oldguy

betcha $10 that if it poked a hole in the rim like that, the caliper is also bent and will require replacement.

It's on a 1.5 Megawatt generator's V16 Caterpillar diesel. The engine and generator are about the size of an 02, not to mention the muffler, which dwarfs my refrigerator. We've done a couple of of locomotives for bombardier and they are HUGE. A 44oz big gulp will fit in the compressor outlet.

it's worn ring lands.. old pistons..

Lemme explain. A longer rod allows for a slowed rate of rod to piston angle when the piston reaches the top. IE. A piston with a 2" rod vs a piston with a 6" rod. The 2" one in relation to crankshaft angle degrees, push the piston to the top and abruptly jerk it right back down. The 6" rod has a much longer transition from going up to going down and thus does not jerk as hard on the rod. Resulting in less overall piston acceleration and less wear. This is important due to the relatively long stroke of the m10 motor compared to say a honda. Here are all the differences. http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performance/tech_articles/engine-tech/rod-ratio/index.htm http://www.rustpuppy.org/rodstudy.htm

the mx5 rear coil overs were a neat idea but he still doesn't get it. Build a $20k drift car and then try and use a stock motor. Buy used motor. Doesn't last season. Buy new (used) motor. Don't upgrade important things. Send rod through block Buy new (used) motor. Don't upgrade important things. Melt two pistons. After all the travel, entry fee's, track time, tires, waste all that money to show up and dnf.

02robert I am interested in a set of them and camshaft, you seem to be much further along than I am. I would like to discuss some things with you if possible. Please email me at khengineering@gmail.com Thanks Kris

the headers in the wheel well give the v8 away in the first series of pics

There is no point in trying to diagnose issues such as lose of power and WOT issues if you don't have them synchronized. People will get into the voodoo of these carbs and start going for all sorts of things like, wires pulling due to engines twisting on mounts and all sorts of crap that doesn't happen. Hopes and dreams stuff. The fact the issue comes at high G's and your car breaks up, I'm going to just go on the record and say, some where it's not getting fuel and the reason the plugs look lean is due to the fact that the front carb is furthest from the fuel supply and is not receiving enough petrol. The back is hogging the lions share. Here are some issues. You're trying to race with a street car ignition system. Red coil vs blue coil etc. Throw it out. Get a real coil, real ignition pickup and go or if it wasn't a problem before with the tii motor then it shouldn't be a problem now and quit throwing so many variables in there. When people start changing parts at random, more issues happen. If you can't time your car. Install a piston stop. Degree it and mark TDC with yellow paint marker and a chisel on the front crank in relation to a pointer. You're not johny homebrew, no one uses the ball on the flywheel. Fuel pump/fuel pressure. You do not need a holly red pump to feed a set of DCOE's. A tiny self regulating electric pump will work just fine. If you want something more robust, walbro makes a series of industrial/marine self regulating fuel pumps. $120 gets you the most expensive that will flow 35GPH which is more than enough for your application. There's no need to re-invent the wheel and make things more complicated than they are. Incase you're wondering, you check fuel pressure at the carbs, not before the regulator. Also fuel cell. If your racing, then you've got a fuel cell. A proper fuel setup for a race motor with carbs should be like this. Fuel cell to y pipe. Y pipe to two independent raycor fuel filters. Each filter then feeds it's own fuel pump. Pump 1 is what you normally run on and pump 2 is a backup to switch to. Those pumps then feed into a y fitting and then go upto the motor. There is no need for additional fuel filters, inline filters or regulators. That's as simple as it gets. Now with todays modern gasohol, it would not be surprising if you've either got loose fuel foam or degrading fuel foam. If you had 5 gallons of fuel, g loading is not an issue. These motors are not eating gas but lightly sipping it. This isn't a 700hp v8 gt1 car. Open up your cell, check that your foam is secure and is not flaking off in bits. Sort your fuel system and fuel pump. Measure your fuel pressure. Once you've got that stabilized and your carbs synced. Then work on your g-load issue. Right now you've got to many variables.

Seriously. He's having high RPM issues and Syncro Issues and you pick that his idle jet "looks lean". DCOE's with trumpets do not have rear carb less air issues. It's never been a problem in an 02 engine bay. Yes he should first try and find a .020" drill bit and then drill aluminum with it. Please tell us at what RPM should you drive a bit that small and the 100% chance it will break trying to drill cast aluminum. A dremil will not turn it fast enough.

Twisted throttle shaft can. Bent throttle plate can. that unisyn tool is virtually worthless. When I fiddled with them I used the above tool at a minimum. There are fancier ones for motorcycles that work as well. That one above is $40 I think. Allows you to quantify your "difference" and not get into Ball is at x line. Mine would sometimes by off by a few at idle but once the plate was opened slightly and the engine was at 1200rpm, the differences went away. I don't see how a compression test will elaborate on variances. A leak down might show a leaky intake valve or tight valve train clearance on one but short of a huge hole in the piston, they'll suck the same at idle with 50psi of compression and 120psi of compression.

quote from the article "— a plastic engine support instead of one made of aluminum" "a grille with louvers that automatically close when less cooling air is needed, to reduce drag" really?? Lets save 3lbs by putting in a plastic motor mount and add 125lbs by putting in a 16 way power adjustable leather drivers seat.

I know. I can't stand to be around know it all wanna be drag racer clowns.

not rocket science in that the motor is 40 years old. There's no magic timing chain fixtures, hard to cut heads, no piston to wall clearance subaru stuff, VR6 style offset fixtures for blocks etc. It's old easy peasy machine work. Simple simon stuff. If they can't do an 02 motor they shouldn't be in business. Second. no one on here actually measures anything coming back from a machine shop so if the guy looks competent, does the work on time, gives you back a piece of shiny metal and a good story about all that he did then you'll talk about what a wonderful craftsman he is, oblivious to whether it's actually good work. So yes. you could probably take it to a local lawn mower repair shop and as long as it was shiny and running, you'd be happy and talk about what a deal you got although my local lawn mower shop bills at $75/hr so I don't know if there's a cost savings going there any more.

there's nothing rocket science about an 02 engine.

Tom Bush BMW USA tried to charge me $62 for a radiator hose. it was $20 including freight in the mail. The only concession from them I've ever got is that they will match getbmwparts.com which is a bmw dealer but you have to ask if they will price match another dealer. If you just ask if they will price match, they'll tell you no.

Good luck.. after seeing S4's rear timing chain's, I'm convinced that audi motors are built by watch makers.

people have been using layered wood for ramps forever. It's heavy but quite sturdy. Won't fall over and colapse on him.

funny everytime I get back from driving to alaksa, when I come into the states the border patrol guys like high five me.

two bricks of powder... car was from miami..

+1 somewhere i've got a pic of my cluster doing 100... it was raining..

One way to speed up the get my car finished process is call the insurance company and tell them, this guy took your money and has not fixed my car yet. Unless you have signed some "I'm using my own shop, I don't want your warranty" form, they have to warranty his sketch work. All that guy was doing was going down the list of customers trying to find one that would let him float his payroll. Since your job only has $600 left on the ticket, there is no incentive to work on it. It will always get pushed back because he needs paying jobs because he's floating his payroll. It becomes a dead job. Lots of work required to finish it but he doesn't have the capital to commit guys over there to finish it. Call him and demand he set a reasonable completion date. If he can't do that, begin filing fraud charges with your insurance company and your credit cards because he's never getting it done, no matter how nice you are. There is absolutely no reason a body shop can't commit to a date. If he starts telling you how impossible that will be because he's a master craftsman and he's making it "just perfect". He's jerking you off. Tell him, even Michelangelo had to stick to a schedule. Make him fix the headliner as well, there is no reason you should be up there sanding on your own car doing labor for him. That's what your paying way to much money for. Make sure you explain how you are not paying for runs, drips, overspray or dented/scratched items and will not sign off on substandard work. Might as well do it right the first time because you will be making him do it a second time on his dime. Don't let him wear you out for more money, make him finish and stick to a schedule. In the end, he'll probably try and turn that $600 left into $1200 due to "cost overruns". It's BS. Don't let him. If he scratched your strut tower bar, give him a link as to where to get a new one. Act like it's normal. If he tells you, I ain't fixing that, take it out of the final $600.

I've eyed this thing for two years. Never would spring for it. Finally did. Hf doesn't have anything like it. It won't warp panels as long as you don't hold it in the same place fOr like a minute

just incase you wanted it in black instead of $100 markup snapon red http://www.autobodysupplies.com/MBXBlasterTools&Accessories.htm

Ok at some point, we all do a little "restoration" on our cars. The evil rust bug rears it's head and we deal. The problem is usually our rust is hidden underneath undercoat or in a difficult to get at corner. Blamo. The Snap On Crug Thug. Like god came down and blessed you with a paint removing light saber. If you never seen this tool, it's like a wire wheel from hell. Unlike a normal wire wheel tool though, it doesn't shit bits of wire all over you or clog with bits of rubber undercoating. I was working in the wheel well area by the door with the front quarter removed. I cleared a 6" wide by 10" pannel down to bare steel in about 25 seconds with minimal effort. All the 1969 undercoating is now just little specs on the floor. Easily sweepable. You could do the entire underside in an afternoon. A fenderwell in 15 minutes. I hate to sound like a salesman of the thing but it really does get into all the corners and bits that a wirewheel won't. Offically my new favorite tool in my box. For undercoat removal and rust removal it owns your soul. Made it to easy to do pannel repairs as you just hit it with the crug thug, weld it, grind it smooth, and then seal. What used to take hours in proper prep getting this crap off took 10 minutes. I'm in love.