oldguy

Nitriding after grinding.. not necessary.. these engines die from age not wear... If you were racing the motor or planning to drive 250k miles on it. Then I would consider it... total seal rings. Here's the issue. Total seal rings seal on cylinders that have been properly prepared according to total seals specifications. Then out of no where, you get one cylinder that just doesn't seal. I'm not talking like 1 out of every motor but say my trouble rate with total seals is about 1 in 10 motors where a cylinder just doesn't like them. Pull the head, hit the cylinder with a ball/deglazing hone, re-install and it fires right up. No idea why. Total seal rings don't make more power than regular rings. They don't fix a problem that needs fixing. They help internet racers talk about how their compression gauge reading is higher than everyone else. If your machine shop doesn't get into specified cylinder wall grits and plateau honing, don't get them. You'd be surprised how many "engine builders" do heads, then sub all the block machine work out to the local guy.

That coating was probably some type of DLC/PVD type coating. Carbon raptor, diamond coatings etc are all names for similar items. The advantage of a moldstar seat vs a steel alloy seat is heat transfer. The valve contacts the seat at a "margin". That's the 45 degree angle in the middle of a 3 angle valve job. The width of that "margin" can be .010" all the way out to .045" or more. The smaller the margin, the better the flow (in theory). The smaller the margin, the less space for heat to be transferred out of the face of the valve (fact). Heat transfer is based on two items. Contact surface area (margin width), and spring pressure. So with a moldstar seat you can run narrower contact areas because you transfer more heat out of the head of the valve. Since this sounds like a schnitzer 250hp rally motor setup, I think you'd be fine with nice steel alloy seats front and back. Nothing to trick going on there. Now if you were considering a 600HP turbo 10k rpm twin cam build, then I would reconsider. Beryllium Copper(BeCu) and You. BeCu dust and vapors are lung carcinogens. If you work with the material under coolant when machining, you're good if you have good common sense. Since you're not casting it either, then your safe. Unless you start grinding on your ports (valve guides or seats) and breathing in the dust, your risk for exposure is nil. Moldstar and Trojan are not BeCu and do not have these issues. BeCu is stronger than either but only marginally. True BeCu is utilized in a number of industries but is difficult to manufacture in the US due to health concerns. Items such as "no spark" tools, or bearing surfaces in mission critical parts are some of the uses for it. Ping used to make an ultra forgiving set of golf irons out of cast BeCu. I still want a set just for grins.

The casting of the heads, usually A356 material, usually requires no heat treat post "as cast". In addition, the type of heat treatments utilized in A356 would only serve to lower strength and reduce elongation, in favor of dimensional stability. Since the head was already working, we only increase the chances of over aging it. Not really fixing anything that's broken. Would I want to run that head on a million dollar race car in the 24 hours of lemans? Nope. Would I run it in a vintage car that's going to see sparse weekend races. Totally.

I've used moldstar in heads and it has worked well, I've also utilized Trojan as well. Both were great in titanium valved engines that required extensive cooling of the valve face due to their race nature. If this was a race engine that was turbocharged and running titanium valves, I would recommend trojan or moldstar. If this is a NA motor with stainless valves than I believe many steel alloy seats would work fine without stepping upto a more expensive seat material. That said, I don't know what spring pressure you plan on running, how wide your margin is, and what fuel/induction this motor is planning on running. manganees bronze guides might be preferred in your application to silicon bronze. BeCu can also be utilized for guides with amazing results as well. Just remember the dust is pure carcinogen. Keep your work wet, and check local laws regarding disposal of coolant. May fall under hazmat guidelines.

This came across my Facebook this morning in the world of flat black 2002's http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OUTLAW-02-SEIDENMATT-SCHWARZ-GOTTA-SEE-ROUNDIE-/140715775310?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20c350554e#ht_21404wt_958 Now my personal idea for my car is to go with semi gloss white and dayglo orange stripes/trim.. Don't steal my awesome idea.

Cliffs: So you bought a set of mint panels. Seller noticed there was a tear and promptly returned your money.

http://wheel-whores.com/ go here and spend all your money.. crazy awesome wheels come up on here all the time...

That's exactly what I was talking about!!! So Hawt!!

Curious how a speedster windshield and a roll bar would look. The lotus super 7 of bmw 2002's I guess...

they also made a wide pig cheek flare with rounded arches and a slightly smaller not as wide flare...

they also made a wide pig cheek flare with rounded arches and a slightly smaller not as wide flare...

Weber 40s or 45s?

you can always brake by downshifting to get it to the garage... do it at like 4am... when there's no traffic out...

Vw rabbit

Fixable... Yes. Finding an insurance company that understands that a BMW 2002 targa isn't a BMW 2002.. Whole other issue.. I predict their first offer to be to total it at $4k. Gonna have a fight on your hands

The feel is more important than most anything mentioned. You can actually torque them to 75 or more when compressing different types of head gaskets but you'll start to see the bosses in the head "flex" inward and the bracing from the edge of the cylinder head to the boss start to neck. Grey hair. A Haynes manual said so? Really.......

I ran a 75 shot with 10 degrees of retard. Ignore the haters... Eat life! I've got an old dynotune square nitrous air fuel safety switch if your interested. fits right in one of the heater vent controls on the dash

For a question this common, you should look through the older posts for additional information. Had you done so, you might have noticed that recommended cylinder head gasket replacement procedure has changed. There is nothing wrong with the procedure you are attempting to implement, but conventional wisdom suggests there is a better process. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,339321/ If you wish to retorque your headbolts, you could try backing off each bolt and then re-tightening each one to the final torque setting. Needless to say, you should follow the original crisscross tightening order provided by the engine manufacturer, or the gasket manufacturer. (they should be the same and that information should be available at the link.) Good luck. If he was using updated cylinder head bolts and a BMW factory gasket that whole mess would be applicable. It's really making a mountain out of a mole hill. These motors are dead pan simple. Torque it and go. This whole 15 min wait thing between torques.. Sure

Been there, done that over 8years ago.. Used the high speed timing retard on my Mallory box to take timing out when it was engaged. Do put a WOT switch on it

Different head gasket manufacturers may or may not require a retorque It's not hard to do one but if it helps you sleep at night, doit

Fixed that for you. If anyone believes BMW is building this carbon mono chassis because they want to make sure they still remember how to build a race car... Your sadly mistaken. These are usually a private/factory partnership where the factory contributes branding, advertising, cash and factory parts.[/b]

///Marketing That's all ///M Stands for any more...

Use a craftsman stud extractor. I utilize loctite green seal retainer.

I'll trade you my regular one for your sport one... I've got strong arms

make the hole 90mm