat on the flanges for it to be machined shorter so back to trawling the interwebs. Found a guy down south who produces all kinds of turbo flange adapters to order including a snazzy T3/T25 one. Purchase made. F-you, USPS! The new adapter arrived. I was all excited. Oh. Shipping box split open. Only half the adapter present. More hassle, another week wasted getting a replacement, but the vendor was cool and USPS coughed up the insurance. Second adapter once all the bits are together, plus a height comparison with the first adapter: The second adapter fitted perfectly with more 1cm clearance between the turbo and inner fender, and more test fittings followed to figure out routing of oil and coolant lines before committing to thread locker. Another learning moment for me: a T25 5-bolt flange is different to a GT25 5-bolt flange, and an adapter for the former will not fit on the latter without modification. If anyone needs a T25 5-bolt to 3” v-band exhaust adapter…. By now I had all the major system components in place and it was a case of “stringing” them together. Phase 6 Lots of random stuff in this phase. I needed to run wiring, relays, fuses and switches for the intercooler pump and fan. To do this, I expanded the fuse/relay blocks I had installed for MegaSquirt under the rear seat, and purchased two switches for manually operating the pump and fan. The switches are ‘02 pull switches… for electric choke maybe? I had been running with no center console for years (I like the uncluttered look, and who needs a radio with ITBs?!) so fitted one and got the radio working again. The pull switches are located either side of the ashtray on the console fascia. I have temporarily mounted a VDO Vision vacuum/boost gauge in a bracket hanging under the dash. It’s in a perfect position to NOT be able to see it while driving. I will have to figure out a more permanent and more visible solution, perhaps involving the center console again. Emails to Parker Performance to that end went unanswered after an initial response. Before without the console: Console fitted with boost gauge (will I ever mount it properly?) and pull switches: I knew enough not to purchase a “complete universal turbo kit” off ebay, or even one described as being for an M10/’02, but I did succumb to a universal 2.5” piping kit and immediately spent the same amount all over again on specific pieces to finish the job. Lots of 2.5” pipe left over if anyone is interested. See a theme here? The air filter sits on the “cold” side of the engine bay and runs up over the radiator (not ideal) to the compressor inlet. The compressor outlet is routed down the inner fender and under the engine roughly inline with the bottom of the oil pan, and then turns vertically to connect to the vertical intercooler. Exhaust is routed via a 3” stainless pipe, with o2 sensor mounted on it, that connects via a downpipe and reducer to a 2.5” IE stainless exhaust. The BOV is located on the piping under the engine, tucked up by the coils. I messed up the BOV spring selection and got one way stiffer than I needed. I knew I needed to know vacuum at idle instead of boost PSI, but as the car was not running I couldn’t tell what inHg it pulled so googled, guess and got it wrong. Another duplicate purchase. A local one-man-band exhaust shop fabricated the downpipe and made the join to the existing exhaust. I had planned to tow it to him on a U-Haul dolly, drop it off and pick it up, but my German SUV tow rig had other ideas. U-haul said my trailer light module was kaput and refused to rent me the dolly. So, the night before the (long awaited) exhaust appointment, I had to rapidly get some outstanding issues resolved so the car was able to move under it’s own momentum. I gingerly drove it (you know the feeling) the two miles or so to the shop, hazards flashing, in the ditch, with a sign attached to hopefully placate any passing police. Nothing burst into flames but it’s loud with an open pipe. And that turbine whines like a MFer with an open pipe. Made it to the shop with the smell of newly heated fresh components permeating the cabin. Only stopped twice to look for flames! The manual boost controller is mounted (in)conveniently to the compressor housing via a bracket. I will need to relocate it due to potential heat problems and it’s damn difficult to access in its current location. Purchased and installed a vacuum manifold, then tidily as possible ran lines to MAP sensor (I was only running an AN tune before), boost gauge and BOV. Switched out the 29lb/hr fuel injectors for some 60lb’ers which is probably overkill, but drivability doesn’t seem to have suffered. Had a leak from one of the injectors that was not seated properly and the dire warnings of petrol leaking at 43psi were immediately foremost in my mind. Easy fix though. Cooling and oiling the turbo was a real pain. Someone had previously galled the threads on the oil pressure sensor port on the distributor house, so I had to wrap plumbing tape (I know, I know… I am shamed) around the threads of an adapter I bought to fit in that port. Leak stopped, but it bugs me knowing there is a stripped thread waiting for me or, worse, the next owner. The adapter relocates the oil pressure sensor and provides an NTP port for “expansion”, in this case the oil feed to the turbo. Oil return was a bitch too. I eventually drilled and tapped a hole in the front timing cover after much deliberation. Not wanting to have a soft porous hose after a few months use, I searched high and low for hose suitable for the oil return before finding something somewhere with the right specs. Cooling systems are simple right? Closed system, pump, blah, blah - that’s it. No air locks. The turbo coolant inlet is at about the same height as the coolant filler neck, and the coolant supply hose runs ever so slightly uphill meaning an air pocket is trapped where it is least welcome - at the turbo housing. With much rocking of the car, squeezing of hoses, and jacking the car up at acute angles (oh, the neighbourhood car guys loved that sight) I could get the air out, but I knew at some point I would have to drain/refill the system and didn’t want that hassle again. I place a fitting in-line in the coolant supply hose that allows me to unscrew a port at the highest point in the system (besides the filler neck) to bleed off air that otherwise would be trapped. One thing I never fully addressed in my MegaSquirt build was driving the stock tachometer. Tried every home brewed remedy out there I could find - diodes, resistors, lucky rabbits feet and four leafed clover of various specs soldered together but none of them worked with my COP set up. North Hollywood Speedo agreed to convert my existing tach to work with the MegaSquirt output. It was partially successful. Yes, my tach needle moves, but only in some vague approximation of the true RPM value. I call it my lazy tach. It bugs me. Phase 7 Before I got it all buttoned up, I made an appointment with Shane at DB Performance in Rogers, MN to do the tuning on their dyno. They did the EFI tune for me and were great to work with. There were still lots of things to straighten out before dyno day #2 like getting it to run on a basic speed density tune. Even on the basic tune I could tell power was up! I didn't bother with a tow dolly this time and drove to the dyno. Discussed my goals with Shane: reliable 200rwhp, max 13PSI (stock internal, stock head gasket), street drivability. She got strapped in and I just hung around feeling useless. The results were disappointing. 175rwhp and 172tq. You can see that the PSI line in the graph above tapers off. Shane called me over after a few hours to discuss the problem, it wouldn't hold boost. We went over several causes (exhaust too restrictive, etc.). I volunteered up "boost leaks?". Shane asked "You did check for boost leaks, right?". Sheepishly, I did not. We pressurized the intake and listened to many, many leaks noisily discharge precious boost. His next customer was already outside and I wasn't about to be making gaskets out of my underpants at $150/hour still strapped to the dyno, so we called it quits for the day. Leaks I found: Throttle bodies to intake manifold Shorty, straight air horns to throttle bodies Vacuum hose Silicone coupling hose Throttle body shaft seals I have fixed all the leaks but the ITB shaft seals. Another reason I should have ditched the ITBs. I also had a slight hesitation when building boost on hard acceleration. I rectified that by regapping the plugs down from 0.37 to .025. I had forgotten to do that prior to dyno day. So much for my planning. It's running and driving well on the 175rwhp tune with plenty of power. It's a blast to drive. Had another issue crop up after 600 miles of driving since putting the turbo on. Doing a Sunday drive when I hear some debris get kicked up by my wheels and clatter along the underside of the chassis. No biggie. Happens again a few miles later. Wtf? And again! Nurse it home. Guibo. Must have misaligned the trans/drive shaft, shredded the guibo, and chunks of it or the bolts are flying off. Get it home and up on ramps. Guibo looks brand new! Must have been debris after all. Drive it to the office. Meet girlfriend after work. More clattering debris episodes. Damn, these tyres are sticky! Oh, my exhaust sounds a bit funny all of a sudden? Nurse it back to the girlfriends garage. No need for ramps this time. Of the five studs and nuts holding the exhaust onto the turbine, only two studs and one nut are left. And the only nut left is the one that is held captive by the exhaust output adapter that has low clearance and basically holds the nut in place. So, there was debris on the road, and I left it there - my studs and nuts. High temp loctite and we're up and running again. I need to book a follow up dyno session to get the magic 200 number. Next issue was the waste gate actuator being too close to the fender. The 8mm of clearance wasn't enough and sufficient contact was made occasionally when running to remove some paint. I needed a thinner T25/T3 flange adapter which would bring the turbo closer to the manifold and increase the gap. Ordered another adapter (my third flange adapter!) from Hong Kong on eBay which was a single piece item (last adapter was two piece) which came with both gaskets in copper. Quality and fit was good but one of the copper gaskets blew out (!?) on the first run. After some sage advice from my uncle back in New Zealand who has a bit of auto racing history and a lot of auto mechanic history, I reverted to regular gaskets, switched to copper coated exhaust nuts (brass wouldn't hold) and it has been rock solid ever since. I have done 1,200 with the turbo and 500 on the current config which seems to be holding together very well. She even gets me to work rapidly... ...and the grandkids like to play in the "funny little car":
  3. I spent most of 2014 installing the engine and trans, finishing and fine tuning the Megasquirt installation, and a bunch of other miscellaneous tasks to get it ready to turn the key for the first time. Also a million and one other "while I'm there" jobs like LED bulbs for the dash, securing the oversize spare wheel, fixing the hood support, etc., etc.,... Then it was off to a local dyno shop for tuning with some great results for a first effort. Installing Engine Wiring The part I dislike the most. It's tedious and I suck at it. Wiring errors and "on the job learning" is perhaps the thing that slowed me down the most. And because I suck at it, it's all the more rewarding when I do get it right and stuff works as it should. The first pic is what caused me most grief - it's the VR sensor. I triple checked I had it wired up correctly, comparing dozens of posts online, and I still didn't. Yes, those are crimps for speed of mock up assembly, and yes they were insulated before use. Megasquirt/TunerStudio would show cranking with the VR sensor polarity reversed, but never get a clean tach signal. I spent days trying to figure out why it would crank but not fire until I ripped it all apart and went back through it for a second time and flipped the polarity for giggles. Et voila. First fire. I should add that at this point I changed course several times about how to fire the coil(s) and what coil(s) to use. I was originally going to use EDIS and a DIYAutotune four-post coil. See the EDIS and four plug wires in these early pictures. ...then I dropped EDIS and got the MS3X daughter card to fire smart coils directly for a cleaner install (less under the hood) and contemplated the "Yukon" LS coils. There were no easy/clean ways to mount the Yukon coils with the stock GM bracket, and I don't have access to a shop to create my own, and there were none on the aftermarket that were suitable, so I started looking at coil on plugs with ignitors (aka "smart coils"). The VAG COP of choice seems the be the ones from early to mid VW Golfs and Jettas. Plenty of information out there in the Megasquirt documentation and forums about what to look for and how to wire them up. Be aware though that the part number revisions given in the documentation did not guarantee compatibility with Megasquirt. I burned out several coils before I learned that the only real check was to measure resistance across pins 2 &3... just like the documentation says to do ;-) I did find it necessary to trim about 1cm off the lower part of the metal shroud on the coils (trim it back level with bottom of the rubber insulation beneath the metal shroud) to get a good fit on the top of the plugs. They are regular plugs for our cars. Can't remember which type exactly, except they are of the resistor variety with the bulbous tops instead of the threaded posts for connecting to the spark plug wires. You can see the VAG COPs fitted and wired up in this pic. So that's where the ignition landed. VR sensor feeding tach to MS, MS firing the VAG COPs directly using the MS3X daughter card. At this point It was time to fire it up. http://youtu.be/Cv2tBOEBCVY Air intake Due to limited room, I had to do some creative doodling about air filtration. I bought some stubby air horns from a VW shop that are straight with no radius (so they aren't really air horns at all), some angled silicone hose, and a Ram Air filter and base plate. Here is one of the stubbies in situ: Bolted them all together in the following order (except the thick spacer next to the real air horn - that was not needed): I ended up with the following contraption: With the thick spacer removed and all four attached with the actual filter, this is what it ended up like: The hoses are now firmly secured using stainless t-bolt bands (not shown in the mock ups). I ran the car with no hood for several weeks because I was still spending a lot of time working under there tweaking stuff. When I reinstalled the hood, I found one of the support channels attached to the underside of the hood interfered with the filter when the hood was latched closed, so I had to trim another 2cm off the hose to lower the height of the filter. Another problem, which I have yet to solve, is that the filter is too high for the strut bar I bought. If I don't fix the issue, look for the strut bar in the classifieds! Throttle Cable My first throttle mechanism was bodged together from whatever materials I could find in my garage plus some barrel adjusters from eBay and it was not pretty. It used the cable supplied with the Jenvey ITBs but the cable was incredibly sticky inside the outer sheath which made throttle modulation difficult. I think the first pic shows a piece of old carb linkage being recycled - like I said, it was a case of making do. It worked well enough for a few weeks before two things happened: the gas pedal fell off while driving the throttle cable snapped The "evil nubs" had not yet given up so I ordered a new pedal and a Lokar throttle cable kit. No pics of the new cable set up. First drive Here it is with a basic Megasquirt tune. There will still any things to complete before it was ready for the road. http://youtu.be/QgihsRWl2Uw Once it was ready, I took it out for it's maiden voyage in the computer age. http://youtu.be/_dE5FuAJAJ4 Wiring Revisited The Megasquirt documentation is insistent on proper grounds. Here's what happens if you (inadvertently) get it wrong. Again, I thought I had done it correctly, but the engine kept cutting out on drives over say 15 minutes. I would be powering along nicely, or just cruise steadily and then silence. RPMs would drop, no power, then nothing. Glide to the side of the road, switch the ignition off, switch the ignition back on again and it would instantly fire back up as if nothing had happened. Megasquirt logging several of these events showed the ECU saw voltage drop from +13.7V to 6V then nothing. Checking the relay/fuse holder and I saw the melted goey mess that used to be a fuse. Resistance was causing significant heat build up. Begin complete re-wire number three! Hood Support I broke the passenger side weld on the hood support torsion bar when removing the hood back in 2012, and my friend Kenny finally dusted off his gear for me. Dyno day While I had been able to get it to the point where it was drivable, I wanted an expert to take a look and tune it. My goals were twofold: ensure a professional tunes it safely so I don't break anything with my basic tune "more POWWWWAAAAAARRRRRR!!!!" (in your best Clarkson voice) Got her all strapped in for her big day. In the following videos, I am the very nervous looking guy in blue. Having never heard an M10 at full tilt (well, almost) from a few feet away, it was quite the experience for me. We agreed on an upper limit of 6400 RPMs but it sure sounded like it was going to grenade at about 6000. The operator didn't bat an eye though. One of the early dyno runs: http://youtu.be/M4_6wZO6CFY Nearing the end of the day: http://youtu.be/yr_LMgSI7Iw The end result was a good 134rwhp (150ish at the crank?) and 129TQ with a really flat curve. We finished up at about 7pm and the dyno operator, being the consummate salesman, said that there are two issues I need to fix and to "bring it back for another session, there's more in there!" The two issues (O2 sensor reading low, erratic CLT reading) have both since been fixed. The Future I tried most of the home brewed methods of getting the stock tach to work with Megasquirt and the COPs and gave up. The tach is now with North Hollywood Speedometers to be fitted with a custom PCB that will be driven directly by Megasquirt's tach output. There may be forced induction in my future. There, I said it. I committed that thought to paper. It must be, like the EFI build, a "no cut" FI build though. I do not want to gut the front of the car or otherwise change the body work. Yes, that will force compromises, and I am absolutely ok with that. Here's my though process, and a failure on any one step below will cause the whole FI plan to be dropped: Move the alternator to the Tii position to make room for an airbox that can be pressurized Find an air box that will fit without moving the booster, etc. Find a place to mount an intercooler without cutting Find a turbo manifold and turbo that fits without cutting Run intake tubes everywhere I am at this point today: ..and waiting for a XPZ962 fan belt to be delivered for Christmas.
  4. This is the continuation of the Megasquirt/EDIS installation article found here (which I apparently ran out of article room in): This article will focus specifically on how to tune an EFI installation on your 2002. It will focus on Megasquirt as the example (since that is what I installed on my car and thus am most familiar with), but the general process is still applicable to other type of EFI setups. Note: Before you ask, no, I will NOT share my actual *.msq files. That's a great way for an amateur to screw up their engine by 'just trying.' I will however share and explain screenshots of the parameters that I use in my car. It is then up to YOU to understand this and use the information to build up your own parameters. I have traditionally used Megatune but have just recently been trying out TunerStudio Lite, so you will see screenshots from both pieces of software in this write-up. Section VII - Tuning Contents: 1.) Engine parameters 2.) Cranking and Starting 3.) Warmup 4.) Idle 5.) Acceleration enrichment 6.) Speed-Density vs. Alpha-N and the VE table 7.) EGO and AFR table 8.) Spark advance table 9.) Datalogging and tuning So you finally have Megasquirt (or another EFI) hardware installed on your 2002 and all wired up. But there's still more work to do before you try to crank the car up for the first time! Let's first double check that you didn't miss anything and have all of the prerequisites for loading up your first tune: A.) All hardware is installed (manifold, throttle body, fuel rail, injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump, O2 sensor, coolant sensor, intake air temp sensor, throttle position sensor, fast idle circuit, and if applicable, EDIS hardware). B.) All wiring is correct, hooked up, and SAFE (e.g. right size wiring, fused, etc.) C.) Megasquirt controller boots properly, has firmware loaded, and can communicate with your tuning laptop (via Megatune, Tunerstudio, etc.) So basically make sure everything is installed, wired properly, and you have proper communication to the EFI controller. A great first test of things in general is that when the Megasquirt unit is first powered up, it should briefly run the fuel pump for 2-3 seconds in order to prime and pressurize the fuel system. This also gives you a chance to make SURE that you don't have any fuel leaks, which obviously would be a bad thing! I'll detail the basic setup process specific for my 2002 below, but in addition to my walk through I would strongly encourage you to also read and understand the details of the system straight from the source in the Megamanual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/configure.htm There's also a great write-up on using the TunerStudio software here: https://bauercatfish15.files.wordpress.com/2016/07/gant_semester_project.pdf On a final note, make sure you go through and put in the base settings for each and every one of these sections BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO START YOU CAR FOR THE FIRST TIME! 1.) - Engine Parameters OK, now let's start taking a closer look into the details of programming the controller, starting with entering the details of YOUR specific engine, which is what all later calculations will be based on. At its core, EFI control is actually rather simple. It just aims to inject the right amount of fuel to proportionally match the amount of oxygen entering each cylinder. But to know how much oxygen is entering each cylinder, we first need to know things like how many cylinders are on the engine, the volume of each cylinder, and how efficiently they draw in fresh air. Obviously our 2.0L engines have 4 cylinders each with a theoretical maximum volume of 0.5L of fresh air each. This is our starting point. In my Megasquirt's general settings, I have identified my ECU type as Megasquirt 2, and total engine displacement of 121 cubic inches. All other parameters I have left at their default values: The next important part to setup is the injection control settings. This tells the controller the details of my injectors (how many, how much fuel they flow, etc.) and how I want them controlled. The first step is to click on the 'Required Fuel' box up top and enter the engine and injector details, and the program then calculates a baseline for how long the injectors need to be open to provide the right amount of fuel under ideal circumstances. The lower portion then is where you decide HOW you want this amount of fuel to be delivered. In this example for my car, I have all four injectors firing simultaneously twice per engine cycle. This means (for a 4-stroke engine) all injectors will fire once per 360 degree crank revolution, and each firing will deliver half the required amount of fuel. Other options would be to fire them just once with the full amount of fuel per 720 degrees, or every 180 degrees with 1/4 the amount of fuel. You also have the option to batch fire just one bank of injectors instead of all of them together, but I think this makes more sense V-configuration engines where the two injector banks are two separate fuel rails for each cylinder head, and personally I don't see any reason to try this on a 2002: 2.) - Cranking and Starting In the general settings, you can choose to set starting parameters, like priming pulse, cranking pulse, after-start enrichment, etc. to use a two-point linear calculation or a table-based calculation (based on coolant temperature) that lets you do more fine-tuning of the parameters. I use the table option, but still keep things pretty linear. The priming pulse is a bit of gas injected BEFORE you even start cranking to 'prime' the initial intake charge. I have this set from 6.0ms at beyond-cold temperatures to 2.0ms at beyond-hot temperatures: Similarly, the cranking pulse is the injector pulse width during cranking (I think by default 'cranking' is defined as less than 300 RPM, you can adjust this but it seems fine for most cars). For this I go as high as 10ms for below-freezing conditions to 3.0ms for a fully hot-start. Obviously this is an important one for achieving easy cold starting. I admit though that I live in a rather mild climate so haven't really tested this very much on sub-freezing days, and I suspect my hot-start parameters are a bit on the rich side, but I have not fully run this one down yet. I'm basically saying, take these values with a grain of salt, and if anyone wants to propose more fully-researched values, I'd be happy to hear from you! 3.) - Warmup But wait, there's more! After the engine catches and has started, it still wants more fuel than normal for a few seconds while everything 'gets moving,' so to speak. This is accomplished by setting an addition enrichment percentage (added to the normal VE fueling calculated value), again based on temperature. There's actually two tables involved, the first is how MUCH additional enrichment is provided (the afterstart enrichment, or ASE, percentage), and the second is for how LONG, in engine cycles, it is applied for (ASE Taper): Ok, now we've gotten the starting and first ~30 seconds of parameters set, but what about for the rest of the time it takes for the car to get warmed up to operating temperature? Well, again there's two adjustments for this. The first is warmup enrichment. This is basically the same idea as ASE, but now base purely on coolant temperature and input as a total percentage of normal calculated fuel amount. I consider my car 'up to operating temperature' by about 170 degrees F, though you'll notice I chose phase out the warm up enrichment a little earlier at 150 degrees. Those last 20 degrees don't seem to matter much in how it runs, and for keeping the normal tuning process clean I like to not have to worry about factoring in warmup enrichment as a variable. One other variable to notice in here is the Flood Clear Threshold %. This is another starting parameter and is the throttle position at which Megasquirt assumes that you've accidentally flooded the engine and will SHUT DOWN all the injectors during cranking. This is a nice feature, but if you are used to starting your car with the throttle open, that will be a habit that you need to break! With properly set up Megasquirt tune, you should let it handle everything and always keep you foot off the pedal during starting in all conditions. 4.) - Idle Now that we have the fuel set up for the warmup phase, obviously the next important part is the intake air. This is set in the Idle PWM duty cycle if using a PWM valve, or in Idle Steps if using an IAC stepper motor. Note that there are conditions for cranking/starting to be set here as well. For starting, the IAC can be set to a cranking position, and move to the right spot per engine temperature. This is set in the Idle Control table. The Start Value is how many steps the stepper motor retracts (opens) when first powered up. This should be enough to get it from the fully closed to fully open position. The next box, cranking position, is how far it then closes back down from the fully open position. This then is effectively how much air your letting in during cranking, or put another way, how much throttle you want during starting, but without using the gas pedal. The third important box is the crank-to-run taper time, which is the number of seconds after the engine has started that it will hold this position before closing down further to the calculated position for the current engine temperature: Now that the starting parameters are set, next up is the warmup parameters. This is similarly adjusted as a table of IAC steps per temperature. Remember you'll want the IAC fully closed by the time the engine is warmed up, so this value in steps should match the start value from earlier, so that it always runs from fully open to fully closed: 5.) - Acceleration Enrichment Ok, this should cover all of the basic parameters for getting the car started and idling from cold to warm, other than the main VE table. There's one last area that we want to adjust first before getting there though, and that is acceleration enrichment. Just like the accelerator pump on a carburetor, this system provides a little extra fuel during the transient periods that you are actually changing the throttle position. It can use either changes in manifold absolute pressure (MAP), or changes is throttle position (TPS) as inputs, or a combination of the two. I use a 50/50 split of both, found it's smart to raise the threshold a bit, so that normal 'noise' from either the MAP or TPS sensor doesn't trigger any unwanted acceleration enrichment to kick in. Tuning this acceleration enrichment properly will help give you that nice snappy throttle response you undoubtedly want: You can also take this one step further if you want and try playing with the X-Tau correction tables. X-Tau corrects for an amount of fuel that gets 'stuck' on the walls of the intake port and valve (momentarily leaner), and then gets burned up *later* once it evaporates (momentarily richer), but I've never personally turned on X-Tau correction or tried to mess with it at all, so I can't offer you much advice beyond the basic operating principal here. 6.) Speed-Density vs. Alpha-N and the VE table Finally to the main fun part, the VE table! Let's firstly understand exactly what this is. At the very beginning in the Injection Control section, we told Megasquirt how much fuel our 2.0L engine will need under IDEAL conditions with perfect cylinder filling, but what about real-world conditions? This is where the VE table comes into play. At idle with a closed throttle plate, each cylinder isn't pulling in a full 0.5L worth of air, so clearly less fuel is necessary. Cylinder filling is also different at different RPMs; even at full throttle there's a difference in how much air the engine can pull in at 2000 vs. 5000 RPM. These two variables, engine load and engine speed, are the axes of the VE table, and the values then are nothing more than a percentage of that ideal amount of fuel for perfect cylinder filling. So referencing the earlier Required Fuel value that we calculated as 17.6 (in ms), a value in the VE table of 50 would mean that we're asking for 8.8ms of fuel at that particular operating point. Now with that all cleared up, we ready to address the difference between speed-density and Alpha-N. Fortunately it's pretty straight forward: speed-density uses manifold absolute pressure (or MAP) as the input for engine load, and Alpha-N uses the throttle position for load instead. In my humble opinion, speed-density is the superior method. Alpha-N works OK if you don't have a good MAP signal (for instance in an ITB setup), but if you CAN get a good MAP signal, then that's better for two reasons. First, it automatically compensates for changes in elevation. Going for a nice drive up into the mountains? No problem, as the air gets less dense, this is automatically reflected in the MAP, and Megasquirt leans things out for you. It's like changing out jets while driving! Secondly, I like that MAP is a more direct measurement of engine load, where as throttle position is one step further removed. (Incidentally mass air flow, or MAF, is one step better still, as it directly measures the mass of the oxygen entering the intake, which is why all modern OEM applications use it). Note: it's important to also use (and calibrate) an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor when using speed-density. The intake air changes density with temperature (aka there's less oxygen available at a given pressure with warmer air as opposed to cooler air), so the input from the IAT allows Megasquirt to compensate for this. Other than calibrating your sensor, I don't think there is any other setup needed for IAT correction, unless you wish to set up a non-linear correction curve (not sure when this is necessary though). Anyway, without further ado, here is what my VE table looks like: Remember yous might need to look a bit different, depending on your engine/pistons/cam/etc! I'll explain a few of the more important regions of the table now though: Idle - I have my car set to idle at about 900 RPM and there it's at about 40 kPa. I've found a VE of about 44 to give the smoothest, tad-rich (AFR ~14.0) idle. Notice that I keep this area of the VE table pretty flat with a lot of 44s so that a little fluctuation in idle speed or MAP signal won't drastically affect the injector pulse widths. Cruising - This is in the mid-MAP range (around 40-70kPa) from 2000-4000 RPM. Here the VE tables are only in the 50-60 range, not a whole lot higher than idle, compared to the 70 and up for most of the higher load and higher rev area. While cruising down the highway or a back road with only light throttle, you can really run much leaner than when you're accelerating, and thereby get much better fuel economy. More on this is the AFR section but for now just remember to not get too aggressive with the VEs in this area. Peak power/torque - Just the opposite of cruising, here at high load you want to error on the richer side. At full throttle above idle and higher RPMs with even a modest amount of throttle applied, I'm pretty much have the VEs at least up to 75, and they climb from there up to above 100 in the peak power band. You may also notice that my MAP axis goes up to 110kPa: above atmospheric pressure. This is because the 318i manifold has magnificent resonance properties in the mid-range (due to its long intake runners) and thus delivers a healthy bit of supercharging in this sweet spot, so I needed to run the table up into that range to capture this. Megasquirt will extrapolate linearly out beyond the VE table, but I prefer to try to keep everything under my control as much as possible. Note that for a turbo application, your VE table MAP axis should run all the way up to your max boost pressure, and VEs should also be increased accordingly. Overrun - This is the high vacuum area at the very bottom of the table (20-30kPa) when the throttle is closed for deceleration. Obviously you don't need much fuel here, so the VE numbers stay pretty low. I do raise them a tad at the low RPM just so the area around idle is smoother, though in truth I'm not sure if seeing as low as 20kPa at <1200 RPM is even realistic. 7.) EGO and AFR table If you're an experienced carb tuner, it's entirely possible to develop a pretty good VE table with just narrow-band or no O2 feedback (my dad and I did this on his 911 Megasquirt build) and achieve pretty good results. But in this day and age, using wide-band O2 feedback makes this infinitely simpler, and utilizing the AFR table and EGO closed-loop feedback in Megasquirt makes it so easy it almost feels like cheating. NOTE: I STRONGLY recommend leaving closed-loop EGO correction OFF or at least restricted with very limited authority while you develop your VE table until it's quite good on it's own. Just last weekend on my way to the Vintage my EGR sensor started to fail and reading very (untruthfully) rich, which caused the EGO control to reduce fuel and made the car run LEAN! Fortunately the EGO only had 5% authority, so I was only running 5% lean. But if I had for example had the EGO dialed up to 30%, then it would have instead run 30% and that would have been VERY bad! You want a good solid VE table as you basis, with EGO just for tuning feedback and at the most fine adjustments while running. The AFR table is just what it sounds like. It looks just like the VE table only here the numbers are your desired AFR target at the given operating points. Just like I mentioned for the VE table above, I like my idle area to be just on the rich side of stoichiometric, lean while cruising, rich under heavy load, and a bit lean on overrun, and smooth transitions between these areas: Again you should decide what works best for your own specific car, but this should give you and idea for a starting point. Next, here is what my EGO control settings look like. With a well developed VE table, I allow it the authority to adjust the fueling amount by 10% to try and hit the AFR targets. While dialing in an early VE table, I would suggest starting with no more than 5% (have some EGO is helpful during tuning, as it allows you to see in the datalogs when the EGO is kicking in and how much). I also cut the EGO control out at idle (only active above 1200 RPM) and at full throttle (only active below 75% TPS or 90 kPa). This is generally considered good practice so that the controller doesn't end up 'chasing its tail' in a feedback loop in these sensitive areas: 8.) Spark advance table Assuming that you're using Megasquirt to control your ignition (or even if you using something different like the 123Ignition distributor), you'll need to program in your desired ignition curve. The factory advance curve is a pretty good but conservative starting point, with about 15 degrees of advance at idle and 30 degrees of 'all-in' advance by 3000 RPM, and then an additional of ~5 degrees or so added for the overrun/high vacuum areas. My advance curve is slightly more aggressive than stock but still on the conservative side. I found the biggest improvement to come from a steeper climb in advance just above idle helps a lot with pulling off the line. I've think that 2002s tend to really like more advance in general, and I think with good 91 octane gas and a well dialed-in VE tune you can get all the way up to 40 degrees all-in, but play it safe starting out and increase slowly to avoid issues with pinging/detonation! I also found it helpful to increase advance just a bit *below* idle speed, so that idle sits in a bit of a 'valley' in the advance curve, which helps keep it stable: 9.) Datalogging and tuning Congratulations, you now have all of basics setup and should be ready to try starting your car! Here's my recommendation of steps to follow for the first startup: 1.) Cranking - Double check your timing, cranking/ASE, and idle control settings and then make sure the engine at least catches after a small amount of cranking. It's OK if it doesn't want to idle yet, but if it doesn't want to fire at all then go back to the wiring and these three settings first. 2.) Idle - First aim for a faster than normal idle, maybe ~1200 RPM, and adjust the warmup and fast idle parameters to try and keep it in this range until the car is fully warmed up. Once it's warm, make sure all warmup enrichment and fast idle adjustments have all cut out, and then work on the VE table, timing, and the mechanical idle stop to get a smooth idle at your desired idle RPM with an AFR in the low 14s. After you have a good warm idle, you'll probably need to go back later after another cold start and re-tweak the warmup and fast idle settings. 3.) Accel enrichment - Once you've got the car warmed up and idling nicely, start playing with the acceleration enrichment settings to get good throttle response so that the engine revs up quickly when you blip the gas and then returns back to a good idle without drama. 4.) Datalogging - Great, now time for a test drive! But before you pull out of the driveway, start recording a datalog (built-in capability with TunerStudio). This will let you review everything that happens during your drive and decide where and what adjustments need to be made accordingly. Here's an example from one of my logs. Let's just focus on the top most of the three graphs. Here, white is RPM, red is MAP, and green is AFR (you may want to enlarge for better viewing): In the first (left) half of the graph, I'm cruising and then decelerating. MAP is generally low, AFR is staying on the high side, and RPM is coming down with a few upward blips where I downshift. As soon as I come to a stop (low point on white RPM line), I then do a moderate acceleration in 1st and then close to full throttle for 2nd and 3rd (middle portion of the graph). If you look closely you can see a brief point early in the 1st gear run-up where the RPM drops just a little (I'm pretty sure this is due to the clutch engaging) and the AFR goes a bit high/lean - This is an area where I should consider increasing the value in the VE table! The gear shifts are the 'spikes' in the RPM line. Right where the indicator line is at I have lots of throttle (93.5 kPa) in 2nd gear at 4139 RPM and AFR is 13.2. In the tiny gauges at the very bottom of the screen, you can see that my target AFR (AFRtrgt1) in this area is set to 12.5, so I might want to richen this are up slightly, but 13.2 is already pretty good. The thing that does jump out at me in this section though are the low (rich) spikes in the AFR line right when I close the throttle (MAP goes low) to shift. This means I ought to decrease the amount of fuel during deceleration in my acceleration enrichment parameters (decel cut is just the opposite of accel enrichment for when the throttle is actively closing). In the last (right) section of the datalog, I shift into 4th and am back up to speed and cruising again and the AFRs nicely go back up the leaner cruising numbers. It takes some practice to get the hang of looking at and correctly interpreting all of this stuff in the datalogs, but THIS IS HOW YOU TUNE, FOLKS, so start grabbing some data and practicing! You should be able to get things running pretty well with just a few goes, but it will take many, many different rounds of test drives and the resulting finer and finer tweaks to get things close to perfect, but hey, this is part of the fun of DIY Megasquirt after all! Good luck and I encourage you to post additional questions and/or datalogs in the comments if you need further help with any specifics!
  5. While there is quite a lot of information on EFI conversions for our cars (some of which I will directly reference here), my goal with this article is to help anyone embarking on this type of project with a modular approach, so that one may go at his own pace, and deviate for personal preferences at any point along the way. My own project has been done on a 1975 base 2002 using Megasquirt 2, Ford EDIS, and B&G firmware, so this will be the basis referenced here. All standard disclaimers apply, please be safe about working on your car, and I'm not responsible if you screw something up, but I hope this helps many people interested in pursuing various EFI conversions for their 2002! Useful 2002 Megasquirt conversion blogs: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Megasquirt_presentation.pdf http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/Megasquirt/preparation.html http://www.finkbuilt.com/blog/category/automotive/megasquirt-efi/ http://customers.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002.html Intro - Some things to consider If you're just contemplating this undertaking and wondering if it's a good project for you and your car, here's my brief personal advice on the subject. But obviously do your research and decide if it's a project you think you'd like doing. Reasons EFI is a good fit for your 2002: - You like tinkering with your car on a regular basis - You like to drive your car regularly, and thus value better driveabiltiy and reliability - You have and are irked by issues with chokes, cold starts, and warmup Reasons EFI is NOT a good fit for your 2002: - You value originality (your car might end up as much E30 as 2002 by the end). - Your main goal is performance (there are easier, cheaper, and quicker paths to pure horsepower). - You prefer to have someone else work on your car (this can make the tuning process slow, cumbersome, and frustrating). - You want it done quickly or are worried about scope creep. (You WILL find other side projects you'll want to do along the way; the project WILL grow and take more time and money as it goes along. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but you need to be prepared for all of the 'well, while I'm in here' offshoots). First things first. . . You may not yet have decided on all of the details for a project with such a large scope yet, but that's actually OK, because there are some basic upgrades that make sense to take care of first, and are basically necessary no matter what direction you end up going with your car. We're going to start with a few upgrades to the coolant and electrical system. These items can, and I would say even should, be made to 2002s regardless of EFI, but are certainly required for EFI, and therefore make a good starting point. Section I - Coolant System Preparation We'll begin with the cooling system, for which two specific upgrades are needed: First is an E30 coolant divider with three sensor ports. Try to pick up a used one here on the FAQ, Ebay, or a junkyard, and ideally get one that has all of the E30 sensors already in it. You'll replace one with the stock 2002 sender to keep your dash gauge working, use the stock E30 sensor to provide coolant temperature data to Megasquirt, and leave the third in as a plug or use it for other needs (such as a switch to drive an electric cooling fan). The additional coolant sensor is critical for fuel injection, as it is the main input that adjust how much fuel is injected during a cold start and then during warmup until the car is up to operating temperature. Conveniently, it can also be used as the input to have Megasquirt drive an electric radiator fan directly, which is really nice. Here's what this coolant divider looks like in my car, with the 2002 sender up front, the temperature sensor for Megasquirt behind it, and the switch/plug on the left: Next up, while the coolant system is open, will be the coolant bypass line and hose, also from an E30. You'll need this for pretty much anything other than the stock coolant manifold, be it side draft carbs, ITBs, or the 318i intake. You can salvage one from an E30, or buy a brand new one (or as part of a complete set with all new coolant hoses) from Ireland engineering here: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-cooling/M10sddrfthrdwr.html And here's what it looks like installed on my car, sans intake manifold: On last thing that is worth mentioning here. While you have the coolant drained for performing these upgrades, it makes this a convenient time to also take the radiator out. I'll leave scope-creep items like radiator and fan upgrades for other articles/blogs, but the reason I mention it here is that IF you are planning to use a Ford EDIS ignition setup (which is my recommendation, but see the later ignition section for more details), you will need the radiator out so that you can remove the crank pulley and replace it with one with a trigger wheel. The easiest route that I would recommend is to just purchase a brand new pulley with a trigger wheel and also the sensor mount from Tom at 02again (http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358). Section II - Electrical System Preparation So, with the main items for the coolant system in process and/or already taken care of, we will next move to the primary electrical system upgrades needed for EFI. The first involves relocating the battery from the original location in the engine bay to *somewhere* else in the car. The most popular new homes are either in the trunk or under the rear seat, but you can put it pretty much wherever you want to, as long as you get it the heck out of the way up front. I didn't like the idea of losing trunk space and drilling into the rust-prone rear shock towers, so I chose to follow Zeebucks lead and installed two Hawker Odyssey batteries under the back seat, and will link to his complete instructions for this here: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/batteryrelocation/underseatbattery.html The only deviations I made from his method were to route the cable through the interior and through the drivers side firewall instead of underneath the car, and I then brought the positive terminal into a sealed junction box on the inside of the front drivers side fender just underneath the relay bracket. Here's a great picture I nabbed while I happened to have the engine out: I'm pretty sure I picked this up at a local Lowes or Home Depot, but I haven't been able to find it again. So at least here's a link to something similar that I did find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Position-Terminals-Electric-Junction/dp/B012NJUUG4 I further followed in Zeebuck's footsteps and installed the larger 80-amp alternator from a 318i, in order to have enough overhead to power all of the additional electronic components for EFI and engine management systems I'd be adding. Again, his guide for this is already complete and excellent, so I'll point you to that write up here: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html Lastly, I added a small additional blade fuse box (picked it up either from Autozone or Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Blade-Indicator-Protection/dp/B00QMTAZ1W) up in the front of the car to provide the fused terminals for the forthcoming additional electronics. The +12V supply for this fuse box is provided from a relay which is switched by the ignition. The stock 2002 ignition switch actually powers a LOT of things directly and needs to handle fairly high current. This isn't exactly desirable, and you certainly don't want to any more load to this poor 40 year old switch, so please heed this advice and use a relay for this job, and do NOT power any additional electronics directly from the ignition switch. On square-light vehicles, you'll be looking for a solid green wire from the ignition switch to run the coil (terminal 85 or 86) on the relay. You can find this wire several places; it supplies fuses #4 and #12, powers the stock ignition coil, and runs to the lights and turn signals. Something else I should add here is that the stock wiring for the headlights is not that great, as the headlight switch must switch the full load for the headlights, some 20 amps! Although there are relays in the circuit, they aren't used as relays should be. As such, I took the opportunity to rewire the entire relay area and put in a new relay box to house everything. I mention this not because it's necessary for EFI, but because it's what you'll see in all of my pictures and wiring diagrams, so you need to know what you're looking at. Here's my full wiring schematic and final product, for those interested: Relay_wiring.pdf One final note in this section, and that's regarding electrical connections. You can continue to use plain old spade terminals for just about everything, but as this project involves a lot more wires and connections than the original system, I found it easier to buy a kit full of Weatherpack connectors to make multi-wired connections. My new fuse box for example uses two 5-wire connectors (white in the photo) to hook up the 10 wires coming from the relays to the wiring harness. (I think I ran the ground wire individually). If you want to take a similar route, here's a good Weatherpack starter kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-Performance-Products-Weatherpack-Starter/dp/B0081ZY4EY Section III - Wideband O2 sensor This is the final stand-alone part that is key to running EFI, but also equally useful for tuning a carburetor-equipped car. There are two basic types of O2 sensors, narrow- and wide-band. Narrow band sensors check if there is any un-burnt oxygen in the exhaust stream and report that back as either a rich or lean condition. Wideband sensors on the other hand are a little more sophisticated and report back just how much rich or lean the engine is running. The target here is an air/fuel ratio in the range of 12~15 (depending on exact conditions) which represents the point at which both all fuel and all oxygen are burned. For either a carb or EFI, this feedback lets you see under which operating conditions you should change the amount of fuel flow to your engine to try to maintain this perfect balance all the time. With EFI, it's as easy as adjusting the numbers in the tuning software, and for a carb it means trying out some different jets. It can also be used in EFI for closed-loop feedback, where the engine management system will automatically make fueling adjustments on the fly based on what the oxygen sensor is seeing. I installed the fairly common LC-1 wideband kit from Innovate: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php There are many others, some probably better and some worse, but I chose this one as it was not hideously expensive and because it provides two analog outputs, one of which goes to Megasquirt and the other which can drive the gauge in the cockpit. The important points to remember for installing an Oxygen sensor are: - Mount the O2 sensor in the upper half of the exhaust pipe, at a point AFTER the exhaust streams from all 4 cylinders have come together. Here's what mine looks like right by the front of the transmission: - Make sure to program BOTH of the two analog outputs for 0-5V. As received one of the two outputs is programmed to function like a narrow band instead of a wideband. - I mounted the control unit on the passenger side of the engine bay just in front of the firewall. You can see it in this picture zip tied to the lip just above the distributor area: Section IV - Ignition (NOTE: If you are only interested in ignition control and want to keep your car carbureted, there is a system called Megajolt which is similar to Megasquirt but only for ignition control without EFI: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/megajolte/) Ok, now we have reached the first major decision point in the project. It's time to decide what type of ignition system you'd like to run. I'm going to assume that you want SOME type of electronically controlled ignition, as this project would pretty much be a waste otherwise. Here are the three main options that I know of to choose from: 1.) 123/TUNE - https://www.123ignitionshop.com/gb/tune-bmw/106-123tune4rvbmw.html This option has the advantage of being stand-alone, you could install this straight away on a stock car and be done if you wanted and not bother with EFI. It also very stock looking, and works wonderfully with a Bosch blue coil. If you looking for something quick and turnkey, this is what I would probably recommend. However, if you plan to continue on with a Megasquirt EFI installation, I would instead recommend going with one of the next next two options. 1.) Megasquirt direct coil control - This is basically the same as the 123Tune setup, with the only differences being you will instead use your stock distributor (it's only purpose here is to direct the spark to the correct plug), and you will program the timing through Megasquirt, which will then directly control the firing of the ignition coil. NOTE: you will need to make sure your Megasquirt control board is built properly to support this. Here's the link to the direct coil control section in the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vb921.htm 3.) Ford EDIS - Don't let the Ford brand name dissuade you, this is a truly elegant and awesome ignition system! It is a distributor-less system that works in a wasted-spark configuration, so the only inputs it needs are crank position and RPM, and it can be easily driven by Megasquirt with whatever advance curve you desire. If you're going EFI, and especially if you're using Megasquirt, this is the way to go. The parts are readily available, usually quite cheap, and it integrates perfectly in with MS. I will detail out its parts and installation below. NOTE: you will need to make sure your Megasquirt control board is built properly to support this. Here's the link to the EDIS section of the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 4.) Coil on Plug (COP) - You may by all means pursue and COP system and drive it with Megasquirt, and I think several 2002 owners have done so. But my advice on this one is frankly don't bother and just stick with the Ford EDIS. I won't dissuade you if COP is what you want, but I feel there's basically no advantages for using it in a 2002, and here are my reasons. COP is mainstream today because it offers several advantages on MODERN cars. These include things like no HT wires (which interfere with AM radio reception), longer dwell times to make a more powerful spark, and the ability to control the ignition on each individual cylinder, including things like multiple ignition events. But in order to control just one cylinder at a time, we need to know which one of the two paired cylinders (2 or 3 and 1 or 4) is on it's compression stroke vs. exhaust stroke. This generally requires a camshaft position sensor (as far as I know impossible to install on a 2002), or requires the signal from the distributor (to identify which cylinder should be firing), but to me that's just hokey to still have the distributor as part of a distributor-less ignition setup. The way around this, and how the Ford EDIS works, is to utilize what is known as a wasted-spark configuration, where the spark is fired for both paired cylinders (based just on crankshaft position), and the spark for the cylinder on its exhaust stroke is therefore 'wasted.' COP can be set up in a wasted spark configuration also, but now the advantages of longer dwell time and individual cylinder control are negated, and it's really no different than the Ford EDIS setup, just more complicated. Unless of course, you strongly value AM radio. Here's a link to the best thread I've come across on this topic, should you decide you'd like to research the topic further: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/180502-individual-coil-on-plug-cop-option/ Installing MS-controlled EDIS in the 2002 If you'll take my recommendation, this is the way to go, and here's how you accomplish this: 1.) Read and understand the EDIS section in the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 2.) Trigger wheel - As I mentioned in the coolant section, the easiest way to do this is to buy the correct crank pulley with the trigger wheel already on it from 02Again (http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358). Sadly, this option was not available to me when I started my project, so instead I had a local shop turn a collar for me to mount a scavenged Ford trigger wheel to a stock E30 crank pulley. But I can tell you the next time that I have the radiator out of the car for some reason, I'm going seize the opportunity to upgrade to the 02again pulley/wheel! Anyway, here's how mine looks like currently: If you look closely in the picture, you can see a small white arrow on the wheel where one tooth is missing, and this is lined up with the #1 cylinder TDC mark on the crankshaft. This missing tooth tells the EDIS brain where TDC is, and then it 'counts' each tooth as it moves past the sensor so that it always knows what position the engine is in, and can decide when to fire the spark accordingly. The sensor should be mounted so that is lined up with the 5th tooth AHEAD of the gap when the missing tooth is at TDC. There's a 'trigger offset' parameter in the Megasquirt software to adjust this if it's not perfect, but it's wise to still try to get it pretty close, so that the EDIS will function correctly in 'limp home' mode. This is a built-in backup where, if for some reason there is no signal from Megasquirt as to what timing is desired, the EDIS will default to simply firing consistently at a static 10deg BTDC. This means the car will still be able to run on just EDIS alone, albeit not very well at higher revs and at a loss of power, but it's great for testing to make sure everything is working and just in case something should go wrong. NOTE: If you have or desire air conditioning in your car, that complicates matters as the compressor pulley is right were we want to mount the trigger wheel. I think this is still possible, but will likely require a different trigger wheel and some extra ingenuity and custom work on your part. 3.) Crank position sensor - Should be pretty obvious by this point, this is the VR sensor that senses the teeth on the crank trigger wheel and sends the signal back to the EDIS brain. There's a link to the right sensor on the above mentioned 02again website, and the right connector I know can be sourced here: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/ford-crank-position-sensor-pigtail/ The only two things to remember here are to make sure that the sensor wires are shielded to prevent electrical noise in the signal, and to set gap between the sensor and the wheel teeth to about 1mm. 4.) EDIS module, coil pack, and wires - Honestly your best bet for the module these days is probably Ebay, although if you have a local salvage yard that you like to frequent, look for an early 90s Ford Escort/Mercury Tracer to liberate these parts from. You'll want the EDIS-4 module, connector, and coil pack connector (don't bother with the donor coil pack or plug wires themselves, see below). Should look like this: The original Ford coil pack and wires are ludicrously difficult to mount, but fortunately more user-friendly brand new options are available for cheap, such as this coil pack from Amazon for just $20: https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Mazda-Mercury-Compatible-C1341/dp/B00FRLQKUQ To install this coil pack, I *think* I purchased this wonderful mount from 02Again, but I don't see it listed on the website, so you might need to inquire. It mounts in the stock distributor location, nicely plugging the hole for the now unnecessary distributor while maintaining a stock-ish look: For plug wires, the *RIGHT* set to look for is a 2001-2003 Ford Taurus 3.0L V6 with 24V/DOHC. This will fit both that coil and the 2002 cylinder head. Do NOT get wires from the very similar 3.0L SOHC V6 from the same vintage Tauruses!!! Here's what I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-82633 Here's how my wires look installed, note the use of the E30 exhaust manifold gasket with the extra exhaust heat shield: 5.) Wiring - This is pretty straight forward, just follow the diagram below. EDIS pins 1 and 3 to Megasquirt pins 24 and 36, VR sensor goes to EDIS pins 5 and 6, both paired shields go to pin 7, pin 8 gets +12V (from the new fuse panel), 9 is ground, and 10 and 12 go to the coils: NOTE: This is important to keep your tachometer working! The Megamanual presents a schematic using some diodes to tie the output of the two coils together to drive the tachometer, but I worked for months on this and could never get it to work properly. I think the flyback voltage that the stock tach wants to see is higher than what makes it through the diodes. What DID work for me in the end is actually much simpler. EDIS pin #11 (CTO) is the tach signal output. This with a big NON-POLARIZED capacitor (I used 0.068uF) in the line directly drives my tachometer perfectly throughout the whole rev range! In this picture, you can see where I mounted the EDIS module to the firewall and you can even see the orange capacitor dangling down just below the module on the yellow wire, before it plugs into the original factory tachometer wiring: Section V - Megasquirt controller This will be a pretty short section, as you only have two major decisions to make here: Which version of Megasquirt and do you want to buy: a turnkey pre-assembled module or the kit and build/solder your own? I built my own; mostly for the fun of it, but it was also a bit cheaper. But if you don't like soldering or are in a hurry, it's probably worth the extra $200 to buy the pre-assembled version. There may be other sources, but the main one that I know of and would recommend for all Megasquirt kits is www.DIYautotune.com. Here's a short list of the options and my thoughts on each of them: Megasquirt I - This is the cheapest option at only around $200 for the kit, and it does in fact have all the capability necessary to run a naturally aspirated 2002 withEFI and spark via EDIS, making this a perfectly acceptable route for a budget build. I would however in general recommend stepping up to MS2 for most people, primarily because the MS2 community is larger and therefore it's easier to find answers than for MS1. I also think the MS1 processor is now obsolete and no longer supported. MS1 DIY kit: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-i-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-kit-w-black-case/ MS1 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-i-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-assembled-unit/ Megasquirt II - This was my pick because it's far cheaper than MS3, has all the capability you could ever need for a 2002 (including forced induction, etc), and a nice large support community. As far as assembly time, I think it took me about a month working about an hour or so at a time several evenings a week. It's definitely time consuming, but an absolutely tremendous learning experience for both the principals of EFI/engine control as well as electronics in general, which is what made it worth it for me. I feel that the knowledge gained here makes the tuning process vastly easier to tackle when that time comes. MS2 DIY kit: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-kit-w-black-case/ MS2 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-ems-system-smd-pcb3-57-assembled-ecu Microsquirt - This is basically the same thing as a pre-assembled MS2 but in a smaller package and slightly cheaper. I think the one drawback is that it needs and additional module to support idle control with a stepper motor. Since I've already had the fun and learning of building one MS2 setup, I would give Microsquirt some serious consideration if I were ever to do a second car. Microsquirt: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-engine-management-system-w-8-39-wiring-harness/ Megasquirt III - While the capabilities of MS3 are truly awesome, I think it's really hard to justify the additional cost for use on an M10 engine. Features like 8-cylinder sequential injector control, 4-bank wankel control, water injection, nitrous, CAN-bus support, etc. are just, well, unnecessary for a 2002. But if for some reason you are interested in going this route, here's a link. MS3 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-iii-ems-system-v3-57-assembled-unit-w-black-case/ The last main thing you'll need is the MS wiring harness, which I STRONGLY recommend you just buy instead of make. For $80, you get the right connector complete with 10 feet of high quality, different colored and labeled wires. You just can't beat that! https://www.diyautotune.com/product/10-39-megasquirt-wiring-harness-ms1-ms2-ms3-ready/ Once you've sourced or built your Megasquirt board, don't forget that before sealing it up in it's enclosure that you'll need to load some firmware on it. There are two main types of firmware: 1.) 'Stock' firmware (use MegaTune software for tuning) 2.) MS/Extra firmware (use TunerStudio software for tuning) I used the stock code and MegaTune and now that I'm used to it and have the car running great I'm not going to bother changing, but for new builds I would recommend using the MS/Extra code and TunerStudio. It recent years it seems to have 'won out' in the mainstream and for all intents and purposes, it's just better. Instructions and source for stock firmware: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/install.htm Instructions and source for MS/Extra firmware: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/documentation/diypnp-v1-5/loading-firmware/ Optionally, you might find it useful to also pick up the Stimulator. This neat little doodad runs on a 9V battery and plugs into the Megasquirt controller and simulates all of the various engine systems (e.g. RPM, MAP, temperature, AFR, etc.) This allows you to fully bench-test and program your Megasquirt so that you know it basically works BEFORE you start hacking into your actual car. Below is a picture of my just-completed MS2 on it's first test run using the Stimulator. Boy, I can still remember bouncing off the walls with happiness that evening! https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-stimulator-v2-2-assembled-unit/ Section VI - EFI Hardware Here's where things start to get fun, installing the major components needed for EFI, but this is also sort of a point of no return, so make sure you have your Megasquirt controller working, all of the parts ready, and enough down time lined up before you pull the trigger. We'll start with the list of parts/hardware needed, and then go into the details of each: 1.) Intake manifolds 2.) Throttle bodies 3.) Individual throttle bodies (ITBs) 4.) Fuel rail & injectors 5.) Fuel pump 6.) Additional sensors 7.) Idle control 8.) Megasquirt controller and wiring harness 9.) Miscellaneous NOTE: Plan out and source everything before installing anything, and then start with the wiring (step 8.) first! 1a.) Plenum intake manifolds - For a more tii look, I think it's possible to use an E21 320i intake manifold or even a 2002tii manifold, but I'm not going to recommend that as I have no idea how to get the right fuel rail or injectors for it, but I think it has been done before. For 95% of us, the E30 318i intake is the way to go. It's basically plug-n-play, and is fantastically engineered by those Bavarians for off-the-chart fantastic mid-range performance. I'd guess less than $50 on ebay or from junkyards. Just one personal request, please take the time to clean up and paint your manifold. It's easy to do before installing it, and makes it everything look so much better! 2.) Throttle body - If you pick up a manifold with the 318i throttle body already on it, then great! For a stock to mildly-modified engine this will work just fine. Megamanual calculator says this should be fine up to 116 horsepower. If you plan for your engine to go above that however, you'll probably want a slightly larger one from either the 325e or 325is. Here's a link to a detailed run down of each and, as always, there's a wonderful adapter plate available at 02again.com! http://mybmw1600-2.blogspot.com/2011/08/throttle-bodies.html http://www.02again.com/?page_id=30 While you're shopping on 02again there are some other accessories that you'll probably want to order as well, including the IAC adapter (for idle control), the throttle position sensor mount, and again though this isn't on the website I think I sourced this nice set of aluminum plugs from there for plugging up all of the various unused ports on the TB. One note, I did need to backfill some of the openings with epoxy, as the plugged holes would whistle something fierce at certain throttle positions! 3.) - ITBs - For those that desire more top end horsepower than mid-rage torque, there are several ITB options for EFI out there. Having previously loved dual DCOEs, I've often toyed with this idea, but for me I think it will need to be done on a different car. There simply isn't enough room in the 2002 engine bay to get long enough runners on ITBs to match the mid-range performance of the impeccably designed 318 manifold, so in my opinion ITBs are a better match for an engine build that's designed for a >4000 RPM power band. But if you have high compression pistons (10.0:1 or greater), a rather aggressive cam (292 or greater), and some porting, this will likely be the route you want to pursue. I know of two vendors (formerly TWM, now Borla, and Dbilas) that market EFI throttle bodies with mounting geometry that matches DCOE carburetors, so if you already happen to have a manifold for dual sidedrafts, this becomes rather straight forward. The TWM/Borla parts are found here: http://www.borlainduction.com/2900-series.html and are probably the way to go if you already have a sidedraft manifold. If you don't already have a manifold, then I would probably go for the Dbilas kit, as it comes with everything including the throttle bodies: http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Throttle-body-kit/Street/BMW/M10/Mutli-throttle-intake-system-for-1602-1802-2002-316-318-518-520-E21-E30-1-5-2-0-8V-M10::10351.html Lastly, I have also toyed with the idea of running just one of these throttle bodies on the Lynx single-sidedraft manifold that I have. I've done some calculations and think it should work, but would take some pretty specific selection of injectors and fuel control setup. If you want to experiment with this, contact me directly for the specifics as I don't want to bore everybody with the math here, but in case this peaks your interest, here's the link to the manifold: https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/conversion-kits/bmw-2002-320i-m10-engine-single-sidedraft-dcoe-conversion-kits.html I won't go into much more detail on ITBs here as there is already a good writeup on this from Johnup, so see here for further reading on the subject: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/2002-carby-to-itb-megasquirt-injection-r19/ 4a.) Fuel Rails - Unfortunately I can't offer much help with fuel rails for E21 or tii manifold setups, but the others are easy; the ITB vendors all supply their own rails and the 318 intake uses the stock 318 rail including fuel pressure regulator. Again you can clean up and use the one from a donor vehicle or buy new parts. Here are links to the right parts from ECS, but I think local dealer pricing is also decent on these parts, with the added bonus of offering a CCA discount: Fuel rail: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fuel-rail/13531707731/ Fuel pressure regulator: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/30-bar-fuel-pressure-regulator/13531722040~bos/ Injector retainer clips: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fuel-injector-clip-priced-each/13531274729/ (DON'T FORGET THESE CLIPS, otherwise the rail can pop off of the injectors, dumping high pressure fuel into you engine bay, ask me how I know!) 4b.) Injectors - You'll need to estimate your engines peak horsepower for this, but once you do that the rest is easy. The important thing to remember is to get the SMALLEST injector that you can which still flows enough fuel at peak horsepower. The reason not to oversize much on the injectors is because then the pulse width will get very very short at idle, making it both difficult to tune and not as smooth of an idle as is possible with the smaller sized injectors. Here are my guidelines: Up to 130HP get 19# Bosch yellow tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-yellow-top-19lb-fuel-injector 130-150HP get 21# Bosch pink tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bmw-0280150440-pink-top-13641703819 150-165HP get 24# Bosch blue tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/24lb-bosch-fuel-injector-0280150947-blue-top Here's the correct EV1 connector for all of the above Bosch injectors: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1/ And lastly here's the fuel injector in the MegaManual for more information: http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb 5.) Fuel pump - We need to pause here and again give thanks to the old generation of Bavarian engineers, who developed stuff that just plain worked and then didn't feel the need to mess with things every few months just for the hell of it! It is because of this that we have the very great fortune of having a high pressure fuel injection pump available that drops straight into the 2002 fuel tank with no modifications whatsoever! Obviously the E30 is once again our benefactor, and ebay and junkyards are the best budget options. The pump is available new and not too expensive from off-brand manufactures, but the sending unit for the fuel gauge (which ALSO works perfectly with the 2002 gauge, as hard as that is to believe) I only see listed as 'genuine BMW' for lots o' $$$. Here's the link to ECS with the various options: https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318is-M42_1.8L/Search/SiteSearch/Fuel_Pump/ Note: there are two versions of the hanger, one with a return fitting and one without, so check to see if your tank has a return fitting on the tank itself. If it does, here's the version with only the supply fitting: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vemo-parts/fuel-pump-assembly/16141184022~vmo/ You will need to install another relay to power the fuel pump (power for it can come from that nice new fuse panel), and this relay's negative coil will be controlled by Megasquirt. I did something pretty clever with the wiring here: since my rear window defrost wires were all rotted and non-functioning, I used those existing defrost wires to run back to the fuel pump instead of trying to run a new set of wires back through the whole length of the car. All installed, mine looks like this: Other than a short priming pulse at start-up, MS will not run the pump unless there is an RPM signal >0. While this is moderately safe, additional oil pressure and/or roll-over sensors can be added as further safety measures to cut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. And as always, here's the link the fueling section of the Megamanual: http://www.useasydocs.com/details/fuelsys.htm IMPORTANT: You MUST run new fuel line rated for high pressure fuel injection for the supply line from the tank to the fuel rail! If you have a late-model Sqaurie, you can cheat a little by swapping things and using the steel RETURN line on the driver's side of the car for the supply, and then running the low pressure return through the plastic line the runs through the passenger side interior. Be sure to run all new fuel injection rated rubber lines everywhere on the high pressure supply though, and certainly do NOT use the stock plastic line for the supply! 6.) Sensors - EFI requires a few extra sensors than what were normally included on cars in the 70s, so here's the list of additional input sensors that you'll need to plan on adding: a.) Coolant temperature - See previous coolant section, use the E30 temp sensor in the coolant divider neck, and program the temperature curve in Megasquirt. b.) Throttle position sensor - Use the TPS sensor from a late 80s Nissan 300Z with the adapter mount from 02again.com c.) Oxygen sensor - See above, use and Innovate LC-1 or similar heated wideband O2 sensor with 0-5v analog output. d.) Inlet air temperature sensor - Use this open element GM sensor somewhere in the intake track before the throttle body and program temperature curve in Megasquirt: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/ 7.) Idle control - The two basic options for idle control are a fast idle solenoid and a stepper motor idle air control valve. If you've got the 318i intake route, your job is again ridiculously easy as you can just get the adapter block from 02again.com (I told you at the beginning this was a great place for this project!) and the proper 90s Jeep stepper motor. Wire it up according the the Megasquirt wiring diagram for a stepper IAC and here are the 02again installation instructions: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/IAC-Control-Block-Installation-Instructions.pdf If you are not using the 318i manifold, then a fast idle solenoid is likely easier to install as it can be plumbed in with hoses, but this pretty much exhausts my knowledge of fast idle solenoids here, and I also unfortunately have no idea how to approach idle control with ITBs. On a side note, if you use the stepper motor, Megasquirt allows you to configure your unused fast idle output for other purposes; I have mine set up to control my electric cooling fan! Megamanual link to idle control: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm 8.) Megasquirt controller and wiring harness - Maybe I should have put this further up, because these are really the FIRST pieces of hardware that you'll want to install, on the other hand you need to already have planned out all of the above hardware and options before installing anything. Anyway, once you know what hardware you're going to use, how everything will be plumbed, where all of the sensors will go, and so on; you should then start laying out the wiring harness. It's easiest to do this with all of the old hardware out of the way so you can really work at tucking the wires back out of the way to keep things clean looking. I recommend laying out all of the wires individually, and then wrapping them/sheathing them in conduit in sections. Obviously if you haven't already ridded your car of all of the obscene 70's emissions junk, then do this concurrently, as reuse those same wiring clips for the new stuff. The Megasquirt controller needs to be mounted in the car's interior (it's not meant to survive in the engine bay environment), so this means making one big hole somewhere in the fire wall big enough to pull the whole wiring harness through. The best spot I found for this was on the passenger's side high up in the foot well, just underneath where the brake lines come across (obviously be careful not to drill through your brake lines!) I also used a small bit of coolant hose as a grommet: NOTE: Since you'll likely have purchased a wiring harness with the Megasquirt DB39 connector already on one end, this means you'll need to feed the whole length of the harness through the firewall from inside to outside, and this takes some patience! Besides the harness, you also need to run a vacuum line through the firewall to get Megasquirt the MAP signal. I was able to do this right along side the plastic fuel return line, thereby saving drilling an additional hole. Once the whole harness is through the firewall, you can start routing all of the individual wires. Once you have everything laid out, the next step is to install all of the proper connectors on the ends, and then finally wrap and tuck all of the various branches. Here's how my finished wiring harness looked laid out in the engine bay before installing any of the hardware: It's trickier than it sounds to layout wiring cleanly, so take your time with this process, make good soldered connections, cover them in heat-shrink tubing, and wrap/tape up conduit joints and ends, and you'll end up very pleased with how much cleaner the whole engine bay looks in the end! Here's a copy of the general Megasquirt wiring diagram (including EDIS) that's a good one to work from: As I mentioned the MS controller box itself needs to be mounted in the interior of the car. Many people choose to mount it inside the glove box which works just great, but I didn't want to give up that much real estate in my glove box so instead I chose to mount mine on top of the transmission tunnel behind the center console where, as long as the car has no A/C, affords a good bit of space. I did later end up also installing an amp for my built-in Android tablet here and an RS232-to-Bluetooth adapter for wireless connectivity to Megasquirt (https://www.efianalytics.com/products/class1Bluetooth.html), at which point I moved the MS module up on to the face of the heater core box (having already had the heater box out once, that's not a job I plan to EVER do again on this car!) 9.) Miscellaneous - Probably the two most difficult parts of this installation, at least for me, were the intake plumbing to the throttle body and the throttle linkage. The stock E30 intake boots/etc. obviously will fit, but I didn't have this so I managed to cobble together a decent setup using the generi
  6. So, this project has been on hold for a while as my next big step is to really learn how to properly tune MegaSquirt, and I just haven't had the time to commit to that. But, I had a couple hours today which I spent casting a proper delete plate for my distributor. This is my first sand casting using a core (to create the hollow for the cam end). You'll see there's a little divot at the upper left. This is where I can drill and tap for the oil pressure sender, although I may end up moving that over to the oil filter housing. That's it for now. Jesse.
  7. So, I've been busy selling off some of my cars, and haven't really been giving this project as much time as I'd like. But, I managed to finish the wiring harness and start the engine this week. I've updated the wiring diagram in the first post to reflect the current configuration. After the successful start, I'm taking some time to reconfigure my engine stand set-up so that it will be less ad hoc during the tuning phase. Here is an overview shot of the engine as it sits this evening: I ended up going with pencil coils on plug from a 2003-04 Honda CBR600RR motorcycle. I used a Bosch 0 227 100 211 igniter from a late '90s / early 2000s Volkwagon to fire the coils based on logic-level waste-spark signals from the MicroSquirt board. They are so low-profile: For injectors, I used 19#/hr units that are much cheaper when you buy the rebuilt "Ford" versions on eBay (p/n 0280150943). I discovered that you can't re-pin the OEM AMP connectors in the BMW harness, so I bought new AMP Junior Timer Power connectors and terminals from Mouser for both the injectors and the ECU temperature sender: Here is the PWM-driven idle air control valve, from a Geo Metro / Suzuki Swift 1.0L engine, mounted to a boss under the intake manifold. I am honestly not sure if it's working. The open-pipe first run was very loud and necessarily brief as I have no radiator installed. it remains to be seen whether this can move enough air to control the idle: Here you can see the throttle body, TPS with adapter from 02again, and GM air temperature sensor (next to the dip stick): I had the wiring tidy for the start, but then jumbled it in moving the engine around the shop this morning. I need to create a little panel/console to mount everything to so that everything remains orderly: That's the news for now. The first start was so easily achieved, but the real work is really in this next phase of tuning. Especially given that while I am experienced with building wiring harnesses, I know next to nothing about tuning MegaSquirt. Jesse.
  8. So, this week I found time to finish machining my 36-1 teeth into the stock pulley and cast two more pieces for the EFI conversion. First is a bracket to hold the crank sensor from DIY AutoTune: Second is a small plate with a port to connect to a Suzuki Swift IAC (idle air control) valve. I'm not 100% sure that this IAC will allow enough air flow for the M10, considering it's from an engine with half the volume, but I had one easily at hand, so I'm giving it a try. I'm going to mount it to the underside of the intake using two pre-existing bosses and a custom bracket. There are two smaller ports underneath my IAC inlet plate. One goes to the fuel pressure regulator, and the other I will use to provide a MAP reading to the ECU. These two cast pieces really could be a lot more attractive and look more like "car parts" but right now I'm going for functionality and ease of production. It's amazing how quickly you can turn a piece of scrap aluminum into a usable part. The IAC plate took just 90 minutes from start to finish. I think my next step will be building the wiring harness, which will probably take a while because I will be ordering new connectors and pins to make it from scratch... I don't like splices. Jesse.
  9. So, my first specific task towards converting my M10 over to EFI was to draw up a wiring diagram for my MegaSquirt-based (more specifically, MicroSquirt v2.2 based) Stratified PNP ECU: I will update this image as I continue to refine the diagram (updated 5/22/18 to correct coil wiring). There are few enough wires involved that I can use just the big 26-pin plug going into the OEM-style connector on the ECU. I'm using the TPS from a 1984-89 Nissan 300ZX with the adapter from 02again that allows that TPS to screw right onto the BMW throttle body: It may seem unnecessary, but I made a fancy fuel pump delete plate: This is my first-ever attempt at sand-casting aluminum. I have wanted to get into sand casting for some time, and for this project in particular I want to cast a low-profile distributor delete cover. So, I started off with this much more simple fuel pump delete, using a wood-and-cardboard master, Petrobond casting sand and some scrap aluminum I got from Clint Eastwood. That's it for now.
  10. When I was running the engine on the stand, I used the default tables and only modified a handful of settings specifically to the engine. It started and ran "fine" that way. Once I moved everything into the vehicle and was ready to actually start tuning, I wanted to establish a more rational baseline to work from. The very first thing I did was upgrade my MegaSquirt firmware to the latest version. Mine was very old (3.1.0 vs. 3.4.2), and this change alone made the engine run noticeably better. I then made changes to the settings and tables following the approach of Andy Whittle on YouTube. Lastly, and this made the greatest improvement, I generated a new initial ignition table. You can watch Andy's initial setup how-to video here. In just 11 minutes he walks you through the key initial settings that are specific to your engine and sensors. Since I am not running boost, his instructions on how to change the scales of the MS tables to give greater resolution for N/A builds was a nice insight. If you've done a MegaSquirt build before, there is really nothing new here, but for us first-timers, it's a concise, helpful walk-through. For an initial ignition table, this tool is really handy. The table it generated with M10 specific information was radically different from the default table and dramatically improved running and driving. In the image below you can see the data for the M10 typed into the tool. Your idle vacuum may vary. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, you can calculated the idle vacuum from the MS MAP reading like this: Your in-Hg of vacuum at idle = 0.346 * (100 - your kpa of MAP at idle). I made one more change after driving around for a bit, which was to turn Overrun Fuel Cut-off on with a delay of 0.5 seconds. This eliminated deceleration backfiring, which was really intense since I was driving with no exhaust system. I hope this has been helpful. Jesse.
  11. As I suspected, the Geo Metro air control valve did not move enough air for the m10 engine. So, I got a Ford style valve and installed it. Now the engine starts and idles as it should. Here are the details of my installation. 1. I made this steel bracket to mount the IAC under the first and second tubes of the intake. You'll note that I had to grind that nubbin down a little to clear the valve body: 2. Here is the Ford idle control valve mounted to the bracket. I have this thin wall tube that has an outer diameter that is exactly 16mm. I slid short lengths of it into the ports of the IAC and fixed them with Loctite 680 retaining compound: 3. I found a hose at the auto parts store, Gates #19047, that I was able to cut up to connect the valve and the inlet on the intake. Here is the lower section: 4. I made a flange from 1/4" aluminum plate with a bored hole and another length of that 16mm O.D. tube press fit into it: 5. Here is a shot of the upper hose. It is connected to the lower hose via yet another short length of the 16mm O.D. steel tubing: This valve moves a lot of air, so the PWM duty cycle values for both start and idle are rather low. That's it for this installment. There's not really anything left to do other than tune. Jesse.
  12. This sub-project was a case of "because it's there". I'm not a seasoned mechanic by any means so this was definitely a challenge for me, but that was half the fun. I know which is the business end of a spanner/wrench, but this was a major escalation in terms of goals. I learnt a lot in the process, and made mistakes. It has been very satisfying to pull it all together. It started as a complete front suspension and steering rebuild, and snowballed from there. As I was dropping the subframe anyway, I decided the motor and trans would come out too for a cosmetic clean up. The dual DCOE carbs were leaking, so I was going to rebuild them too. Then I started reading about everyone else's EFI conversions, particularly this one: http://www.77e21.info/megasquirt.htm Mmmmm. Jenvey. So shiny. So purposeful looking. Throw in better MPG, increased tunability and more power. Hell, why not do Jenvey ITBs and Megasquirt "while I'm in there". I could get rid of the pod filters too which always annoyed me, and install some other air filter system. Here is what was addressed in this project: Convert from twin DCOEs to Jenvey ITBs Install Megasquirt and associated sensors: coolant and air temp, MAP, TPS, O2 Convert from Crane Fireball XR3000 ignition to crank fired EDIS ignition Run hard fuel lines including a return Replace the Carter external electric fuel pump with an in tank unit Install a fuel pressure regulator Install a large capacity fuel filter Replace ball joints Replace tie rods Replace center link Replace steering disc Replace engine mounts Replace strut top bearings New coil, spark plugs and plug wires Replace steering idler arm bushing (total b!tch of a project in itself) Replace soft clutch line with a stainless steel line Replace transmission mount Rebuilt shifter platform Install missing shift foam ring Rehang exhaust and finish exhaust support bracket properly Weld in subframe reinforcement for engine mount Re-wire Hella driving lights with a proper fuse and relay arrangement Re-wire electric fan to be controlled by Megasquirt Install higher output alternator to support EFI/Megasquirt Remove voltage regulator Install new starter Clean up engine bay wiring and re-wrap it Paint the oil pan, valve cover, intake manifold, subframe, strut housings, water neck, shifter platform, and pulley Clean the engine and transmission Install missing flywheel inspection cover Figure out a more effective and visually pleasing air filter Fit front strut brace This was the starting point: I took the car off the road and dropped the engine and transmission in the autumn of 2012, and started accumulating parts... ...and then promptly lost motivation. Didn't really make any progress through the summer of 2013 but got reinvigorated after going on the "Fall Tour" with the other Minnesota 02ers. I had to drive my Porsche that day, and it was a sad day. Once I got back into it, cleaning was slow and labourious, so I made the most of it with frequent refreshments: Test fitting the new 95AMP alternator from BNR: Prior to this project the engine always rocked violently which was disconcerting. Engine mounted were standard rubber units, and have been replaced with urethane. I did find one of the mounting brackets had snapped, so that was replaced also: I compartmentalized the project, and concentrated on the subframe, steering and suspension first. Here is how it looked when it came off the car: Reassembly was pretty straightforward except for the steering idler arm bushing. Another "jigsaw" pic: Although there were no cracks, I reinforced the subframe: Everything was either brand new or blasted and powder coated: It's an early car so the blue plastic steering idler arm bushings available today do not fit (too fat). W&N claimed to have the right part for the early cars, but when they arrive from Germany the diameter was correct but the length was too long. W&N bushings (expensive and not the right size!): Note one of the new style blue bushings bashed into place, since removed: I dug around in my spares and found some urethane bushings that were a close fit so it looked at the manufacturers website to see what other sizes they had: ...and I found these on sale for $10: ...and they fit like a glove: Very satisfying the have it all freshened up: Then I moved on to the ITBs and Megasquirt. I spent a small fortune at Jenvey (actually through the very helpful people at Burton Power - a must see website for any fans of Euro-Ford products) on the following: ITBs TPS TPS connector Throttle linkage Throttle linkage bracket Air horns x4 Vacuum manifold and hose Fuel rail Fuel pressure regulator Air horn spacers Instead of getting ITBs the same length as the DCOEs, I got the 91mm length ITBs to give me more room between the end of the ITBs and the brake booster: http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/twin-throttle-bodies/twin-bodies-dcoe-style-91mm-long/jenvey-dynamics/th-body-45-50mm-pair-thpxxi What about the reduced intake runner length? Well, I hope to solve that with my air filter set up. More on that later. I looked at many many filter options from Reverie, Pipercross, ITG, etc., but none really met my needs. The new alternator is deeper than the old one and the proximity of the built in voltage regulator to the end of the ITBs doesn't allow you to fit a filter baseplate to the end of the ITBs. I considered running mesh filters on the air horns once I found some in the right size (59mm diameter) but it can get dusty around here in the summer. These are the ITBs, with the fuel rail yet to be cut to size, and also with standard size injectors. Some idiot who seems pleased with his new toys: Once fitted, I wasn't happy about the mating surface between the ITBs and the intake manifolds, so I found some appropriately sized DCOE pattern spacers that also had o-rings built in. See them in this test fitting: Also note the use of pico sized injectors to ensure the fuel rail does not protrude beyond the end of the ITBs. This was so I could use a Pipercross PX600 baseplate, but notice the very tight space between the voltage regulator and the intake on cylinder #1. Spacers can be seen better in this shot: Here is the toothed wheel on the crank with the sensor test fitted: Out of pure vanity I wanted the throttle control to be under the ITBs, and Jenvey supplied a very versatile unit. Unfortunately it was too deep and interfered with the original starter, so I had to buy a new smaller starter to get it to all fit under there: At this point, the engine was petty much ready to back in. I mated the engine and trans to the subframe: Much more progress has been made than shown here, but I will save that for a later post.
  13. Complete system $300 plus shipping from NC 27305 Individual parts available: ECU's BMW or Volvo $50 each AFM $50 Wiring Harness $100 Relay packs $50 Injector rails with injectors $50 Distributor $50 Idle Valve $30 Water neck with sensors $30 PLEASE email me at [email protected] Also consider my location NC USA ZIP 27305 a complete FI system is big and heavy and you have to pay for shipping, I am not Amazon! If you are concerned with who you are dealing with, I use my real name AL TAYLOR and you can Google " Al Taylor BMW "to see that I am real. Thanks Al Taylor
  14. Does anybody have an advance curve that is anywhere close to a 292 Cam'd, Dual DCOE M10, preferably a 3D one using TPS? Maybe some of you 123tune guys?
  15. Hello everyone, I was in the process of converting my little m10 to EFI and turbocharging it but I've moved onto another project. I regretfully am selling all the bits and bobs needed to convert your 2002 and boost your hp/torque numbers, making the already thrilling '02 into something a little scarier. I never installed any parts onto my car, most are new and in their original packaging. The people have spoken and I have listened so I am now going to split everything up! SHIPPING INCLUDED to lower 48. Please read through the list of parts below and let me know if you have any questions. Prices are OBO, I'm just trying to recover most of what I had into them. PM or email me: [email protected] More pics and info upon request Thanks for looking, Cole bosch brown injectors off saab 2.3 turbo(untested): $40 for 5 BMW 325e Throttle Body: $50 BMW 325e TB to e30 manifold adapter: $50 1990 325i in tank fuel pump: $80 M10 turbo Exhaust manifold: $190 Fuse/Relay Box: $15 GM IAT sensor: $25 MS Wiring Harness: $85 MS Stimulator for MSII V3.0: $50 MSII V3.0: $540 e30 Battery Cables for trunk mount: $25 e30 coolant neck and sensors: $30 02Again FP blockoff plate: $25 02Again Crank Pulley/Trigger wheel: $200 02Again Ford EDIS-4 VR sensor locating mount: $20 02Again IAC Adapter: $75 Jeep IAC for e30 manifold: $25 25ft High Pressure Fuel Hose: $85 10ft 60psi 1/8" inner diameter Vacuum hose: $35 Innovate LC2 wideband 02 Sensor kit: $190 ARP m10 Head Studs: $190 90mm Cometic MLS Head Gasket: $170 m10 exhaust gasket: $30 Ford EDIS-4 & wiring: $50 E30 water bypass hoses and misc piping: $40 Extra 36-1 Ford EDIS Trigger wheel(just the toothed ring): $20
  16. Hello everyone, I was in the process of converting my little m10 to EFI and turbocharging it but I've moved onto another project. I regretfully am selling all the bits and bobs needed to convert your 2002 and boost your hp/torque numbers, making the already thrilling '02 into something a little scarier. I never installed any parts onto my car, most are new and in their original packaging. I'd like to keep the lot together to make shipping easier but if this post sits for a while, I'll start to split things up. Buyer pays shipping and we can go through PayPal. Please read through the list of parts below and let me know if you have any questions. Price is OBO, PM or email me: [email protected] Thanks for looking, Cole MS2 V3.0 set up for running Ford EDIS-4, stim and RS232 cable included DIY Autotune Harness with 90% of the wires cut/sized/soldered Innovate LC2 Wideband O2 kit with weldable bung E30 water bypass tube E30 coolant temp sensor housing E30 intake manifold with 325e throttle body Hyundai Elantra throttle position sensor and adapter Bosh Volvo 33lb injectors GM intake air temp sensor Jeep IAC stepper motor and 02Again mounting hardware Ford Escort EDIS-4, VR sensor w/ 02Again mounting bracket, extra 36-1 trigger wheel and coil pack/wires 02Again 36-1 trigger wheel/pulley 02Again distributor plug 02Again fuel pump block off plate 1990 325i in tank fuel pump E30 battery cables for trunk mounting your battery Garrett T25 rebuilt turbo with 3" down pipe adapter flange****needs to be balanced***(at least I would have it professionally done before installing) Misc oil feed pipes for T25 Stainless Steel Turbo headers/gasket and adapter for T25 ARP head studs for M10 Cometic MLS head gasket 27"x7"x2.5" intercooler with 2.5" pipe kit(aluminum pipe/fittings/clamps/silicone elbows and straight pieces) 2.5" Universal BOV and aluminum pipe with flange I believe this is everything I have but I may have missed mentioning some miscellaneous E30 things included
  17. I have a few of these for sale that I saved from the junkyard. Looking to clean up some garage space. These are the ones you need to go MegaSquirt / EFI on an M10 engine. $50 gets you a manifold and fuel rail. Local pickup preferred but willing to ship at your expense. The crossed out ones are no longer available. The below has been sold and shipped off:
  18. Hey everyone, I hope your holidays are going good. I got tired of seeing all these guys making it big on Youtube and not pursuing that opportunity myself. So, I finished editing my first video using some old but gold footage and made my channel today. There will be a lot of interesting stuff coming up that I'll be documenting. I'm doing an E30 DTM style trailing arm swap. I'm elbows deep in building a medium case 3 clutch LSD to go into a custom subframe. I'm going to video building an M10 from the ground up because I'm assembling my boost-ready one. There will probably be tuning related stuff coming up because I recently finished street tuning my junkyard MS2/EDIS conversion. I'm going to document the correct way to rebuild a G245 transmission without having to destroy the bearings and potentially document how to rebuild a G265 as well. There aren't instructional videos on doing either one as far as I'm aware. I'm videoing my install of E24 rear seats. I'm going to try something I've never seen done which is run a 240mm 533i flywheel on an M10. There will be motorcycle and diesel/truck related content as well. I'm not going to sit here and pretend like I'm the expert, but I've learned a lot over the years and I've always wondered where this could lead. After the car is fast, I might experiment with some of the more click-bait-ish videos too like reactions and more racing related stuff. But it's going to be a lot of technical stuff for now. Please feel free to check out my first video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dIvw1RmtZk If you want to watch more videos as I make 'em you can subscribe here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtUIrS7VHWGVv1Ho2RRd5tg If you have any pointers for my editing or ideas for videos you want to see, please let me know. Feedback is good, especially negative, because it will only motivate me to chase this more. I made an Instagram as well if you have any interest in that: https://www.instagram.com/fearlessbenjamin/ I have no idea where this could lead but I'm sure as hell going to try.
  19. I have a mid 80's 325e that a got by mistake. I was looking for a 325is throttle body and got this by mistake. Appears to work properly, not sure about Tps .Perfect for a fuel injection upgrade. $40includes shipping to the lower 48 states.
  20. So, I'm using the spare F-idle output on my megasquirt to drive the relay for my electric cooling fan, which I love except for one thing: I've found it a bit tricky to tune the megasquirt parameters to turn the fan on and off at the right temperatures (since it's driven by the sensor in the coolant divider neck), and unless I pull up MS to check, I keep worrying about driving down the highway with the fan running constantly. So today, I (over)engineered a solution! I took the cluster and gauges out, and mounted a blue LED that I had lying around inside the temperature gauge that comes on and backlights the gauge in blue when the fan comes on. I was even able to use the +12V from the gauge for the non-existent clock power so that I only had to run one extra wire. So now I'll always know whether it's on or off in a very unobtrusive way while I get just the right temperature settings dialed in! Overkill solution to not a very significant issue, I know, but hey, I still proud and very happy how it all turned out! -Carl
  21. This is a ’83 320i I am selling as a whole or parts. You will probably do better as a whole. It has a 5 Speed transmission and a pretty solid body. It was being prepped for racing so it has a fuel cell instead of a stock tank. Someone has removed the stock fuel injection setup for a Weber carb (IDK why). Oh by the way, the car runs fine. I am starting out with selling the obvious. 5 Speed Transmission and Drive shaft - $1200 obo. Serious buyers just make me an offer…you can just take the whole car. I live in the Atlanta area…
  22. This is a ’83 320i I am selling as a whole or parts. You will probably do better as a whole. It has a 5 Speed transmission and a pretty solid body. It was being prepped for racing so it has a fuel cell instead of a stock tank. Someone has removed the stock fuel injection setup for a Weber carb (IDK why). Oh by the way, the car runs fine. I am starting out with selling the obvious. 5 Speed Transmission and Drive shaft - $1200 obo. Serious buyers just make me an offer…you can just take the whole car. I live in the Atlanta area…
  23. Should the ignition table for EDIS be adjusted when switching from a single inlet to individual inlets? I'm thinking single carbs and throttle bodies versus sidedrafts and ITBs. I am transferring an EDIS system from an M10 that ran with a single 32/36 weber to an M10 with DCOMs. Should any adjustments be made in the MAP/advance table?
  24. Curious as to how other people with the 318 'upside down' manifold are doing their fresh air intakes. I figured out something that works pretty well with off the shelf autozone parts, but I admit it's a little ghetto fabulous. I have the modular Spectra piping with a 90 degree silicone boot, and then I put a wooden block on the end of the air intake with a little hole in it that engages with a bolt that I put through an existing hole through the nose sheet metal to hold it in place and support the weight there at the air cleaner end. Gets plenty of fresh air there but also gets some spill over air from the radiator as my IAT is usually ~15-20 warmer than ambient. So anyway, I feel this is a decent cheap and dirty way to do it, but what other more elegant solutions are out there?
  25. Anyone know a source for a crank pulley already machined to accept a trigger wheel? Ireland Engineering is out of stock of theirs, and Tom at 02Again stopped making the ones he was selling. VAC Motorsports sells one but it is pretty pricy at $250... I have on old two-belt pulley that I press-fit and JB-welded a trigger wheel to, but I was hoping for a lighter weight alternative (and ideally a smaller diameter under-drive pulley). Rob


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.