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FB73tii

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  1. Thanks for the interest! Because it is being sold on BAT, side deals are not allowed. You can bid on it at Bring a Trailer (BAT) at the following URL:https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-bmw-2002-46/
  2. Per request--short video of first start and car walk-around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqR1a-MkW7o --Fred
  3. Correct, that is the VAC clutch kit. Waited for the annual xmas sale to get 10% off. Kris--long trip from Toronto. Are you planning to come to the Glen this year? If so, drop me a note and perhaps we can coordinate. I am planning to be up there several times this year. Ian, look forward to seeing you at GVC! --Fred
  4. Wanted to provide an update on this long-term project. Got the slide throttle installed on my 2.0 liter engine last Fall, spent several days at VIR tuning the fuel mixture based on WBO2 data. I have set up the Haltech with 31 RPM bins and 31 load (TPS) bins, so nearly 1,000 data cells. I use an excel spreadsheet to average the WBO2 and other engine data by Alpha-N bin, then adjust fuel accordingly to meet my desired lambda. Now have it running well. Was at Watkins Glen a few weeks ago, ran very strong. While it revs happily to 8000 rpm, shifting at 7200-7500 RPM works well. I had hoped to post dyno data, but don't have that yet. This engine (2.0 liter, 11.2 CR, 316 Schrick, JBR aluminum flywheel, 100 octane gas) dynoed at 180 HP at the rear wheels with 45 DCOE Webers before I put the slide on. I do not expect that peak HP will be more with the slide, but with the long air horns the theory is that is will make better torque lower down. A lot of people have remarked on how fast I pulled them coming out of the corners. The 4:45 diff likely helps.... The slide throttle is very responsive and also fairly linear. I am pleased that it is quite driveable at part throttle. I set it up using a pull cable and the stock pedal box throttle arm. Learned about cable stretch when my TPS started going to only 80% last year! Now that I have proof-of-concept, I plan to install the engine the slide throttle was built for later this year. That engine is the one I described several years ago in earlier posts--2.2 liter, dry sump, multi-plate clutch, 13.8 CR, 336 Schrick, 112 or 114 octane gas. That engine also has a cam sensor, so I can run fuel and spark fully sequential. Right now I am running wasted spark and semi-sequential fuel. Some people may wonder why I painted the engine green. It stands for the amount of money I put into the 2.0 liter engine, as I had to build it a second time after valve-to-piston contact on the first engine (see other posts for that). I'll be back at the Glen in early June, happy to give any '02 enthusiasts a ride. Thanks to everyone for making this a great forum! --Fred
  5. Agree a track motor needing 100 octane. At 11.2:1 and a 301 cam it is similar to my track-only 2 liter engine (11.2 CR and 316 cam), which I run on 100 octane. I mix 110 or 112 leaded ($8.50/gallon at the track) with 93 pump gas to hit my octane number. 38 degrees advance is higher than I've heard used--I am running at 32 degrees until I get it on the dyno for proper tuning. Have you seen the car? If it has the raised floor header installed, it sounds more like a track car and may not have a front passenger seat. If it does, the passenger may get a hot foot. I know because I did a raised floor on my car which I use for HPDE instruction. It took me quite a bit of work to fabricate a tunnel under the passenger seat and create space for a good-sized muffler. I then added an insulated cover on top of all this to make it not uncomfortable for my passengers. So far it works well, but a big effort to make it all work in a passenger car. Edit: Agree with posters above, will not have any bottom end, most likely power starts around 4500 rpm. My power band is roughly 5,000-7,500 RPM. Would not want to drive on street. Also agree this would be a fairly mild track motor. --Fred
  6. 3 hours ago, Crumbod said: Does anyone have this information. Ive been searching the site but can't find it to save my life. Here's how I did it -- cut and paste 2002 and tii dust caps: 1 hour ago, John_in_VA said: We run into this same problem running E38 BMW/BBS wheels with center caps on E28s. The solution is the tapered E34 cap,31206777789 (supersedes: 31211130124 & 31211124435). Cheap from the dealer - try one Cool, was not aware of this solution. So much for cutting and pasting! --Fred
  7. +2 on the drill method. I strapped a used unknown 5-speed to small work bench, put the input shaft into the chuck of my 1/2" drill, spun it up and shifted gears by moving the input shaft selector back and forth by hand. Did not mount the shift platform. The box was smooth on the test stand, and fortunately was smooth once in the car. Sorry I did not make a video of me doing it unassisted, Ken, but I did take a picture! TobyB Posted Monday at 09:47 PM ...as Byron laid out, is that it's hard to do and the parts are quite expensive. Getting the case apart takes some pretty fancy tools, and getting the shifting linkage to go back in is also not trivial. A dedicated DIYer can do it- but it's not easy, and shops know very well how hard it is to get BMW gearboxes back together properly..... If I could hijack this thread slightly, I am interested in learning how to rebuild a 5-speed (320i OD) myself. The transmission is the only component of my car I have not been inside. I've got two bad ones sitting around--one with bad synchros, the other won't go into certain gears and binds in others. I have been putting off learning how to do this, but as luck would have it, I am now learning how to rebuild an automatic transmission (the 4L60E out of my tow vehicle). I am installing upgraded parts to correct known issues and handle the power of my GM 383 stroker. Now that I have spent a few months on this, I find it is not all that hard, just requires the care and knowledge of any type of performance built. So far made my own tools, welded up a holding jig, and only had to buy a pair of snap ring pliers. My sense is that the BMW transmission may be a bit more difficult, in terms of having to correct tools and presses to disassemble and assemble. That said, if those who have done it before (Ken, Byron, Toby, others) could point me in the right direction such as manuals, parts sources, and special tools needed, I would be most appreciative. I think I found and downloaded a 320I OD factory manual some years ago, will have to look for that. The other way I could go is to adapt a rocket box or something (Toby, you have written about this before) for the track car, but I'd like to take on the BMW 5-speeds "for fun" Thanks, Fred
  8. Mike--you must have one of those rare M10 engines built by Smokey Yunick. This can of course be verified by checking the cam for different lobes for different cylinders (thanks to Toby for that). Checking the volume of each combustion chamber is a good first step--though I doubt someone who mixed pistons would have taken the time to reduce the compression on two cylinders by grinding out head material. To have a smooth running engine you really want the CR, air flow, and balance to even across all cylinders. If the bores are good perhaps just a re-hone and stick with 2nd oversize. I'd suggest 9.5 CR for the pistons. If new pistons are too costly, or take too much time, used pistons are a possibility. As long as they are all the same make and CR you should be able to put together a matched set. I have a few 9.5's at home in excellent condition, but it's not a full set. Let me know if interested and I'll check the size, make and weight. --Fred
  9. A ground up build is a very big job, but fun and educational if you are so inclined. As a bonus, you'll end up with a lot of new tools if you don''t have them already (welding setup, air compressor, air tools, and a broad assortment of other items). It depends on your skill level and desire for fit and finish. I would figure at least a few thousand hours, and that's without building an engine. As far as wiring harnesses, I built a new one for my '74 track car last year. I used all mil-spec wire and was able to eliminate almost every push-on connector. I wanted screw terminals as vibration is an issue for my application. A good terminal crimper is $100 or more, and different crimpers are needed for different types of electrical connectors. It was not cheap, but now I have the tools and knowledge--planning to do a new wiring harness for my '69 perhaps next winter. I got the inspiration for my harness for the one my builder made for my electronic injection slide throttle. He builds wiring harness for professional motorsports applications. Here's a great resource to give you an idea of how far you can go: Professional Mil-Spec Motorsport ECU Wiring Harness Construction https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html Best of luck on the journey--Fred
  10. Perhaps they pressure bled the upside down caliper before installing it by twisting the flexible lines to hold the caliper right-side up while bleeding. And after that they never changed brake fluid! --Fred
  11. Cool vid! Busy track, caught back marker soon, needs image stabilization. Their website lists some nice ring and pinion ratios. Track season coming up soon
  12. Yes, this is for the Schrick 316 cam engine after I rebuilt it with all new parts. I now have the slide throttle installed with electronic fuel injection (Haltech Platinum Sport 1000) and it works great. Compression is about 11.2:1, displacement 2.0 liters, runs on 100 octane race gas. All hours are track hours. I did a frequency analysis of throttle position and I am WOT or off throttle almost all the time. Surprised I do not have more part throttle. I polished the KM rocker pads before installing per John Forte recommendations, and used moly paste on the cam lobes as well as high ZDP oil to break in the cam. Power band starts around 4300 RPM, peak torque is roughly 5500 rpm and I shift at up to 7500 RPM. Rear wheel HP about 180. Pulls all the way to 8000 RPM on the track if I want it to, but no reason for unnecessary wear. --Best, Fred
  13. Interesting option, did not know about those. Found them on a Swedish site at 1065 SEK/each, which if my math is right is just over $900 for a set of eight. So far I am happy with my KM Cams rockers, about 25 hours on them to date. Cat Cams CAT021 steel billet M10 rocker arms http://dli-teknik.se/index.php?section=products&subsection=3&cat=77&s1cat=886&s2cat=2939&showprod=15209&lang=en
  14. I think you are referring to the post from Robert Karlsson of Sweden. Last post I saw from him on this was in December 2013. Not sure if they went to market. Here's the link:
  15. Thanks for posting this, I have been looking for a short dual-circuit master cylinder for direct pedal box mount for quite some time for my '69 track car. I just don't like having a single circuit. Based on your info above I did some searching--the only ones I found for the '78 colt have top outlets. Is this what you ended up with? The part numbers I found for the 7/8" bore (22.2mm) are: RAYBESTOS MC39081 ProStop M51801 Cardone 11-1801 Most of the cylinders listed are 13/16" bore (0.8125"), or don't list the size. The only issue with proportioning valves is that the rear brakes need to be "oversized" to allow any useful adjustment. I did some calculations on my 2002tii and found that the rear only does 15% of the braking. Makes sense since weight is on front under deceleration, and manufacturers don't want a street car to swap ends in a panic stop. Now with Wilwoods all the way around and Tilton overhung pedal box with balance bar in the '74, I can dial in up to roughly 30% brake at the rear. I only use this much in the wet (less weight transfer forward, rear can do more braking), that much is very twitchy under hard braking in the dry. Thanks again--Fred
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