williamggruff

I have them. PM if you'd like to discuss. Grice

I have a restored tii brake booster. PM me if you're still looking. I'll be away from home until middle of next week, and can ship then.

I have a spare 245 that has rusty internals, but the case is likely fine. I don't recall whether I have the proper tools to remove the rear case from a 245, but I'll look into it. Before I do, please note that I'm in the US, so shipping might be horrendous, and I'm headed out of town in a few hours, so I won't able to start monkeying with the case until middle of next week. Grice

Where are you located?

Looks like a Getrag 235.

Email sent.

This is a common malady to which I know no obvious cure. I’m guessing the bolts/studs are pressed into the kidney grill, and they’re spinning due to corrosion between the nut and stud threads. It sounds like you need to find a way to hold the stud in place while you spin the nut, or vice versa. Neither sounds like a simple course of action.

Reinstalled and tuned DCOE 40s. 38 DGES just wasn't doing it for me. The motor (bored to 92mm, stroked with an M3 crank, clicky-clacking with a Schrick cam and a 123 jingle-jangler) loves the 40s. Things are a bit rich at idle, but it goes like stink with no hesitation or flat spot, right up to red line. Sounds much better as well. Vintage prep complete. See you all next May in Asheville.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/bmw_2002_1976

Dion bought my Schrick 304 cam.

I’m with Stephers on getting the flange milled flat. You can check the alignment of the primaries by laying a one-piece e30 M10 gasket over the flange. Make sure the stud holes in the flange and gasket align, then see how the exhaust holes in the gasket align with the primaries. Stahl headers are generally very well made, so I’d be dismayed if you find that there’s significant misalignment.