oldguy

I'll give you a good 2L crank for $300+ actual freight that has been cleaned, mic'd and micropolished. known good standard crank ready to install.

oh I have no doubt you shop can do one. That cylinder head above has no coolant passages in it... I would recommend getting an engine parts book, picking your valve, spring, retainer and bucket/rocker. Then building the head around it in cad. Cams can be CNC ground. Heads cut from billet. Design your seat pressure and your opening pressure for your flow/lift of your new design. if I was doing it. This is how I'd start. You're going to need a flow bench for a stock head, a scan of that head. Import them into a FEA flow analysis program. Compare real results to your virtual numbers for a baseline. Take your new design, and then flow it virtually determining what you're hoping to improve on. Understand that the main advantage of a DOHC head is flow, 16v's, better squish for flame propagation, and better lobe profiles. Most DOHC can run a more aggressive opening lobe profile allowing the valve to open faster and with less resistance. Do understand that due to the long stroke of the m10, high revs such as 8500-9000 rpm create exponential loads on the connecting rods. It can be done. just not for long. a DOHC roller rocker m10 with an 8000rpm redline would be a nice machine and would be "streetable" given proper cam overlap profile. There is alot of engineering here before we make our first chip.

Oh that's just one of many things that are not close on it...

I'm still a believer in the ford mustang head.. it will work someday

Your options for piano tops are NOS Mahle from W&N or QSC china pistons. That's for stock pistons with expansion bands. I've mic'd a set of QSC and they were spec but I haven't run them yet. Not sure anyone has. If Mahle puts the piano tops back into production, then happiness will reign. When considering forged, there are two materials. 2618 or 4032. Many "sportman" or Cost conscious pistons are 4032. It's a higher silicon alloy and is slightly cheaper. It is strong and light but is also more fragile of the two. Because of the higher silicon in it, you can run a tighter clearance with 4032 than 2618. 2618 pistons are where strength and lightness are ultimate goals. It runs a larger clearance and is where the "forged pistons have piston slap" quote comes from. You run these bores a little looser and they let you know when you start the car. When the engine is cold, it's obvious that you've got 2618 forged pistons because you can hear them clear as day. I don't recommend 2618 pistons in a street car. They're for race only. 4032 piston though have seen plenty of use in warmed over street cars and provide an excellent benefit for you. I'm not a fan of .25mm or 0.010" overbores. That's just not enough material to be removed for a true up and down hole. You've got to imagine that if the hole is 0.010" bigger that's only 0.005" per side. Usually those are done with hones and require no boring as it's almost impossible to center up and cut 0.008" on a hole leaving you 2 thou for the final hone. Go .5mm over or 0.020"

schrick 316 and 336 cams are hollow and internally oiled. Those heads have oil restrictors placed in them to do this. The upper camshaft oiling system aka spreader bar is removed and is different. On top of this 336/316/ and IIRC bmw 300 motorsport factory cams have larger journals bored into the head. Schrick 304 cams require a notch to be cut into the second journal for lobe clearance. All schrick 316/336 cams are large journals.

someone should do one with a GTIR drivetrain... 4wd turbo dohc 2L...

roadfly.... hehehehe actually this site grew from dissatisfaction and censorship of roadly... Launched when everyone was in SC on 02-02-02. Steve has been leading the charge for years now...

-6an braided line... it's worth the extra $50.

If it were me... I'd give up on getting it out.. chuck it up in the mill.. Drive a 5/16" end mill into the hole and helicoil it. To drill it, you're gonna have to grind it flat and center punch it. At that point I'd drill out from the center with larger and larger left hand drills but you're gonna be a while

not to knock your idea but 5x120 doesn't really get you many wheels in 15" and under. 5x114.3 would but it wouldn't be bmw factory wheels.

Always thought the SR would be nice in a 02... turbo's on the wrong side and will likely interfere with brake booster/ steering box assemblies. Someone in fb 02 land put a S13 subframe on the 02 chassis to streamline the process.

Damn... He was always a nice guy, always would share information with me and seemed so happy with Robin...

I always wondered how much S13 240sx stuff would cross over....

Some like copper coat.. I prefer this on my MLS gaskets https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-high-tack-spray-a-gasket-sealant/ MLS gaskets need smooth surfaces to seal. If your not going to surface them, take some 1000+ grit sand paper and wrap a machinist straight edge. Won't take hardly anything off, will knock off any lumps that will prevent mls from sealing. I wouldn't run sprays on a new composite / victor rienz gasket.

He used the customers card to order 2 of everything. Customer states he was double billed to visa. Visa hits ireland for the difference. Shows up ireland eng on customers bill. Customer knows what was ordered and how much it was roughly just by going to the website.

spam... those are referral links...

Does anyone have a "rally suspension setup" that they would recommend? Currently the car as Bilstein sports with 350lb/in springs and coil overs on it with GC camber plates. I need a suspension setup for gravel road / mud / potholes. I was thinking of running 13x6 wheels but I'm having a hard time finding tires. I can find a lot of UTV tires that fit but not sure if they would handle the load.

If I ran a cam position sensor on the car, you could machine the back of the cam with a slot drive and certainly machine a hole in the back of the dist cover. If you have access to machinery that can do that, you can easily make a cam position hub off the 4 bolts holding the cam gear to the cam and put one into the upper valve cover. Utilizing a cam position sensor in the distributor is a no no. To much backlash. Someone also makes a plug for the dist housing hole to seal it. If you need a cam position sensor, I imagine you're going coil on plug ignition.

Well, one goes to your oil pressure sender or idiot light sender. Other if for lubrication of the distributor gear/camshalf gear interface. I'm not sure you're fixing a problem that exists.

you won't get 11.9:1 to run on pump gas. That setup is designed for at least 105. Raised floor headers would be a problem as well.. you can also tell because engine is running 38 degrees of advance. That thing will sound like a raped ape but not on street gas.

I kinda feel bad in a way because I've sold him parts and stuff before...