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  1. Thanks for the interest! Because it is being sold on BAT, side deals are not allowed. You can bid on it at Bring a Trailer (BAT) at the following URL:https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-bmw-2002-46/
  2. My Colorado Orange '74 BMW 2002 track car with custom-built slide throttle injection with spare fresh dry sump race motor is now up for auction on Bring a Trailer (BAT) at: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-bmw-2002-46/ There is an in-car video from Watkins Glen (2017), as well as a link to the original engine startup walk around video that I posted on the FAQ in 2016. Please post any questions or comments you have to the BAT auction. Thank you, Fred
  3. Dear FAQ members, While I have not been active on the FAQ recently, I wanted to let you all know my Colorado Orange '74 BMW 2002 track car with custom-built slide throttle injection is now for sale on Bring a Trailer (BAT). It just went live at: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-bmw-2002-46/ I posted an in-car video from Watkins Glen (2017), as well as the original engine start walk around video that I posted on the FAQ in 2016. Please let anyone you know that might be interested about the auction, and please post any questions or comments you have to the BAT. Thank you all, Fred
  4. Since the ARP thread has been revived, I wanted to share information from Byron about torque for the head studs. He said that at 90 lb-ft the head can crush a bit and bind the rocker shaft bores. I couldn't find that post, but here is one with similar info: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/179953-how-many-of-you-are-running-91mm-pistons-or-larger/?tab=comments#comment-1107151 On May 10, 2016 at 2:01 PM, Preyupy said: Be careful if you are using ARP head studs, the ARP torque value is based on the strength of the fastener (90 ft/lb torque with lubrication on a fine thread) This equates to around 180,000 psi PER STUD!!! This load WILL distort the block so you need to bore and hone the block with a torque plate! The biggest problem is it WILL DISTORT THE HEAD and you will loose some clamping force at the half way point between the studs, this turns out to be at EXACTLY the same point on the headgasket that it is thinnest between the cylinders and also right under the exhaust ports between the cylinder wall and the water jacket. At 60 ft/lb torque on the ARP fine threaded studs you are at almost 200% of the clamping force per fastener of the stock course head bolts. THIS IS MORE THAN ENOUGH!!!!
  5. How many miles on the engine? Does it see track duty? From your symptoms I'm not convinced it is timing. You know the engine is tired and the smoke from the breather, blue smoke from exhaust and lack of power say rings to me. Years ago I had a lot of smoke from the breather, then started using oil like mad. Made it home from the Glen, pulled the engine apart and all of the rings fell apart in pieces. Amazing it even ran. As many have said, at least do a compression test. That is diagnosis 101. --Fred
  6. Now that these cars are getting up in age, it is worth looking at uncommon problems that may become more common. I searched the above lists of 160 points and did not see these: --snapped rear stub axle or stripped splines (several instances reported) --cracked rear wheel flange (uncommon--circular crack at base of raised portion) --cracked rear trailing arm (see post on reinforcing them for track cars) --loose CV joint bolts cause mayhem --the cracked front subframe engine mount (driver side) is mentioned, but not in detail. If it has not cracked it will--this approaches being a factory defect. Weld-in reinforcement plates are available --worn steering box and difficulty finding parts to refurbish (many posts on this) --cracked front strut mounts (rubber) --center tie rod failure--swaged section loosens up (Just saw this on a friends car) --tii banjo bolt filter disintegrates (see recent posts) --broken tii gilmer belt --scope creep That's just a few that come to mind. --Fred
  7. I just went through this. A few years ago I had a valve to piston clearance problem (valve pockets were not deep enough) and the band-aid solution was a .120" (3.05mm) Cometic MLS. It was tight but the chain went on, the head had been shaved (don't have the measurement now), and all works fine. Fast forward to another engine I had built for me and it turned out there was a piston-head clearance problem. I thought "great, I'll just slap another .120 gasket in there and be on my way." Well, that was not the case. The timing chain (new, as were both sprockets) was too short by a lot and some research suggested somehow a link was hiding down in the front cover (i.e., turn the engine over both ways and maybe it will free up) as Toby mentioned above. That didn't work. I pulled the front cover, and somehow thought I could modify the tension rail to create more clearance. Well, I finally got the chain to fit, only to realize the rail now interfered with the front cover--it just was not going to work even with tension piston removed (I slotted the bottom of the rail to move it in, and also tried grinding off some rubber). Finally I realized the engine builder probably used a full height head. The engine was never designed to use a much thicker head gasket with a full height head. Now a winter project is to pull the pistons and get them shaved. Compression was 13.8:1, so it is fine with me to cut the pistons--want it more like 12.5:1 for this engine, which will run a Schrick 336 cam. --Fred
  8. The first question is do you have noticeable bump steer? My track car is pretty low (front subframe about 4" off the ground) and it felt darty in turns. Yes, there are many suspension components that can cause this, all mine are in good shape. I used the 28mm high offset spacers from Lee and it made a big improvement in the dartyness. Note that you need at least 15" wheels for this, and I still had to clearance the control arm ends a bit. Now to camber--how much do you need? For the track car I use about 3 degrees negative in front. For street car it depends on how you drive. Too much and you will wear the inside of the tires. You can't get much from a fixed camber plate (3/4 to 1 degree?), but combined with offset roll spacers you get more. As I recall Lee's spacers (16mm offset) gave me an additional 1 degree of camber, so with my adjustable camber plates I could go as far as 4 degrees negative if I wanted to. YMMV--Fred
  9. I like those 11mm brass nuts for the intake side, got some from Ireland Engineering several years ago. For exhaust I use a 10mm head locking jet nut. I get them from Pegasus, called MJET. For the big Stahl header I had to grind the flange off a few jet nuts due to interference with the primary tube weld. I had installed the nut without doing this, and a few days later noticed an exhaust stud had broken all on its own, just sitting there. This was because the flange of the nut was overlapping the weld, causing uneven loading. Also need to use two shortened studs for this header. --Fred
  10. Ken, Nice job on the reinforcements! I found that doing the Group 2 plate before doing the boxing reduces the likelihood that the trailing arms will pull in from the boxing. If I had a welding table to hold everything in place perhaps that would not be an issue. What gauge metal did you use? Nick--thanks for the cross link to my post! --Fred
  11. The recent thread from Nick on trailing arms reminded me that I had not followed up with my fix for the broken arm. I got a used arm from a FAQ member (many thanks to Jeff Caplan) and reinforced both arms with the Group 2 reinforcements (thanks Götesson!). I used 10 gauge steel, which is likely thicker than I needed--certainly very beefy. In addition to reinforcing the trailing arms, I reinforced the trailing arm mounts on the subframe, as I figure that will be the next thing to go. I got some ideas from old E30 Group A photos, and boxed the inner mount. The outer mount is more difficult due to clearance issues--I used a flying buttress approach for the outers. For bushings I installed the AKG trailing arm bushings, durometer 75D. Finally I put it all back together in my living room so that I could check for binding and do a preliminary alignment. I set it for zero toe when the swing arm is parallel to the ground. This way, it will toe in under bump or droop, but never toe out. Here's some pics--thanks to all for the help along the way. --Fred
  12. I have had issues with a race spinning in the hub, as I recall it was the inner. It is not a problem of bearing race dimension, it is that somehow the hub has become worn and lost the tolerance for an interference fit, which keeps the race from spinning. Not sure why this happens, but it can. This is on a track car with R-compound, 205 and 225 width, which put a lot more load on the bearings than the old 165 street tires our cars came with From my research on this issue, a fix is to dimple or knurl the inside of the hub, where the bearing race sits. Some say it works great, other say it does not last. This is done for old hubs for which replacements are hard to come by. It may also be possible to bore out the hub and press in a sleeve--not sure on this. For a 2002 hub, likely not worth the expense. Another thing you can do is use a loctite compound when installing the race--it is green for shoring up interference fit issues, not the normal blue or red thread locker. --Fred Edit: Here's a description of loctite green: LOCTITE® 680 Retaining Compound is a high strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm).
  13. My concern is that because you have a boxed trailing arm, there could be rust in other areas on the inside the trailing arm that you can't yet see. If the car is tracked or otherwise put under heavy load I'd recommend getting a new one ($$$ and not very available right now), or a used unboxed one you could inspect and then box. If you keep this one, I would suggest your third option--cut out a single patch area. I would cut a fairly large patch, so that you could sand blast as much of the inside of the arm as you can get to and inspect it a bit with a mirror and flashlight for additional weak areas. If good, then treat the inside with a rust converter (such as phosphoric acid), then coat the weld area with a weld-through primer such as Bloxide. After the patch is welded in, Pour POR-15 (or your favorite rust treating paint) inside the trailing arm, tape it off and slosh it around to coat the inside. --Fred
  14. Einspritz - the information you have provided in the above posts is most helpful. Thank you for going into the detail you have. I have been inside most of my 2002's components and build my own track engines, though have only adjusted but never opened a steering box. I need to do this, as when holding the pitman arm steady, the steering box on my track car has more play than I would like, making the car feel unsteady in the 120-130 mph range on some tracks (but not others!). This is with solid u-joints in the steering column instead of the rag joint. I considered going to a steering rack, though that is a lot of work and I have not done the research to see if it makes sense. It could be useful if I eventually lower the engine and move it back. Obviously there is a lot that contributes to stability, including making sure all front and rear suspension components (including springs, shocks, upper strut mounts) are up to snuff as said above, and of course aerodynamics, which I have not modified yet save the air dam. I have a few questions for you and the group: 1. Do worm gear steering boxes have inherently more play than rack and pinion? 2. Would you consider rebuilding steering boxes to your specifications as listed above for people on the FAQ? 3. Or, would you consider providing the necessary hard parts (or sources) and specs so those interested could take the job on themselves? I am happy to buy the tools and learn how to do it myself. Many thanks, Fred
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